Aix en Provence Travel Guide
Aix en Provence With its historical façades, paved squares, meandering streets and thermal springs, Aix-en-Provence simply overflows with charm.
Known as is the city of a thousand fountains, it’s with blessed backdrop of breathtaking mountains and countryside, and is home to some fantastic gastronomy.
Thanks to its compact centre, this is a city that’s easily explored on foot. Head first to the main thoroughfare, Cours Mirabeau, a street lined with cafés, restaurants and elegant mansions, and shaded by rows of centuries-old plane trees. Sit down awhile at a terrace and watch life go by over a coffee.
Three of the city’s more notable fountains are located on Cours Mirabeau. There’s a 19th-century work depicting King René holding the Muscat grapes he introduced to Provence in the 15th century; a natural hot spring covered in moss, dating back to Roman times; and the 1860 La Rotonde, beneath three giant statues representing art, justice and agriculture. But the most spectacular fountain of all is the 17th-century Fontaine des Quatre Dauphins (Fountain of the Four Dolphins) in the Quartier Mazarin.
People have been flocking to Aix since Roman times to benefit from the restorative properties of its thermal waters. Past visitors have included such luminaries as Winston Churchill and Pablo Picasso.
Today, the main draw for spa lovers is Thermes Sextius, in the heart of the old town, a modern bathing complex offering various therapies. In terms of art, Aix is inextricably linked with Paul Cézanne, the 19th-century post-impressionist painter who was born and schooled here. Throughout his life he was inspired by the nearby Sainte-Victoire mountains, which feature in many of this works. Today, you can pay homage by visiting his studio on the town’s northern outskirts.
Aix is also a centre for the arts. Numerous festivals take place year-round, the two most famous being Musique dans la Rue, and Festival d’Aix-en-Provence.
Compact, well-preserved, and bathed in sunshine for much of the year, Aix makes an ideal base for exploring the delights of Provence.
Artistic Aix has come a long way from its Roman roots. Aix (Aquae Sextiae) was founded in 122BC by the Roman consul Sextius Calvinus. In 102BC it was the scene of the Battle of Aquae Sextiae when the Romans defeated the Cimbri and Teutones.
In the fourth century AD Aix became Narbonensis Secunda, but successive invasions and attacks by the Visigoths, Lombards and Saracens wrecked the city.
Aix didn’t reach its golden age until after the 12th century. In 1182, Aix became home to the Counts of Provence. The town developed around three main sites, the Palace of the Counts, the Saint-Sauveur Cathedral and several districts of artisans and merchants.
From this period, the town has preserved its outer wall, which begins at the old Bourg Saint Sauveur. In 1409, Louis II of Anjou established the university.
Under the reign of his son René (1409-1480), Aix became a centre for artistry. A year after René’s death, Provence was annexed by the Kingdom of France, though for two centuries the town refused to accept the monarchy’s centralist policies.
In 1501 Louis XII established a parliament here, which existed until 1789.
It was not until the reign of Louis XIV that this ‘rebellious’ town became a ‘court city’, organised around judiciary and religious power. Revitalized by social and urban development, Aix changed and expanded.
From 1646 onwards, aristocrats, advisers, magistrates and notables left their homes in the medieval town to settle in the new Mazarin quarter.
In 1650, the Parliament opened a street for horse-driven carts in place of the crumbled ramparts, which in the 19th century became the Cours Mirabeau. The richly adorned facades and gates of the mansions were a measure of the successes enjoyed by their owners.
Since the mid-20th century, Aix has experienced an unprecedented demographic and economic boost, helped by the rejuvenation of the historic centre and a thriving cultural scene.
Artist Paul Cézanne (1839-1906) was born and died in Aix.
The Festival d’Aix was first held in 1948.
The city’s main library is housed in a former match factory.
- Weather in Aix en Provence
Thanks to its position in the south of France, Aix en Provence enjoys a warm climate with an average of 300 days of sunshine a year. January’s temperatures are typically around 5°C (41°F), while July temperatures average around 22°C (72°F).
While it is partially protected from the Mistral, Aix does occasionally suffer from cold gusty conditions. Rainfall tends to be highest in October. In the mayhem of mid-summer, try and bag a hotel room as early as possible as thousands of holidaymakers arrive from the north of the country looking for some sunshine.
Getting around Aix en Provence
Aix has a good bus network serving the city centre and suburbs
Telephone:
+33 9 7080 9013
Website:
www.aixenbus.com
You can buy single or two-journey tickets on board the bus. Alternatively, you can buy a 10-journey pass or load a pass with anything from five to 99 journeys; these are available from the tourist office or authorised sellers throughout the city.
Taxis are plentiful in Aix, with several taxi ranks in the city. Otherwise, both reputable companies.
Taxi Radio Aixois
Telephone: +33 4 4227 7111
Taxi Mirabeau
Telephone: +33 4 4221 6161
Parking is always a problem in Aix-en-Provence, as many of the streets are narrow and the traffic is heavy. Kerb-side parking in and around town is regulated by meter, and uniformed contractuels (traffic wardens) dispense PVs (fines) to motorists who overstay their slot. Parking garages (signalled by a large P sign) are usually the best bet, but they can be expensive.
An alternative is to leave your car at one of the two ‘Parcs Relais’ outside the city centre and hop on a bus to Aix from there (journey time – about 10 minutes).
Website:
www.aixenbus.com for more information and a map.
You can hire bikes from several outlets, including
Aix’prit Vélo
Address:
3 Bd Aristide Briand, 13100 Aix-en-Provence.
telephone:
+33 4 4221 2405
Website:
www.aixpritvelo.com
Cycloplanet
hires out electric bikes.
Address:
33 avenue St Victoire.
Telephone:
+33 4 4263 2471
Website:
www.cycloplanet.com
Find your own piece of paradise when you rent a car in Aix en Provence with Travoley. The small city north of Marseille is full of treasures waiting to be discovered – there are charming gardens and grand squares, along with unique attractions and close links to other exciting destinations in the surrounding area. From the interesting architecture of Place Verdun in the heart of the city’s Old Town, to the war memorial museum at Camp des Milles, there’s plenty of history and culture here to keep you entertained.
In order to hire a car, drivers must be at least 21 years old, depending on company policy. All drivers without an EU licence must carry an International Driving Permit.
Our simple booking system makes it easy to reserve online before you go, offering flexible short- and long-term rental, all at great prices with no hidden charges, so when you arrive all that’s left is to discover the best of this exciting city.
In partnership with Get Your Guide
Book popular activities in Aix En Provence
Things to see in Aix en Provence
Attractions
Every day you can find a market in central Aix. The largest food market is held in Place des Prêcheurs on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings. Local producers pitch up in Place Richelme near Place d’Hotel de Ville, which is where you’ll find flower stalls on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, as well as bric-a-brac in Place Verdun.
Address: 1 Rue Lapierre, 13100 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone: +33 4 42 50 39 74
Opening times: Generally 08:00-20:00.
Website: www.carrefour.fr
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
- Fondation Vasarely (Vasarely Foundation)
A striking structure located just outside Aix in the Jas de Bouffan, the Vasarely Foundation was founded by Victor Vasarely in 1976 to promote the integration of art in architecture. It covers the evolution of the work of the artist, who initially used only black and white before becoming more colourful in the 1960s.
Address: 1 Av. Marcel Pagnol, 13090 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone: +33 4 42 20 01 09
Opening times: Wed-Sun 10:00-18:00.
Website: www.fondationvasarely.org
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
The Hotel de Ville is a striking 17th-century building with classical and Italian-style decorations. It has a beautiful wrought-iron entrance and is richly decorated with woodwork and tapestries. It also has a 16th-century clock tower. The hotel overlooks a pretty square, which is home to an 18th-century corn exchange (Halle des Grains).
Address:
13860 Peyrolles-en-Provence, Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 4 42 91 90 00
Opening times: Mon-Fri 08:00-19:00.
Website:
www.aixenprovence.fr
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
- Le Musée Granet (Granet Museum)
One of the region’s best museums features works by French painters from the 16th and 17th centuries, as well as Dutch, Flemish and Italian artists. The museum was expanded with the restoration of the Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs, 200 metre/yards away. It holds some 300 artworks from artists including Renoir, Monet, Van Gogh, Degas and Picasso.
Address:
Place Saint-Jean de Malte, Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 4 42 52 88 32
Opening times: Daily 10:00-1800.
Website:
www.museegranet-aixenprovence.fr
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
The Cathédrale St-Sauveur was built between the 5th century and the 15th centuries and is renowned for its interesting combination of architectural styles including Romanesque, baroque and Gothic. Highlights of the building include a double nave, a portal with elaborately carved doors and a baptistery surrounded by a circle of marble columns.
Address:
34 Pl. des Martyrs de la Resistance, 13100 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 4 42 23 45 65
Opening times: Daily 08:00-19:00.
Website:
www.paroisses-aixarles.fr
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: Yes
- Pavillon de Vendôme (Vendome Pavilion)
Surrounded by an elaborate French garden, the Pavillon de Vendôme gives visitors the opportunity to see a typical Aix mansion as it would have looked in the 18th century. Well-preserved furniture, paintings and artefacts from the 17th and 18th centuries give a glimpse into the lives of the local aristocracy of the time.
Address:
13 Rue de la Molle, 13100 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 4 42 91 88 75
Opening times: Wed-Sun 10:00-18:00.
Website:
www.aixenprovence.fr
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
- Hôtel de Caumont Centre d’Art
The 18th-century Hôtel de Caumont, in the heart of the Mazarin quarter, is one of the city’s most beautiful mansions. Take a tour to admire the landscaped gardens and ornate salons. It also hosts exhibitions dedicated to the great masters of art from the 14th to the 19th centuries, as well as concerts.
Address:
3 Rue Joseph Cabassol, Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 4 42 20 70 01
Opening times: Daily 10:00-19:00.
Website:
www.caumont-centredart.com
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
Construite en 1666 par l’architecte Jacques Fossé, la fontaine dite “moussue” est l’une des trois fontaines du cours Mirabeau. Elle devait être ornée d’un. The water font Fontaine Moussue, also called the local water font (along with more water fonts in Aix), is a thermal water font (non-potable), located on the haut du Cours Mirabeau, in Aix-en. -Provence, in the Bouches-du-Rhône department, in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region, in France. The city of Aix is connected to more than 130 fonts2; Ancienne architectural tradition of the ville, depuis the double menace of the sièges armés au XVIe siècle and the epidémies of the XVIIe siècle1.
Address:
17 route de Galice, Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 4 42 16 11 61
Opening times: Daily 08:30-19:00.
Website:
www.aixenprovence.fr
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
- Musée Estienne de Saint-Jean
Hôtel Estienne de Saint-Jean, formerly the Musée du Viel Aix, is one of the city’s finest 17th-century private mansions. The finely carved door opens into a hall with a magnificent wrought-iron balustrade. The main living areas, which include parts of the original décor, contain memorials to Aix’s past.
Address:
17 rue Gaston de Saporta, Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 4 42 91 89 78
Opening times: Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00.
Website: www.aixenprovencetourism.com
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
Tourist Offices
Address:
Les Allées Provençales 300, Avenue Giuseppe Verdi, Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 4 42 16 11 61
Opening times: Mon-Sat 08:30-19:00.
Website:
www.aixenprovencetourism.com
With helpful staff, stacks of brochures and the chance to book hotels, restaurants, shows and trips, Aix en Provence Tourist Office should be your first stop in the city.
Tourist passes
The #provenceaixperience City Pass runs for 24, 48 or 72 hours and offers 14 free activities and sites, special offers and exclusive deals from
- Aix en Provence Tourist Office
Website:
www.aixenprovencetourism.com
Prices start at €25 and include free transport on the Aix-en-Provence regional bus network.
Things to do in Aix en Provence
- Drink in a truly artistic vineyard
Some 15km (9.5 miles) outside of Aix en Provence is
Chateau La Coste
Telephone:
+33 4 4261 9290
Website:
www.chateau-lacoste.com
A working, biodynamic vineyard that doubles as an outdoor art installation. Artists were encouraged to treat the Chateau’s grounds as their own, resulting in a fascinating two-hour art and architecture walk that’s bookended by a taste of the Chateau’s righteous vino.
- Go for a drink in Cezanne’s local
Post-Impressionist Paul Cezanne helped change the artistic landscape towards the end of the 19th century, and much of his time away from the easel was spent in
Les Deux Garcons
Telephone:
+44 20 8347 9834
Website:
www.les2garconsbistro.com
On the main drag in Aix. Whether you’re after a cafe au lait, an absinthe or a plate of boeuf en daube, it’s the city’s prime people-watching gallery.
- Hike up Sainte-Victoire Mountain
Set 16km (10 miles) outside of the city, Sainte-Victoire Mountain was made famous by local painter Cezanne, who could see it from his house and featured it in over 60 landscapes. It takes around two hours to reach the top, which is marked by the 19m-high (62ft) Cross of Provence. If you don’t have your own wheels, bus L110 runs directly to the mountain.
- Visit one of Aix en Provence’s many markets
Provence’s markets are known across the world. There’s a daily farmers’ market at Place Richelieu and one at Place des Prêcheurs every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. On the same days, a phantasmagoric flowers market blossoms on the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville and an antiques market crops up at the Place Verdun. Don’t miss the old books market on the first Sunday of each month at the place de l’Hotel de Ville either.
- Visit the Fondation Vasarely
Consisting of 14 hexagons standing next to each other, each 14m wide (46ft), the Fondation Vasarely
Telephone:
+33 4 4220 0109
Website:
www.fondationvasarely.fr
Is one of the most arresting pieces of modern architecture in the country. Originally conceived by artist Victor Vasarely as a polychromatic city of happiness, this wonderful art gallery now looks like a question from a maths A-level paper.
Aix en Provence tours and excursions
Aix en Provence tours
Food lovers will enjoy a gourmet walking tour of Aix, taking in local food stores as well as a visit to the 700-year-old market. There are two themed tours: one that takes in the market, and one that focuses on the best local food addresses as well as wine.
Telephone:
+33 6 72 83 98 28
Website:
www.tastesofprovence.com
Walks led by professional guides are available but should be booked in advance. The tourist office has information on self-guided walks including a Cézanne self-guided walking tour: using the studs in the pavement as a guide, stroll through the streets and follow the main stages of the painter’s life in Aix.
Telephone:
+33 4 42 16 11 61
Website:
www.aixenprovencetourism.com
Aix en Provence excursions
The pretty riverside town of Arles is within easy reach of Aix by train and is renowned for its Roman ruins, including a theatre, amphitheatre and aqueduct. Vincent Van Gogh also made his home here. Its open-air food market on Saturdays and Wednesdays is a huge draw, and the town hosts an international photography festival every year.
Website:
www.arlestourisme.com
Head 30km (18.5 miles) south to Marseille, France’s second largest city. Visit the revamped Vieux Port (the old port) or just relax on one of the many beaches. The city’s 2013 stint as European Capital of Culture resulted in a major overhaul of the old docks area, now teeming with museums and restaurants.
Website:
www.marseille-tourisme.comShopping in Aix en Provence
Souvenir hunters and shoppers will not be disappointed with the wealth of products available to buy in Aix, from gifts to perfumes and fashion. Cours Mirabeau is the legendary shopping avenue but there are many other trendy, smaller stores if you know where to go.
Calissons, a marzipan-like confectionery made from sweet almonds and preserved fruits, is what the city is famous for. It is available in most confiseries (sweet shops) in the city, but for a better selection head for Confiserie du Roy René, 11 rue Gaston de Saporta, or Léonard Parli, 35 avenue Victor Hugo. Bechard, a bakery institution that is over 100 years old, is located on Cours Mirabeau and offers a tempting array of pastries and cakes. Saoya, on rue Aude, is famous for its innovative jewellery made of stones, crystals and even molten glass and natural flowers.
Antiques are big in Aix, and the best places to go hunting for them are in the Mazarin district, around the Cours Mirabeau, in the area around the Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) and the Palais de Justice (Law Courts) and also SextiusRépublique. A good bric-a-brac market takes place every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday morning on the place Verdun, in front of the Palais de Justice; turn up early to snap the best bargains.
The Marché aux Fleurs (flower market) takes place on the same mornings on the place de l’Hôtel de Ville.
Monoprix is a three-storey shopping mall on Cours Mirabeau housing plenty of exclusive fashion stores. Visit the Géant Casino in the Jas de Bouffan district for upmarket shops too.
Shops are open 08:00-12:00 and 14:00-19:00, although some remain open at lunchtime. Most shops are closed on Sundays.
You will find all the usual Provençal fabric and earthenware in Aix, and a wide range of olive-based products and local wines, but what the city is really famous for is its calissons.
Restaurants in Aix en Provence
There is a wide range of restaurants to suit all budgets. The restaurants below have been grouped into three different pricing categories:
Expensive (over €50)
Moderate (€25 to €49)
Cheap (up to €25)
These prices are for a three-course meal for one with wine and service included.
Expensive
- Les Caves Henri IV by Le Formal
Cuisine: French
Enjoy dining in an elegant interior at this impeccable restaurant housed in a 15th-century vaulted cellar. Expect innovative cuisine with a light Provençal touch as well as fun, delicious desserts. Book well in advance to avoid disappointment. Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday and Monday.
Address:
32 rue Espariat, Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 4 42 27 08 31
Website:
www.lescaveshenri4.com
Cuisine: French
O Jum’s is a restaurant that does not go unnoticed, especially thanks to the electrifying atmosphere that reigns there. Run by passionate twins, this place has become an unmissable meeting place for those looking not only for good food.
Address:
8 Rue Emeric David, 13100 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 6 50 94 53 28
Cuisine: French
Great evening and dinner in this lovely relaxed which very well managed restaurant. It has several great plates, wine and aperitifs, and serve by a lovely. Has outdoor seating · Serves great cocktails · Serves vegetarian dishes
Address:
33 Cr Mirabeau, 13100 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 4 42 24 52 91
Website:
www.hotelnegrecoste.com
Moderate
Cuisine: French Brasserie
Le Ramus is a bistro with French and Provençal cuisine in Aix-en-Provence which offers dishes with fresh produce and local wines.
Address: 12 Pl. Ramus, 13100 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone: +33 9 66 93 44 75
Website: www.restaurant-le-ramus-aix.fr
Cuisine: French
There are quite a few restaurants spread out along Rue Fabrot. But Le MARIOLE is a cut above from most of them. Classic bistro dishes come in generous portions, and the large umbrella-covered terrace is an agreeable spot in which to enjoy them.
Address:
15-16 Pass. Agard, 13100 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 9 84 22 03 66
Website:
www.thefork.fr
Cuisine: French
Terrific service and atmosphere. Very welcoming hosts and a beautiful restaurant. Also a nice menu with good options for a nice dinner.
Address: 5 Pl. Ramus, 13100 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone: +33 4 42 22 16 39
Website: www.thefork.fr
Cheap
Cuisine: French
Laid-back restaurant offering Mediterranean street food like falafel, chicken shawarmas & meatballs.
Address:
11 Rue des Bernardines, 13100 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 9 86 46 40 46
Website:
www.titaaix.fr
Cuisine: F
alafel
Compact, low-key cafe serving pitas stuffed with falafel, alongside salads, hummus & desserts.
Address:
3 Rue de la Couronne, 13100 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 4 42 26 65 33
Website:
www.pittz.fr
Cuisine: Vietnamese
Vietnamese restaurants are very popular in France, and Tonkin Food does better than most. Regulars praise Tonkin Food refined décor, authentic atmosphere and excellent food covering both Vietnamese cuisines. They also do cookery classes if you fancy learning how to cook with seafood.
Address:
9 Rue Boulegon, 13100 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 9 83 55 39 85
Website:
www.tonkinfood.frAix en Provence Nightlife
There are plenty of pubs to choose from, while the high student population means that there is no shortage of clubs in Aix-en-Provence. Meanwhile, the theatre scene in Aix is an exciting one, with lots of small theatres showcasing experimental stuff and less ordinary productions. Tickets for most shows can be purchased directly from the venues or from the FNAC ticket network at the tourist office. Available from the tourist office and from some venues or online
Telephone:
+33 4 42 16 11 61
Website:
www.aixenprovencetourism.com
Bars in Aix en Provence
This is a classy brasserie with dimmed lighting, rich crimson decor, chandeliers and mirrors. Attracting the smart set, the bar also has regular DJs playing lounge, electro and disco music. If you need refuelling, the bar serves food from breakfast onwards.
Address:
2 place Jeanne d’Arc, Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 4 42 91 61 70
Website:
www.larotonde-aix.com
There’s a large selection of beers and spirits in this bustling bar in the Cr Sextius. Join the young clientele on the large terrace, where there are plenty of people-watching opportunities in this popular square. Occasionally you can catch live music or a DJ set.
Address: 58 Cr Sextius, 13100 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone: +33 4 88 29 44 02
Website: www.aix.backtobac.net
Clubs in Aix en Provence
Hop on the free shuttle from Aix’s centre and head to Célony, 7km (4 miles) north of the city, and to one of the region’s buzziest clubs. What used to be a jazz club now plays disco, house and Eighties sounds, all in a sultry ambience by an outdoor pool.
Address: 35 Rue Albert Einstein, 13290 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone: +33 4 42 28 76 73
Website: www.jazzfola.com
The well-established Le Mistral is a monument to loud music with a notoriously fickle entry policy. This large club, which can fit 700 people, is the place to see and be seen. The club tends to attract local celebrities and young revellers to its moody interior as well as various themed nights.
Address:
3 Rue Frédéric Mistral, 13100 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 4 42 61 34 24
Website:
www.mistral-club-aix.fr
Lovers of live music and DJs can enjoy the best of both worlds in this atmospheric club. Listen to live jazz, R&B, rock and funk in one of the stone vaulted rooms, or join the dancers in the second room where DJs keep things moving till 6am.
Address:
11 Rue de la Verrerie, 13100 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 4 42 23 00 23
Live music in Aix en Provence
The esteemed Ballet Prejlocaj, which has turned Aix into a centre for new talent in modern dance, now has its own theatre, the purpose-built Pavillon Noir. The striking steel and concrete building has a 378-seater theatre, and features huge glass panes. It also holds dance classes for all levels.
Address:
530 Av. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, 13627 Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 4 42 93 48 14
Website:
www.preljocaj.org
Theatres in Aix en Provence
- Grand Théâtre de Provence
The Grand Théâtre de Provence, inaugurated in 2007, is located between the new and old town. The modern building seats over a thousand people and offers concerts, operas, musicals and dance. It’s also one of the main venues for the summertime cultural Festival d’Aix. Head to the roof for a superb view of Mont Sainte-Victoire.
Address:
380 avenue Max Juvénal, Aix-en-Provence.
Telephone:
+33 8 20 13 20 13
Website:
www.lestheatres.netAix en Provence Food And Drink
What to Eat And Drink in Provence ?
While Provençal food is unquestionably French cuisine, it’s also rooted in its own southern geography and distinct culture. The food of Provence, like the cuisine found across the eastern border into Italy, benefits from its sun-soaked aspect. The result? Bountiful, flavorsome produce that is the pride of Provence’s kitchens.
Flavor is in the air here. While visiting the serene stone villages of Provence you’ll smell herbs such as thyme, rosemary, and, of course, lavender in the air. In fact “Herbes de Provence” is such a successful combination of flavors that it’s sold as such.
These flavors dominate in Provençal dishes although, with ancient trade ports like Marseilles, other exotic flavors have been assimilated into the food culture. Provençal food is where France meets the Mediterranean. Pour yourself a glass of chilled rosé wine while you peruse this mouthwatering list of Provençal dishes to try.
An icon of Provençal food, this colorful 18th-century stew was created by farmers as a way of using up their annual harvest of summer vegetables. The rather musical name derives from the Occitan, the medieval language of the region, for “Rataolha”, roughly translated as “tossed chunky stew”. Thus proving that everything sounds better said in French.
An expression of the region’s notable flavors, expect your bowl of steaming ratatouille to include courgette, eggplant, tomato, onion, and capsicum pepper, their flavors united by garlic and Herbes de Provence. To maintain the magnificent flavors of Provence-grown produce, it’s recommended that the vegetables are cooked separately before being thrown together, in order to preserve their individuality.
Of course, this kind of culinary dedication to the integrity of your bowl of ratatouille is not found everywhere. While visiting Provence, ask for recommendations from locals who will point you in the direction of their favorite bistro, or possibly launch into a passionate diatribe about the “true” method of ratatouille production.
Otherwise, book a table at the highly respected Lou Balico in
Nice, where it’s offered as part of a heavenly tasting menu of Provençal food.
Aïoli is such an intrinsic part of Provençal culture that it used to be the title of a 19th-century newspaper in the region. A thick garlic sauce made with oil, aïoli is believed to be of Roman origin. Its prevalence throughout the Mediterranean, with versions found in Spain, Italy, and Malta, adds credence to this origin story.
In
Provence, you’re likely to find it served alongside seafood dishes, its unctuous, garlicky nature a perfect foil for the freshness of fish. The dip takes center stage when served as part of Le Grand Aïoli. A feast day favorite, Le Grand Aïoli is a smorgasbord of pairing items such as boiled artichoke, soaked salt cod, and tuna (and at Christmas, snails) served up for a festival of sharing, with the centerpiece aïoli.
A dish that’s deeply Marseillaise, with a provenance dating back to the very founding of the city, Bouillabaisse is an essential element of Provençal cuisine.
It’s also a huge amount of food. Typically served for a group of five to share, Bouillabaisse involves a medley of fish such as gurnard, conger eel, and red rascasse. Alongside the meat is a saffron-infused broth on which rounds of spicy, mayonnaise-slathered baguette slowly take on savory stock.
If the fish varieties sound a little niche, it’s because they represent the part of the catch that Marseille’s fishermen of yore used to have difficulty selling on. Bouillabaisse acted as the solution to that problem, with those unwanted fish now the stars of dining rooms throughout
Marseille.
If you’re in the city, three-Michelin-starred Le Petit Nice is the place to try to get a reservation. For something that feels a little closer to the humble fishing origins of this iconic dish, try Chez Fonfon in the atmospheric cove of Vallon des Auffes.
With one taste, tapenade, a jet-black spread of olives, capers, anchovies, garlic, and Herbes de Provence, has the power to transport you to the edge of a Marseillaise dockside, the sun shining on the Vieux Port with the mews of the gulls carried on the breeze. While tapenade was ostensibly “invented” in Marseille in 1880, there are similar foods found in Catalan and Greek cultures.
And, oddly for an overwhelmingly olive-based dip, this aperitif-mainstay is named for the Provençal term for capers. This is generally ascribed as a hangover from an earlier, caper-only tapenade created when caper buds stored in amphorae became mushed together. Coastal in character and therefore a perfect pairing for seafood, it’s also wonderful just as a spread on slices of baguette while sipping a cool glass of aniseed pastis at a bar with sea views.
Perhaps of all Provence dishes, salade niçoise and the composition of its deliciously contrasting ingredients has, through its history, caused a great deal of upset amid the flower baskets and winding lanes of this southern region. Born of the summery city of
Nice, hence the name, the modern version of this salad is based on a stripped-down, 19th-century peasant dish involving an arrangement of tomatoes, anchovies, and olive oil on a plate. On top of these Mediterranean essentials was piled tuna, hard-boiled eggs, potatoes, olives, green beans, and, lo, a classic was born.
And, it seemed, everybody had an opinion on how it should remain a classic. “Keep the veg raw and fresh so that the flavor of the Provençal sun and the richness of its land can be tasted in every forkful.” “Use only tinned tuna, never fresh.” The debate rumbles on. Far from the madding crowd, perhaps on the sun-warmed rooftop of a French Riviera restaurant, you’ll be served a Salade Niçoise. However it comes, it’ll be magnificent, the sea and the land and all the tangy-umami flavors in between distilled into one simple salad bowl.
There’s nougat, and then there’s softly chewy south of France nougat, white as a wisp of cloud on the horizon of the Côte d’Azur and embedded with roasted pistachios and almonds. The proper name for Provence’s finest nougat is Montélimar, made in the eponymous town, where there’s even a nougat museum for the fanatical.
While the ancient origins of nougat lie in the Middle East, medieval agronomist Olivier de Serres receives the credit for his planting of almond trees that, along with the honey historically farmed in the region, helped create this Provençal tradition. What really rocketed Montélimar nougat into the global consciousness, however, was when the town’s former mayor, Emile Loubet, became President of France.
During his seven-year tenure in the highest office of the land, he liberally shared around the nougat to other heads of state, royalty, and pretty much anyone else who crossed his path. Word spread, and Montélimar’s nougatiers suddenly found themselves extremely busy.
Today, Montélimar nougat is another Provençal food with a PGI certification guarding its heritage. These delicious, chewy blocks of sugar, lavender, honey, egg white, vanilla, almonds, and pistachios are also one of Provence’s 13 traditional desserts served at Christmas.
Daube de Boeuf is a simple beef stew, elevated to greatness by French culinary ingenuity. A working-class dish favored by those transporting goods along the bumpy roads and crowded canalways of 19th-century Provence, Daube was a warming, calorie-replenishing repast.
Marinated in wine overnight, the beef was then simmered with black olives, smoked pork belly, carrots, tomatoes, and garlic with a seasoning of thyme, savory, and laurel. Daube’s secret ingredient, and what raises it up, is the ingenious addition of some dried orange peel. Rich, hearty, and complex, this pot of beef stew also represented for many of these workers the only meat that they would eat during the normal course of their lives. What made it affordable was the less tender cuts used in the stew’s production, improved by the marinade and a long, slow cook.
Wandering Nice’s palm-shaded Promenade des Anglais, the warm breeze might suddenly bring to you an aromatic whiff of warm garbanzo bean. Follow your nose and you’ll come to a stall, often with the owner calling “Socca, socca” to the gathering crowd. The process at socca’s heart is a simple one. On a wide copper disc, a batter of garbanzo bean flour, olive oil, water, and salt is poured out and crisped to a caramel-colored perfection. When it’s ready, the crust is swiftly sliced through, its pieces are drizzled in olive oil and rock salt.
It’s the peculiarly wide pan that gives credence to the story that socca was originally cooked by Roman legionnaires who used their shields as a portable griddle. However it came about, versions of this street food favorite can be found throughout the Mediterranean. In fact, the people of Provence liked it so much they invented it twice, with the Marseillaise version, panisse, cooked just a little thicker.
In
Nice, try it beneath the striped-blue awnings of Chez Thérésa in the city center, and be there before midday to avoid disappointment. Good panisse is found in many of the bars lining the Vieux Port, with sun-trap terraces offering views over the nautical coming-and-goings.
A cream dream that blends the sumptuous excess of the French Riviera with the glamor of the silver screen, the Tarte Tropézienne is a sugar-loaded hit of pure Côte d’Azur. When the Polish baker Alexandre Micka relocated to Saint Tropez in the 1950s, he, according to legend, created a cream-filled brioche treat apparently inspired by Grandma Micka’s secret recipe.
Enter up-and-coming actress, Brigitte Bardot. While filming on the Riviera, the soon-to-be-superstar tasted this bun and suggested, so dazzling was its marriage of buttery bread with vanilla and lemon cream, that Micka had to name it after the equally exquisite St. Tropez. Micka obliged, and both brioche treat and French actress ascended to celebrity status not long after.
Micka’s empire, where you can eat the original Tarte Tropézienne, now spreads across the south of his adopted country. Only there can you find the authentic sugar-studded Tarte Tropézienne, although versions of this classic are found in other patisseries.
A literally sugar-loaded innovation of Provençal food culture, candied fruit in the south of France is not to be confused with common fruit-shaped jellies. With this Provençal treat, pieces of actual fruit undergo a traditional technique that transforms them into long-lasting desserts. And it’s not just smaller fruit; in the shop windows of artisan candy producers, you’ll sometimes see entire glazed melons shining with an inner sugary light.
The original idea for preserving Provence’s natural bounty is credited to none other than astrologer-seer Nostradamus, a native of Saint Rémy-de-Provence. In the technique, still practiced in the same way today, the fruit’s juices are slowly replaced with concentrated sugar syrup. This process is then repeated up to 15 times until it’s complete.
Candied fruits take pride of place decorating one of the most iconic of Provence’s dishes in the Twelfth Night Cake or “Brioche des Rois”. Elsewhere in France, the Twelfth Night Cake is a marzipan tart, a confection spurned by the southerners as too “Parisian”.
Seek out fifth-generation artisan producer Lilamand in Saint Remy-de-Provence, famous for his whole candied pineapples, or Bechard in Aix-en-Provence.
Rosé wine is a symbol of Provence. This chilled, often light-bodied tipple, typically made from a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Mourvedre grapes is a perfect partner with seafood and many of the salty, olive oil-dressed snacks of the region.
The history of Provençal rosé harks back to the arrival of the Ancient Greeks in 600 BC on the piece of picturesque coast that would eventually grow into Marseille. The Greek style of wine was a blend of white and red grapes that was then diluted; a style that was to be later adopted by the Romans.
Besides the abundance of sunshine and gravelly soils, Provence’s wine producers are also assisted by the famous Mistral wind. This wind of seasonal change can be a blustery nuisance to its citizens, but its dry nature is a boon in promoting healthy vines, half of which are dedicated to rosé production.
As for what a classic Provençal rosé tastes like? It’s a dry, crisp, fruit-forward glassful that’s perfect with most kinds of Provençal food, although something like a Salade Niçoise (however it comes) is a match made in heaven.