Budapest

Budapest Travel Guide

• About Budapest

Draped along the banks of the Danube, with the Buda Hills as a backdrop, the natural beauties of Budapest are bountiful. But crowned with grand fin-de-siècle and art nouveau architecture, it holds itself as one of Europe’s most striking cities. Savouring caffeine and creamy kipfels in its majestic traditional coffee houses merely sets the tone for a city that revels in the high culture of world-class galleries, classical music and literary theatre. Soak in its magnificent spas, buoyed by mineral waters from the surrounding thermal springs, unwind in its natural hot sulphur baths or relax with a massage beneath art nouveau grandeur. What stands today as the Hungarian capital, originally rose as three separate cities: Buda and Pest, on either side of the Danube, plus Óbuda to the north. The three united in 1873, and while Óbuda may live in the shadow of its more famous neighbours, it was the site of the city’s original Roman settlement, where the ruins of an amphitheatre, tombstones and statues still sit. Unanimity in name hasn’t meant uniformity in character, and the division of the Danube has left Buda and Pest with very different personalities. In Buda, visitors climb winding streets up to the Castle District to enjoy a wealth of history. Little remains of Buda Castle itself, though the Renaissance-style Royal Palace, Matthias Church and the Fisherman’s Bastion all intrigue nearby. Pest is where all the action takes place. Its impressive fin-de-siècle architecture and wide boulevards challenged Vienna as the Austro-Hungarian Empire’s key city. It is home to the parliament building, numerous art galleries and more opera, concerts and ballet performances than there are days of the week. The best restaurants are this side of the river too and it’s here that the nightlife wrestles with until the early hours as well. For a unique drink try a Ruin Pub, Budapest’s network of bars in disused buildings that include former tenement houses, factory buildings and community centres. Hungarian itself may be impenetrably foreign, but even if you don’t speak a word you’ll soon feel at home in Budapest.

• Budapest History

The modern touristic pull of thermal spas and gastronomic brilliance is what drew Budapest’s first settlers too. Evidence of Hungary’s early hunter-gatherers show they lived along the gradient of what would later become Gellért Hill, and down both sides of the mighty River Danube. With a wealth of animals to eat and warming natural springs, these settlements soon swelled in size under the expansion of the Celts in the third century BC. Before long though, this became a Roman-dominated area. They saw the land’s topographical advantages and built up the ancient city of Aquincum, which became the capital city of Pannonia Inferior. You can see its remains today in Óbuda. The Romans found themselves fleeing the city when the Huns invaded in the second century AD. Further attacks and wars hindered any significant development in terms of Budapest itself, as the Avars and Charlemagne tribes passed through, scattering settlements. The Magyars arrived in around 896, and following the Bulgarian army’s victory over the Holy Roman Empire, two military fortresses were erected: one in Buda and a second in Pest. Budapest’s first Golden Age coincided with the reign of Renaissance King Matyás (1458-90), before a second one was symbolised by the 1896 millennium celebration in City Park. The city’s Silver Age came during the 20th-century inter-war period, when the likes of Evelyn Waugh and the Prince of Wales frequented Budapest’s spas and casinos. Balanced against the good times, however, are plenty of bad periods. The Hungarians’ defeat against the Turkish in 1526 stung, and the Hapsburg rule deprived Hungary of its autonomy until 1867. Devastation in WWII was followed by Soviet control, which oversaw the brutal crushing of the Hungarian Uprising in 1956, and was only lifted in 1989. After a chaotic period of post-communist adjustment, Hungary joined the EU in 2004 and Budapest emerged as a buzzing 21st-century metropolis.

• Did you know?

Completed in 1859, Dohány Street Synagogue is Europe’s largest synagogue. Modern Budapest was officially born in 1873, when Buda, Óbuda and Pest were joined. Budapest’s subway system opened in 1896 and is the second oldest in the world.

• Weather in Budapest

Enjoying a mild, central European climate, Budapest is a year-round destination, though it heaves with tourists in July and August. The most pleasant time of year to visit is May to June and September, when temperatures remain warm but visitor numbers and hotel prices are significantly reduced. Although flights prices may be a little more expensive, the winter months can offer that magical dusting of snow upon the grandiose buildings, which can make this magnificent city even more magical.

In partnership with Get Your Guide

Book popular activities in Budapest

Things to see in Budapest

Attractions

• Várnegyed (Buda Castle and the Castle District)

Old Buda’s Castle Hill and Várnegyed (Castle District) swells with impressive medieval and baroque architecture. Popular with tourists, who wend their way up its winding, cobbled streets, there are ripe rewards for those that reach its summit. Home to the Royal Palace, the Matthias Church, Budapest History Museum, the Hungarian National Gallery and the Buda Castle Labyrinth, many complete this sightseeing spread with a ride on the funicular which carries visitors to and from Széchenyi Lánchíd (Chain Bridge). Address: Castle Hill (Várnegyed), Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 458 3000 Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Website: www.budacastlebudapest.com Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Országház (Parliament)

When the cities of Buda, Pest and Óbuda were united, the government commissioned a new parliament building to express the nation’s sovereignty. Inspired by London’s Houses of Parliament, the design by local architect Imre Steindl was inaugurated on the 1,000th anniversary of the Hungarian nation. With its elegant neo-Renaissance dome, topped by a pointy neo-Gothic spire, the building stretches over 250m (820ft) along the River Danube. It was here that the crowds assembled on 23 October 1989, when Mátyás Szurös declared Hungary a Republic from the balcony on Kossuth Lajos tér. There are guided tours in English at 1000, then on the hour from 1200-1500. Address: V Kossuth Lajos tér 1-3, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 441 4000 Opening times: Daily 08:00-18:00. Website: ww.parlament.hu Admission Fees: Yes (free for EU passport-holders). Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Buda Castle (Royal Palace)

Dating from the 13th century, the Royal Palace on Castle Hill has survived many wars. Within the palace’s partially reconstructed walls are several museums and galleries, including Budapest History Museum (also known as Castle Museum) and the Hungarian National Gallery. The Castle Museum traces the city’s history from Buda’s liberation from the Turks in 1686, to the 1970s. The Hungarian National Gallery is situated at the core of the palace and its encyclopaedic collection of Hungarian art, from the 10th century to the present day, provides a valuable insight into the Hungarian national identity. Address: Szent György tér 2, Palota Szent György tér, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 458 3000 Opening times: Tues-Sun 10:00-18:00. Website: www.budavar.hu Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Museum of Fine Arts (Szepmuveszeti)

 The Museum of Fine Arts offers a fine collection of international work from old masters to the present artists, housed in a neo-classical building near Heroes’ Square. The wealth of work here is so vast because the Hungarian Parliament passed a law to unify all of the art collections in the capital. The museum also has an Egyptian collection and plenty of paintings from the classical period. European art is well-represented with works by Delacroix, Monet, Cézanne, Gauguin, Kokoschka and Chagall. There is a programme of temporary exhibitions throughout the year. Address: Dózsa György útca 41, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 469 7100 Opening times: Tues-Sun 10:00-18:00. Website: www.mfab.hu Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Szent István Bazilika (St Stephen’s Basilica)

St Stephen’s Basilica, Budapest’s largest church, was designed by József Hild and begun in 1851. It wasn’t consecrated until 1905 though, as much of the Basilica had to be rebuilt after storm damage. Inside, Gyula Benczúr’s painting of Szent István offering the Hungarian crown to the Virgin Mary symbolises the alliance between Hungary and Western Europe. The church is named after St Stephen, the first King of Hungary, and his holy right hand can be viewed in the Chapel. The cupola at the top of the Basilica’s tower offers excellent views of the city. Address: V Szent István tér 1, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 311 0839 Opening times: Mon-Sun 09:00-17:45. Website: www.bazilika.biz Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Mátyás Templom (Matthias Church)

The tiles that cover the roof of Matthias Church are as colourful and richly patterned as snakeskin, while the architecture is in a florid, late Gothic style. Inside is a melange of styles from the 13th to the 19th centuries. A church has been at the site since at least 1015, but when the Turks occupied the Castle District in 1541, it was turned into a mosque and the walls painted with extracts from the Koran. In the 20th century, it was used by occupying German forces as a kitchen, and later as stables by the Russians. Address: Szentháromság tér 2, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 355 5657 Opening times: Daily 09:00-17:00. Website: www.matyas-templom.hu Admission Fees: Yes. Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Hotel Gellért and Thermal Baths

 Many regard the thermal baths attached to Hotel Gellért as the finest in the city. A bathhouse has stood on the site since the 1500s, when its waters were valued for their medicinal qualities by the Turks. Its current building is an art nouveau masterpiece. Bathing in its soothing waters, surrounded by flower motifs, columns and delicate wall designs, is one of Budapest’s highlights, but even if you’re not up for a dip, stop by to drink in the glorious foyer. A huge array of treatments and massages are offered, so read the display board carefully before approaching the grumpy staff. Swimmers are forbidden to enter the pool without a swimming hat. Address: Kelenhegyi út 4, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 466 6166 Opening times: Daily 09:00-19:00. Website: www.gellertfurdo.hu Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Hősök Tere (Heroes’ Square) and Millenniumi Emlékmű (Millennium Monument)

 At the end of Andrássy Avenue, one of the grandest streets in Budapest, lies Heroes’ Square. Home to the Millennium Monument, this cultural plaza is bordered by the City Park and is surrounded by buildings such as the Museum of Fine Arts and the Hall of Art. The Millennium Monument was given its name after being completed in 1900 and it has statues of the seven tribes that founded Hungary, plus other historical figures. The square is rich with political connotations too: during Soviet times its statues were toppled and it has seen many demonstrations and political rallies over the years. Address: Budapest, Hősök tere. Budapest. Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Dohány Zsinagóga (Central Synagogue)

 Europe’s largest synagogue (and one of the biggest in the world) was designed by Lajos Föster, in a Byzantine-Moorish style, and completed in 1859. The intricately decorated interior, with beautiful frescos, an ornamental eastern wall and chandeliers, was finished by Frigyes Feszl. Desecrated by German and Hungarian Nazis, its two domes now gleam again after a 10-year restoration project. Some 724,000 Hungarian Jews were murdered in the Holocaust and their lives are remembered in the Jewish History Museum, annexed to the synagogue, and at Imre Varga’s memorial to the side of the synagogue. Address: VII Dohány utca 2, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 343 0420 Opening times: Sun-Fri 10:00-18:00. Website: www.dohany-zsinagoga.hu Admission Fees: Yes. Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Széchenyi thermal baths

 With 21 indoor and outdoor pools, Széchenyi thermal baths is the country’s largest thermal bath. The water is supplied by two springs and it contains calcium, magnesium, hydro-carbonate, also containing sodium and sulphate, said to be good for degenerative joint diseases and chronic arthritis. Address: Állatkerti krt. 9-11, Budapest. Telephone: +36 20 435 0051 Opening times: Daily 07:00-20:00 Website: www.szechenyibath.hu Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Széchenyi Lánchíd (Chain Bridge)

 Nine bridges link Buda to Pest but the Chain Bridge is the first and most famous, with its solid arches and lion statues. When it was originally constructed, it was one of the largest suspension bridges in the world, and it took its name from the iron chains that join its huge, classical river piers. Completed in 1848, the bridge was inaugurated a year later, allowing for the integration of Buda, Pest and Óbuda in 1873. After suffering considerable damage at the hands of the Nazis, the bridge was repaired and re-inaugurated in 1949. Address: Széchenyi Lánchíd, Budapest. Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: No UNESCO: No

• Fishermen’s Bastion

Behind the sanctuary of the Matthias Church, the Fisherman’s Bastion offers a splendid view of the Danube and Pest. At the end of the 19th century, Frigyes Schulek designed a graceful system of stairs running from the Danube to the hilltop, and the current structure, which has been embellished with turrets, arcades, curved stairs and statues, was intended to be the end point. Schulek imagined the bastion section defended by the fisherman’s guild, hence the name. Address: Szentháromság tér 5, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 458 3030 Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Website: www.fishermansbastion.com Admission Fees: Yes (for St Michael Chapel and the turrets only) Disabled Access: No UNESCO: No

•  Margitsziget (Margaret Island)

Wedged in a loop of the River Danube, and linked by Árpád híd and Margit híd to Buda and Pest, the 2km (1.5-mile) Margaret Island is one of the calmest and greenest spots in Budapest. No cars are allowed or needed – visitors can walk end-to-end in just 20 minutes. The island is named after the devout daughter of King Béla IV, who lived here in a Dominican convent in the 13th century. In summer, Margaret Island is bustling with people heading for a swim at the Hajós Alfréd swimming pool or Palatinus pool. Address: Margaret Island, Budapest. Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

Tourist Offices

• Budapest Tourism Office

Address: Sütő útca 2 1052 (near Deák tér), Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 438 8080 Opening times: Daily 08:00-20:00. Website: www.budapestinfo.hu There is a second tourist information point in Pest at Teréz körút 2-4 Telephone: +36 1 322 4098 plus an office in Buda Castle at Szent György tér 2 Telephone: +36 1 488 0475 There are also offices in each of the terminals at Feriheg airport Telephone: +36 1 438 8080

Tourist passes

• The Budapest Card : Is available for one, two or three days and provides free travel on public transport, plus free entry to seven museums and St Lukács Bath.

It also offers discounts at more than 70 attractions, tours, events and restaurants. Cards can be bought at tourist information offices, hotels and main Metro ticket booths. A 5% discount is available if bought online from the Budapest Tourism website. Website: www.budapest-card.com

Things to do in Budapest

• Cruise down the Danube

With the Danube key to the life of Budapest, there’s no better way to see the city than from the river. There are boat trips to suit all tastes and budgets, and cruises can last between 30 minutes and three hours. Sailings that include cocktails, candlelit dinner and night sailings are all available too. If they seem too sedate, try a speedboat route or an evening booze cruise. Operators include Budapest Danube Cruise Telephone: +36 1 212 3131 Website: www.budapestrivercruise.com

• Cycle the Buda Hills or Margaret Island

Budapest can be a great city for cycling with routes along the Danube particularly popular. Bike hire is widely available and bike lane provision is improving slowly, although some drivers and traffic clogged streets can be a problem. Further-flung attractions such as the Buda Hills and Margaret Island are both perfect destinations for a leisurely ride. Velo-Touring Telephone: +36 1 319 0571 Website: www.velo-touring.hu Yellow Zebra Bikes Telephone: +36 1 266 8777 Website: www.yellowzebratours.com offer bike hire and guided tours.

• Have a swing at one of Budapest’s best golf courses

In the summer months, golfers might want to tee off at the Budapest Highland Golf Club and Academy Telephone: +36 1 362 8020 Website: www.highlandgolf.hu     a nine hole course that offers day membership. For the more; Pannonia Golf and Country Club Telephone: +36 22 594 200 Website: www.golfpannonia.hu has 18 holes and also offers guest passes.

• Hike the hills around the city

The hills and forests around Budapest offer excellent opportunities for hiking, taking in some interesting towns such as Eger and Hollókő. Nearby natural attractions include Szalajka Valley and the cave lake of Tapolca. The European Long Distance Walking Route E4 passes close to Budapest and offers great views of the city.

• Take to the waters in a traditional spa

Take the waters in Budapest, one of the world’s most famous spa towns, and you are spoiled for choice with many excellent and historic thermal baths to choose from: Danubius Hotel Gellért: Built in wonderful Art Nouveau-style and opened in 1918, the impressive Gellért hotel shares the building with the world-famous Gellért Spa, located on the Danube riverbanks, at the foot of Gellért Hill. Metro line M4 stops right next to the hotel, at Szent Gellért Tér, while the city center and the business areas are also reachable in a 10-minute walk. Telephone: +36 1 889 5500 Website: www.hotelgellert.hu-budapest.com Széchenyi Thermal Baths: The Széchenyi Medicinal Bath in Budapest is the largest medicinal bath in Europe. Its water is supplied by two thermal springs, one at 74 °C and the other at 77 °C. Components of the thermal water include sulfate, calcium, magnesium, bicarbonate and a significant amount of metaboric acid and fluoride. Telephone: +36 1 363 3210 Website: www.szechenyifurdo.hu Lukacs Baths: The Lukács Thermal Bath is a historic indoor/outdoor thermal bath spa in Budapest, Hungary, heated by natural hot springs. All pools and four saunas can be used by all guests except for the optional area of the sauna world, which contains five more saunas, ice cooling pool, igloo and heated roman bench. Telephone: +36 1 326 1695 Website: www.lukacsfurdo.hu Rudas Bath: Rudas Bath or Rudas fürdő is a thermal bath in Budapest, Hungary which is claimed to have medicinal properties. It was founded in 1571/1572 during the time of Ottoman rule. To date, it retains many of the key elements of a Hammam, exemplified by its Ottoman dome and octagonal pool. Telephone: +36 1 356 1010 Website: www.rudasfurdo.hu

Budapest tours and excursions

Budapest tours

• Bicycle tours

Yellow Zebra Bikes offer cycle tours of the city’s big sites including Hero’s Square, City Park, Inner Pest and the Buda Castle District. The company has several routes to choose from, including evening rides and private tours, with refreshment stops factored in. Bicycle hire is also available. Budapest Bike Breeze Tours run similar trips as well as Bike and Boat tours, Wheels and Meals Sightseeing routes and a special Fading Communism circuit. Guides speak English. Telephone: +36 1 269 3843 , +36 20 488 5954 Website: www.yellowzebrabikes.com

• Boat tours

There are several themed boat tours in Budapest, so visitors can either glide down the Danube with dinner and drinks, or sightsee with a little more speed and surf. Budapest River Cruise offers a Cocktail and Beer Cruise tour, where alcohol accompanies the tourist attractions, while Legenda has a more traditional one-hour waterway exploration with an optional walking tour of Margaret Island too. It also hosts a candlelit dinner cruise which includes a four-course meal and live music. Telephone: +36 20 953 5251 , +36 1 317 2203 Website: www.budapestrivercruise.com

• Bus tours

City Tour is one of many bus tour operators in the city. Their Budapest routes typically last for two hours and depart from V Andrássy út 3, taking in the Jewish District, Buda Castle, Market Hall, National Museum and more. They sell hop on, hop off tickets that last for 24 hours. Big Bus Tours offer a similar hop on, hop off service around the city, passing everything from Andrassy Avenue to the Castle District. The entire route takes around two hours and its talking guidebooks are available in 23 languages. Telephone: +36 1 374 7050 , +36 1 235 0078 Website: www.citytour.hu

• Walking tours

Absolute Tours offers a selection of daily walking tours, for which reservations are not usually necessary. These take around three hours and cover Budapest’s major sights. Themed tours include the Hammer and Sickle Tour, Absolute Night Stroll and Absolute Hungaro Gastro. Alternatively, the Free Budapest Walking Tour only ask visitors to pay whatever they can afford. These daily guided routes are run by knowledgeable locals and usually take 2 hours 30 minutes to complete. Specialist routes include Communism and Jewish themes. Telephone: +36 1  269 3843 , +36 1  340 9217 Website: www.absolutetours.com

Budapest excursions

• Lake Balaton

The hugely popular Lake Balaton region is romantically known as the Hungarian Sea. While its water is largely waist deep, the Tihany Well in the north reaches a depth of 13m (43ft). Naturally, activities centre on the water, and include sailing, windsurfing and fishing for eels or fogas – the perch-pike unique to Lake Balaton, best enjoyed with wine from the nearby Badacsony Hills. Approximately 120km (75 miles) southwest of Budapest, Balatonfüred can be reached by train from Déli pályaudvar in Budapest or by bus from:

• Budapest’s Erzsébet tér

Telephone: +36 87 581 220 Website: www.balatonfured.hu

• Szentendre

Several waves of 19th century Serbian refugees defined the character of this historic town on the Danube Bend, 19km (12 miles) from Budapest. A group of artists found the Serb-abandoned Szentendre in the 1920s, liked what they saw, and formed a colony here. Its incense-filled hilltop churches include Blagovestenska Church, which looks on to the town’s main square, as well as the spectacular Belgrade Cathedral, next to the Museum of Serbian Church Art. Telephone: +36 26 300 407 Website: www.iranyszentendre.hu

Shopping in Budapest

The variety of goods on sale in Budapest has dramatically increased since the end of the Soviet era, and despite the ubiquitous shopping malls and designer stores that have popped up, there are still a great many small, charming shops selling something unusual.

• Key areas

Pest’s chic shopping street, Váci útca, has been a fashionable spending spot since the 18th century. Today its surrounding avenues tempt tourists too with familiar high street and designer names. Andrássy Avenue is another high-end option featuring some art nouveau gems such as the Paris Department Store. Fashion Street, from Vörösmarty tér to Deák tér, is home to many stylish labels and Király útca is where Budapest’s emerging design scene currently resides.

• Markets

The Great Market Hall (Nagy Vásárcsarnok) at Fovám tér offers a fine selection of produce with strings of paprika-coloured coral necklaces, pots of pickles, goose liver and salami all on offer. There are supermarkets to stock up on Tokaj wines, Pálinka (cherry and apricot brandy) and bitter, black Zwack unicum (herbal liqueur). Upstairs, there are hand-embroidered tablecloths, porcelain and traditional folk costumes.

• Shopping centres

The Corvin Plaza: Is the biggest shopping malls in Budapest. It has everything from pharmacies and printing services to clothes and electronic shops, plus a free ice rink. There are many malls around the city, but for something different try Budapest’s BÁV stores, state-run pawn shops selling everything from junk to gems. Address: Futó útca 37-45, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 356 1010 Website: www.corvinplaza.hu

• Opening hours

Standard opening hours are Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00 (often 20:00/21:00 on Thursdays) and Sat 10:00-13:00. The Great Market Hall opens Mon 06:00-17:00, Tues-Fri 06:00-18:00 and Sat 06:00-14:00. Only shopping malls open on Sunday. Many small shops close in summer.

• Souvenirs

Good gifts include Hungarian folk art such as dolls in local costume, embroidered pieces, clothes and pottery. Good handpainted porcelain can be found at Zsolany, Kigyó útca 4 and Herend, I Szentháromság útca 5.

• Tax information

Sales tax (ÁFA) of 27% (18% food and hotel rooms, 5% medical supplies and books) is included in the price and can be reclaimed by visitors from outside the EU. The production of a receipt and a completed refund application form is required at customs.

Restaurants in Budapest

The restaurants below have been grouped into three pricing categories: Expensive (over Ft9,000) Moderate (Ft3,000 to Ft9,000) Cheap (under Ft3,000) These prices are for an average three-course meal for one, including half a bottle of house wine or equivalent, but excluding tax and tip.

Expensive

• Gundel

Cuisine: Hungarian This has long been regarded as one of the city’s best restaurants, and it is certainly one of its most famous. Gundel has been serving traditional dishes since 1894, and some of them have become city institutions, including the Gundel pancake and their goose liver speciality. The wine list is extensive and the art nouveau interior is a feast for the eyes too. Address: Gundel Károly út 4, Budapest. Telephone: +36 30 603 2480 Website: www.gundel.hu

• New York Café

Cuisine: International Dine in the opulent, Italian Renaissance setting of this Fin de Siècle building. The café was originally part of the New York Life Assurance Company (hence the name) and a favourite with the Budapest literati. It fell into disrepair in the 1940s but reopened as a café in the Soviet era. It was only after the building was converted into a luxury hotel that it was restored to its former glory. Its infamous desserts make up for the good, but unadventurous, main courses of pasta and goulash. Address: Erzsébet krt 9-11, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 8 866 167 Website: www.newyorkcafe.hu

• Robinson Restaurant

Cuisine: Modern Hungarian, international Nestled on an island in the middle of Városligeti Lake, Robinson Restaurant is a spot where diners can enjoy a romantic candlelit meal overlooking the waters and greenery of Budapest City Park. Food is on the fine side with Argentinean steaks, salmon ravioli and luxurious puddings on offer. Booking is advised. Address: Városligeti Lake, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 422 0222 Website: www.robinsonrestaurant.hu

Moderate

• Gerbeaud

Cuisine: Coffeehouse, Modern European This landmark Budapest café is one of the finest coffee shops in Europe. The interior is gorgeous, done up in AustroHungarian opulence, and completed with rich plaster work, magnificent chandeliers, marble tables, lavish fine wood panelling and brocade wall coverings. Among other decorative items is the piano that was intended for use on board the Titanic. Address: V Võrõsmarty tér 7-8, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 429 9000 Website: www.gerbeaud.hu

• Gerlóczy Café

Cuisine: Hungarian Tucked away behind the Vaci Útca shopping district, this charming café has bags of character and is often given the accolade of ‘best cafe in Budapest’. On warmer days, the garden, with its fairy lights, is teeming with guests, while the grand Hungarian décor inside offers its own stylish lure. As well as being home to several parrots, second hand English books are sold on the terrace. The Hungarian menu and delicious desserts do not disappoint. Address: Gerlóczy útca 1, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 501 4000 Website: www.gerloczy.hu

• Salaam Bombay

Cuisine: Indian One of several Indian restaurants in Budapest, Salaam Bombay has a good selection of meat and vegetarian dishes and its location next to the Chain Bridge makes it an excellent central choice. It is brightly decorated in a modern style and offers a good value option. Address: Mérleg útca 6, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 411 1252 Website: www.salaambombay.hu

Cheap

• Hummus Bar

Cuisine: Middle Eastern Hummus Bar first opened in an attempt to bring Middle Eastern food to Hungarians. Several years and seven Hummus Bars later, the mission has been accomplished. Aside from every combination of hummus you can possibly think of, there are couscous dishes, salads, soups, breads and desserts. While this branch has meat dishes, some are strictly vegetarian. Service here is fast, the food filling and the prices affordable. Booking not required. Address: Október 6 útca, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 354 0108 Website: www.hummusbar.hu

• Drum Café Budapest

Cuisine: Hungarian Drum Cafe Langosh & Gulash Bar offers a taste of Hungary that has garnered mixed reactions. While some guests appreciate the authentic dishes and find the prices reasonable, others have encountered cold or greasy food that detracted from their experience. Address: Dob utca 2, Budapest. Telephone: +36 20 318 6648 Website: www.drumcafe.hu

• Padthai wokbar

Cuisine: Thai Budapest’s first wok bar is proving to be popular. Customers choose what bases, toppings and sauces they fancy, and watch as chefs prepare each order from scratch over a roaring flame. The restaurant’s healthy approach to fast food means only fresh, local produce is used, while its spacious modern setting and central location makes it ideal for grub on the go. Address: Papnövelde u. 10, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 784 5079 Website: www.padthaiwokbar.com

Budapest Nightlife

Budapest has a grand history in music, ranging from operas to folk songs. Today, however, you’re just as likely to find techno clubs or live rock music: new clubs and music venues are constantly sprouting up all over Budapest especially around VII Liszt Ferenc tér and IX Ráday utca. Borozós are cheap wine cellars, where it is rare to see women, especially unaccompanied. Sörözös are beer houses that also serve good and moderately priced food. The best sources for nightlife and cultural listings is The Budapest Sun (www.budapestsun.com),. You can buy tickets for most cultural and sporting events from TEX Ticket Express, I Déli pályaudvar, VI Andrássy út 18, and other locations, or order online at www.tex.hu.

Bars in Budapest

Ruin Bars in Budapest:

Ruin Bars are really unique to Hungary. They are so much fun that I wonder why they are not actually found in the Netherlands. Anyway, someone once had the brilliant idea to transform abandoned buildings and places into bars. You won’t believe your eyes when you walk into one. The bars generally have incredibly colourful, creative and actually a bit crazy interiors. A ‘mess’ that has been thrown together, with sometimes complete trees in the pub. It is really recommended to visit one of the Ruin Bars below during your city trip to Budapest. If you are not so much into nightlife, go there during the day for a cup of coffee, or visit one of the farmers markets in Szimpla Kert.

• Szimpla Kert

Probably the most famous of Budapest’s Ruin Pubs (bars that open in disused buildings that are usually decorated with an eclectic mix of second hand furniture), Szimpla Kert is something of a cult with both tourists and locals. Found in an old tenement house, customers that explore its labyrinth of corridors will find each room is adorned to a different theme. Helpfully, it also offers a good selection of drinks. Address: Kazinczy útca 14, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 352 4198 Website: www.szimpla.hu

• Instant

Instant had to move probably because its landlord would not renew its lease. Luckily for them, another ruin bar called Fogas ház had some extra space and allowed Instant to move in. Instant got to keep its unique identity with underground electronic music with psychedelic lighting and Fogas ház keeps its own identity. With Instant and Fogas ház now in the same building, this is easily the larger Ruin Bar complex in Budapest. Address:  Akácfa utca 49-51, Budapest. Telephone: +36 70 638 5040 Website: www.instant-fogas.com

• Mazel Tov

Mazel Tov is for people who like the Ruin bar concept but who prefer it to be more stylish. I think that they are trying to create a new kind of ruin bar. Here you will not find run-down furniture and old junk on the walls, but a carefully thought-out design. The bar’s ambience is one of its highlights, featuring a beautifully restored and spacious courtyard that creates a chic and welcoming atmosphere. The unique decor, including hanging plants and fairy lights, adds to the enchanting setting. The Bar serves Middle Eastern cuisine that caters to all diets be it vegetarians, vegans, and carnivores. It is located next door to Fogas ház in the Jewish Quarter. Address: Akácfa u. 47, Budapest. Telephone: +36 70 626 4280 Website: www.mazeltov.hu

• Doboz

As with Mazel Tov, Doboz is a more upmarket Ruin Bar. It has more of a contemporary design while still retaining some of the characteristics of a traditional ruin bar. Doboz is situated along Klauzál Street and is one of the largest party venues of District VII. It was named after a large red box-shaped piece of art located in the venue (“doboz” means box in Hungarian). The standout attraction of Doboz is the King Kong sculpture which hangs from a tree in the middle of the garden. Address:  Klauzál utca 10, Budapest. Telephone: +36 6 20 449 4801 Website: www.doboz.co.hu

• Szatyor Bar

Szatyor Bar is located on the other side of the Danube in Buda. This looks like your typical ruin bar but it is more upmarket than the usual ruin bars you find in District VII. The food menu is small but the dishes are good but more expensive than usual ruin bar prices. They also have a large selection of craft beers. Szatyor Bar attracts a slightly older crowd than most other ruin bars. Address: Bartók Béla út 36, Budapest. Telephone: +36 20 502 2597 Website: www.szatyorbar.hu

Clubs in Budapest

• Akvárium Klub

The most central nightspot in Budapest, the Aquarium Club is also one of its most prominent in terms of big-name DJs and attractive live acts. Filling a sunken courtyard with split-level bar terracing beside what was the city’s main bus station, the Akvárium consists of several indoor spaces that can either be raucous or intimate, depending on the event and hall chosen to host it. Address: Erzsébet tér 12, Budapest. Telephone: +36 30 860 3368 Website: www.akvariumklub.hu

• Ötkert Club

This central spot offers a slightly more polished clubbing experience than its edgier counterparts. Ötkert’s magic takes place in an impressive, restored 19th-century building. On most summer nights, Ötkert boasts five DJs playing a mix of commercial music, R&B and hip hop across two rooms. They also have a large terrace which is utterly perfect in July and August. If you’re here in winter, don’t worry – it comes equipped with outdoor heating for colder nights. Address: Zrínyi u. 4/A, Budapest. Telephone: +36 70 330 8652 Website: www.otkert.hu

• Heaven Club

Opened its doors in 2019, and with more than 1000 people capacity it instantly became one of the biggest single-dance floor party places in the city. Heaven gives you a luxurious impression thanks to its tasteful and elegant interior design. Address: Deák Ferenc u. 5, Budapest. Telephone: +36 30 151 2000 Website: www.clubheavenbudapest.com

Live music in Budapest

• Dürer Kert

Dürer Kert is situated in the former University building and has become established as one of the most vibrant clubs of recent years. Dürer hosts live shows (on the garden stage), DJ sets (there are multiple dance floors), and various other events. Similar to most of the other ruin bars, Dürer has a large (pebbled) beer garden. Address:  Öböl str. 1, Budapest. Website: www.durerkert.com

• A38

A38 is a Ukrainian stone-carrier barge that has been reincarnated as a floating club, art gallery, restaurant, bar and live music spot. It is one of Budapest’s trendiest venues and boasts a year-round programme of exhibitions, events and concerts. A recent revamp has given it an extra shine and with a plethora of live acts stepping aboard, it has also gained a reputation as one of Europe’s coolest music spaces. Address: Budai alsó rakpart, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 464 3940 Website: www.a38.hu/en

• Hungarian Heritage House

For something more traditional, head to the Hungarian Heritage House in Buda, home to the Hungarian State Folk Ensemble. Established five decades ago with the aim of collecting, preserving and performing folk music alongside customary Hungarian dance and costumes, they have since become one of the world’s top touring groups. The Hungarian Heritage House hosts their regular performances which include folk plays, music and dance. Address: Corvin tér 8, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 225 6049 Website: www.heritagehouse.hu

• Morrisons 2

Morrisons 2 is a popular bar and club in Budapest famous for its live rock music. Located near Nyugati Station, this venue showcases talented local rock bands, covering both classics and original compositions. With its energetic atmosphere and affordable drinks, Morrisons 2 is the go-to place for rock enthusiasts. Address: Szent István krt. 11., Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 374 3329 Website: www.morrisons2.hu

Classical music in Budapest

• Bartók Memorial House

Bartók Memorial House is the former residence of the great composer and now a museum in his honour. In the early 20th century, Béla Bartók (1881-1945) and Zoltán Kodály (1882-1967) scoured the country to capture its vanishing folk songs. Their efforts have enriched today’s vibrant Hungarian music scene. Events such as concerts, film presentations and talks are held regularly in the house and the garden is used for open-air concerts in the summer. Address: Csalán útca 29, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 394 2100 Website: www.bartokmuseum.hu

• Franz Liszt Academy of Music

The Franz Liszt Music Academy, founded by the musical genius himself in 1875, is one of the most prestigious music schools in Hungary. The recent addition of an independent Folk Music Faculty has further enhanced its reputation. Concerts are held in both the Grand Hall and Chamber Hall of this art nouveau building, which aims to attract the world’s leading musicians and performers. Its eclectic programme of concerts includes everything from classical, jazz and folk music to opera. Address: Wesselényi utca 52, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 462 4600 Website: www.lfze.hu

Dance in Budapest

• Trafó House of Contemporary Arts

A multidisciplinary centre of contemporary arts housed in a former electrical transformer station, Trafó offers a varied programme of dance, music and theatre (in Hungarian only). Hosting performances that are at the cutting edge of the Budapest art scene, as well as many international productions, the programme is often varied with everything from experimental exhibitions to cultural concerts. Address: Liliom útca 41, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 215 1600 Website: www.trafo.hu

Music and Dance in Budapest

• Hungarian State Opera House

This breathtaking neo-Renaissance building boasts an opulently decorated interior and some of the best acoustics in Europe. Opera season lasts from September to the end of June and most days includes several performances. In addition to the opera, this is the home of the Hungarian National Ballet, with supplementary orchestral concerts commonplace too. Guided tours are available in English. Address: Andrássy Avenue 22, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 814 7100 Website: www.opera.hu

Theatres in Budapest

• Nemzeti Szinhaz (National Theatre)

Located on the banks of the Danube, the Nemzeti Szinhaz (National Theatre) is the city’s largest centre for theatrical productions. It mainly showcases Hungarian actors, writers and directors. Alongside classic shows, contemporary plays and adaptations of Hungarian literature are often found on the programme. Productions are in Hungarian, but for visitors that cannot speak the language, its garden and sculpture park are worth visiting too. Address: Bajor Gizi Park 1, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 476 6800 Website: www.nemzetiszinhaz.hu

• Palace of Arts

Opening in 2005, the Palace of Arts is Budapest’s latest cultural centre, featuring two concert halls and the Ludwig Museum. Its breathtaking Béla Bartók National Concert Hall, which has an interior reminiscent of a Gothic cathedral, hosts orchestras and chamber shows, while the smaller Festival Theatre is used for dance, theatre and music productions. The Ludwig Museum displays a collection of contemporary art, both Hungarian and international. Address: Komor Marcell útca 1, Budapest. Telephone: +36 1 555 3000 Website: www.mupa.hu

Budapest Food and Drink

Hungarian food is probably best known for its generous use of paprika, but its influences come from far and wide, including France, Turkey, other Central European countries and neighbouring Serbia. In addition to paprika; sour cream and garlic also feature widely in Hungarian cuisine. The most popular meat is generally pork, with chicken a close second. As Hungary is landlocked, fish do not play a large part in the Hungarian diet, although freshwater species such as carp are quite commonly used. Wine is taken seriously in Hungary, and the country’s many vineyards produce a wide range of distinctive wines that range from full-bodied reds made from the native Kékfrancos grape to rich, sweet whites such as Tokaj. There is a large choice of places to eat in Hungary that range from inexpensive snackbár or büfé (self-service establishments) to fine dining eateries. Cukrászda (patisseries), serving cakes and pastries, and kávéház (coffee shops) are also popular. Elegant Vienna-style coffee houses serving coffee and rich pastries are common in the capital. Gerbeaud, a refined but busy Art Nouveau institution, is Budapest’s most famous coffee house.

Food In Budapest

Many of Hungary’s most famous dishes rely on a generous dash of red paprika, although Hungarian goulash tends to be quite different from that served under the same name in Western Europe.

• Halászlé   A spicy soup made with freshwater fish and paprika.

• Gulyás    Hungarian goulash is a hearty beef, capsicum and paprika soup; Western goulash is called pörkölt or tokány.

• Gundel palacsinta   Pancake served with walnuts, raisins, lemon rind, chocolate sauce and rum.

• Paprikás csirke    Paprika chicken.

• Kolbász    Sausage spiced with paprika.

• Tyúkhúsleves  Chicken soup with vegetables and pasta

• Jókai bableves    kidney bean soup.

• Hortobágyi húsos palacsinta    ‘Hortobagy pancake’ – pork or chicken in a thin pancake and baked with paprika and sour cream.

• Galuska   Egg dumplings.

• Töltött káposzta   stuffed cabbage.

Drink In Budapest

Hungary has a wide range of very palatable home-produced wines as well as many different types of fruit brandy.

• Tokaji (strong dessert wine).
• Bikavér (meaning ‘Bull’s Blood’, a strong red wine).
• Pálinka (brandy) comes in barack (apricot), szilva (plum) körte (pear) and cseresznye (cherry) flavour.
• Sör (beer, mostly imported).
• Unicum (herb liqueur).
• Villány (good quality full-bodied red wine).
• Pezsgö  (sparkling wine like Champagne).
• Ásványviz (bottled fizzy mineral water).

WHERE TO STAY? WHICH NEIGHBOURHOOD

• Budapest’s historic centre, where you’ll find the former Royal Palace, the Matthias Church and the National Gallery, is Castle Hill, a kilometre long UNESCO Heritage Site. It’s ideal if you’re looking for charm and quiet, for cobbled alleyways and atmosphere, and for proximity to the main sights. We think this is the best place to stay in Budapest for families. The Royal Palace, area is where the original castle was built, and the buildings here are particularly grand, while the Old Town, is the bit once inhabited by commoners. It’s all gloriously beautiful architecturally, though. One, particularly charming, way of navigating this part of town is on the Sikló, a funicular railway built in 1870. Castle Hill is also where you’ll find the Fisherman’s Bastion, reminiscent of something from a Disney film with its with turrets and pointed towers, this is a lovely spot to visit – and you can also take in stunning views of the city from its hilltop location. Castle Hill is the only area we’re recommending in Buda, which is typically more residential, and less convenient than Pest.
• Crossing into Pest, and District V, or Downtown, is where many of Budapest’s best hotels and restaurants are located. It’s also where you’ll find plenty of this town’s main sights, including the boutique haven, Vörösmarty Square, St Stephen’s Basilica, the Chain Bridge, the Shoes on the Danube Memorial, Liberty Square and the Parliament Building. Inspired by the British Houses of Parliament, the Hungarian Parliament Building is grandiose neo-Gothic structure, set on the banks of the Danube, is utterly stunning inside and out. St Stephen’s Basilica is another architectural beauty, a 19th century parish church with a 3,500 foot neo-Renaissance dome. District V is also very walkable, and has good public transport connections, and it’s beautiful, with wide boulevards and elegant grand cafes.
• Terézváros is the next district across, number VI, and has the city’s main road, the Great Boulevard, and UNESCO listed Andrássy Avenue, running through it, between Heroes’ Square and the City Park. So it’s lively, with plenty of cafes, bars and restaurants, and upscale shopping. Head out of the centre of town, and this district can become quite residential too. Terézváros is also where you’ll find the Budapest Zoo & Botanical Gardens.
• District VII is Erzsébetváros, or Elizabeth Town, now a trendy nightspot, but once favoured by craftsmen and artists, and once a Jewish ghetto. So this is where you’ll find the Great Synagogue. Erzsébetváros is also a great place to stay or visit, if you’re interested in this city’s history, as it’s home to the House of Terror, a museum converted from the headquarters of the dreaded ÁVH secret police, and telling the stories of the atrocities committed between WWII and the 1956 Uprising. And it’s bohemian and hip: if you want craft beer, food trucks speakeasies and hipster cafes, this is the part of Budapest for you.
• District VIII, Józsefváros, or Joseph Town, has the National Museum and the peaceful and grand Kerepesi Cemetery. It’s the last of the central Budapest districts to be re-developed, and much of it is still happening now — keep a look out for the pockmark bullet holes dating from both WWII and the 1956 Uprising. There’s a burgeoning cafe and bar scene, and an arts scene too. This is a good choice if you’re looking for the best value places to stay in Budapest.

Wherever you choose as the best place to stay in Budapest for you, there’s a great public transport system of trams, underground and buses, so it’s not hard to get around. Saying that it’s very walkable too.