Cairo Travel Guide
Beacons of tourism since the dawn of history, both Egypt and its capital possess an enduring appeal. Just southwest of Cairo, a patch of Giza desert offers nothing less than the Seventh Wonder of the Ancient World in Khufu’s Great Pyramid, plus the iconic Sphinx.
Meanwhile, amongst the clutter of the Egyptian Museum’s bygones lies the breath-taking tomb of Tutankhamun, the original boy-king of bling. For an attraction of biblical proportions, there’s Coptic Cairo, home to some of the earliest Christians and many historic churches.
Yet, while ancient splendour is the main draw, many tourists miss what modern Cairo has to offer. With some 10 million inhabitants, this is the Arab world’s largest city. Baladi drinking dens, bustling markets and countless museums (all served by an impressive metro system) make engaging with locals a rewarding experience.
Few can have failed to notice the Egyptian protests that started in 2011 and brought about two revolutions in as many years. But rather than avoid the country’s defiant capital, there’s much to be gained from meeting the city at a historic crossroads. Demonstrations still regularly feature on Tahrir Square, but even they can make a fascinating daytime experience.
In spite of this, Cairo is generally calm and safe. But ‘calm’ is a relative word in this city. Locals’ lives are sound tracked by noisy traffic on notoriously congested roads, while central streets are often crowded with shoppers, diners and businessmen. Brace yourself for insistent offers of mint tea from salesman.
For an overview of the city, climb to the 12th-century citadel looming above the urban sprawl. Built by Salah Al-Din, Cairo was effectively governed from atop Mokattam Hill for the next 700 years. Before that, Cairo was a cornerstone of Islamic civilisation. As such, the old Islamic quarter has been proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Whenever you need a break from the cacophony of the city, it’s possible to sail down the Nile on a traditional felucca boat. The lifeblood of Egyptian civilisation for aeons, the river reminds that Cairo is known as the ‘Mother of the World’ for good reason.
Cairo has its roots in the ancient settlement of Memphis, now 24km (15 miles) southwest of the city. It was founded in 2,000 BC and ruled by King Menes who united Upper and Lower Egypt. In the 1st century, the Romans built the Babylon fortress on the Nile, the oldest structure in the city.
Cairo itself was established as the city of Fustat by the Fatimids in the 10th century. So began a period of huge construction of prominent landmarks, including Al-Azhar mosque. As Cairo was a key link on the east-west spice route, the market streets of Khan el-Khalili became a bustling centre of trade.
The 12th century brought Saladin, the first Sultan of Egypt, who commissioned many more important buildings. Then in the mid-13th century, the Mamaluks seized control of Egypt. Under them, Cairo became an important centre of Islamic learning.
The rising Ottomans took over from the Mamaluks in the 16th century, and with the rise of Constantinople as their capital, Cairo declined. The Black Death struck the city countless times, reducing the population by hundreds of thousands.
After resisting Napoleonic rule, Muhammad Ali Pasha founded the modern Egyptian state in the early 19th century, with social and economic reforms and huge construction ensuing. Broad boulevards and circular plazas inspired by Paris can still be seen around today’s Downtown Cairo.
The British used Egyptian debt as a pretext for occupying the country from 1882. Huge protests led to the declaration of independence in 1922, but colonial dominance continued until the Egyptian revolution of 1952. Under the iconic Nasser, Cairo developed into a modern metropolis with Egyptians from all over the country pouring in. It eventually became the largest city in the Islamic world, and one of the biggest in Africa.
In 2011, millions of protesters gathered in Cairo’s Tahrir Square during the Arab Spring, leading to the resignation of the dictator Hosni Mubarak. The quest for democracy has not been smooth since, with President Morsi removed by military coup in 2013.
When it was finished, the Great Pyramid of Giza was the tallest structure in the world for nearly 4,000 years.
Cairo’s Al-Azhar is one of the world’s oldest universities, dating back to the late 10th century.
Constructed by Saladin, Cairo Citadel was the seat of Egyptian government between the late 12th century and the 1860s.
Cairo has a desert climate consisting of hot days and cool nights.
Spring (March to May) is one of the best times to visit Cairo, with pleasantly warm days and little chance of rain. The average temperature in April is 21°C (70°F). Time your visit with the Downtown Contemporary Arts Festival, which runs for three weeks throughout Spring and includes dance performances, music concerts and shows.
Summer (June to August) is hot and muggy. The pollution in Cairo is also at its worst. Day time temperatures can exceed 35°C (95°F). Keep sightseeing to early mornings and late afternoons.
Autumn (September to November) is pleasant, with warm days and cool nights. The great weather, fewer tourists and lower hotel rates make this another great time to visit Cairo.
Winter (December to February) is the high season, with temperatures reaching 20°C (68°F). Do pack some warm clothes, though, as temperatures can occasionally plunge to as little as 9°C (48°F).
Please note that during Ramadan, which happens in the ninth month of the Islamic calendar, many restaurants close during the day and some bars close for the entire month. Major festivals, like Eid ul fitr and Eid ul Adha, lead to flights, trains and buses getting booked up in advance
Getting around Cairo
As you’d expect from a conurbation as vast as Cairo, the city’s public transport is busy and often crowded. People hop on and off the buses even when they’re still moving. They’re nearly always packed too. Private microbuses or share taxis are another option, with passengers shouting to the driver when they want to disembark. By far the easiest way of getting around is by
El Ahram Subway Station
Address:
Beirut, El-Montaza, Heliopolis, Cairo.
Website: www.cairometro.gov.eg
Modern, air-conditioned and efficient, it has three lines which serve the length and breadth of Cairo. Metro Line 1 runs north to south from Helwan to Al-Marg via Tahrir, while Line 2 extends from Shubra Al-Kheima to both Cairo University and Giza. Line 3 runs across the north of the city linking Imbaba to Cairo International Airport.
Line 3 runs across the north of the city; ongoing work on the line will see more stations and connections open over the next few years, eventually linking Imbaba to Cairo International Airport.
The Metro offers a flat fare and the first two carriages are reserved for women, although there is little risk of harassment if women travel in other carriages. The Metro running times are: 05:15-00:30.
There are two types of taxis: The newer white or yellow metered variety ensure the meter is switched on:
Cairo limousine
Telephone: +20 10 9659 8333
Pink Taxi Egypt
Telephone: +20 12 7077 7760
Passengers are expected to know the fare in unmetered cabs rather than negotiate in advance. This can be difficult for new arrivals, so ask the advice of the hotel concierge, or other passengers if you have hailed a shared or unmetered taxi. Some taxi drivers offer guide services too.
Watching your taxi driver weave through dense traffic at top speeds is eye-watering enough without getting behind the wheel yourself. Though the honking and yelling of the chaotic roads are part of the city’s character, they can be overwhelming and dangerous for the uninitiated. Little attention is paid to road signs, while near misses are commonplace.
Although many Egyptians cycle, it would be madness for any visitor not used to Cairo traffic to consider doing the same.
Distance on the bike down
Address: Kasr Al Nile, Bab Al Louq, Abdeen, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 10 2020 7114
In partnership with Get Your Guide
Book popular activities in Cairo
Things to see in Cairo
Attractions
Dating back to the seventh century, the Hanging Church replaced another church here that was at least 300 years older. This makes it the oldest Christian place of worship in Cairo, and one of the oldest in the world. It takes its name from being suspended over the southern gate of a Roman fortress. Reached by a stairway that leads to the courtyard, the church’s beautiful interior features three barrel-vaulted aisles, altar screens of inlaid ivory and bone and an exquisite carved marble pulpit supported by 13 pillars representing Christ and his disciples.
Address: Kom Ghorab, Old Cairo.
Opening times: Daily 09:00-16:00.
Website:www.coptic-cairo.com
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: Yes
Situated in a lovely garden within the former Roman fortress of Babylon-in-Egypt, the Coptic Museum features Coptic art from the Christian era (AD300-1000). Among the highlights are the exquisite Coptic textiles, carved ivories, papyri (ancient paper) with text from the Gnostic gospels of Nag Hammadi, and Nubian paintings from the flooded villages of Lake Nassar. The ornate rooms are decorated with beautiful mashrabiyya (carved wood) screens, fountains and painted ceilings.
Address: Coptic Cairo, Mar Girgis Street, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 2362 8766
Opening times: Daily 09:00-17:00.
Website: www.egymonuments.gov.eg
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: Yes
Egypt’s main tourist attraction has long been the Giza Necropolis on the edge of Cairo. One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Great Pyramid is the oldest here, dating back to around 2550BC and the reign of Khufu. It is also the largest pyramid, originally standing 146m (479ft) high. Nearby are the pyramids of Khafre (Khufu’s son) and the considerably smaller Menkaure’s (his grandson). Meanwhile, the Great Sphinx watches over all. Once crowded with tourists, the site has been eerily quiet since the first revolution. A visit now brings with it the unusual privilege of having the pyramids practically to yourself.
Address: Al Haram, Nazlet El-Semman, Giza, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 2391 3454
Opening times: Daily 08:00-16:30.
Website: www.egymonuments.gov.eg
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: Yes
- Egyptian Museum of Antiquities
It’s necessary to venture close to the revolutionary hotbed of Tahrir Square in order to see one of the jewels in Cairo’s crown: the Egyptian Museum. Inside there are some 120,000 artefacts from the birth of Egypt, culminating in the Greco-Roman phase, and it’ll take the best part of a day to cover the whole museum. The highlight has to be the nearintact tomb of Tutankhamun, regarded as perhaps the most significant archaeological discovery in history. It’s full to brimming with intricate jewellery, and includes the stunning gold and gem-inlaid funerary mask.
Address: Midan Al-Tahrir, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 578 2448
Opening times: Daily 09:00-17:00.
Website: www.egyptianmuseumcairo.eg
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan
Covering 7,900 sq m (85,000 sq ft), this is one of the largest mosques in the world and the finest early Mamluk structure in Cairo. It was built between 1356 and 1363 and encompasses a stunning courtyard, four madrassas (theology schools) and a mausoleum flanked by huge doors. Visitors should go in the morning when the sun lights up the dark mausoleum.
Address: Islamic Cairo, El-Darb El-Ahmar, Cairo.
Opening times: Daily 08:00-17:00.
Website: www.egymonuments.gov.eg
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: Yes
Of all the mosques in Cairo, this one is unmissable. Completed in 879 AD, it is the oldest intact mosque in the city. The huge structure, built of mud-brick and wood, covers 2.4 hectares (6 acres). Its elegance is in its simplicity, with pointed arches the first of their kind. It is a unique example in Cairo of classical Islamic architecture inspired by Iraqi models, having been built by Ibn Tulin, who was sent to rule Cairo by the caliph of Baghdad. The views from the top of the spiral minaret are magnificent and don’t forget to tip the attendant who allows access.
Address: Islamic Cairo, Ibn Tulun Street, Cairo.
Opening times: Daily 09:00-16:00.
Website: www.egymonuments.gov.eg
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: Yes
Ringed by an important thoroughfare in the heart of downtown, Midan Al-Tahrir or ‘Liberation Square’ has been a symbol of protest since the Egyptian Revolution of 1919. Though tourists came here in the past largely for the Egyptian Museum, it’s now recognised across the world as the birthplace of Egypt’s 2011 revolution against Hosni Mubarak’s 30-year rule. It is now relatively quiet, though the situation can change quickly and it’s a good idea to keep abreast of the news if considering a visit. Though caution is advised and demonstrations should be avoided, the square is compelling for its graffiti, eclectic visitors from almost all walks of Egyptian life, and festival atmosphere on many afternoons.
Address: Downtown Cairo, Midan Al-Tahrir, Cairo.
Opening times: Daily.
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- The Citadel of Cairo – Citadel of Saladin
Little remains of Salah Al-Din’s original 12th-century palace but the mosques and palaces atop this limestone outcrop reflect 700 years of Cairo history. The fortifications were first built to repel the Crusaders and became the royal residence for sultans well into the 19th century. The Mohammed Ali Mosque, with its huge central dome and four semi-domes, towers over the city. The enclosure also contains the Mosque of al-Nasir, Yusuf’s Well and several small museums. The views over Cairo from the Citadel are outstanding.
Address: Privet Entrance Bel Kalaa, Al Abageyah, El Khalifa, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 2512 1735
Opening times: Daily 08:00-16:30.
Website: www.egymonuments.gov.eg
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: Yes
Some of the most impressive architecture of the Fatimid period can be found in Al-Azhar. The district is demarked by colossal gates and square towers – remnants of the old enclosure walls. Beyond them are five important mosques, including the Mosque of Al-Hakim and the Mosque of Al-Azhar. The latter was erected in AD970 as the crowning achievement of the new Fatimid city, and its madrassa is regarded as one of the world’s oldest educational institutions, drawing learners from across the Islamic world. It finds an interesting counterpoint in the severe, military style of Al-Hakim, which was completed in 1013.
Address: El-Darb El-Ahmar, El Gamaliya, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 2391 3454
Opening times: Daily.
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: Yes
This huge necropolis is divided into the northern and southern cemetery on either side of the Citadel and contains some outstanding Islamic architecture. The finest monuments are in the northern cemetery. The Mosque of Qaytbey, a Mamluk ruler, has an intricately carved dome, the finest in the Muslim world, while the splendidly decorated interior surrounds a peaceful courtyard. An ancient tradition sees Cairenes come to visit and often picnic at the graves of their relatives, while dozens of ‘tomb squatters’ have made this their home. It’s a fascinating sight, but visitors are advised to stick to the main streets in daylight hours, and not to visit alone.
Address: Islamic Cair, Taha Nob, Shibin el-Qanater, Al-Qalyubia.
Telephone: +20 10 0141 7757
Opening times: Daily.
Website: www.introducingegypt.com
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: Yes
Reopened in 2010 after a seven-year closure for vital refurbishment, this museum houses one of the world’s finest collections of Islamic art, dating from the seventh to the 19th centuries. The rooms contain carved woodwork and columns, mosaic fountains, metalwork and other architectural exhibits salvaged from crumbling mosques and mausoleums throughout Egypt.
Address: Bab Al-Khalq, Port Said Street, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 2390 1520
Opening times: Daily 09:00-17:00.
Website: www.miaegypt.org
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
The ancient gate of Bab Zuwayla is all that remains of the Fatimid city of Al-Qahira’s southern frontier. Executions took place here in Mameluke times but in the 19th century it acquired a happier reputation when a local saint, Mitwalli, performed miracles near the gate. To this day, people seeking healing nail a lock of hair or piece of clothing to the gate in hopes of receiving divine aid. Rising above the gate are the minarets of the Mosque of Al-Muayyad, which offer some of the finest panoramic views in Cairo from the top. The mosque contains a shady courtyard and the mausoleum of the Sultan Al-Muayyad and his son, who began building the mosque in 1415.
Address: Darb Al-Ahmar, Al-Muizz li-Din Allah, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 2391 3454
Opening times: Daily 24 hours.
Website: www.archnet.org
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: Yes
Tourist Offices
Address: Abbasia, Street, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 10 6221 0977
Opening times: Sun-Thurs 09:00-14:30.
Website: www.egypt.travel Things to do in Cairo
- Cruise down the Nile on a traditional felucca boat
In spite of its many attractions, crowded Cairo can become a little maddening after a few days. A trip down the Nile on a traditional felucca boat is the perfect antidote. Gliding serenely along the fabled river, you’ll wonder why you haven’t been travelling like this from the beginning. Some boats offer live entertainment of music and dancing, but the refined will enjoy wining and dining on the Nile courtesy of
Four Seasons Hotel Cairo
Address: CORNICHE EL NIL, Qasr El Nil, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 2791 7000
Website: www.fourseasons.com those wanting an authentic experience should pick up a public boat from by the Ramses Hilton.
- Explore Egypt’s underwater bounties
The waters off Cairo make for great diving. If you require some training before heading off to the open seas,
Dive Mania
Address: 18 218 street, Degla, Maadi, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 11 0116 0503
Website: www.divemaniaeg.com is the first PADI diver centre in Cairo.
It teaches PADI courses, organises live-aboard diving trips and has equipment for sale or rent.
- Learn to cook like a local
Time to brush up on your shish taouk (a traditional shish kebab)?
The cooking school
Address: Midtown mall, New Cairo 1, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 11 0077 6836
Website: www.thecookingschooleg.com
Cooking classes here teach pupils how to dish up everything from a simple fattoush salad (a delicious pitta and vegetable salad), to an om ali and kunafa pudding with mango that will wow your mates. Italian, American, Thai, Mexican and Chinese cooking classes are also available.
- Ride a horse around the pyramids at Giza
A canter around the pyramids at Giza is a must. There are plenty of horses at the entrance, but for quality of steed, try and find decent stables.
FB Stables
Address: Sharia Gamal Abdul Nasser.
Telephone: +20 10 6507 0288
Website: www.fbstablesgiza.co.uk come highly recommended.
They have English speaking guides and offer fantastic desert excursions. For lengthy tours,
iRide Egypt – Horseback Riding
Address: Egypt, Giza, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 10 3308 0029
Website: www.irideegypt.com organise horseback trips to Sakkara pyramids.
- Tee off at a championship golf course
It’s something of a relief to see a great swathe of green in Cairo. The city’s golf courses, usually affiliated with top hotels, are open to non-members. By far the best for location is the pyramid-side 18-hole course at;
Marriott Mena House
Address: 6 Pyramids Road Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 3377 3222
Website: www.marriott.com which also offers good rates on golf lessons.
Non hotel guests are welcome. A little further out, luxury country club
Katameya Heights Golf & Tennis Resort
Address: Gamal Abdel Nasser, St, New Cairo 1.
Telephone: +20 2 2758 0517
Website: www.katameyaheights.com has an 18-hole championship course with PGA qualified professionals.
Cairo tours and excursions
Cairo tours
In busy, traffic-filled Cairo, there are few obvious organised walking tours, and none in the blistering summer months. Choose either personalised tours through some of Cairo’s cultural organisations, or arrange official guides for individual tours through hotels and tourist offices, at a fixed hourly rate (plus a tip). This can include a personal guide around Giza, Islamic Cairo, or even a generic tour of Cairo’s museums.
Unofficial guides approach people in the street and range from the abysmal to excellent. Use personal judgement as rogue guides have fake ID cards. Check also that their English is competent. If unsure, decline politely but firmly. Be cautious, too, of people asking you where you are going and then telling you that it is closed – often a preamble to being steered to a friend’s shop instead.
One recommended walking tour company is the
Cairo Walking Tours
Address: El-Tahrir Square, Ad Dawawin, Abdeen, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 11 1222 7350
Nearly every hotel can offer the standard range of bus tours for guests, usually including the highlights of the Egyptian Museum, Khan al-Khalili bazaar and Giza’s Pyramids. Safari Egypt offers full day sightseeing tours of the city with professional guides and many language options.
Telephone: +20 2 2705 7586
Website: www.safariegypt.com
Several top-end hotels run nightly Nile dinner cruises on their own boats. Local travel agents such as Memphis Tours collectand return to your hotel, for a two-hour evening dinner cruise with belly dancing and traditional music.
Telephone: +20 2 402 0440
Website: www.memphistours.net
Cairo excursions
During the summer, many take the 225km (140 miles) journey northwest from Cairo to the Mediterranean port of Alexandria. Named after Alexander the Great, the attractive city is filled with Greek heritage and offers a relaxed European ambience. Its most famous sight is the world famous Bibliotheca Alexandria, a stunning piece of contemporary architecture, housing museums, planetarium and regular cultural events.
The landmark Citadel of Qaitbai was built in 1479 allegedly on the site of, and from the stones of, the Lighthouse of Pharos, one of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world. Other noteworthy attractions include the marble Kom al-Dikka (Roman Amphitheatre) and delicate mosaics. Hourly trains from Cairo take around three hours to reach Alexandria; buses take a little longer.
Telephone: +20 10 2230 6132
Website: www.cairotoalexandriadaytrip.com
Egypt’s largest camel market takes place just outside the village of Birqash (pronounced Bir’ash), approximately 35km (22 miles) northwest of Cairo. Each Monday and Friday morning, camel traders from all over Egypt and as far afield as Sudan, sell their beasts in a hubbub of sights, sounds and smells – a unique experience. Visitors have to pay an admission fee, and extra for a camera (a must). The most convenient way to make the 45-minute journey is by taxi. Visitors should negotiate a waiting time: most drivers will be happy to wait or come back at a pre-arranged time. It is also possible to travel by public transport.
Saqqara is about 24km (15 miles) south of central Cairo, and easily reached by bus, rented taxi, coach excursion or even by horse or camel. However, a full day should be allowed as Saqqara alone extends for a good 7sq km (3sq miles). This is where the first pharaohs were buried, although they are now overshadowed in importance by the sites of the Great Pyramids and the Valleys of the Kings and Queens in Luxor. There are several pyramids here and, because much archaeological work still remains to be done at Saqqara, it may even be that one day it becomes Egypt’s most important historical site.
Pyramid of Djoser
Address: Pyramid of Djoser, Badrshein, Giza.
Website: www.egymonuments.gov.eg
Memphis is about 3km (2 miles) away from Saqqara. This ancient capital is known as the oldest known royal city in the world. Founded in 3100BC during the 1st Dynasty, it was the royal capital for 500 years and remained occupied in all for a total of 4,000 years. Sadly, not much remains today of what was one of the grandest cities in the world, but the small museum and scattering of statues is a good appetiser for the more stunning remains at Saqqara.
Saqqara Necropolis
Address: Badrshein, Giza, Cairo.
Website: www.egymonuments.gov.egShopping in Cairo
Shopping in Cairo can be great fun. The sales tactics can feel a little overbearing at first, but haggling is a way of life here, especially in the bazaars, and worth experiencing.
Khan el-Khalili has streets dedicated to specific trades, for example the Street of Coppersmiths for engraved brass trays, and Souq as-Sagha. The sidestreet behind Al Azhar Moque is filled with bookbinders, where hand-bound leather notebooks or photo albums can be customised at Abdel-Zaher Bookshop, 31 El-Sheikh Mohamed Abdou St.
Zamalek is where the smart locals head for stylish fashions and top jewellery. A little further out, spacious Dokki, easily accessed by the underground, has smart boutiques.
King of souks is Khan el-Khalili in Islamic Cairo, a world-famous attraction. Labyrinthine alleyways cram tiny shops with goodies including silks, spices, jewellery, hand-made leather shoes and perfumes. On its outskirts, Sharia Muski packs in household essentials like towels, toys and crockery. Stallholders will try to grab your attention, but it’s easy to politely decline and walk on by.
Malls aren’t a huge part of Cairo’s shopping scene, but The First Mall, 35 Sharia Giza, houses over 60 designer boutiques, including brands such as Prada, Dior and Yves St Laurent. Catering for middle-class Cairenes, mega mall Citystars, Aly Rashad St, Heliopolis, houses international names such as Miss Sixty.
Normal opening hours are Monday to Saturday 09:00-22:00, closing in summer between roughly 12:30-16:00. Tourist shops often stay open later. During Ramadan, stores may close for Iftar (breaking the fast) and stay open later in the evening.
Little shops selling miniature alabaster pyramids and rolls of papyrus can be found throughout Cairo. Other popular souvenirs include toy camels, traditional crafts of hand-blown glass, jewellery and traditional perfume oils. Not all sellers are out to swindle with poor products. Oum El Dounia on 3 Talaat Harb, for example, is known for Bedouin jewellery and unusual trinkets. Since the revolution, this notorious shop has been rolling out a range themed around the nearby Tahrir Square.
General Sales Tax in Egypt currently stands at 13% on commodities, though this is unlikely to be a factor when shopping in bazaars where haggling and cash payments are de rigueur.
Restaurants in Cairo
Frequented by locals as well as visitors, some of Cairo’s best restaurants are found in the international hotels. Food varies from Middle Eastern-style grilled meats and shawarma (a form of kebab), to more Mediterranean and European options. Prices tend to be low, at least by western standards. The Cairo restaurants below have been hand-picked by our guide author and are grouped into three pricing categories:
Expensive (over EGP300)
Moderate (EGP100 to 300)
Cheap (up to EGP100)
These Cairo restaurant prices are for a three-course meal for one, including half a bottle of house wine or equivalent, tax and service. Tipping at 10% is normal, unless a service charge has already been added to the bill.
Expensive
- Khan El-Khalili Restaurant & Naguib Mahfouz Coffee Shop
Cuisine: Egyptian
In the middle of the sprawling market streets, this traditional coffee shop is named after Egypt’s Nobel prize-winning novelist, who set many of his works in this area. Traditional musicians play most evenings; try for a table in the front section. It serves traditional Egyptian cuisine but you could just come for a juice and fabulous Om Ali, the national’s beloved dessert – a rich pudding made from sweet bread, dried fruit, nuts and cream.
Address: Khan El-Khalili, 5 El Baddistan Lane, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 2590 3788
Cuisine: French
The view of the sunset from the Grand Hyatt’s 40th floor cocktail lounge is surpassed only by the restaurant a floor above, with Cairo spread out at your feet like a tapestry of light. Suitable for a romantic intimate dinner for two, with tables set around a central platform, the restaurant offers inspiring French haute cuisine.
Address: Corniche el Nil, Abdulaziz Al Saud, Old Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 365 1234
Website: www.grandniletower.com
Cuisine: Indian
Thought to be Egypt’s finest Indian restaurant, and located in the Mena House Oberoi hotel overlooking the Pyramids, the cuisine is North Indian, with kebabs and rich, creamy curries a speciality. Décor is traditional Indian, with classical musicians playing nightly.
Address: 6 Pyramids Road, Al Haram, Giza, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 10 6881 7727
Website: www.marriott.com
Cuisine: Egyptian
If you’re looking for delicious authentic Egyptian food and a spectacular view of the Nile, Zitouni is the place to go. Found within the Cairo Four Seasons Hotel, this traditional and elegantly decorated restaurant offers a range of local specialties from mezzes to grilled dishes, with an impressive seafood buffet on Thursdays and a spectacular Egyptian brunch on Fridays. And the best thing is, it’s open 24-hours a day, so you can always satisfy your cravings for Egyptian cuisine.
Address: Cairo Governorate, Corniche El Nil, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 2791 6877
Website: www.fourseasons.com
Moderate
Cuisine: International
The legendary Café Riche traces its origins back to 1908. For years, it was favoured by literary stars and cultural movers, before falling into decline in later life. The café and restaurant was reopened in 2000 and thanks to a painstaking restoration it has successfully recovered its previous glory. The coffee is good, as are the platters of grilled meats. But most of all, Café Riche is worth a visit for its rich history.
Address: Downtown Cairo, 17 Talaat Harb, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 10 0604 2990
Cuisine: French
Classic French cuisine with a twist served in a sharp hotel eatery offering Nile River views. It’s not only renowned for culinary excellence, but the location and chic décor can’t be beaten.There’s even a menu of fruity sheesha pipes. Unbeatable on summer nights.
Address: Semiramis InterContinental, Cornich, El Nile, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 2798 8000
Website: www.ihg.com
Cuisine: Traditional
Traditional dishes served in a buzzing rooftop eatery & bar with city-and-Nile views. Crimson is a rooftop bar and grill that is influenced by the red shades we get to witness during the magical hour of sunset in Zamalek by the Nile front. The Chef creates divine combinations.
Address: former Montazah St, Kamal Al Tawil, Zamalek, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 12 7505 5555
Website: www.crimsoncairo.com
Cheap
Cuisine: Egyptian
The best place to sample the traditional dish koshary – a mix of rice, lentils, pasta and fried onions – this is the place for an informal fill up where diners eat on tin plates. For those chasing the real Cairene experience, it’s filled with locals, too.
Address: 26 El-Shaikh Marouf, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 2577 5935
Cuisine: Egyptian
Those looking for more down-to-earth dining without sinking to the poor quality of some of the city’s street food should try Felfela. Despite being in the heart of endlessly bustling downtown, the restaurant provides a tranquil respite from its surroundings. Make sure you try koshary, a traditional dish made up of rice, chickpeas, lentils, and tomatoes, which is fried in onion and garlic, and delicious.
Address: 15 Hoda Shaarawi Street, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 2395 5557
Website: www.felfelaegypt.com
If you’re crying out for a slice of pizza or a thick sandwich of cold cuts, this Italian-style bistro chain is a real institution. Good for kids and party goers, it’s open 24 hours, and as good for a full evening meal as a coffee and slab of chocolate cake.
Address: Block 12, 26th of July Corridor, First Al Sheikh Zayed, Giza.
Telephone: +20 10 2875 9893
Website: www.maisonthomas.netCairo Nightlife
Cairo is even livelier at night than during the day, and locals always know how to enjoy themselves. Alcohol isn’t a huge part of social life, but areas like Zamalek are popular with partygoers. In many venues, the distinction between bar, restaurant and club is a little blurred. Many locals head to a venue for a dinner around 1000, after which the lights dim and music gets louder for the bar to kick in. Bear in mind though that discos and bars close by midnight at the latest – only those with a tourism licence can remain open later.
The political upheaval since 2011 has, of course, affected Cairo’s nightlife somewhat. A curfew (after the removal from power of President Morsi) brought an end to much of the live music and revelry that were previously mainstays of the city. While some restrictions remain in place, most have now been lifted and Cairo’s energetic nightlife is beginning to return to normal.
Baladi (literally ‘people’s’) bars have long been popular, with many clustered around Downtown Cairo, especially around Midan Orabi. Is a good guide to local bars. Although safe, women visiting alone may feel uncomfortable in these male-dominated environments.
Otherwise locals head to traditional ahwas (coffeehouse) to smoke shisha and drink strong Arabic coffee. Families bring their young children out to while away the evening on soft drinks, especially around Midan Al-Hussein in Islamic Cairo or shopping streets such as Talat Harb.
Cultural centres dot the city with varied programmes incorporating lectures, films, music, exhibitions and other cultural events. A good source of information is the English-language edition of
Al-Ahram Weekly
Website:
www.weekly.ahram.org.eg
The best way to buy tickets is from a hotel concierge or a local travel agency.
Bars in Cairo
This popular pub is one of the best haunts in the city for sampling Cairo’s baladi drinking culture. Evoking an old English tea rooms, with high ceilings and peeling yellow paint, it’s packed every night with a an eclectic crowd of young Egyptians and older intellectual-types knocking back bottles of Egyptian Stella, first brewed here in 1897.
Address: 2 Off Bab El Louq St, El Falaky Sq, Abdeen, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 2392 0397
Website: www.mantiqti.cairolive.com
Tucked away down a quiet side street, this split-level bar offers an informal, mainly vegetarian, ground-floor restaurant, combined with a first floor, lively bar with a DJ, which attracts young locals and wealthy students.
Address: 5 El, Sayed El-Bakry, Zamalek, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 2738 0080
A down-to-earth bar also serving hearty food and meze, this smoky and cosy place has a good mix of locals and foreigners of all ages sipping whisky and cold beer.
Address: 28 Sharia Shagaret el-Dor, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 2735 0972
Live music in Cairo
This popular club, packed at weekends, offers a sophisticated mix of live jazz, blues, a DJ, drinks plus vegetarian food, in a dimly lit, smoke-filled environment.
Address: 197, 26th of July Street, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 10 6880 4764
Website: www.cairojazzclub.com
Cultural centre with nightly live performances of classical Arabic, contemporary Egyptian bands, festivals and dramas, housing five separate stages. A real Cairo gem.
Address: Al Inshaa WA Al Munirah, El Sayeda Zeinab, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 12 2112 4980
Website: www.egyptmusic.org
Dance in Cairo
- Sheraton Cairo Hotel & Casino
Dance isn’t a major art form but the top hotels put on belly dancing evenings for their guests, usually with dinner. This can be enjoyed in Las Vegas-style productions at several international hotels and on some of the dinner boats run by the hotels.
Address: Charles de Gaulle, Dokki, Giza, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 3336 9800
Website: www.marriott.com
- Wekalet El Ghouri Arts Centre
Sufi dancing, more commonly known in the West as the dance of the whirling dervishes, can be seen on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday evenings at the Ghouri Caravansary. Very popular with tourists.
Address: off Al-Moaiz St, 3 Mohamed Abdou Street, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 10 6000 5479
Music and Dance in Cairo
The city’s main venue for drama, dance, film and music is located in the National Cultural Centre on Gezira Island. Boasting some of the best acoustics and facilities in the Middle East, it has a year-round programme of opera, classical concerts, ballet and dance from national troupes. Aida, Verdi’s classic opera, was specially written for this venue. For concerts in the main hall, men must wear a jacket and tie.
Address: Gezira St, Zamalek, Cairo.
Telephone: +20 2 2739 0188
Website: www.cairoopera.orgCairo Food And Drink
Food In Cairo
Koshary is a national dish and one of Cairo’s most famous street foods. It has a base of rice and macaroni and is mixed with lentils or chickpeas. Vinegar and tomato sauce are added to it. It is then garnished with fried onions. It is a simple traditional food that is considered to be vegan heaven. Koshary is related to Mediterranean cuisine, but the dish here uses local lemon sauce, which gives it a different and unique taste.
Hawawshi is another traditional dish and famous street food in Cairo, which is a mix between a pie and a sandwich. It is prepared by stuffing pita bread with minced meat and is flavoured with peppers, onions, or pine nuts. The sandwich is roasted in a wooden oven so that it becomes extremely crispy. It is generally served with pickled vegetables (torshi) and is spicy.
One of the best foods in Cairo is Mahshi which means ‘stuffed. It is veggies stuffed with rice mixture. Vegetables like aubergines, marrows, peppers, cabbage leaves, and grapevine leaves are stuffed with combinations of spiced rice, minced meat, and pine nuts. It is vegetarian food, but the meat could be used as well. Besides using veggies, leafy greens (like kale, chard, and lettuce) can also be used for stuffing. The mahshi in Cairo is cooked in broth.
If you want a luxurious meal, you must try this delicious dish of Cairo for special occasions. Hamam Mahshi is a roasted pigeon. The birds are marinated and stuffed with a mixture of wheat or rice, onions, cinnamon, cumin, and nuts and then grilled over a wood charcoal fire. Be careful while eating the small and thin bones of pigeons, as they might cut your tongue and cheek muscles from inside if you eat fastly.
Mesakaa, is a layered and baked eggplant-based dish that includes meat and sometimes béchamel sauce. However, it can be made purely vegan too. The eggplant is fried, and the whole dish is baked. It is then assembled by layering the eggplant with a tomato sauce and is usually served with rice. It does taste like an exotic version of lasagne.
Keshk is a white soup made of fermented bulgur wheat in sour milk or yoghurt, which is then formed into balls and dried. Then these balls are taken, soaked in water, separated with hands, and dropped into boiling broth. Afterwards, the flour dissolved in water is added and stirred until we get something like pudding. This dish tastes creamy and can be served with cooked chicken and white rice. It is a perfect soup for winter.
Are you a fan of Pizza? Then you have to try the Egyptian rendition of Pizza. Feteer Meshaltet (cushioned pies) is an Egyptian layered pastry made up of thin layers of dough and ghee with an optional filling. The optional fillings can be both sweet and savoury. Some options for sweet fillings are cheese, coconut, mahalabiya, malban, Nutella, or chocolate, while savoury fillings can be ground beef, sausage, etc. The feteer is generally soaked in honey and spread with jam or cheese. Another option is just to sprinkle it with powdered sugar.
If you are in Cairo, you must try this bean stew dish. It is prepared with fava beans and flavoured with cumin, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, and onion and served with bread, tahini, and salads. It is one of the popular dishes of Cairo served in restaurants and by street vendors. Ful Medames is usually eaten as breakfast.
- Egyptian Falafel (Taamiya)
Egyptian falafel (also known as taamiya) is cooked with beans and herbs with a bright green centre and a brown deep-fried exterior. It combines fava beans with chopped cilantro, parsley, white onion, garlic, and leek. Another option to garnish it with is Sesame seeds. Falafel is usually eaten with tahini – a vinegary sauce, bread, and pickles. It is a breakfast meal.
Shawarma is one of the most famous comfort street foods in Cairo. It is slices of meat carved from a slowly revolving skewer and is served with bread, salads, and sauces. Traditionally it was made with mutton or lamb, but it can also be made with chicken, turkey, beef, or veal.
Molokhia is a leafy soup served with rice, chicken, or rabbit. The broth is packed with chopped leafy greens and a bit of garlic. Many use rice and meat in the soup accompanied by lemon or lime. It is generally eaten cooked and not raw and is frequently turned into soup or stew. You can also add some bread.
This is one of the most famous foods in the Middle East, but the Cairo fatteh is delicious and made differently. It is a rice dish with fried pieces of bread, garlic, lamb, beef, and tomato sauce. Fatteh is a traditional Egyptian food to celebrate any occasion.
Who would want to miss a chance to eat Kebab and Kofta in Cairo? Moreover, there are varieties of kebabs to choose from. Kofta are meatballs made from lamb or minced beef and flavoured with spices. They are then rolled onto a skewer and barbecued over coals. Kebabs are chunks of beef cooked over coals on a skewer. Bread, dips, and veggies are also served with them.
This food was originally made with water buffalo liver and you must give it a try. The chopped liver is first marinated in a spicy sauce and then sautéed with peppers, chillies, and onions. Afterwards, it gets stuffed into a long roll and drizzled with tahini sauce.
Halabessa/Halabisa is a very well-known Egyptian Chickpea soup. It is served with lemon, mostly hot during the winter season. It is nutritious, hearty and comforting. People generally call this soup snack soup since it is a savoury drink served in a glass cup with a spoon and lemon wedge.
Delicious, circular and sesame topped bread, Simit is a popular food in Cairo. This looks like a cross between a bagel and a pretzel and is usually served with a hard-boiled egg. It tastes like lightly sweetened crusty bread with a very pronounced sesame flavour.
If you love desserts, then this is a perfect choice for you. Om Ali (Ali’s mother) is a bread pudding made of pastry blended with nuts, raisins, coconut, cinnamon, cream and plenty of sugar. It is much lighter and milkier than the European or American version.
This famous Turkish dessert is also available in Cairo with some alterations. You mustn’t miss this. It consists of baked layers of filo dough filled with crushed nuts and topped with sharbat or sweet syrup. It is extremely juicy and sweet.
Kunafa is a famous Middle Eastern dessert that is prepared just like Baklava. But it is much crispier because of its layers which are usually topped with a lot of grounded pistachios and makes the food look green. The spun pastry, kataifi, is soaked in a sweet, sugar-based syrup known as attar and layered with cheese, clotted cream, pistachio, or nuts. This is available at any local bakery in Cairo.
If you love extra sugar and creaminess, basbousa will be your top choice. It is a crumbly cake baked and topped with sharbat. The semolina batter is first baked in a sheet pan, and then orange flower water, rose water, or simple syrup can be added to sweeten it before cutting it into diamond shapes or squares.
Drink In Cairo
Tea is Egypt’s national drink, while coffee is part of the traditional welcome. Karkadeh is a traditional drink made from boiling dried red hibiscus flowers, the water is then chilled. Sugar is added and this drink can also be enjoyed hot as herbal tea.
If you are a coffee fanatic, ahwa is the perfect place to experience the Cairene culture. The traditional cafes are filled with the smoke of shishas. Also, ahwa’s are the best place to meet new people.
Sahlab is hot milk mixed with pure orchid root powder. It takes less than 2 minutes to get ready, but you will be amazed by the nutty toppings and extra secret ingredients added to it. The toppings include cinnamon, shredded coconut, crushed pistachio, and maybe even some raisins, banana, or strawberries. Also there are:
- Aseer Asab or sugarcane drink
- Karkade red hibiscus drink
- Lime juce
- Fruit-cocktail drink
- Juice of mahalel
- Homus el-shaem winter drink
- Dates with milk
Despite religious restrictions and conflicting views on alcohol after the Muslim conquest of Egypt, the consumption of beer did not cease, and it still remains the most popular alcoholic beverage in the country by far, accounting for 54 percent of all alcohol consumption.
Although beer and wine were the main types Ancient Egyptian drink the wealthy would also drink fruit juices and milk. Water was not considered clean as the Nile was filled with bacteria from waste and excrement.