Cologne

Cologne Travel Guide

• About Cologne

Vibrant Cologne (Köln) may be famous for its awe-inspiring cathedral, but its atmospheric pubs showcase a city in love with life and certainly knows how to have a good time. Leaving the main station, the unmissable sight that greets all new arrivals is the towering twin spires of the Dom. Cologne’s cathedral was once the world’s tallest building, and the UNESCO World Heritage Site remains Germany’s most-visited monument. Its silhouette, combined with the curves of the adjacent Hohenzollern Bridge, are the symbols that define the city. Cologne’s art comes in many forms, from Roman mosaics and impressive stained-glass windows to world-class art museums featuring Andy Warhol, Roy Liechtenstein and Pablo Picasso. Then there’s the classic appeal of the Old Town, with its narrow streets and houses painted in pastel shades. While much of it had to be rebuilt following WWII, the atmospheric beer gardens and unhurried joie de vivre are just as romantic as parts of Paris or Rome. For children, the city has some of Europe’s best zoos, while the highlight for countless adults are Cologne’s Brauhäuser, brewpubs that serve local Kölsch beer. Each of these is a sight to behold, as bartenders spin glasses around like battle-weary magicians, waiters marking beer mats to keep track of who had what and managers ring up sales with antique cash registers in the corner. When it comes to food, there are traditional waiters in white shirts and leather waistcoats serving ham knuckle or bratwurst with sauerkraut. But Cologne’s culinary horizons don’t end there – they also include Michelin-starred restaurants serving French and Asiatic fusion flavours. Though Catholicism flourishes here, Cologne is certainly not a place for puritanical restraint. The city is famous for the six-day street carnival known as the “Crazy Days” taking place in the days running up to Ash Wednesday. It’s also an energetic open-minded place, and its Pride parades are some of the best attended in Germany. Last, but by no means least, the city also has a chocolate museum, taking pride of place on the Rhine. Now Cologne is a city that has its priorities sorted.

• Cologne History

That Cologne reinvented itself after being bombed to near oblivion in WWII is a huge testament to the resilience of the human spirit. Yet the history of Cologne extends further back than the dark days of the 20th century of course. The city began life as a Roman colony (hence its name) and was a key strategic site. Catholicism flourished in this part of the Roman Empire and in 1248 construction began on a mighty cathedral worthy of housing the relics of the Three Kings themselves. Work continued up to 1473 and yet still the Dom wasn’t done. Nevertheless, it was the world’s tallest building, attracting pilgrims from all over Europe. Work picked up again in the 19th century and the completion date is largely regarded as being 1880. Yet a lot had happened to Cologne during that time, most conspicuously the frequent skirmishes with the French. Following the French Revolutionary Wars, Cologne came under French control. The University of Cologne was closed and all local residents were granted French citizenship. Perhaps most notably, the French administration scrawled 4711 across the doorway to the Eau de Cologne household and inadvertently went on to launch an international brand. After the French came the Prussians, and following defeat in WWI, the British moved in for a while. Wartime fortifications were converted into green belts (Grüngürtel) and the University of Cologne was opened anew in 1919. By the end of WWII, Cologne was swept up into West Germany and began to thrive. The Old Town was repaired along with many Romanesque churches. Recently, Cologne has been making its name in the media game, founding an Academy of Media Arts, an International Film School and a Media Park over the last few decades. Excellent transport links have made the city one of the easiest places to access in western Germany.

• Did you know?

Almost 90% of the Old Town was destroyed during WWII. Launched in 1967, Art Cologne was the first international art fair of its kind. Five FIFA World Cup matches were played at Cologne’s RheinEnergieStadion in 2006.

• Weather in Cologne

Spring (March to May) is lovely in Cologne, particularly in May with temperatures averaging 13°C (55°F) and the weather is still relatively dry. Summer (June to August) starts off with plenty of rain so pack a raincoat with you. Temperatures often hover around 23°C (73°F) but highs of 30s°C (80s°F) are getting frequent. Autumn (September to November) is pleasant and visitors can make the most of beer gardens scattered around the city. The average temperature in September is 15°C (59°F). Winter (December to February) is mild, but with the sun setting at around 3.30pm, it can feel gloomy. Temperatures hover around 3°C (37°F) in December. Cologne is famous for its Carnival known as “Fastelovend”. In theory, the Carnival starts on November 11th at 11:11am, but the real “Crazy Days” do not start before Shrove Thursday which falls in either February or March. During “Crazy Days”, people dress up and participate in balls and parades, singing and dancing. As the city is aswarm with tourists, accommodation is hard to come by and prices are high.

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Things to see in Cologne

Attractions

• Wallraff-Richartz-Museum

The Wallraff-Richartz Museum houses more than 700 years of art. Its earliest work dates from around 1300 and takes visitors all the way through to Impressionism at the end of the 19th century. From Rubens, Rembrandt, van Dyck, and Tintoretto, to Renoir, Monet, Manet, van Gogh, Cézanne, Gauguin and Munch, it’s overwhelming to take it all in on a single visit, but there’s nothing to stop you from coming back. Address: Obenmarspforten (am Kölner Rathaus), Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 2212 1119 Opening times: Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00. Website: www.wallraf.museum Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathedral)

Unmissable in every sense, this behemoth is one of the most awe-inspiring buildings in the world and holds a number of treasures. Look out for the golden casket possessing the remains of the Magi, the ninth-century Gero crucifix, the Stefan Lochner triptych and the medieval stained-glass windows. Climb the 509 steps to the viewing platform of the 157m-high (515ft) South Tower for the dizzying views and down below look in the Schatzkammer (Treasury Chamber). Address: Domkloster 4, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 1794 0555 Opening times: Daily 06:00-20:00. Website: www.koelner-dom.de Admission Fees: Yes (Treasury Chamber and Tower). Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• NS Documentation Centre

For an unflinching look at the darkest period in German history, step inside the Nazi Documentation Centre. Housed inside the city’s former Gestapo headquarters, today the building tries to educate as well as commemorate the lives of those lost during the Third Reich. It’s designed to work both as an academic research centre and an exhibition centre for the public, with a mix of permanent and temporary exhibitions. Address: Appellhofplatz 23-25, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 2212 6332 Opening times: Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00. Website: www.museenkoeln.de Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Rathaus (Cologne Town Hall)

At first glance, the Town Hall looks like any other administrative building: staid and classical with stone figures representing nobility. In fact, more than 100 of them peer down, from kings and queens to saints and prophets. However, look more closely, and you’ll discover a few surprises: sculptures with their tongues hanging out and their trousers pulled down – even ones with genitals on display. Consider yourself warned. Once you’ve seen those, you may have a hard time concentrating on its Roman remains and impressive wooden carvings. Address: Rathausplatz 2, Cologne. Telephone: +49 22 12 210 Opening times: Daily 08:00-16:00. Website: www.stadt-koeln.de Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Cologne Zoo

With over 10,000 animals representing 800 species, you can find elephants, giraffes and yellow-breasted capuchin monkeys among giant anteaters and pink pelicans, before heading to the aquarium to see seahorses, crabs and some fearsome piranhas. Combine a trip here with a flying visit over the Rhine on the adjacent Seilbahn (cable car open mid-March to early November). Address: Riehler Strasse 173, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 567 99 100 Opening times: Daily 09:00-18:00. Website: www.koelnerzoo.de Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Römischer-Germanisches Museum

Cologne has (quite literally) been uncovering its Roman history in recent years until today. In 2016 two Roman graves with many valuable burial objects and skeletons were discovered by archaeologists. Even bars undergoing renovation have discovered a mosaic or two in the basement. This museum is built around a superbly preserved mosaic floor (the best of its kind in Northern Europe). You’ll also find the world’s largest collection of Roman glassware as well as some chic Roman jewellery in the permanent collection. Address: Roncalliplatz 4, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 2212 8094 Opening times: Wed-Mon 10:00-16:00. Website: www.roemisch-germanisches-museum.de Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Museum Ludwig

This world-class museum is full of eye-catching pop art icons from the late 20th century, including masterpieces from Andy Warhol (Marilyn Diptych and Campbell’s Soup Cans), Roy Lichtenstein and René Magritte, plus several hundred lesser works by Pablo Picasso. Dalí’s huge La Gare de Perpignan is worth the entrance fee alone. Exhibitions staged here represent modern art from around the world in a fresh, engaging fashion. Address: Heinrich-Böll-Platz, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 2212 6165 Opening times: Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00 (until 22:00 every first Thu of the month). Website: www.museum-ludwig.de Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Cologne’s Romanesque Churches

Cologne boasts 12 wonderfully atmospheric churches, which were originally built between the 10th and the mid-13th centuries, then rebuilt and restored after severe war damage. Don’t miss Groß St Martin, St Aposteln, St Gereon, St Maria in Lyskirchen, St Cäcilien (now home to the Schnütgen Museum of Sacred Art) and especially St Ursula with its amazing and macabre Goldene Kammer bone chapel and reliquary room. Address: Various, Cologne. Opening times: Various. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: No UNESCO: No

• Hohenzollern Bridge

What makes a railway and pedestrian bridge so special? Here it’s the expression of love. While love locks have swept across the world, in Cologne they’ve taken a life of their own. In most places, lovers place a single padlock on a bridge, inscribe their names upon it and throw the key into the river to symbolise their devotion towards one another. Cologne has put its own party style onto the proceedings, replacing padlocks with bicycle chains and fluffy heartshaped locks with racy looking handcuffs. Address: Hohenzollern Bridge, Cologne. Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Schokoladenmuseum (Chocolate Museum)

Set in a stunning building on the Rhine, this entertaining and educational exhibition (in English) studies every aspect of the history of chocolate and features a real working production line that culminates in a chocolate fountain. Real cocoa butter, vanilla and lecithin are on display as well as a tour through the tropics and a history lesson on the origins of the delicious snack. Address: Am Schokoladenmuseum 1a, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 931 8880 Opening times: Daily 10:00-18:00. Website: www.schokoladenmuseum.de Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

Tourist Offices

• Cologne Tourist Board (Kölntourismus)

Address: Kardinal-Höffner-Platz 1, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 346 430 Opening times: Mon-Sat 09:00-17:30. Website: www.cologne-tourism.com Opposite the cathedral, the tourist office stocks maps and brochures, and can offer advice on public transport and what to see. It can also help with hotel and tour reservations.

Tourist passes

If you plan on ticking off most of the sites, it may be worth investing in the KölnCard which gives reduced-price admission to most attractions and excursions as well as free travel on all public transport. The card is available from the tourist office or online.

Things to do in Cologne

• Cycle along the Rhine

Hire your own bike and explore the city’s narrow cobbled streets. If you’re feeling more adventurous, venture further afield along the Rhine and into Stadtwald forest and beyond. Speak to Radstation Website: www.radstationkoeln.de about getting yourself set up with some wheels.

• Discover the joys of the Olympics

Cologne’s Sport and Olympic Museum Telephone: +49 221 336 090 Website: www.sportmuseum.de  contains artefacts from ancient events through to modern day, and is an absolute must-visit for all Olympic history buffs. If all that makes you hungry, nip next door to the: Chocolate Museum  Telephone: +49 221 931 8880 Website: www.schokoladenmuseum.de

• Jump out of a plane. No really

Why walk, run or cycle when you can hurl yourself out of a perfectly functioning aeroplane? You can skydive over Cologne with; Sky-Fun  Telephone: +49 221 5006 7880 Website: www.sky-fun.de  either on your own if you have the experience or strapped to someone else in a tandem jump if you don’t.

• Open your heart on the Love Locks Bridge

Some people say ‘I love you’ with flowers, some do it by composing irregularly rhyming poetry. Cologne’s residents express everlasting commitment to their beloveds by snapping a natty padlock to the Hohenzollernbrücke, a bridge which overspans the river Rhine. So many padlocks have been snagged there, that they add an extra 22 tonnes of weight to the bridge.

• See the Pop Art at Museum Ludwig

If you know your Warhol from your Lichenstein Museum Ludwig Telephone: +49 221 2212 6165 Website: www.museum-ludwig.de  will get your art heart filled to burst. It’s home to one of Europe’s largest collections of modern art, as well as around 900 works from Picasso, making it the world’s third-largest after Paris and Barcelona.

Cologne tours and excursions

Cologne tours

• Boat tours

There is a raft of companies competing for your attention when it comes to arranging boat tours in Cologne. Whichever you choose, cruising along the Rhine lets you see the city from another perspective. Some allow you to hop off when you reach the zoo; others keep you on board for the whole trip. Recommended operators include Köln-Düsseldorfer (KD). Telephone: +49 221 208 8318 Website: www.dampfschiffahrt-colonia.de

• Walking tours

The tourist board offers a pretty comprehensive range of city walking tours. Themes focus on perfume and chocolate, crime stories, dizzying heights and, of course, the best places to gulp down Cologne’s favourite drink: Kölsch. Telephone: +49 221 346 430 Website: www.cologne-tourism.com

• Kölsch tasting tours

More than “just beer,” Kölsch forms a fundamental part of Cologne’s identity. Barmen swizzle the glasses in their hands to make it look like a magic trick and – unless you stop them – the drinks keep on coming. Notches or piles of beer mats are typically used to calculate the bar bill at the end of an evening. A self-guided app tour can tell you more about the drink – and the best places to quaff it. Website: www.gpsmycity.com

• Train tours

The Bimmelbahn can be a fun way to get about if you or the people you’re travelling with have any mobility issues. This brightly coloured tourist train snakes through Cologne, stopping off at the Chocolate Museum, the Zoo, the Botanical Gardens and the cable car. If you’re lucky enough to be here in the run up to Christmas, you can make the most of the festive cheer by catching the train to the Christmas Markets. Telephone: +49 221 709 9970 Website: www.bimmelbahnen.de

Cologne excursions

• Essen

Once an industrial powerhouse known principally for coal and steel, Germany’s ninth largest city has immersed itself in culture over the last few years, earning the title of European Capital of Culture in 2010. Highlights include a Van Gogh museum, a selection of crown jewels and the Zollverein Coal Mine, which has UNESCO World Heritage Status. In 2017 Essen was awarded with the title European Green Capital. There are many themed cycle routes in and around this very green city. Essen is less than an hour from Cologne by train. Telephone: +49 201 887 2333 Website: www.essen.de

• Bonn

Bonn, the former capital of the Federal Republic, is a popular and easy 27km (16-mile) side trip from Cologne taking 19 minutes by train. Highlights include the 18th-century old town hall, the market square and the Bonn Museum of Art. The city also celebrates its most famous son, Ludwig van Beethoven, and you can visit his former house. It is also noteworthy that Bonn is one of Germany’s carnival hotspots. Telephone: +49 228 775 000 Website: www.bonn.de

• Phantasialand

Phantasialand in Brühl, 17km (10 miles) from Cologne, is a theme park (open April to beginning of November and end of November to January). It has six theme areas, several roller coasters including the very long and fast roller coaster Taron and two hotels. Both the food and the shows take you into the fantasy versions of Asia and Africa and then off into Aztec and Mayan Mexico. Brühl itself is a pleasant town boasting two UNESCO World Heritage palaces. Telephone: +49 1806 366 200 Website: www.phantasialand.de

Shopping in Cologne

Shopping in Cologne covers pretty much all bases: you’ll find all the main chains here, both international and German, plus a sense of history and remembrance and then a sharp eye that’s looking towards the future. Design, innovation and character are prized possessions in Cologne – and the boutique shops reflect that. The city also has a passion for open air markets – something that only intensifies in the run up to Christmas. The abundant distribution of coffee shops and Brauhäuser also helps to relieve any potential shopping fatigue.

• Key areas

Most of central Cologne’s shops are between Rudolfplatz and the Dom. Rudolfplatz, Mittelstraße, Ehrenstraße, Pfeilstraße and Benesisstraße are home to smart clothes, jewellery, home furnishings and antique boutiques. Ehrenstraße leads into Breite Straße, another smart if not so exclusive street, as it heads back towards the Dom. The main shopping street is Schildergasse which runs parallel to Breite Straße, and leads on from Mittelstraße via Neumarkt, Hohe Straße and back to the Dom.

• Markets

The most dazzling markets in Cologne have to be the Christmas Markets that start sprouting up, drenched in lights, Glühwein and festive cheer each year. Christmas markets include the Alter Markt in the Old Town, the Cathedral Markt, the Märchenweihnachtsmarkt or fairy tale Christmas market on Rudolfplatz and the “alternative” market that stocks Moroccan moccasins at Stadtgarten. If you’re not in town at Christmas time, though, you can still find outdoor markets to keep you busy. Flea markets regularly sprout up at Alter Markt, while fresh food and veg stalls line Wilhelmsplatz from Mon-Sat.

• Shopping centres

Shopping centres with more than 100 shops are Köln Arcaden and Rhein-Center Weiden. Neumarkt itself is a smart shopping centre based around the Neumarkt Galerie mall. Cologne’s pedestrianised Schildergasse is one of Germany’s busiest shopping streets lined with national and international brand outlets. Look out for Renzo Piano’s stunning glass flagship building for the Peek & Cloppenburg clothing department store. Galeria Kaufhof (Cologne’s best general department store alongside Karstadt, on Breite Straße) is located in Hohe Straße, a popular shopping street, which hosts several fashion, multimeda, shoe, cosmetics and jewellery stores.

• Opening hours

Shops on Schildergasse and Hohe Straße are open Monday to Saturday 10:00-20:00; elsewhere 10:00-18:00 is the norm.

• Souvenirs

Cologne’s most famous product is Kölner Wasser (Eau de Cologne) with two shops worth noting. The Dufthaus 4711- Haus at Glockengasse 4711 is where you’ll find the fluid that spread the fame of the city across the world. Eau de Cologne was once the secret of a Carthusian monk before he gave the recipe away as a wedding present back in 1792. The newlyweds took this healing tonic, bottled it and sold it. When the French arrived in 1796, they renumbered the houses to strive for a sense of order. The Eau de Cologne shop was designated 4711 and a global brand was born. Today, you can stock up on both history and the pungent smell in the original shop and even drink from the fountain itself. Germany is one of the world’s leading processors of cocoa beans, a fact reflected in the mind-boggling array of top-quality chocolates in the shop of the Imhoff Stollwerck Chocolate Museum.

• Tax information

Refunds are available for those who reside outside the EU, although the rules can be complicated. For help, visit: Website: www.globalblue.com

Restaurants in Cologne

While it’s easy to find the typical sausage and sauerkraut meal in Cologne, the city has long since expanded its culinary repertoire beyond the German stereotype and into the international fare. Michelin stars decorate the landscape and menus include influences from France to the Far East. The Cologne restaurants below have been grouped into three pricing categories: Expensive (over €35) Moderate (€20 to €35) Cheap (up to €20) These Cologne restaurant prices are for a three-course meal per person and include taxes but not drinks. Note that credit cards are not generally accepted in Brauhäusern. Tipping is a matter of personal preference based on the quality of service and is usually around 5-10%.

Expensive

• Em Krützche

Cuisine: German Set in a 16th-century house on the river in the Altstadt, you can eat excellent local and regional cooking at Em Krützche in the same traditional panelled dining room in which Bill Clinton and Tony Blair have dined. Specialities include herring, sauerbraten (a beef pot roast), wild salmon and roast suckling pig. Desserts are deliciously over the top. Address: Am Frankenturm 1-3, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 258 0839 Website: www.em-kruetzche.de

• Ox & Klee

Cuisine: Modern European Michelin-starred Ox & Klee started out in 2010 with sauerkraut and bratwurst on the menu. While simplicity is still the focus, nowadays diners can choose from two tasting menus that aim take them on a mind-blowing culinary journey. Address: Kranhaus 1 Im Zollhafen 18, Cologne. Telephone: +49 163 852 8455 Website: www.oxundklee.de

• Taku

Cuisine: Asian fusion Armed with a Michelin star, this clean, modern restaurant combines tastes from across East Asia with the spirit of hospitality (as the name Taku implies). Chef Mirko Gaul combines traditions from Malaysia, Thailand, China, Vietnam and Indonesia to create a contemporary, experimental menu. Address: Trankgasse 5, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 270 3909 Website: www.taku.de

• maiBeck

Cuisine: Modern German Young Michelin-starred chefs, Jan Maier and Tobias Becker, are creating exquisite dishes at maiBeck, keeping them simple in order to allow their ingredients to come to the fore. Only the best-quality produce gets their nod of approval, and it’s that attention to detail that’s earned the Altstadt restaurant its growing reputation. Address: Am Frankenturm 5, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 9626 7300 Website: www.maibeck.de

Moderate

• Bei Oma Kleinmann

Cuisine: German Accurately named ‘at Grandma Kleinmann’s’, this rustic restaurant serves mostly traditional recipes in a charmingly old-fashioned setting. The main attraction is schnitzel which comes with a variety of side options, some more unusual than others like pineapple sauce or sardines and capers. Address: Züplicher Straße 9, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 232 346 Website: www.beiomakleinmann.de

• Haxenhaus

Cuisine: German Almost like a beautifully converted medieval hall, this 800-year-old house in the heart of the Atltstadt offers typical hearty Cologne cooking with homemade bratwurst and pork specialities. While the decor may err towards the cheesy, its food stays firmly where it belongs: in the realm of wild boar knuckle, dumplings and cabbage. Address: Frankenwerft 19, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 270 4990 Website: www.haxenhaus.de

Cheap

• Beirut

Cuisine: Middle Eastern If falafels, hummus and lamb koftas are your thing, this Middle Eastern restaurant ticks all the boxes. Serving a wide range of meat-free options in an informal setting, Beirut is a welcome refuge for vegetarians intimated by the onslaught of pork in the traditional Germanic taverns. Address: Buttermarkt 3, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 258 1539 Website: www.beirut-restaurant.de 

• Brauhaus Sion

Cuisine: German Sample hearty local Cologne specialities such as Reibekuchen (potato pancakes) and Sauerbraten (beef marinated in vinegar) in the restaurant of this traditional wood-panelled Brauhaus. The venue often provides a sounding board for local musicians, so depending on the schedule you could be in for a raucously good evening. Address: UnterTaschenmacher 5-7, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 257 8540 Website: www.brauhaus-sion.de

• Puszta-Hütte

Cuisine:Takeout This Puszta-Hütte fast food caters to meat lovers as well as vegetarians and vegans. You can choose from a selection of 10 different hot dog toppings as well as a variety of sides. The buns are homemade and the ingredients are regional and sustainably sourced. Address: Fleischmengergasse 57,Colonge. Telephone: +49 221 239 471 Website: www.puszta-huette.de

Cologne Nightlife

Many visitors are content to while away most of the evening drinking Kölsch (the famous local beer) in one of Cologne’s brewhouses (Brauhäuser), which is cross between a Bierkeller (beer cellar) and a traditional British pub. Nightclubs and stylish bars are dispersed around the town too. Look in the Altstadt (around Buttermarkt and Salzgasse) or go a little further out to the Belgisches Viertel (between Rudolfsplatz and Friesenplatz) to find the biggest concentration of fashionable places to drink and eat. Else the Univiertel (University Quarter), around Barbarossa Platz and Zülpicher Platz, rarely disappoints.

Bars in Cologne

• Cubana Bar

Boasting the best cocktail menu in town, this laidback bar has Che Guevara as its core theme. It also stocks an enviable range of aged Cuban rums and serves a wide selection of tapas. Located close to several top clubs, it’s a popular meeting point for those heading out for the night. Address: Barbarossaplatz 5, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 923 5481 Website: www.cubana-koeln.de

• FRÜH am Dom, die FRÜH Lounge

Früh am Dom is a labyrinthine Brauhaus, where sooner or later everyone ends up. It’s always busy but still manages to provide excellent service and top-quality food (try the Brauhausteller). Make the most of the chance to drink Kölsch, the light, refreshing local beer delivered by bartenders beneath chandeliers and enjoyed besides antique wooden screens and furniture. Address: Am Hof 12-18, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 261 3215 Website: www.frueh-am-dom.de

• Seiberts

This elegant, award-winning bar offers a unique experience away from the buzzle of the city. With attention to detail and a passion for cocktails, Seiberts has made it its mission to create a personal connection between the bartender and the guests. You can choose from handpicked champagnes and barrelled spirits as well as an extensive selection of cocktails. Address: Friesenwall 33, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 3019 5013 Website: www.seiberts-bar.com

Clubs in Cologne

• Diamonds

Whether you’re looking for a nostalgic trip back to the 1970s, when disco and soul ruled the airwaves, or prefer modern hip hop and techno, the themed nights at Diamonds can satisfy all cravings. Clubbers pack the dancefloor to strut their stuff to modern house music and retro tunes too, all basking in the reflected beams of a giant glitterball. Address: Hohenzollernring 90, Cologne. Telephone: +49 178 517 3273 Website: www.club-diamonds.de

• Wartesaal am Dom

Set in a former waiting room in the vaults beneath Cologne’s Hauptbahnhof (central station), this beautifully converted restaurant and club holds 80s and 90s nights each Saturday. It’s worth a detour just to look at the facade by night, even if you have no intention of going in. The golden arches backlit against the sky make a striking entrance as revellers make the most of the party atmosphere inside. Address: Johannisstrasse 11, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 1260 64713 Website: www.wartesaalamdom.de

Live music in Cologne

• Artheater

Located in Ehrenfeld, an area known for its alternative party scene, Artheater is not just a night club but also a theatre and concert space. On two dance floors party-goers can dance to predominantly EDM. Alternatively, listen to live music from upcoming artists or watch in-house and guest productions on stage. Address: Ehrenfeldgürtel 127, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 550 9960 Website: www.artheater.de

• LANXESS arena

The largest multifunction hall in Germany, LANXESS arena has hosted the likes of Pavarotti, Eric Clapton, Elton John and Rod Stewart. It’s big, it’s bold and it’s busy but it’s the sort of place where you can have a good time if you book your tickets well in advance. Address: Willy-Brandt-Platz 3, Cologne. Telephone: +49 2 218 021 Website: www.lanxess-arena.de

• Luxor

Following Nietzsche’s mantra – “Life without music would be a mistake” – this live music venue is a local favourite in Cologne. Its ever-changing line-up features anything from rock and pop to house and indie, and it prides itself on moderate prices, good music and a great atmosphere. This isn’t a place for restraint, though and the place pumps through the week as well as at the weekend. Address: Luxemburger Strasse 40, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 924 460 Website: www.luxor-koeln.de

• Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal

So pokey the bands almost play on top of the audience, but that’s part of the charm of Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal, one of the oldest jazz clubs in Germany. Traditional jazz and swing bands play every night and Sunday afternoon. Admission is free and Sunday afternoon jazz sessions take place throughout the winter months. Address: Buttermarkt 37, Cologne. Telephone: +49 221 257 7931 Website: www.papajoes.de

Cologne Food And Drink

11 Delicious Food in Cologne You MUST Eat:

• Rheinischer Sauerbraten

This is one of the most iconic dishes in Cologne. The incredibly tender meat, a result of the slow-cooking process, it what makes Sauerbraten so special. It has an irresistible sweet-sour flavor thanks to the sweet gravy and tangy marinade.

Are you on the hunt for the top traditional dishes of Cologne, Germany that every visitor should try? Then you’re in the right place. The local food here is deeply rooted in Rhineland culture, often featuring hearty and rustic dishes packed with flavor that will leave you craving for more. Learn about regional favorites like Himmel un Ääd, Rheinischer Sauerbraten and Mettbrötchen, as well as Kölsch beer served in unique “Stangen” glasses… as well as our recommended places to enjoy them! The meat is deliciously packed with flavor because they marinate it by soaking it in a mixture of broth, vinegar, red wine for at least for 5 days. Some marinate it for 2-3 weeks! It’s typically served with red cabbage, potato dumplings, and a sweet gravy. Potatoes are important because they help soak up the yummy gravy! The traditional dish is served using horse meat, but many places replace it with beef now. So if you want to taste authentic Rheinischer Sauerbraten, especially one made with horse meat, I highly recommend giving Kleine Glocke near Neumarkt a try!

• Halve Hahn

A Kölsch breakfast and pub staple, the Halve Hahn may surprise foreigners with its misleading name. Despite translating to “half a chicken” in dialect, this savory sandwich contains no chicken at all! Instead, it features a nostalgic combination of half a Röggelchen (rye bread), topped with a thick slice of aged cheese (usually Gouda), mustard, pickles and crunchy raw onions. Halve Hahn is often served as a finger food for enjoying alongside Kölsch beer. In fact, walk into any pub in Cologne and you’ll be able to order it.

• Himmel Un Ääd (Heaven And Earth)

Himmel Un Ääd is the ultimate comfort food for many of us living in the Rheinland Pfalz region. Also known as Himmel und Erde, its origins date back to the 18th century. The combination of mashed potatoes and apple sauce represents “earth” and “heaven” and every spoonful will warm up your soul. There’s usually a side of blutwurst (blood sausage) to give it a savory punch. I can still recall the exciting aroma of my grandmother’s homemade Himmel Un Ääd as she prepared this dish when I was a child! To try the traditional Himmel Un Ääd, we recommend popping by Em Golde Kappes or Peters Brauhaus. And don’t forget to pair it with cold glass of Kölsch!

• Kölner Krüstchen

You only need one glance at this traditional Colognian dish to wake up your appetite and get your mouth watering… Kölner Krüstchen is an open-faced sandwich featuring a golden fried pork schnitzel (often leftover from last night’s dinner!). It sits on a toasted slice of old rye bread, and is topped with a perfectly fried egg with a runny center.

The dish emerged in the 1960s as an affordable lunchtime snack for factory workers but has since become a beloved sandwich in Cologne. You can find Kölner Krüstchen on many pub menus throughout the city, where it’s often served with potato salad, French fries or roasted potatoes.

• Hämmche

At first glance, boiled pork knuckle may not sound like the most tempting choice on the menu. But in the world of traditional Cologne cuisine, it’s a beloved classic known as “Hämmche” or “Hämchen”. This must-try dish is essentially an extremely succulent and tender pork knuckle or ham hock, paired with sauerkraut and German mashed potatoes. The acidity and crunch of sauerkraut provide a wonderful balance to the rich, savory pork!

The magic begins with steeping the pork knuckle in a flavorful brine that tenderizes the tough cut. Then it’s slow-cooked, either by simmering or roasting for hours, until it easily falls off the bone. You can check out Malzmühle for a taste of authentic Hämmche. This brewery and restaurant boasts a long history dating back to the 19th century and is known to serve genuine Rhineland food.

• Mettbrötchen

Almost everyone in Cologne loves to eat Mettbrötchen, and it’s usually sold out pretty quickly in most bakeries! This simple dish consists of seasoned raw minced pork or beef served on a bread roll, garnished with raw onions. Texture-wise, it’s similar to salami, but softer. It’s important for the raw pork to be very fresh and high quality, so choose an establishment with proper food hygiene practices… so maybe DON’T buy it at a random food stand.

Us locals often eat it for breakfast or as a snack, and you can find it at most bakeries, pubs and cafes throughout the city. Bakeries can usually make you one on the spot when you ask. But my favorite is going to a butcher shop and just requesting for mettbrötchen. They usually use very fresh cuts of meat, and the taste is unmatched!

• Rievkooche

Rievkooche or reibekuchen, is a beloved dish in Cologne and throughout Germany. It’s a potato and onion pancake that’s crispy on the outside but tender on the inside! Rievkooche is usually served with applesauce and sometimes sugar beet syrup, which gives it a sweet taste that perfectly complements its savory flavor.

The dish originated in Westphalia, but over time has become popular throughout the Rhineland, where it’s often enjoyed alongside local beer at traditional beer gardens. But many locals swear by the rievkooche at the hole-in-the-wall Rievkoochebud just a 5-min walk from Heumarkt. They serve it fresh, piping hot and so crispy… I can attest it’s probably the best rievkooche I’ve ever had in Cologne!

• Ähzezupp

On chilly or rainy days, there’s nothing quite like a hearty bowl of Ähzezup to warm your soul. At least for me, the delicious smell of simmering peas, onions, and smoked pork never fails to put a smile on my face. This local favorite is an easy yet incredibly tasty soup made with peas, potatoes, smoked ham or sausage, and onions.

The peas, in particular, are soaked for a minimum of 24 hours to achieve that luscious and creamy texture. As for the smoked meat, it’s typically the rind or leftover pieces – cheap and tasty. Ähzezup can often be found on menus at pubs in Cologne, as well as in some restaurants specializing in traditional Rheinland cuisine.

• Kölsch Beer

When it comes to food in Cologne, it’s impossible not to mention Kölsch, the iconic beer that hails from this very city. The light and refreshing beer is served in small glasses called ‘Stange’, making it easy to down several at a time! Locals have their special way of drinking it – they never order one glass at a time but expect to be continuously served until they signal to stop by placing their coaster on top of the empty glass. Some may find it odd or confusing, but this is part of the local charm.

While Kölsch is widely available throughout many bars and restaurants in Cologne, locals will tell you each brewery makes their own type of Kölsch, with nuances in flavor. We really like the Kölsch from Brauerei Päffgen and Früh am Dom, but honestly, all of them are unique in their own way.

• Mandelmutzen

Also known as Almond Mutzen, this delightful treat that holds a special place in the hearts of those who live in Cologne, or the Rhineland and Westphalia region. These sweet, sugar-coated dough fritters with an almond-y flavor are a beloved snack, particularly during the Cologne Carnival.

Every year, as the city gears up for Carnival, stalls selling these almond-shaped treats pop up all over town.

I remember my parents would buy me a small bag of mutzenmandele, and the first bite was always pure magic. My fingers would always end up being coated in the powdery sugar, ha! These days, you can get mandelmutzen all-year round at local markets, fairs, and even some specialty shops. So you don’t have to wait until Carnival rolls around!

• Kölsche Kaviar

Kölsche Kaviar has absolutely nothing to do with the luxurious and costly caviar, nor does it involve fish roe! Instead, Kölsche Kaviar is a sandwich featuring a generous serving of blood sausage, known as Flönz in Cologne. It’s served alongside a Röggelchen, rings of onions, and a dollop of mustard, occasionally a dash of paprika powder.

Like the Halve Hahn, you can find it at any respectable Cologne pub. This blood sausage is made from pork blood and bacon, and is traditionally a cheap type of sausage that the poor could afford centuries ago.

Where To Eat And Drink In Cologne

• The Old Town (Altstadt) For a Pub Experience

For visitors who want an authentic taste of Cologne cuisine, I ask them to head right to the Old Town. Because it’s in the middle of Cologne, it’s easily accessible compared to other food districts. Nestled in the heart of the Old Town, you’ll find a busy hub of old-school pubs and breweries. Each has their own unique selling points and menu, and your safest bet is to find the one that’s frequented by locals. These places will serve most, if not all, of the Cologne favorites I’ve listed above. Expect simple yet satisfying meals, best washed down with few glasses of Kölsch. If you ask me, the best Old Town pubs worth visiting are Peters Brauhaus, Malzmühle, and Früh am Dom. TIP: Do not ask for ‘Altbier’ unless you want to be fixed with a dirty look.

• Päffgen Brauhaus For Kölsch From The Barrel

If you ask the locals for a place to enjoy Kölsch beer, chances are you’ll hear “Päffgen!” recommended many times.  Located near Friesenplatz, this family-owned brewery is known locally for brewing one of the best Kölsch beer in Cologne. The food they serve is quite decent too. Good, straightforward fare that’s unpretentious. While you can purchase bottled Kölsch from other breweries, Päffgen Kölsch can only be drunk fresh from tap. Some locals actually purchase barrels of their Kölsch to takeaway! Beware, they only accept CASH, so be prepared or risk having to hunt for an ATM.

• Cologne Cathedral Christmas Market For Seasonal Specialties

Located in front of the famous Cologne Cathedral, this annual Christmas market attracts around 4 million visitors each year. It’s your chance to enjoy holiday snacks and drinks that don’t usually appear year-round.

Here, visitors can find a range of traditional foods such as Rievkooche (potato pancakes), Flammkuchen (thin-crust pizza/flatbread), roasted chestnuts, Mandelmutzen, and Glühwein (mulled wine). Additionally, there are numerous stalls offering German sausages, grilled cheese, Belgian waffles, and more.

• Brauhaus Sion As Cologne’s Oldest Brewery

Claiming to have been brewing beer in Cologne for 700 years, Brauhaus Sion holds the title of perhaps the city’s most ancient brewery. Considered the “beating heart” of Kölsch beer, and set along Unter Taschenmacher, Sion has served as as a meeting point for locals. Many come here to enjoy wholesome Cologne dishes, along with Kölsch that has a centuries-old brewing heritage.