Cork

Cork Travel Guide

• About Cork

Proud and dynamic, Cork is Ireland’s second city – although the locals would say that their spirited home plays second fiddle to nowhere. There’s an irrepressible energy about Cork these days; it’s a city that’s enjoyed a cultural revival in the face of Ireland’s deep recession and emerged with a can-do attitude. Its self-adopted title, the People’s Republic of Cork, tells you much about its independent streak. This is something that can be seen in its flamboyant café culture and its flurry of creatively minded shops. It’s also found in a flourishing arts scene, where one venue’s Irish dancing is matched by another’s tango night. Plus, like any Irish town worth its salt, there is live music every night of the week. Many Corkonians see the city as an equal to the capital, Dublin. Any inferiority complex was brushed away midway through the last decade, when it was named European Capital of Culture – its artistic reputation then expanded globally. The city, though, has always been an important place of learning. “The Cork citizens are the most book-loving men I ever met,” said W. M. Thackeray, and he was on the right page. Today, it boasts over 20 festivals encompassing everything from dance to film, including the West Cork Literary Festival at Bantry Bay. Cork is a city built on estuarine islands, where the River Lee joins one of the world’s largest natural harbours, and it takes some 29 bridges to connect its most distinctive features together. The Shaky Bridge (a Victorian, cast-iron suspension footbridge officially known as Daly’s Bridge) takes centre stage, though, as locals use it to dive into the water or fish for their supper – it’s a great city for seafood. It’s well worth travelling out of town to Blarney Castle, too, where thousands line up to plant a peck on the Blarney Stone. It’s said that those who kiss the stone will be given the “the gift of the gab”. Most of Cork’s inhabitants must have visited at some point, because there isn’t a welcome this warm for miles.

• Cork History

Cork has had it hard: browbeaten, brawled over, burned down and rebuilt; no wonder it never outshone Dublin in the capital city stakes. Maimed by the Black Death, scared by starvation and ravaged by religious reformation, it’s remarkable that only a million Corkonians emigrated in the harsh winter of 1846-7. That period, known as Black 47, was the toughest of the Great Famine ( Website: www.bbc.co.uk ) When potato crops failed, starving souls flooded Cork in search of food or work. They found full workhouses, beggars and new cemeteries being dug. It’s not what Saint Finbarr envisioned when Cork was begun as a monastic site in the 6th century. Vikings settlers were more forward-thinking; their arrival in the 900s determined Cork’s destiny as a trading port. With one of the world’s largest natural harbours, water trade became the city’s bread and butter, especially the latter. In the 16th century, Cork’s butter spread as far as the West Indies. If only Cork’s history was all plain sailing. A long and complicated period of British interference started in 1169 with the Norman conquest of Ireland. By 1177, Cork was controlled by Henry II of England. Prince John chartered and walled the city in 1185, before the bubonic plague wiped out half the population in 1349; more perished in a fire in 1354. Control of Cork then continually changed hands in a restless period of war, revolt, bible burning and expulsion ( Website: www.historyireland.com) It ended when Oliver Cromwell   ( Website: www.historytoday.com ) granted the Protestants command of Cork, something they retained until the 19th century. The centre of the War of Independence ( Website: www.bbc.co.uk ) in the 1900s, Cork was marred with curfews, violence and murder. Temporary constables, known as the Black and Tans, committed many atrocities. In 1920, The City Hall and Carnegie Library were burned to the ground. Stability returned and an economic upturn (known as the Celtic Tiger) transformed Cork in the 1980s and 1990s. It became European Capital of Culture in 2005 before the global financial crisis poached it in its prime.

• Did you know?

Sir Walter Raleigh is thought to have planted Ireland’s first potato near Cork around 1588. The first steam ship to cross the Atlantic, The Sirius, weighed anchor from Cork in 1838. Cork was the last port of call for the Titanic before its ill-fated maiden voyage.

• Weather in Cork

Cork is blessed with a mild climate all year round, though strong Atlantic gusts have been known to bring rain and hail with them in the winter. The best time to visit Cork is in the summer, namely June to August, when the sun makes the most appearances, the mercury can pump towards 20°C (68 °F) and the city springs into life with a slew of different festivals and events.

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Things to see in Cork

Attractions

• Crawford Art Gallery

Located beside the Opera House in the centre of the city, Crawford Art Gallery has a permanent collection comprising more than 2,000 art works, ranging from 18th-century Irish and European paintings and sculptures to contemporary video installations. At the heart of the collection is a number of Greek and Roman sculpture casts, brought to Cork in 1818 from the Vatican Museum in Rome. Address: Emmet Place, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 480 5042 Opening times: Daily 10:00-18:00. Website: www.crawfordartgallery.ie Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Blarney Castle

Blarney Castle in Blarney, a village 8km (5 miles) to the northwest of Cork, is among Ireland’s oldest castles. It is famous for its stone, the Stone of Eloquence, which is traditionally believed to have the power to bestow the gift of eloquence on all those who kiss it. The grounds are also beautiful with the superb Rock Close, a landscaped garden where stone and nature collide, plus a pinetum, an arboretum, bog garden and the Castle’s very own poison garden, which contains toxic plants from around the world. Address: Blarney, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 438 5252 Opening times: Daily 09:00-18:00. Website: www.blarneycastle.ie  Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: No UNESCO: No

• The English Market

The covered English Market is one of Cork’s greatest assets, with a wonderful, lively atmosphere and an array of meat outlets, fruit and vegetable shops, fishmongers, Italian and French cheese stalls, fresh bread stands and much more. Traders have gathered here to sell their wares since 1788 and it’s still popular with locals and visiting tourists who can spend hours searching for that special souvenir among the clothes, crockery, art and novelty gifts. Address: Grand Parade, Entrances on Princes Street, Cork. Opening times: Mon-Sat 08:00-18:00. Website: www.englishmarket.ie Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Cork City Gaol

The gaol (“open 360 days a year”) is a Gothic, and deceptively romantic, Georgian building designed by Sir Thomas Deane (also responsible for the magnificently decorative Imperial Hotel in South Mall). The audio tour gives a chilling representation of harsh prison life, which kept prisoners isolated and silent. Young children were whipped twice weekly and there was scant regard for pregnant women caught stealing rags for clothing. Public executions were performed here and heads displayed outside to instil fear in the public. Opened in 1824, in later years the gaol housed Republican prisoners including writer Frank O’Connor. It finally closed in 1923. There is also an interesting radio museum attached. Address: Sunday’s Well, Convent Avenue, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 430 5022 Opening times: Daily 10:00-17:00. Website: www.corkcitygaol.com Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• St Fin Barre’s Cathedral

This architectural gem, completed in a Victorian Gothic style, was created by the English architect William Burges. It is famous for its craftsmanship, particularly in the sculpture, marble mosaics and stained glass. The cathedral stands on the site where the city of Cork was founded in the 7th century and is built of local limestone. The interior is made of Bath stone and the walls are lined with red Cork marble. The local names for its spires (whiskey and porter) are testament to the industries that brought prosperity to the city, despite the efforts of Father Mathew, the founder of the Temperance Movement, who preached moderation in alcohol consumption. He is commemorated by a statue in St Patrick’s Street. Address: Bishop St, The Lough, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 496 3387 Opening times: Daily 09:00-17:00. Website: www.corkcathedral.com Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Blackrock Castle Observatory

Reach for the stars at the 16th-century Blackrock castle, a former watchtower now combined with an award-winning observatory. The site appeals to budding astronomers and scientists as well as adults and children of all ages, with workshops and educational events throughout the year. The imposing building overlooks the River Lee on the outskirts of the city harbour. While visitors might not be able to afford the current price tag for a trip to the moon, they can send a message into space from here. There are also daily tours of the castle dungeon and turret. Address: Blackrock, Castle Road, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 432 6120 Opening times: Tue-Sun 10:00-16:00. Website: www.bco.ie Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: No UNESCO: No

• The Titanic Experience

The port of Cobh (pronounced ‘Cove’), gateway to Cork city, was the final point of call for the doomed Titanic, which went on from here and sunk during her maiden voyage in 1912. A permanent exhibition, located in the original offices of the Titanic’s shipping company, The White Star Line, allows visitors to retrace the footsteps of the 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic here on its fateful journey to America. Afterwards you can stroll in peaceful reflection along the riverside walk in the park that contains Cork Museum. Address: Casement Square, Ballyvoloon, Cobh, Co. Cork. Telephone: +353 21 481 4412 Opening times: Daily 09:00-18:30. Website: www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Triskel Christchurch Arts Centre

This deconsecrated church, now popular as a gay wedding venue, is also an innovative arts centre. A real community success, there are concerts in the church and gigs in the onsite café, plus film screenings, theatre productions and a number of art exhibitions. Don’t miss the café, Gulp’d, with a brilliant menu of good coffee, cakes and light lunches, owned by music entrepreneur Jimmy Horgan. His cooler-than-cool record store, Plug’d, can be found upstairs. Address: Triskel Arts Centre, Tobin St, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 427 2022 Opening times: Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00. Website: www.triskelartscentre.ie Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• The Cork Butter Museum

This museum celebrates one of the great Irish success stories: the butter trade. Its accomplishments were central to Cork’s prosperity from the late 18th century onwards. At one point it led the world market, trading tens of millions of pounds worth of butter annually. As well as information on the traditional craft of butter making and the development of Ireland’s most famous brand, Kerrygold, you’ll learn how the trade shaped farming and rural life. Interesting dairy paraphernalia at this quirky little museum includes milk churns, a keg containing one thousand year old butter and a display of butter bricks. Address: O’Connell Square, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 430 0600 Opening times: Daily 10:00-16:00. Website:www.thebuttermuseum.com Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: No UNESCO: No

• St Anne’s Church

Built in 1722 on a hill above the city, this church has a spectacular bell tower and distinctive Italianate architecture. It is said that a true Cork citizen must be born within the sound of Shandon Bells from St Anne’s Church. Visitors can scale the stairs inside the steeple walls to a parapet that has 360-degree views of the city. Moreover, it is possible to play the church’s eight bells with the assistance of sheet tune cards. Its clock tower is known as ‘the four-faced liar’ because each face shows a different time when high winds interfere with the wooden clock hands. Address: Shandon, Church Street, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 450 5906 Opening times: Daily 10:00-16:30. Website: www.shandonbells.ie Admission Fees: Yes for entry to the steeple. Disabled Access: No UNESCO: No

• University College Cork

One of Ireland’s oldest universities is still at the heart of the city, with more than 14,000 students and a leading research centre. Within this complex of historic buildings is the Honan Chapel with its famous stained glass windows and the 19th century Crawford Observatory. The Lewis Glucksman Art Gallery aims to explore all aspects of visual culture and presents a range of innovative, changing exhibitions. It also has an excellent bookshop and a basement cafe. Address: Western Road, College, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 490 3000 Opening times: Mon-Fri 09:00-17:00. Website:www.ucc.ie Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Cork Vision Centre

The Cork Vision Centre provides a richly informative introduction to the city’s geography and history and includes a detailed 1:500-scale model of the city. See conservation in action and explore Cork’s evolution, and learn about its plans for the future inside the aging walls of St Peter’s Church. Address: St Peter’s, North Main Street, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 427 8187 Opening times: Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00. Website: www.stpeterscork.ie Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

Tourist Offices

• Cork Tourist Information Centre

Address: 125 St Patrick’s St, Centre, Cork. Telephone: +353 12 655 634 Opening times: Fri-Tue 09:00-17:00. Website:www.discoverireland.ie The office provides an accommodation booking service, free guide books, help with itinerary and route planning, multilingual facilities, information about events in the area and often has local craft displays. Tickets and tours can also be booked here.

Things to do in Cork

• Back a winner at the greyhound racing

It may sound like a throwback to the 1950s, but greyhound racing still makes for a memorable night out. Try and pick a winner at: Curraheen Park Greyhound Stadium Telephone: +353 61 448 080 Website: www.grireland.ie which hosts race meets throughout the week. There’s live music each evening too, with special events hosted throughout the year.

• Get caught up with the musical craic

You don’t have to look far to find a fiddler or five in Cork as most pubs have traditional Irish music throughout the week. But the city’s musical maestro is: Sin É Address: 8 Coburg St, Victorian Quarter, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 450 2266 Website: www.corkheritagepubs.com where musicians pipe up on Tuesdays, Friday, Saturdays and Sundays.

• Play Amazing Grace on the Shandon Bells

Not only is it possible to ring Cork’s famed Shandon Bells if you climb up to the first floor of: St Anne’s Church Telephone: +353 21 450 5906 Website: www.shandonbells.ie but there are several songs to choose from, ranging from Amazing Grace to Waltzing Matilda. This is not recommended on a hangover.

• Putt across the greens of the Emerald Isle

If you can’t travel without your 3-iron, take to the greens of the Emerald Isle at Cork Golf Club Telephone: +353 21 435 3451 Website: www.corkgolfclub.ie located at Little Island. The course’s underlying limestone offers excellent terrain, while the river and steep quarry chasms present a thrilling challenge for even a seasoned pro.

• See nature’s own light show

If daytime kayaking is just too straightforward, this nighttime tour on Lough Hyne with: Atlantic Sea Kayaking  ( Website: www.atlanticseakayaking.com ) is for you. You’ll go out an hour before darkness to acquaint yourself with your boat, and at certain times of the year the marine life will glow with bioluminescent light.

Cork tours and excursions

Cork tours

• Food tours

Forget a packed lunch and a stroll along the river, the Cork Tasting Trail is 2 hours 30 minutes of markets, mongers and munching around the Ireland’s food capital. Taking in everything from butchers and bakers to the best boozers in the city, knowledgeable guides will show off the finest dining experiences around. All dietary requirements can be catered for. Telephone: +353 21 497 1245 Website: www.fabfoodtrails.ie Franciscan Well and Brewery tour This craft beer brewery is built on the site of a 13th-century monastery, whose well was said to have curative powers. Before visitors would come from far and wide to drink its magical water, but now they are attracted by the distinguished lagers, ales, stouts and wheat beers that are produced onsite. Tours of the brewery include a beer tasting package, but its brew pub is just next door if you’re not ready for last orders. Telephone: +353 21 496 6300 Website: www.rebelcitydistillery.com Whiskey Trail Treat yourself to a tipple or two on a whiskey trail at The Jameson Experience in Midleton, 24km (15 miles) from Cork.Ireland claims to have invented the ‘water of life’ and these tours give a good overview of the drink’s history as well as the processes needed to make a dram and a drop. Guided tours are available throughout the year and visitors are taken through the old distillery and around the kilns, mills, water wheel, still house and distiller’s cottage. At the end, there’s time to reflect with a wee dram. Telephone: +353 21 461 3594 Website: www.whiskeyglobal.com

• Walking tours

If you’re looking to explore Cork on two feet, there’s a slew of interesting tours available in the city, from haunted routes to a historic harbour stroll in Kinsale. Among the best are the O.L.G.A. Cork tours, which last 90 minutes and takes in the culture and history of the city with state-qualified guides and The Titanic Trail, a route for maritime and military fans which breathes life into the history of Spike Island and convict transportation as well as the Titanic’s fateful first voyage. Telephone: +353 83 037 1559 Website: www.freewalkingtourscork.com

• Bus tours

Tours of Cork city in open-top buses are operated by Cork City Tours. Ticket holders can hop on and off at any stop along the way, with tickets valid for two consecutive days. There are five tours each day starting from the Grand Parade which takes in sights such as Patrick’s Quay, Shandon Steeple and Butter Museum, Sunday’s Well and Cork City Gaol. Telephone:+353 21 430 9090 Website: www.corkcitytours.com

Cork excursions

• Cóbh

The picturesque town of Cóbh (pronounced ‘Cove’), situated 26km (16 miles) from Cork city centre, is at the end of what is one of Ireland’s loveliest railway stretches. Nestled on Great Island in Cork Harbour, this colourful seaport (formerly known as Queenstown) has more history to it than meets the eye. The Queenstown Story at the Cóbh Heritage Centre recreates the experiences of the 2.5 million Irish emigrants who left Ireland from here between 1848 and 1950. Cóbh was also the last port of call for the Titanic, an event remembered at the Titanic Experience Cóbh, a visitor attraction situated in the original offices of The White Star Line shipping company. Telephone: +353 21 481 3591 Website: www.cobhheritage.com 

• Kinsale

For informed foodies, the harbour town of Kinsale, 29km (18 miles) south of Cork, is plated up as the gourmet capital of Ireland. With chefs and eateries accommodating all tastes and waists, visitors can indulge in anything from traditional, hearty pub grub to world famous seafood. A lunch in any of the town’s restaurants or cafés should set up even the most ravenous traveller for an afternoon’s sailing or golfing. If that seems a little too strenuous, gift shopping in the town’s high-end craft shops should see visitors through until dinner. Telephone: +353 21 477 2234 Website: www.kinsale.ie

Shopping in Cork

There’s no shortage of shopping opportunities in Cork. Visitors will find everything from designer fashion brands and trend-setting music outlets to book stores and pop-up food stalls. Wander down the narrow lanes off of the main streets and the city has many quirky and fascinating emporia to explore.

• Key areas

Snoop around the city and there are plenty of shops to discover, but those keen to spend some money should head to Patrick Street, Cork’s lengthy shopping stretch. Antiques and musical instruments are available along MacCurtain Street and French Church Street is peppered with clothes and shoe shops. If you want big brands, wander along Opera Lane where shiny, high street homogeneity awaits.

• Markets

Cork has many impressive markets but the best is The English Market between Grand Parade and St Patrick’s Street. It exudes a wonderful, lively atmosphere, selling top-quality artisan foods. Originally established under British rule, traders had to swear allegiance to the Queen, but today it’s just top-quality vendors selling anything from seafood, cheese and meat to novelty gifts and crockery. If you’re brave, try some tripe (offal from animal stomachs) and drisheen (black pudding). The eateries upstairs are an essential introduction to the spirit of Cork too with all the ingredients coming from the stallholders below. Along MacCurtain Street at weekends you’ll find Mother Jones Flea Market. Named after a celebrated trade unionist that left Cork for America in the 1800s, the market is now a hunting ground for all things vintage. The Coal Quay Market, on Cornmarket Street, is also worth visiting, for food, clothes, shoes and musical recordings and equipment, as well as the legendary verbal wit of the stallholders (best heard on Saturdays).

• Shopping centres

There are several large shopping centres in the city including Merchants Quay on Patrick Street, which is home to a number of department stores like Debenhams and Marks and Spencer as well as fashion houses, bookstores and health and beauty shops over two floors. It also has a food court. The huge Mahon Point Shopping Centre, found at Mahon Point, not only has a slew of stores to quell any shopping needs (from Argos to Zara; home improvements to health foods), but also has a 13 screen cinema, a farmers market and fast food joints. Another option includes Wiltons Shopping Centre, on Sarsfield Road, which has over 75 stores to pick from. It also has a number of banks, restaurants and a Post Office as well as free car parking.

• Opening hours

Standard shopping hours are Monday to Saturday 09:00-17:00/18:00. Late-night shopping is on Thursday and Friday, with the bigger stores and many of the smaller ones remaining open until about 20:00-21:00. Many bookshops keep longer hours and some also open on Sunday 12:00-18:00.

• Souvenirs

Visitors after a taste of Cork can take home local food specialities like Clonakilty black pudding and Cork spiced beef. Whiskey memorabilia, including bottles of the gold stuff, also make popular presents. On a tackier tilt, there are enough shamrock fridge magnets and Guinness key rings around to sink the Titanic. Those with literary friends to impress should look out for works by famous local writers like Frank O’Connor.

• Tax information

Non-EU residents are entitled to claim VAT back on items purchased and taken home at the end of their visit. VAT in Ireland is 23%, but the VAT refund available is 18.07%, from which a small handling fee is deducted by the Refund Agency. Ask for a Tax Free Worldwide form in shops in order to make your claim.

Restaurants in Cork

There’s a strong emphasis on local, artisan produce in Cork’s wide variety of restaurants, but the city also absorbs some exciting influences from all over the world. Cork is for the culinary curious and foodies can eat anywhere from Michelin-starred restaurants to farmers market nibbles. The restaurants have been grouped in three different price categories: Expensive (over €50) Moderate (€25 to €50) Cheap (under €25) A discretionary tip of around 10% of the total bill is the norm, although a service charge is often included in the bill.

Expensive

• Greenes

Cuisine: French Foodies can spend a balmy evening in the romantic courtyard setting of Greenes restaurant under the ripple of its beautiful floodlit waterfall, or hidden away in the cosy indoor seating area in more inclement weather. Either way, the French-influenced menu and extensive wine list is the stuff of dining dreams offering delicately designed dishes like seared wild North Cork venison parsnip puree, chorizo, beluga lentils, Nameko mushrooms, mulled wine and elderberry jus. Address: MacCurtain Street, Victorian Quarter, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 455 2279 Website: www.greenesrestaurant.com

• Jacob’s on the Mall

Cuisine: Modern European Jacob’s is a modern, 130-seat restaurant in Cork’s financial district. Located in the city’s old Turkish baths, it has an unusual, intriguing atmosphere. The cuisine is modern European, and the food is characterised by imaginative cooking and the blending of fresh, local and organic ingredients. Fill up on the Jacob’s steak sandwich with caramelised onions and Portobello mushrooms. Address: 30A South Mall, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 425 1530 Website: www.jacobsonthemall.com

Moderate

• Café Paradiso

Cuisine: Vegetarian This is the best vegetarian restaurant in Cork (and possibly in Ireland). On offer is award-winning and highly original vegetarian fusion food based on local and seasonal ingredients. Meals include spiced feta and pistachio couscous cake, smoked pepperonata with wilted greens along with carrot, almond and feta terrine, cucumber-mango salsa and fennel crispbreads. Critics and other guests have been singing the restaurant’s praises for many years, and with good reason. Vegetarian cuisine doesn’t get much better than this. Address: 16 Lancaster Quay, Mardyke, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 427 7939 Website: www.paradiso.restaurant

• Jacques

Cuisine: Irish If you really want a taste of Cork, look no further than Jacques, a city centre eatery that has been plating up local food for more than 30 years. The idea is to take simple, fresh ingredients such as Cork cheese, beef, lamb, fish and wild game (when in season) and turn them into meals you’ll be talking about for years. Keep returning for the pulled slow braised short ribs, parmesan gnocchi and roast celeriac or go healthy with beetroot and quinoa cakes, served beetroot relish and hummus. The plonk here also comes from independent wine makers. Address: 23 Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 427 7387 Website: www.jacquesrestaurant.ie

• Orso Kitchen and Bar

Cuisine: Mediterranean This small, bustling restaurant opens for breakfast and then serves exquisitely cooked, Mediterranean-influenced food all day long. Popular and often packed, it’s pot luck as to whether you’ll get a table as they can’t be reserved, so cosy up instead on the long, wooden tables and enjoy fresh plates like whole spiced quail with roast saffron veg and dipping sauce. Don’t miss the giant rosewater and pistachio meringues with fruit and cream. Address: Pembroke Street, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 243 8000 Website: www.orso.ie

Cheap

• 14a

Cuisine: Irish, Mediterranean 14a is an intimate, modern space with a bright interior, but its walls are adorned with black and white photos, myriad mirrored shapes and traditional veneer furniture. It’s that mixture of the new and the old which defines the menu too. Proud of serving uncomplicated food, using locally sourced, organic ingredients, it’s just as likely you’ll come across a hearty slice of decent steak as you will a bowl of refreshingly juicy green olives and grapefruit. 14a is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Address: French Church Street, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 427 6457 Website: www.restaurant14a.ie

• Farmgate Café

Cuisine: Irish It doesn’t matter if you’re hungry for breakfast or lunch, the long bar at Farmgate Café, which overlooks the covered English Market, is the best spot for door-stopper sandwiches, hearty soups and stews, and people watching. The menu is dictated by the food stalls below, so it changes daily, but strong, hot coffee and devilish cakes are always available. The service is excellent, the staff are super-friendly and once you’re done, you can go downstairs and shop for dinner. Address: English Market, Princes Street, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 427 8134 Website: www.farmgate.ie

• Market Lane

Cuisine: Irish, Mediterranean Market Lane is an award-winning restaurant and bar that sits over two floors in the city centre. The chefs use ingredients from local artisan producers, including the English Market, and meals major on meat, fish and game, though the salads and sandwiches are great too. Forever frenetic with locals, this is one of Cork’s most popular eating houses and no matter how busy the staff, they’ll always try to get you a space, even if it’s up at the bar near the delightful white, exposed brickwork. Address: Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 427 4710 Website: www.marketlane.ie

Cork Nightlife

Whether your passion is for music, dance, film, theatre, or you simply want to soak up the atmosphere in a traditional bar, the best of Cork’s nightlife is only a short walk (or jig) away. It’s an easy city to find your way around and you’ll soon discover that there is nothing more romantic than making your way home along the River Lee after an evening of uniquely Irish hospitality.

Bars in Cork

• The Old Town Whiskey Bar at Bodega

This ornate, high-ceilinged nightspot has both a pan-global restaurant and a high-energy nightclub. A favourite Cork watering-hole, featuring four bars set within St Peter’s Market, Bodega displays work by artists such as Jack Butler Yeats which are offset by chandeliers and pewter counters. It’s a listed building, a bar, a nightclub and a restaurant rolled into one that takes the English Market as its inspiration and serves traditional Irish food throughout the day. Address: 44-45 Cornmarket St, Centre, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 427 3756 Website: www.oldtownwhiskeybar.com

• Perch – Rooftop at SoHo

Stylish and modern, if Corkonians didn’t have homes to go to, they could stay in SoHo Bar forever. Not only is this the place to come to watch all major sporting events (they even have plasma screens in the bathrooms), but there are four levels of the venue to choose from and each suits a different mood. So whether you’re in need of breakfast, lunch and dinner, cocktails on a rooftop terrace or DJs and dance floors until the wee hours, SoHo Bar will be your host seven days a week. Address: 77 Grand Parade, Centre, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 422 4040 Website:www.soho.ie

• The Long Valley Bar

This old-fashioned establishment is a classic Irish pub that was founded back in 1842. When British constables from the Black and Tans burned down much of Cork, The Long Valley Bar remained untouched thanks to its popularity with British soldiers. Still family-run, the snug tavern has etched-glass doors as well as a door salvaged from The Celtic, an ocean liner that ran aground in Cork harbour. Inside, the main taproom is a long space with a polished wooden bar and the famous, thickly-filled sandwiches are perfect for soaking up the beer during the pub’s traditional music sessions. Address: 10 Winthrop St, Centre, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 427 2144 Website: www.thelongvalleybar.ie

Clubs in Cork

• Vibe Gay Nightclub Cork

The Vibe is one of the hippest night spots in Cork. Inside, with furnishings and decor, mood lighting, fine art and classic cocktails. Dancers, head to the stage room with LED lighting and Turbosound sound system. A favorite of the city’s dance music troupe, the music runs late, but there’s always a rooftop terrace for those looking for a break. Address: 64 Oliver Plunkett St, Centre, Cork. Telephone: +353 87 618 5740 Website: www.vibecork.com

• The Voodoo Rooms

When it opened in spring 2014, The Voodoo Rooms had punters queuing all the way along the Grand Parade, and the late night music venue didn’t disappoint. It still doesn’t with its sophisticated cocktails and a first floor chill out area. Expect lasers, disco balls and DJs spinning through the night. Address: O74 Oliver Plunkett St, Centre, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 427 0075 Website: www.voodoorooms.ie

Live music in Cork

• Sin É

Once providing haircuts with your pint, Sin É is now one of the city’s top venues for live traditional Irish music. Pronounced ‘shin ay’, meaning ‘that’s it’, the name is a reference to the funeral parlour next door. Far from being past its expiry date, the walls, which are covered in postcards and posters, shake with the sounds of fiddles and flutes as locals strike up the sounds of Ireland. Address: 8 Coburg Street, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 450 2266 Website: www.corkheritagepubs.com

• Kino Events House

Formerly an art-house cinema, this building has been given a new lease of life by a group of young entrepreneurs who run it as a concert venue. It is also the city’s only all-ages, alcohol-free venue for live music, film and theatre. It operates as a cafe during the day and presents performances in the evenings, ranging from music shows, theatre and film screenings to charity balls and private functions. Address: 23A Washington Street West, Kino, Co. Cork. Telephone: +353 83 046 5599

• The Oliver Plunkett

The Oliver Plunkett boasts live music seven nights a week, featuring everything from blues and jazz to rock and soul. It serves breakfast, lunch and evening meals and is filled with interesting and quirky facts about Cork, its history and its people. The walls and ceilings are lined with a collection of old photographs (such as John F. Kennedy’s visit to the city in the 1960s) and Irish quotes, plus lines from poems and songs. The place has a great atmosphere that’s only bettered by its superb Guinness and fine cocktails. Address: Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 422 2779 Website: www.theoliverplunkett.com

• The Pavilion

Located in the historic Huguenot Quarter, The Pavilion is a music venue that’s making some history of its own. Expect a selection of world-beating bands and live acts to come through the doors as bookers get the best names in indie, rock, jazz and traditional Irish music, including many before they break into the big time. A little rough around the edges, visitors will find the speakers turned on and up every night of the week with DJs and dinner often thrown into the mix as well. Address: Carey’s Lane, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 229 6785 Website: www.thepav.ie

Dance in Cork

• Firkin Crane Dance Centre

The Firkin Crane Dance Centre hosts an eclectic weekly programme of dance shows including jazz, tap, international folk styles and movement techniques based on yoga and Pilates. For those wanting to get involved, there are classes, workshops and recitals too. There is also an interactive display with original costumes, vintage film and theatrical posters at the venue, which promotes contemporary dance and celebrates the story of Joan Denise Moriarty, credited with bringing professional ballet to Ireland. Address: John Redmond St, Shandon, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 450 7487 Website: www.firkincrane.ie 

Theatres in Cork

• Cork Arts Theatre

Established by the arts community, for the arts community, this club opened in 1976. Fondly known as the ‘CAT Club’, Cork Arts Centre is a venue for amateur and professional shows and is a socialising hub for all arts enthusiasts. It has pioneered outreach programmes, writing competitions and community drama festivals to make theatre more accessible to the city. Address: Carroll’s Quay, Camden Court, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 450 5624 Website: www.corkartstheatre.com 

• Everyman Palace Theatre

This iconic 650-seater venue, and listed building, was built in the late Victorian era and has a rich music hall history. It is a favourite with audiences and performers alike for its intimacy and atmosphere. It hosts visiting companies from the UK, USA and of course all-Irish productions. Amateur dramatics enthusiasts can get married on stage too as the theatre has been approved for civil ceremonies. Address: 15 MacCurtain Street, Victorian Quarter, Cork. Telephone: +353 21 450 1673 Website: www.everymancork.com

Cork Food And Drink

Food in Cork

• Ardrahan Cheese

Ardrahan is a delightful cheese produced in Kanturk near Cork, by the Burns family since 1980. Ardrahan is made from pasteurised cows milk, vegetarian rennet and natural starter culture. Ardrahan is made on the farm and all the milk is produced on the family farm.

• Toons Bridge Mozzarella

Mozzarella, mild, smooth-textured cheese made in its authentic Italian version from the milk of the water buffalo; imitations of varying quality are commonly made of cow’s milk.

• Spiced Beef

Spiced beef is a Cork speciality made by “corning” beef in a salt and spice brine. In days past, this type of preparation was used to preserve meat for long voyages as Cork was a central port for the British navy and for traders sailing west to the New World.

• Blarney Castle Cheese

Blarney Castle is a mild and creamy cow’s milk cheese with rich and velvety undertones. It both feels and tastes similar to a young Dutch Gouda cheese and makes a perfect complement to fresh fruit and a glass of crisp wine, like Sauvignon Blanc.

• Tripe and Drisheen

Tripe and drisheen had been a tradition in Cork for many years but in recent times, the classic dish has seen a slight rise in popularity. Beef tripe is the lining of a cow’s stomach and looks like a honeycomb while drisheen is a sausage of beef and sheep’s blood. Traditionally in Cork, both are served together.

• Bacon and Cabbage

Bacon and cabbage (Irish: bagún agus cabáiste) is a dish traditionally associated with Ireland. The dish consists of sliced back bacon boiled with cabbage and potatoes. Smoked bacon is sometimes used. The dish is served with the bacon sliced, and with some of the boiling juices added.

• Timoleague Brown Pudding

Timoleague brown pudding is a variety of blood sausage made from fresh pig’s blood, pork trimmings, cereals, fresh onions, seasonings, spices, and natural casings. It is prepared from the meat sourced from the producers within a six miles radius of the processing facility at Timoleague in West Cork.

• St Gall Cheese

Frank and Gudrun Shinnick’s award winning Saint Gall cheese made from the milk of their own herd of pedigree Friesian cows in Co. Cork. The long grazing season on the fertile pastures of the Blackwater River valley produces superb quality raw milk which shines through in the quality of the finished product.

Drink In cork

Cork has long been a centre for brewing and distilling – with famous brands and a worldwide reputation, going back to the 19th century, of exporting our best beers, ales, whiskeys and gins to the four corners of the world.

• beer

The Perfect Cork Pint, Cork has long been a centre for brewing and distilling – with famous brands and a worldwide reputation, going back to the 19th century.

• Ale

Ale is a type of beer brewed from malted barley using a warm-fermentation with a strain of brewers’ yeast. The yeast will ferment the beer quickly, giving it a sweet, full bodied and fruity taste.

• whiskey

The Tullamore Dew, Hyde and Midleton (Jameson, Spot Whiskey, Redbreast) distilleries are based in Cork County.

•  The highball

The highball was dubbed as such back in the late 19th century at a Manhattan bar, and from there it was loosely applied to whiskey watered down with soda water, whiskey watered down with just plain water, and whiskey watered down with ginger ale. Other spirits crept into the equation.

• gin Cocktails

Very tasty and refreshing; a nice standard for a Gin Bump, but with the pleasant twist of having a hint of vanilla at the end.