Lyon

Lyon Travel Guide

• About Lyon

Situated at the crossroads of Europe, two hours from the ski resorts of the Alps and just a little further to the Mediterranean, Lyon’s history, architecture, and cultural and culinary delights are more than worthy of a detour on the way to the sun or the slopes. In fact, the city itself is now a major attraction, whether you like hedonistic music festivals (like Nuits Sonores), fine dining (this is the home of French gastronomy) or lashings of history and architecture. A UNESCO world heritage site, Lyon’s major selling point for many visitors are its distinctive architectural hallmarks and the contrasts in its setting, between two hills (Fourvière and Croix-Rousse) and two rivers (the Rhône and the Saône). Its centre is beautiful, and it’s enough to have you snapping selfies all over the place. The riverfront is being transformed under an ambitious, six year plan to develop 48km (30 miles) of former docks. The co-called Confluence project is now Europe’s largest single urban regeneration mission, and it include open-air cafes, promenades, viewing points, art installations and galleries as well as nature trails, museums, a huge shopping (While you’re there Plan your trip France Information Places in Lyon Airports mall, tram lines and eccentric apartment blocks built like Lego houses in primary colours and blocky shapes. Lyon itself has a mixed heritage, displaying traits of a typical northern French town in some areas, while other features bear witness to its Latin origins. It’s where north meets south. Lyon’s history of resistance during WWII, of being the cradle of the invention of film and cinema, of its artists, architects and musicians – these all give it a highly cultured and intriguing feel. With outstanding art museums, fantastic shopping and a thriving nightlife, Lyon has become a cultural and dynamic city with plenty to offer. Thanks to its thrilling dining scene, France’s second biggest city is also a gourmet’s paradise. With the exception of Paris, Lyon boasts the largest number of Michelin-starred restaurants and famous chefs in the whole of France, so the time to tuck into Lyon has never been better.

• Lyon History

The history of Lyon begins on Fourvière Hill, where vestiges of the original Roman city (Lugdunum, meaning the ‘City of Light’) are still evident. Founded in 43BC by Roman consul Lucius Munatius Plancus, it went on to become one of the most important cities in Gaul and for more than 300 years, was one of the biggest trading towns in the Empire. In the years that followed the Roman collapse, Lyon retained its premier political position under a succession of conquering rulers; first as part of Lotharingia, then the Kingdom of Burgundy and finally as a part of the Holy Roman Empire. While not much architecture from this period remains, the buildings created after Lyon was annexed by Phillip the Fair of France in 1342 do. Even more can be seen from the 15th century, in particular the Renaissance period, when Lyon enjoyed a rebirth of its own. This came as a result of its increasing importance as a place for trade under the auspices of the Dukes of Savoy, as well as its pre-eminence in the silk making and printing businesses. This boom continued well into the 18th century, with Lyons’ increasing profitability speeding up during the reign of Napoleon who insisted that all countries under his control buy Lyonnais silk and Lyonnais silk alone. Lyon’s pre-eminence in the silk trade continued well into the 20th century, only really coming to an end during the dark days of WWII when its role as a centre for the French Resistance resulted in much destruction and harsh punishments for its citizens. Industrialisation and diversification into other businesses dominated the post-war years as Lyon lost out to India and China in the silk trade. The problem was that both could make silk more cheaply. Today, however, it is a thriving modern city that continues to flourish, silk or no silk.

• Did you know?

Croix Rousse Hill, the former home of the city’s silk workers, is crisscrossed with passages known as traboules. St Blandina was martyred in the city’s Roman Amphitheatre of the Three Gauls. Crédit Lyonnais, one of France’s biggest banks, was founded in and named after Lyon.

• Weather in Lyon

Lyon boasts over 2,000 hours of sunshine every year, with summer proving to be the most popular time to visit. Average temperatures are around 26°C (80°F) in July and August, although of course this does draw in the crowds. June and September is less hot and less crowded. May is also a good time to visit, when there are temperatures of 21°C (70°F) and spring flowers are starting to blossom. But bear in mind, it can be wet in spring as well as autumn. Winter is extremely cold, with winds from the Alps providing an extra chill on extreme days. Temperatures in January can plummet to 2°C (37°F)

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Things to see in Lyon

Attractions

• Basilique de Notre Dame de Fourvière

The Basilica of Fourvière dominates Lyon. It is situated on top of the hill where the Romans first set up camp and it is visible from almost any point in the city centre. The basilica was inaugurated in 1896 and represents a somewhat chaotic mixture of styles and materials. Even though it has been much criticised for its rather confusing architecture (and has been given nicknames like ‘the upside-down elephant’), it remains an important focal point in the lives of the Lyonnais. The adjoining esplanade gives a panoramic view of Lyon’s different quarters. Address: 2nd, 8 Place de Fourvière, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7825 8098 Opening times: Daily 07:00-21:00. Website: www.fourviere.org Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

•  Cathédrale St-Jean

This beautiful cathedral is situated at the foot of the Fourvière Hill. It was built between the late 12th and 15thcenturies, on the remains of a fifth-century church, offering a perfect illustration of the transition from Roman to gothic architecture. The crypt provides the opportunity to see the foundations of the cathedral. The stone medallions and glass mosaics are worth a closer look, with some of them dating from the 14th century. The cathedral has maintained a 14th-century astronomical clock equipped with a surprisingly sophisticated system of automatons. Address: 2nd, 8 place St-Jean, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7842 1104 Opening times: Tue-Sun 09:00-18:00. Website: www.cathedrale-lyon.cef.fr Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon

Known as ‘little Louvre’, Lyon’s museum of fine arts offers a complete retrospective of  ncient Greek and Egyptian arts and civilisations, as well as sculptures and paintings from the Middle Ages to the present day. An overview of European painting from the 14th century to the second half of the 20th is on display, with works from artists such as Manet, Monet, Picasso, Renoir, Léger, Matisse and many others, including Lyonnais painters. The museum is housed in the former Abbey of the Ladies of St-Pierre, a Benedictine convent whose origins stretch back to the seventh century. Address: 2nd, 20 place des Terreaux, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7210 1740 Opening times: Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00. Website: www.mba-lyon.fr Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Musée des Miniatures et Décors de Cinema

Located in the heart of the Renaissance district in Old Lyon, this unique museum displays miniature scenes and models, many of which have been used as film sets. For anyone who likes model villages, dolls’ houses or anything that’s miniaturised, it’s manna from heaven here. Address: 2nd, 60 rue St Jean, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7200 2477 Opening times: Daily 10:00-18:30. Website: www.museeminiatureetcinema.fr Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

•  Centre d’Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation (CHRD)

This well-designed museum puts Lyon’s role during WWII into context. Ironically, it’s located in the former headquarters of the Gestapo, where the local leader, Klaus Barbie (known as the ‘Butcher of Lyon’), tortured or killed his victims and sent thousands of others to concentration camps. The curators of the permanent exhibition have made a conscious effort to illustrate the somewhat ambiguous position of France during its occupation while also portraying the importance of Lyon as a centre of organized French resistance. Address: 3rd, 14 avenue Berthelot, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7273 9900 Opening times: Wed-Sun 10:00-18:00. Website: www.chrd.lyon.fr Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Hôtel de Ville (City Hall)

Lyon City Hall’s original structure, built in 1646, was Louis XIII in style, however, later embellishments made the outside more elaborate and Italianate, with sculptured pediments and domes gracing the pavilions.The interior, with its extravagant baroque-style décor, is the result of 19th-century renovation. Highlights include Thomas Blachet’s 17th-century llegorical frescoes and the most impressive room, the Grand Salon. However, the great staircase is the unmistakable centrepiece and visitors should look up at the vaulted ceiling celebrating ‘L’éternité de la gloire de Lyon’ (‘The eternal glory of Lyon’). The bell tower is also remarkable, with three of the original 1675 bells and a 20th-century carillon. The tourist office can organise tours of Hôtel de Ville, but they are in French. Group visits only. Address: 1st, 1 place de la Comédie, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7210 3030 Opening times: Mon-Sat 08:00-19:00. Website:  www.visiterlyon.com Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Musée Lumière

This museum, showcasing cinema’s beginnings, is housed in the Institut Lumière, the home of the famous Lumière brothers Louis and Auguste who moved to Lyon in 1870 and shot the first reels of the world’s first motion picture, La Sortie des Usines Lumières (Workers Leaving the Lumière Factory), in 1895. Programmes include film screenings, exhibitions and heritage conservation projects. Address: 8th, 25 rue du Premier-Film, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7878 1895 Opening times: Tues-Sun 10:00-18:30. Website: www.institut-lumiere.org Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Musées des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs (Textiles and Decorative Arts Museums)

Since 1946, this museum has been situated in a 17th-century mansion, which used to be the residence of the Governor of Lyon. The museum houses a remarkable collection of over 1,000 textile samples from both Eastern and Western civilisations, throughout the ages, and tells the story of textiles, with particular focus on silk-manufacturing from the Renaissance to the present day. It also charts the development of Lyon as the European silk capital. Address: 2nd, 34 rue de la Charité, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7838 4200 Opening times: Tues-Sun 10:00-17:30. Website: www.musee-des-tissus.com Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: No UNESCO: No

• Maison des Canuts (Silk Weavers’ House)

Maison des Canuts is both a museum of silk weaving and a co-operative created to preserve the traditions of the industry and to sell its own designs. It has an important collection of historical textiles and houses examples of the famous Jacquard loom. With a guided tour narrated by authentic canuts (Lyonnais silk weavers), this museum offers a fascinating insight into the silk industry. Address: 4th, 10-12 rue d’Ivry, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7828 6204 Opening times: Tues-Sat 10:00-18:00 (guided tours at 11:00 and 15:30). Website: www.maisondescanuts.com Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Musée Gallo-Romain de Fourvière

On the archaeological site of Fourvière, this museum contains the richest excavation collections from Gaul after the National Museum of St-Germain-en-Laye. The museum was built around the remains of the archaeological site, partly underground, with subterranean passages connecting the various exhibits. Its collection comes primarily from discoveries made in Lyon and throughout the Rhône-Alpes region. Of special interest are the extraordinary series of inscriptions, statues, mosaics, sarcophagi and everyday objects from Gallo-Roman life. One of the museum’s most prized possessions is the Claudius Tablet, which contains fragments of a speech made by Emperor Claudius in front of the Roman Senate. Address: 5th, 17 rue Cléberg, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7238 4930 Opening times: Tues-Sun 11:00-18:00. Website: www.musees-gallo-romains.com Admission Fees: Yes (except for Thursdays). Disabled Access: No UNESCO: No

Tourist Offices

• Lyon Tourism and Conventions Bureau

Address: 2nd, Place Bellecour – BP 2254, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7277 6969 Opening times: Daily 09:00-18:00. Website: www.en.lyon-france.com Lyon’s handy main tourist office can supply maps, guides and directions and will help with hotel booking and more. Staff are friendly and fluent in English.

Tourist passes

The Lyon City Card is valid for one, two or three days. This card allows free and unlimited use of the city’s public transport, free access to over 20 museums, temporary exhibitions and the Biennial of Contemporary Art. It also includes guided and audio guided tours, an unusual visit to the rooftops of the Fourvière Basilica, access to the Observatory Tower of Fourvière and river cruises (from April to October). Cards are sold at the tourist office, many hotels, and Lyon TCLagencies (public transport offices).

Things to do in Lyon

• Catch a performance at the majestic Opera de Lyon

A striking city landmark Opera de Lyon’s Telephone: : +33 4 6985 5454 Website: www.opera-lyon.com Neoclassical facade is all the more stunning for the modern, semi-cylindrical glass roof structure. Only the grand foyer remains of the former theatre, but inside is a beautiful, contemporary space fitting for operatic performances. Explore human history in a beautiful modern building Serious investment in Lyon’s docklands has resulted in an area reinvigorated and its jewel is Musee Des Confluences Telephone: +33 4 2838 1190 Website: www.museedesconfluences.fr A shimmering glass and metal cloud of a building. Perched between the Saône and Rhône, the futuristic space is a curio of human history.

• Learn of Lyon’s reel history

The silver screen is a serious art form in France and Lyon is the home of cinema’s earliest pioneers, the Lumiere brothers. Using film and artefacts, the Institut Lumiere Telephone: +33 4 7878 1895 Website: www.institut-lumiere.org  tells the history of moving pictures and the first use of colour photography.

• Look around Lyon’s mini Louvre

With work by Rubens, Monet and Gauguin, it’s little wonder: The Musee des Beaux-Arts de Lyon Telephone: +33 4 7210 1740 Website: www.mba-lyon.fr Is affectionately known as the mini-Louvre. Such endearment doesthe museum a little disservice; this is an exceptional gallery in a beautiful, former Benedictine convent.

• Peek behind the closed doors of Vieux Lyon

France’s largest medieval town brims with Renaissance architecture and makes no secret of its UNESCO listing. It’s hiding something though; nudge a closed door and you may reveal a traboule (passageway). Once shortcuts to the river, the likes of: Passage Thiffait Website: www.villagedescreateurs.com  are blossoming as design hubs.

Lyon tours and excursions

Lyon tours

• Walking tours

Lyon’s tourist office offers a variety of walking tours in English and French. There are guided tours, such as the two hour ‘Old Lyon and the traboules’ tour and the ‘Lyon Renaissance district’ tour. The tourist office also offers an audio guided tour of Lyon, complete with an itinerary map and personal stereos for hire in four languages, including English. Self-guided tours are also available with the excellent guidebook World Heritage Excursions. These include ‘Presqu’île North’ and ‘Presqu’île South’ Telephone: +33 4 7277 6969 Website: www.lyon-france.com

• Bus tours

City Discovery runs the ‘Lyon Le Grand Tour’ on board an open-top double-decker. The 90-minute tour takes in Old Lyon, Fourvière Hill, the Saône River banks and many other sites and monuments. The tour departs from outside the tourist office on place Bellecour. Telephone: +44 20 7193 8320 (from the UK) Website: www.city-discovery.com

• Boat tours

Navig’inter Offers various river cruises, including the two-hour tour up the Saône River. The tours start and finish at quai Rambaud. Telephone: +33 4 7842 9681 Website: www.naviginter.fr

• Other tours

Cyclopolitain Offers thematic tours of Lyon in vélo taxis, Tuesday to Saturday. If you’re feeling energetic, Jogg’in City has jogging tours in the city centre. The tours last one hour and cover a distance of 5.5km (3.5 miles), with commentaries in English and French. Hotel pick-up. Cyclopolitain Vélo taxi et Visites Telephone: +33 6 2314 3008

Lyon excursions

• Pérouges

The medieval city of Pérouges, surrounded by green fields, is situated in the Dombes region, 34km (22 miles) from Lyon, accessible from exit 7 of the A42. Once inside the city’s ramparts, visitors are transported back to the Middle Ages with a fortress church, picturesque houses and shops. Other features include the Porte d’en Bas and Porte d’en Haut (lower and upper gates), which lead onto rue des Rondes and the Ostellerie (Hostelry) on place du Tilleul. The latter is one of the most beautiful residences in Pérouges, dating from the 13th century and listed as a historic monument. Telephone: +33 4 7446 7084 Website: www.perouges.org

• Beaujolais region

A day excursion in the Beaujolais region takes the visitor on a charming road through vineyards and can incorporate the Hameau en Beaujolais (Hamlet in Beaujolais), situated 30km (19 miles) from Lyon. The Hamlet is a living museum of vineyards and wine production, with guided tours lasting two hours. The price includes a free Beaujolais or Mâconnais wine-tasting session. Open daily, the Hamlet is accessible from Lyon via the A6, exiting at Belleville or by train from Lyon to Romanèche-Thorins. Visit Beaujolais tourist office, 68 rue de la République, Belleville sur Saône, for further information. Telephone: +33 4 7466 4467 Website: www.ot-beaujolaisvaldesaone.fr

• Les Grottes de la Balme (Grottos of Balme)

The Grottos of Balme are one of the most beautiful natural wonders of France, situated about 45km (28 miles) east of Lyon, between Crémieu and Lagnieu. There is a lake, a waterfall and many other natural features to explore. Entrance to the caves includes a guided tour. The caves are open from February to December. Guided tours in English must be booked beforehand. Visitors can reach the caves by following the signs to Crémieu, after exiting the A43 at Saint Quentin Fallavier. Telephone: +33 4 7490 6376 Website: www.grotteslabalme.com

Shopping in Lyon

Lyon is a shopper’s paradise. The area of the Presqu’île boasts the most attractive streets for shopping, such as rue Victor Hugo and rue de la République.

• Key areas

Rue du Président Herriot, with its elegant 19th-century buildings, makes it an ideal setting for its luxury boutiques. Fine antiques and old books can be found on rue Auguste Comte or at La Cité des Antiquaires, 117 boulevard Stalingrad in Villeurbanne. Lyon also boasts one of the finest chocolate factories in the world: Bernachon at 42 cours Franklin Roosevelt. Bouillet, 15 place de la Croix Rousse and 14 rue des Archers, works wonders with its ‘ganaches of chocolate’ and famous macaroons.

• Markets

Les Puces du Canal is Lyon’s historical flea market (Sunday 0600-1300), located on the outskirts of Lyon at 1 rue du Canal in Villeurbanne. To better understand why Lyon is a gourmet’s paradise, visit one of its food markets on quai St-Antoine or boulevard de la Croix-Rousse (Tuesday to Sunday mornings).

• Shopping centres

The Presqu’île area is where the big department stores like Printemps are located. For casual shopping, Lyon’s Part Dieu shopping centre, 17 rue du Docteur Bouchut, is ideal and is one of Europe’s largest, with over 230 stores, including the famous Galeries Lafayette. The Confluence is the site of Lyon’s newest and glitziest megamall, also called Le Centre Confluence. The tram goes here and there is also lots of car parking.

• Opening hours

Most shops are usually open from Monday to Saturday between 09:30 and 19:00 (some close between 12:00 and 14:00) but are closed on Sundays. Some small grocery stores are open on Sunday mornings.

•  Souvenirs

Rue Saint Jean in Vieux Lyon is the place to pick up a nice souvenir for folks back home. Leather goods, furniture and jewellery are all here as well as Lyonnais silk and fabrics. There are also a few delis around here to buy sausages, tinned confit duck legs, bottles of Burgundy and jars of foie gras.

• Tax information

VAT (Value Added Tax) can vary between 5% and 19.6%, depending on the goods bought. There is a tax free shopping scheme available for citizens from outside of the European Union. You must have spent more than €175 on the same day in the same store and obtain a valid customs stamp on final departure from the EU. Look for the Tax Free Shopping sticker in shop windows.

Restaurants in Lyon

Lyon boasts a large number of restaurants, some of them among the finest in France. Probably the most famous restaurant in Lyon is Paul Bocuse’s L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges (see below). If your budget doesn’t stretch that far, try some of Lyon’s specialities, like quenelles (seasoned balls or dumplings, usually made of meat), in a bouchon or traditional bistro. The restaurants below have been handpicked by the guide author and are grouped into three pricing categories: Expensive (over €60) Moderate (€15 to €60) Cheap (up to €15) These prices are for a three-course meal for one with drinks, tax and service included.

Expensive

• Le Neuvième Art

Cuisine: French Tasting menus of inventive, artfully plated modern French cuisine, in a sleek, pastel-hued space. Come discover a beautiful gastronomic address in Lyon, in the Brotteaux district and share a friendly moment while tasting the creative and colorful cuisine of chef Christophe Roure, Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2007. ​A stone’s throw from the Tête d’Or park and a few minutes from Part-Dieu, our five-star restaurant welcomes you in a room with sober and elegant decoration which perfectly accompanies the spirit of the dishes offered to you . Light wood tables, aerial tulip hangings, linen curtains bringing transparency and soft light adorn the room. Nature and green invite themselves in with discreet touches to create a very pleasant atmosphere. Address: 173 Rue Cuvier,  Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7274 1274 Website: www.leneuviemeart.com

• L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges

Cuisine: Haute cuisine Paul Bocuse’s Michelin-starred, luxury Lyon establishment is for serious foodies with serious cash. Delights like truffle soup, created for former French president Valéry Giscard d’Estaing, are prepared with the freshest ingredients and exquisite care. The restaurant is located 4km (2.5miles) north of Lyon on the banks of the Saône River. Address: Collonges au Mont d’Or, 40 rue de la Plage, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7242 9090 Website: www.bocuse.fr

• Les Terrasses de Lyon

Cuisine: French The winning combination of sensational views over the city and creatively executed dishes help Les Terrasses de Lyon secure its position as one of the five-star gastronomic restaurants in Lyon. Reservations are a must. Address: 25 Montée Saint-Barthélémy. Telephone: +33 4 7256 5602 Website: www.villaflorentine.com/fr

Moderate

• Brasserie Georges

Cuisine: Brasserie This popular Lyon brasserie, which opened in 1836, still dishes up traditional dishes in grand art deco surrounding. Opt for the plat du jour, one of the famous choucroutes (dressed sauerkraut, a plateau de fruits de mer (seafood platter) – or order from the tempting a la carte menu. The beer is brewed on the premises. Address: 2nd, 30 cours de Verdun, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7256 5454 Website: www.brasseriegeorges.com

• Étoile d’Asie

Cuisine: Vietnamese L’Etoile d’Asie is faithful to authentic Vietnamese flavours which is a rare thing in Lyon. Expect warm, friendly service and great food. You’ll leave this place happy. Address: 13 Rue Cavenne, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7872 4995 Website: www.etoiledasielyon.wordpress.com

• La Mère Jean

Cuisine: Traditional Lyonnais To get, quite literally, to the heart of Lyon traditional food, stop at the rowdy La Mère Jean with its wooden dining booths, stone floors and low ceilings. This welcoming bouchon (a traditional Lyonnais eatery) serves wonderful local specialities like quenelle de brochet (pike dumpling), but the most popular dishes here include boudin noir (blood sausage), onion tart, andouillette (pork and intestines sausage, flavoured with pepper, wine and onion) and ris de veau (calf belly sweetbread). Casual and friendly, it welcomes diners without reservations. Address: 2nd, 5 rue des Marronniers, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7837 8127 Website: www.lamerejean.fr

Cheap

• Chez Mounier

Cuisine: Lyonnais The authentic regional dishes served in the intimate surroundings of this neighbourhood bouchon (a traditional Lyonnais eatery) are tasty and unpretentious. Service is friendly and the atmosphere is relaxed with little more than chatter filling the air. In the warmer months, try and get a table outside. Booking recommended. Address: 1st, 3 rue des Marronniers, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7837 7926 Website: www.chez-mounier-restaurant-lyon.eatbu.com

• L’Épicerie

Cuisine: French L’Épicerie serves up home-made soup and tartines (open-faced sandwiches) in what looks like a vintage grocery store setting. Address: 2 Rue de la Monnaie, Lyon.

• La Cave d’à Côté

Cuisine: Cold platters La Cave d’à Côté is a place for oenophiles to come and drool. This converted wine cellar has become one of Lyon’s coolest wine bars and restaurants, where dozens of appellations are the stars and local bottles are a speciality. Accompanying them are huge sharing platters of pork pies, sausages, cheeses and pickles, which allude to a night of shared and relaxed dining on a budget – but still one with sophistication. Address: 1st, 7 rue Pleney, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7828 3146

Lyon Nightlife

The best way to see the city’s architectural heritage is by night, when over 100 sites are illuminated. Old Lyon, the banks of the Saône, the Presqu’île and Croix Rousse are the liveliest districts and there are a wide variety of bars and pubs scattered all over the city. It is not always easy to choose between Irish, English, Latino, Cuban and other rather exotic watering holes, or even the traditional Lyonnais bars. The presence in Lyon of prestigious cultural institutions, such as the National Opera, the Célestins Theatre and the Lumière Institute, contribute to the city’s international reputation and strong cultural influence. Remember to check and see if there are DJs in town or even music festivals like the legendary

• Nuits Sonores

Website: www.nuits-sonores.com  which takes over all the city’s clubs and hosts huge mega raves in the old factories of Confluence for one weekend every May. Excellent information about all cultural events in Lyon can be found online at

• Eldorado

Website: www.eldorado.fr    And in local newspapers and magazines, such as

• Lyon Poche

Website: www.lyonpoche.com

•  Le Petit bulletin

Website: www.petit-bulletin.fr

• Lyon Capitale

Website: www.lyoncapitale.fr Tickets for theatrical or musical events can be bought from the booking offices directly or from

• FNAC

Address: 85 rue de la République. Telephone: +33 825 020 020 Website: www.fnactickets.com

Bars in Lyon

• Café du Soleil

Café du Soleil is a traditional Lyonnais café, perfect for an early-evening aperitif. Situated in a small and charming area of Lyon, this is one of the oldest cafés in the city, having been here for two centuries. It’s a friendly alternative to the large fashionable nightspots of the city centre. You can also try Le 110 Vins next door for traditional Lyonnais fare and an impressive wine list of over 300 wines. Address: 4th, 2 rue Saint Georges, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7837 6002 Website: www.cafe-du-soleil.fr

• Docks 40

Right on the water, down in the Confluence, Docks 40 is a place to come and be seen. Local media workers from the city’s newspapers and radio stations based over the road, and from Euronews whose headquarters are nearby, congregate with an arty, young set and office workers who want to let their hair down. It gets very lively on Friday nights in the spot they pioneered playing of hip hop swing. Address: 2nd, 40 Quai Rambaud, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7840 4040 Website: www.docks40.com

•  Péniche Loupika

Here we have one of Lyon’s most relaxing, yet most lively bars, where they also serve delicious snacks and light meals. How do they manage it all? Because Péniche Loupika is a bar on a boat. The water below, seen from the open deck, gives that relaxed summer holiday feel, yet after dark it’s more like an Ibiza boat party. Things always stay civilised though, especially in the summer, when locals stay cool beneath the boat’s parasols and their sunglasses. Address: 47 Quai Rambaud, Lyon. Telephone: +33 9 8436 2821 Website: www.loupika.com

• Wallace Pub

It is your typical pub nothing more, nothing less. It is good for a quick bite. Go there for the hot dog and will very appointed that it looked like the picture and very excited. In the heart of Vieux Lyon, this relaxed pub does a neat line in beers and stodgy food. The fish ‘n’ chips and burgers here should line the stomach before you tackle the wide range of whiskies available at the bar, which itself has a distinctly British feel Address: 8 Rue de la Claire, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7209 9793 Website: www.wallacepub.com

Clubs in Lyon

• Loft Club Lyon

A general club, LOFT CLUB LYON has been the Lyonnaise Institution for 25 years in 2022. Created in 1997, going from a rock club to a concert venue, It has evolved over the years and always been at the cutting edge: a new exterior and interior design, a new light show, C02 and confetti, laser and pyrotechnics, current general music programming of the moment! Address: 7 Rue Renan, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7276 5500 Website: www.loftclub.fr

• Le Sucre

Absolutely the hottest club in Lyon by some margin, Le Sucre takes over the top levels of the incredible La Sucriere, the old sugar processing plant that’s recognisable by the huge ‘GAUCHE’ and ‘DROITE’ labels painted on its towers. Offering a mixture of hot live bands and cutting-edge DJs, Lyon’s hippest crowd gather to take it all in. Address: 2nd, 50 Quai Rambaud, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 2782 6940 Website: www.le-sucre.eu

• Yes Hot Spot

Popular with a chic crowd, you can either chill at Yes Hot Spot, or dance the night away if you want. Each of its three themed rooms offers a different experience from a rustic smoking room to a plush VIP back via a modish club space. In all of them you’ll find dolled-up locals drinking whisky and colas, preening and flirting with each other. Address: 4th, 12 quai St Vincent, Lyon. Telephone: +33 6 6473 1212

Live music in Lyon

• Le Marché Gare

Le Marché Gare, a recent addition to Lyon’s live music scene, promotes new acts from reggae to heavy metal. It’s located in a former train station, so the venue has an industrial edge, but thanks to the plethora of touring music acts that it attracts, it’s the type of sweatbox you’ll want to dress down for anyway. Address: 4-6 Pl. Hubert Mounier, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7240 9713 Website: www.marchegare.fr

• Le Transbordeur

Le Transbordeur has two performance spaces: a larger one for established international acts and a smaller stage for local bands. It’s been open since 1989 and established itself as a key place in Lyon to see live music. The atmosphere is slightly less raucous than smaller spit ‘n’ sawdust venues elsewhere in town, but still a great place to get your musical fix nonetheless. Address: 6th, 3 boulevard Stalingrad, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7893 0833 Website: www.transbordeur.fr

Classical music in Lyon

• Auditorium

The Auditorium is the permanent residence of the Lyon National Orchestra. Since 2000, this symphony orchestra, comprising over 100 musicians, has acquired an international reputation throughout the world. Here at Lyon’s Auditorium, they hold wonderful concerts and welcome other orchestras from around the world too. The building itself, designed by Charles Delfante and Henri Pottier, is a concrete marvel that looks like the hull of a huge ocean liner. Address: 3rd, 149 Rue Garibaldi, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7895 9595 Website: www.auditoriumlyon.com

• National Opera

One of Lyon’s most prestigious cultural venues, the National Opera houses several institutions. Among them is the Opera Orchestra, which started in 1983, with young musicians and experienced conductors. It alternates classical repertoire works with new compositions. Address: 1 place de la comédie, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 6985 5454 Website: www.opera-lyon.com

Dance in Lyon

• Maison de la Danse

The Maison de la Danse theatre was created in 1980. The company is completely devoted to choreography, with an emphasis on new productions, but it welcomes French and foreign productions too. The wide variety of dance on show is only matched by the wide variety of drinks in the venue’s pleasant bar – perfect for a post-show tipple. Address: 8th, 8 avenue Jean Mermoz, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7278 1800 Website: www.maisondeladanse.com

Theatres in Lyon

• Célestins Theatre

From classical to contemporary, all styles of theatre are well represented in Lyon, and the oldest playhouse in the city, Célestins Theatre, can boast two centuries of continuous dramatic activity. It welcomes Parisian shows as well as regional companies, with productions ranging from classical theatre to modern music hall. Address: 2nd, 4 rue Charles Dullin, Lyon. Telephone: +33 4 7277 4000 Website: www.celestins-lyon.org

• Théatre La Maison de Guignol

Lyon was also the birthplace of the theatrical puppet figure known as Guignol, which was created in 1808 by Laurent Mourguet. The show, which is aimed towards children but has plenty of sharp-tongued witticisms for adults, is still alive today at the Théatre La Maison de Guignol. Even if you’re not catching a show, the building is fantastic space too with a bar and dining options aside from the petit main hall. Address: 4th, 2 montée du Gourguillon St Georges-Vieux, Lypn. Telephone: +33 4 7240 2661 Website: www.lamaisondeguignol.fr

Lyon Food And Drink

10 Best Local Dishes in Lyon The best local dishes from Lyon have been staples since the 16^th century. It’s believed that chefs, brought from Florence by Catherine de Medici, combine the region’s fresh produce with their cooking expertise. The result is Lyon’s longstanding fame as France’s capital of gastronomy. With more than 4,000 restaurants, the city has plenty of dishes to discover, both from popular culture and bourgeois tradition. Lyon is also famous for its sausages and cheeses, both of which make excellent accompaniments for an aperitif with a glass of red wine. Check out our guide to famous food locals love to eat in Lyon.

• Salade Lyonnaise A delightful green salad

Salade Lyonnaise is a simple and delicious green salad in Lyon. It combines bitter frisée lettuce, crispy bacon lardons, and croutons, and a soft poached egg. There’s also a version with chicken livers. All are coated with a punchy dressing made of Dijon mustard and walnut oil. The curly Lyonnaise salad is popular in Lyon’s bouchon (bistros) and across France. It can be served as an appetiser or as a light lunch with some bread and cheese.

• Quenelle A flavourful pride of Lyon

Quenelle is an iconic speciality of Lyon that dates back to the 19^th century. This dish has tender oval-shaped dumplings typically filled with creamed pike, a type of freshwater white fish. They can also contain meat, poultry, or vegetables combined with flour, breadcrumbs, or cabbage dough. Quenelle is usually poached in water or broth, before being served in a creamy sauce. You can enjoy these light dumplings as appetisers or the main course. Thanks to its rather subtle taste, it’s often accompanied with rice, veal, and vegetables.

• Pâté en croute modern varieties of this medieval dish

Pâté en croute consists of a meat pâté wrapped in a pastry and baked until crispy. This Lyon dish is so popular that the city even hosts a chefs’ championship on the innovative preparation of the dish. You’ll be pleased to discover the flavourful taste of the pâté. It’s traditionally cooked with meat marinated in a mixture of wine, bay leaves, and spices. The filling can be pork with duck foie gras, but veal, chicken, and rabbit are common alternatives. You can enjoy pâté en croute cut in slices as an appetiser, or as a main course with a green salad.

• Poulet Célestine A chicken dish dating back to the 19th century

Poulet Célestine is a traditional chicken dish with a romantic backstory. In 1860, Jacques Rousselot, a talented young chef, invented the dish as a way of expressing his feelings to Celestine, a beautiful widow who managed the du Cercle restaurant. Poulet Célestine contains sautéed chicken, mushrooms, and tomatoes, along with a sauce made with cognac, white wine, and various spices. Enjoy this savoury dish with a glass of red wine – and your other half.

• Tablier de sapeur traditional local main course

Tablier de sapeur is one of the most typical specialities of Lyon. The dish appeared during the time of Napoleon III – it literally means the ‘sapper’s apron’’ thanks to its resemblance to leather aprons worn by soldiers during the 19^th century. Tablier de sapeur is made of beef tripes marinated in white wine, lemon juice, mustard, and spices. Then, it’s covered in breadcrumbs and pan-fried until golden. Pair this dish with mayonnaise-like gribiche (hardboiled egg) sauce, potatoes, seasonal vegetables, or a green salad.

• Rosette de Lyon The most well-known Lyon sausage

Rosette de Lyon is one of the most famous local sausages. This high-quality cured pork sausage is traditionally flavoured with wine, sea salt, garlic, and various herbs. The natural sausage skin is then covered with black pepper. Rosette de Lyon, which can be 1 metre long, is strung and dried for several months. You’ll appreciate the sausage’s distinctive flavour by enjoying it sliced into thick slices and served as an aperitif, paired with local cheeses and red wine.

Set between the winding Rhône and Saône Rivers in Rhône-Alpes, marvellous Lyon has evolved from the Roman capital of Gaul to become a lively food and arts destination with a buzzy medieval heart. A plethora of accommodation options await both business and leisure travellers, ranging from cheerful heritage B&Bs to sumptuous former convents with Michelin-starred eateries. Our list of the best places to stay in Lyon is a wonderful starting point for planning your trip! Strolls through the cobbled streets of Lyon’s Old Town, on the Saône’s western bank, are a must. This is a fascinating neighbourhood, brimming with cafés, bars and eateries. Foodies will also adore the restaurants dotted along the 19th-century boulevards of central Lyon, the popular wholesale market, and the riverside food markets where locals gather to taste and haggle over fresh seasonal produce. To savour traditional stews and sausages, pick a perch at a ‘bouchon’ — the city’s classic twist on the pub and bistro — and tuck in. For a sense of the city’s history, look to the Gallo-Roman Museum and visit Lyon’s ancient theatres. The Musée des Beaux-Arts houses a terrific collection, whilst the Musée Lumière, the Musée des Confluences and the WWII Museum are also particular stand-outs. As with many French cities, the best places to stay in Lyon fill up fast during the summer months and the school holidays, so book your holiday well in advance.