Naples

Naples Travel Guide

• About Naples

Naples and Napoli are the same. Napoli is the Italian and local name for the city. Naples is that exciting friend who you don’t know whether to party with or call the police on. It’s easy to take fright at its chaotic, moped-clogged streets, or turn away from its disintegrating, locked up churches that would be treasures in any other city. But southern Italy’s biggest conurbation is an exhilarating too: it’s a palace in the shadow of Vesuvius, with Pompeii down the road and Capri a mere boat trip away. It’s an ancient Mediterranean outpost that existed long before the Italian state, pre-dating the Roman Republic by centuries. That’s why it has a world-beating collection of ancient Greek and Roman artefacts in the National Museum of Archaeology – every time a new building goes up, some wonder of the city’s immense past is discovered. To get to grips with Naples, head to the legendary Spaccanapoli, the street that runs through the historic centre. Wander its narrow, cobbled lanes where women in open doorways lament at the news and old men play cards in medieval piazzas. Explore its little cafés and shops, hidden beneath porticoes of crumbling stone. This might not be the Naples you’ve heard of, but Mayor Luigi de Magistris has done much to clean up the city’s image in recent years. He resolved the long-running rubbish collection crisis and pedestrianised the seafront; the city’s dingy subway has been revamped with jaw-dropping art. It’s time to scale the ramparts at Castel Nuovo again, to watch the waves roll in. Perhaps stroll along a dusk-lit waterfront to select a seafood restaurant. Spend time staring at frescoes by Carvaggio or take pleasure in preserved Pompeii. You could even row into the breathtaking Blue Grotto at nearby Capri. Naples still has its share of problems, not helped by the financial crisis which led the city to the brink of bankruptcy. But volatility is part of its character – it blends classical sophistication with contemporary bedlam. That’s why it’s Italy’s most heady and intoxicating city.

• Naples History

Dating back some 4,000 years, Naples is one of the oldest cities in the world. Greek settlers established an early colony here about 2,000 BC, and by the 6th century BC they had erected the ancient city of Neapolis. The distinct Neapolitan culture was born then and survived even after the Romans conquered the area. After Roman times, Naples was ruled by a succession of Goths, Byzantines, Lombards and Normans. In the 12th century it became part of the Kingdom of Sicily and in 1266, the capital was moved from Palermo to Naples. The ruler at the time was Charles of Anjou, who refashioned Castel Nuovo as his residence. Many churches were built in thevGothic style, including the cathedral of Naples. Conflicts between Angevins, Aragonese and others saw Naples change hands several times, but under the latter the city turned into a centre of the Italian Renaissance in the 15th century. In the 16th century, Naples came under the control of the Spanish Empire and the city grew to become one of the largest in Europe with a population of 300,000 at its peak. Many prestigious artists were nurtured here including Carvaggio and Bernini. There were briefly successful efforts in the 17th and 18th centuries to establish a Neapolitan republic, until Napoleon conquered the city in 1805. After his defeat, it again became a capital of the united Kingdom of Two Sicilies, and finally joined the newly unified Italy in 1861. The region’s strong identity made it one of the most difficult to assimilate into the new state. While in the 18th century Naples was a prime destination for Grand Tour travellers, the city struggled to regain its allure in the 19th and 20th centuries. Naples has often been troubled, ridden with crime, poverty and corruption. The region was famously in the grip of the mafia for many years, though there are signs that things are changing. In spite of the economic crisis that struck Italy from 2007-2011, the city has combated its reputation and is now making strides in recovering its eminence as a cultural centre.

• Did you know?

After conquest by the Romans, the Neapolitan region became a holiday resort thanks to its glorious climate. The great Roman poet, Virgil, is buried in a mighty tomb in the Piedigrotta district. In 1943, Naples became the first Italian city to rise up against Nazi occupation. The Allied forces already found it free when they arrived in the city following the invasion of Sicily.

• Weather in Naples

With the Maggio dei Monumenti cultural festival in full swing and the weather pleasant and warm, May is one of the best months to visit Naples. June is also good, otherwise it is best to wait until the summer rush has subsided and plan your trip for September or October. September is another great month for festivals, including Pizzafest, and you’ll have avoided the painfully high prices of July and August.

Things to see in Naples

Attractions

• Spaccanapoli

This warren of laundry-hung lanes features street-side shrines, heirloom businesses, local lottery shops and tightly packed families in medieval palazzi. Originally the ancient Roman road that bisected the town, wander its length from Via Benedetto Croce in the east to Via Vicaria Vecchia in the west, taking in the lively Piazza Maggiore along the way. Address: Naples. Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Teatro San Carlo

Commissioned by King Charles of Bourbon and opened in 1737, this opera house is the oldest working theatre in Europe and is famous for its pitch-perfect acoustics. Its six gilded tiers and frescoed canopy make for a magnificent evening experience, especially amid a vociferous Neapolitan crowd. Guided tours of the building are given daily. Address: Via San Carlo 98, Naples. Telephone: +39 81 797 2331 Opening times: Mon-Sat 10:30-17:30, Sun 10:30-14:00. Website: www.teatrosancarlo.it  Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Museo Archeologico Nazionale

This magnificent archaeological museum houses some of the world’s most significant Greco-Roman antiquities and mosaics which sit alongside stunning Etruscan and Egyptian pieces from the royal Bourbon and Borgia collections. It also has numerous artefacts from Pompeii. In the Secret Room, visitors can see a collection of ancient erotic artwork. Address: Historic centre, Piazza Museo Nazionale 19, Naples. Telephone: +39 81 442 2149 Opening times: Daily 09:00-19:30. Website: www.mann-napoli.it Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Pompeii

Naples is a good base for exploring the ruins of Pompeii. Destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD, the excavated Roman town lies about an hour away by train. Lost for more than 1,500 years, it has been a tourist site for over two centuries. Much of this has to do with the remarkable preservation of the town and its artefacts due to lack of air and moisture after its burial. For a taste of life in southern Italy nearly two millennia ago, Pompeii is as good as a time machine. Address: Pompeii, Naples. Telephone: +39 81 857 5111 Opening times: Mon-Sun 08:30-19:30. Website: www.pompeiisites.org  Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Chiesa Santa Maria della Sanità & Catacomba di San Gaudioso

Beneath the Chiesa Santa Maria della Sanità are the catacombs of St Gaudioso, a North African bishop who died in Naples in 452 AD. Accessed by a staircase beneath the altar, you can glimpse mosaics and frescoes dating back to the 5th century. English language tours should be booked at least four days in advance. Address: Historic centre, Piazza Sanità 14, Naples. Telephone: +39 81 744 3714 Opening times: Thurs-Tue 09:30-17:00. Website: www.le-catacombe-di-san-gaudioso.it Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: No UNESCO: Yes

• Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte

Set in lush gardens on a hill overlooking the city, this palace was built in 1738 by Charles of Bourbon and houses an outrageously extravagant collection of medieval, Renaissance and baroque art in its 160 rambling rooms. The great and the good are on the first floor, including Bellini, Botticelli, Masaccio, Titian and Caravaggio. Address: Via Miano 2, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 749 9130 Opening times: Thurs-Tue 08:30-19:30. Website: www.museocapodimonte.beniculturali.it Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• San Domenico Maggiore

Dating back to Charles of Anjou’s original commission in 1238, this is one of Naples’ most important churches. Today it’s a fusion of different styles, with remnants of the original church and elements of the 17th-century baroque makeover seen through its 1850 neo-Gothic restoration. The chapel inside is dedicated to Thomas Aquinas. Address: Historic centre, Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 8, Naples. Telephone: +39 333 863 8997 Opening times: Daily 09:00-18:00. Website: www.domasandomenicomaggiore.it Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Castel Nuovo

The colossal castle on the city’s seafront, known as Maschio Angioino, is as glorious as it is imposing. Built as the royal residence and military headquarters of the Angevins, it now houses a gallery with works from the Renaissance and other periods. There’s also an armoury and its historic Palatine chapel. Address: Piazza Municipio, Naples. Telephone: +39 81 795 7713 Opening times: Mon-Sat 08:30-17:30. Website: www.comune.napoli.it Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Il Duomo

Built in the early 14th century, Naples’ cathedral is dedicated to the city’s patron, San Gennaro. His blood is kept vials to protect the city from a fatal Vesuvian eruption. The highlight is the baroque chapel of St Gennaro with its ceiling frescoes and Giuseppe de Ribera’s canvas of St Gennaro Escaping the Furnace Unscathed. Address: Via del Duomo 147, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 449 097 Opening times: Mon-Fri 09:00-17:30, Sat-Sun 08:30-13:30. Website: www.chiesadinapoli.it Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Stazioni d’Arte

The city has sought to reinvigorate its metro stations by inviting renowned artists from across the globe to contribute installations, sculptures, photography, and more. Curated by Italy’s foremost art critic, Achille Bonito Oliva, the once dirty and unwelcoming underground network has revitalised Naples’ arts scene and helped to reduce congestion on the roads. Address: Various, Naples. Telephone: +39 81 227 2111 Opening times: Sun-Thu 06:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 06:00-02:00. Website: www.metropolitanadinapoli.it Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

Tourist Offices

• Osservatorio Turistico

Address: Colonnato di San Francesco di Paola, Piazza del Plebiscito 12, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 1948 4893 Opening times: Daily 09:00-19:00. Website: www.comune.napoli.it The official, municipal information office in the city is the Osservatorio Turistico, which is situated on the grand Piazza del Plebiscito, near Castel Nuovo.

Tourist passes

Valid for three days, the:

• Naples Artecard

Telephone: +39 6 3996 7650 Website: www.campaniartecard.it Is an integrated card that offers free or reduced entry to more than 40 attractions in the city, including museums, archaeological sites and underground tours, and free travel on the city’s transport system. The card is available from the train station, news agencies and hotels as well as participating museums.

Things to do in Naples

• Dive among geothermal currents

As well as delighting with its patchwork of pastel coloured buildings, the tiny island of Procida is the location for some of the region’s best diving. Geothermal currents attract a wide array of sea life to the clear waters. Napoli Diving Center Telephone: +39 334 564 1480 Website: www.napolidivingcenter.it offer lessons, equipment and boats to the island.

• Explore the Blue Grotto sea cave by boat

Ferries and high-speed hydrofoils leave daily from Naples to the islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida, and bobbing boats are available for hire for island tours and trips to the famous Blue Grotto sea cave. Capri’s natural wonder is a region highlight, and trips with Motoscafisti di Capri Telephone: +39 81 837 5646 Website: www.motoscafisticapri.com are plain sailing.

• Hike along the mountain paths of the Amalfi Coast

From walking around the vast archaeological ruins of Pompeii, Herculaneum and the Parco Archeologico di Baia, to scaling the slopes of Vesuvius, Naples boasts spectacular and varied hikes. Tread the sheer mountain paths of the Amalfi Coast for wonderful views over precipitous sea cliffs and across acres of lemon groves.

• Hit the beaches near Vesuvius

Relax and swap the hectic city for a few carefree days at the beach. Running alongside Via Partenope is the city’s own 2.5km (1.5 miles) shoreline stretch, with fantastic views of Vesuvius. The best out-of-town beaches lie west of Sorrento and further south at Santa Maria di Castellabate.

• Relax in the local thermal baths

One of the real treats of the region’s volcanic geology is the numerous thermal springs and spas for which Campania has long been famous. Unwind at: Terme Stufe di Nerone Telephone: +39 081 868 8006 Website: www.termestufedinerone.it modelled on ancient Roman baths. For more luxury, take the easy day trip to Ischia, which has 56 natural springs.

Naples tours and excursions

Naples tours

• Bus tours

City Sightseeing Napoli offers several bus tours of the city and the surrounding region from April to October. The tours include an art tour, a tour of the Bay of Naples, a San Martino tour and also a trip to Vesuvius. Open-top buses are used within the city. Telephone: +39 081 551 7279 Website: www.city-sightseeing.it 

• Walking tours

Napoli Sotterranea offers guided tours of the ancient caves and aqueducts beneath the city. Descend 40 metres (130ft) below the surface to discover columned rooms, WWII shelters and catacombs with an experienced guide. Tours last a minimum of 90 minutes. Telephone: +39 081 296 944 Website: www.napolisotterranea.org 

Naples excursions

• Mount Vesuvius

At 1281m (4,203ft), Vesuvius is Europe’s only active volcano and has erupted more than 30 times since it first took form in AD 79. Constantly monitored for signs of life, observers worry that an eruption is long overdue (there hasn’t been any activity for 500 years). The area around the volcano was declared a national park in 1995, and it is possible for visitors to climb to the top. Take the path up to the crater from the car park at the summit. Half way up, stop at the Museo dell’Osservatorio Vesuviano, which tells the long history of the volcano. Telephone: +39 081 610 8483 Website: www.parconazionaledelvesuvio.it

• Capri

For a taste of Amalfi glamour and pure Old World holiday glitz, take a quick hydrofoil from Naples to the island of Capri. Rising out of an impossibly blue sea, Capri is a beguiling combination of natural and man-made beauty. Charming, pastel-coloured towns with cobbled streets sit amidst a verdant natural setting of citrus groves. Drink expensive cocktails on the main piazza of Capri Town, visit the stunning sea cave, the Blue Grotto, and eat exquisite seafood on flower-laden terraces. Telephone: +39 081 837 0424 Website: www.capritourism.com

Shopping in Naples

Naples may not be the home of Italian high fashion but it is a city full of artisans and heirloom businesses and one where the price of a tailor-made suit will leave you with some change in your pocket. There are numerous small shops dotted around the old town selling local wines, handmade clothing and antiques. The business centre of the city features a number of higher-end shops with designer labels.

• Key areas

Via Toledo is the main shopping street in Naples, where many high-street fashion brands are located. You will also find exclusive shops along Via Chiaia and in parts of Vomero. Head to Spaccanapoli for individual shops selling everything from bespoke shoes and suits to jewellery and groceries.

• Markets

Mercato di Porta Nolana and La Pignasecca are Naples’ most high profile markets. Both are renowned for their super fresh produce and fish, along with a whole heap of household and counterfeit goods. There’s a vintage book market on via Port’Alba on weekday afternoons, and on the last two weekends of every month the Fiera Antiquaria Napoletana antiques market sets up in Villa Comunale (08:00-14:00).

• Shopping centres

The best shopping mall in Naples has to be the enormous Centro Commerciale Auchan on Via Argine, which houses everything from Auchan to Zarmax underneath its roof.

• Opening hours

Shops in Naples are open Monday to Saturday from 09:00-13:00 and 16:00-20:00. Supermarkets and department stores stay open all day, and are open on Sundays.

• Souvenirs

In the streets around Spaccanapoli, such as Via dei Tribunali and Via Duomo, there are various little shops for picking up souvenirs. Visitors will find elaborate religious crafts, especially nativity scenes, as well as traditional Neapolitan masks. The good luck charm known as Pulcinella, which depicts a black-masked man clownishly dressed in white, is also a must-buy.

• Tax information

Value-added tax (IVA) of 21% is added to every purchase in Italy. If you are a non-EU resident, and spend more than €155 on a single item, you can claim a tax refund when you leave the country. The refund is only available from shops that display a ‘tax free Italy’ sign.

Restaurants in Naples

Simple, seasonal and fresh – that is the mantra of the Neapolitan chef in a city obsessed with mama’s home cooking. Other Italian cities doff their caps in respect at Neapolitan gastronomy. After all this is the home of pizza.It is where the seafood literally flip-flops onto your plate from the fishing boats in the quay and where the fertile slopes of Vesuvius yield lip-smacking red wines and complex, fruity whites. The Naples restaurants below have been hand-picked by our guide author and are grouped into three pricing categories: Expensive (over €50) Moderate (€20 to €50) Cheap (up to €20) These Naples restaurant prices are for a three-course meal for one and include tax, service and half a bottle of house wine or equivalent.

Expensive

• Ciro

Cuisine: Italian In a romantic lamp-lit setting, by the harbour with boats bobbing on the water, Ciro has been a local institution since 1936. It’s tempting to go for the seafood, which is cooked fresh on a charcoal grill, but there are other restaurants serving more flavourful fish in the city. Try the fish-topped pizza here instead. Ciro is more about location: the view out to Del’Ova, gloriously lit on the dark sea at night, is stunning. while the restaurant is elegant with smart waiters and fine wines. Address: Via Luculliana 29-30, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 764 6006 Website: www.ristoranteciro.it

• La Bersagliera

Cuisine: Italian With views of the city from the enchanting Borgo Marinari, La Bersagliera is a traditional Neapolitan restaurant serving typical local dishes such as raw seafood salad and spaghetti with clams and fresh tomatoes. Established in 1919 to serve sailors a simple breakfast, the restaurant retains its classic décor with an ornate stucco ceiling and the original tables and chairs. In summer you can dine alfresco overlooking the bay. Address: Borgo Marinari 10/11, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 764 6016 Website: www.labersagliera.it

• Terrazza Calabritto

Cuisine: Italian It is an emotional journey that accompanies our guests to discover our gastronomy, in which traditions are intertwined with the modernity of new culinary techniques, enhancing the typical flavors of the Mediterranean, in which the ingredients have new forms of expression. And it is precisely with the desire to revive the most ancient and profound gastronomic culture that Terrazza Calabritto invites you to live a unique experience. Address: P.zza Vittoria, 1, 80121 Napoli. Telephone: +39 081 240 5188 Website: www.terrazzacalabritto.it

Moderate

• Da Dora

Cuisine: Italian Located in the Chiaia area, Da Dora is considered by many to be the best seafood restaurant in Naples. Despite being visited by the likes of Georgio Armani, it remains utterly unpretentious with the focus firmly on the daily seafood catch. The kitchen is open to the street, where you can see the huge charcoal grill crammed with plump John Dory, charcoaled clams and sweet spiny lobster. Address: Via Ferdinando Palasciano 30, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 680 519 Website: www.ristorantedora.it

• La Trattoria dell’Oca

Cuisine: Italian Painted in creamy yellow hues, with exposed brick walls lined with aging Campanian wines, Trattoria dell’Oca exudes great warmth and character. Careful attention to classic Neapolitan dishes is the signature of this restaurant where Franco and Peppino prepare salted cod with cherry tomatoes and capers, and courgette pasta with mussels. Wash them down with a well-rounded glass of Aglianico from the nearby town of Benevento. Address: Via Santa Teresa a Chiaia 11, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 414 865

• Sorbillo

Cuisine: Italian Considering that Naples is Italy’s pizza capital, it’s impressive enough that Sorbillo is producing the best example of the city’s staple, let alone doing it with such aplomb. Claiming to make some of the oldest pizza in Italy, this restaurant dates back to 1935 and continues to create a traditional Neapolitan version of the world’s favourite pie. Expect soft bread that melts in your mouth, fresh ingredients and thick, creamy cheese. Don’t wait until you’re starving to visit, though, as there’s nearly always a huge queue, whether it’s lunch or dinner. Address: Historic centre, Via dei Tribunali 32, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 446 643 Website: www.sorbillo.it

Cheap

• L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele

Cuisine: Italian Veteran pizza makers, the Condurro family have been knocking out classic Neapolitan pizzas for five generations. There are only two varieties: the Marinara (seafood) and the Margherita (tomato, cheese and basil). The secret of their success is super fresh ingredients and a method of leavening the pizza dough for over 12 hours. Don’t be deterred by the references to the film Eat, Pray, Love starring Julia Roberts, in which Da Michele makes a cameo. The only star of this old pizzeria is the food. So join the queue, take your ticket and wait to be called to one of the marble-topped tables to sample the magic yourself. Address: Via Cesare Sersale 1, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 553 9204 Website: www.damichele.net

• La Chiacchierata

Cuisine: Italian This is a small family-owned restaurant serving local specialities. It is centrally located just off the central Piazza Plebescito and attracts a crowd of lunching professionals (it is only open for lunch). The menu is a mix of homegrown vegetables and homemade dishes such as baby octopus in tomato sauce and a bubbling baked aubergine layered with mozzarella. Address: Piazetta Matilde Serao 37, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 411 465

• La Taverna del Buongustaio

Cuisine: Italian Located close to one of Naples largest fresh produce markets, La Pignasecca, this taverna serves vibrant, flavoursome food at great prices. Order the mixed antipasti and you’ll be confronted with a dozen little plates filled with delicacies like meatballs, spaghetti with squid ink, lentil soup and freshly fried fish. The white-tiled dining room is frill-free and there’s often no menu as the cook serves whatever is fresh from the market. Address: Via Basilio Puoti 8, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 551 2626

Naples Nightlife

Naples is a vivacious city and has a cultural life to match. More than just mandolins and tenors, the city has one of the liveliest nightlife scenes in Italy. A huge student population means there are plenty of bars ranging from grungy to sophisticated, where you can drink molten black coffee, talk world politics and discuss Dante. On the weekends, the piazzas brim with people drinking bottled beers, especially in summer. Clubs usually open at 2230 and fill up after midnight. Many close in July and August when they move to out-of-town beach locations. It isn’t just students who love a night out. All Neapolitans have a theatrical bent, which means the city is well served with opera, live music, theatre and dance productions.

Bars in Naples

• 66 Fusion Bar

Found on a little street buzzing with a clutch of cool locales, this stylish bar is great for a pre-dinner aperitivo accompanied by a plentiful (and delicious) buffet, or a pre-club cocktail. Easy jams from the DJ and low lighting provide a laidback atmosphere, attracting a trendy clientele looking to conspire over fine liquors in a corner. Opened in 2002, the bar takes its name from the antique shop that previously inhabited this spot for 40 years. Address: Chiaia, Via Bisignano 58, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 415 024 Website: www.66napoli.it

• Enoteca Belledonne

The bottle-lined brick walls of Enoteca Belladonna boast some of Campania’s finest local wines. That may be why crowds of wine-glass wielding Neapolitans spill out of the tiny premises into the cobbled streets during the summer. Family-run, the bar was appropriately converted from an old cellar in the 1960s. Plates of charcuterie (cold cuts of meat) and toasted crostini(toasted ciabatta) topped with marinated aubergines and peppers make a fine match for the wine. Address: Vico Belledonne a Chiaia 18, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 403 162 Website: www.enotecabelledonne.eu

• Gran Caffé Gambrinus

Located at the edge of grand Piazza del Plebiscito, this is Naples’ most venerable café. Its art nouveau interior is ornately decorated, the glowing wooden bar stretching from one end to the other. Self-conscious patrons sip coffee and cocktails, attended by uniformed waiters. A cocktail or Prosecco here, prior to an evening performance at the Teatro San Carlo, is a local ritual. Address: Via Chiaia 12, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 417 582 Website: www.grancaffegambrinus.com

• Intra Moenia

A chameleon café, bookshop, publishing house and bar, Intra Moenia is the place to come for a long afternoon coffee or low-key evenings of good wine and good conversation. Located on Piazza Bellini, one of the most attractive piazzas in the historic centre, it has a refined cultural atmosphere. Many people simply grab a drink and sit out on the piazza on hot summer evenings. Address: Piazza Bellini 70, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 451 652 Website: www.intramoenia.it

Clubs in Naples

• L’Arenile di Bagnoli

For a sample of the Neapolitan summer club scene you can’t do much better than L’Arenile. Its fabulous wooden-decked cabana-style interior and terrace are draped with gossamer curtains and populated by Campari-sipping socialites. Pretentious it may be, but the romantic atmosphere and beachside views are hard to beat. The Tuesday night jam session hosts top names from the Neapolitan music scene. L’Arenile di Bagnoliis only open in the summer from April to September. Address: Via Coroglio 14b, Napoli. Telephone: +39 081 570 6035 Website: www.areniledibagnoli.it

• Nea

By day, Nea is an art gallery selling some fine local and national work, plus a pleasant café serving terrific coffee. A great meeting place for creative types, it opens into an 18th century terrace overlooking the old university. In the evening though, artistic admirers come and sip fine wines whilst admiring the collections as the odd DJ pops by to spin wax in the larger galleries. Address: Via Costantinopoli 53, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 451 358 Website: www.spazionea.it

• Nick & Nora

you really enjoy our experience at this cocktail bar. The cocktail menu is full of very nice creations, but not overwhelming. The waiters can advice you well on what to take. Snacks are included and delicious (olives, crackers, peanuts). you would be a loyal customer if you are living in Napoli. Address: Via Vincenzo Bellini, 65, 80135 Napoli. Telephone: +393 509 090 690

Live music in Naples

• BOURBON STREET

Intimate venue offering cocktails & dinner eats, plus regular live jazz bands & dancing. A current favourite with local music hounds, Bourbon street has a down-to-earth vibe and an excellent programme of events. Settle down in a corner of the cosy, barrel-vaulted rooms for an evening of rhythm and blues, rock or jazz. Beers here are as varied as the line-up too, with top brews from around the world making their way to the taps of this popular drinking den. Address: Via Vincenzo Bellini, Napoli. Telephone: +39 338 825 3756 Website: www.bourbonstreetjazzclub.com

• WhyeNot

Possibly the best jazz club in Naples, WhyeNot is the city’s most famous jazz den.  atmospheric place. Major gigs are generally held on Friday and Saturday, and it’s best to book ahead on these nights if you want to get a table and food as well. The bands are typically homegrown but there’s the occasional blues performance every now and again as well. Address: Via Gino Doria, 99, 80128 Napoli. Telephone: +39 366 433 0874 Website: www.whyenot.it

Classical music in Naples

• Associazione Scarlatti

Naples classical music association, Associazione Scarlatti, put on a full calendar of events in different locations across the city. From intimate chamber music concerts to large shows featuring fully-fledged orchestras, the programme mixes up local and international talent. Some of the venues, such as the Castel Sant’Elmo, are spectacular. Address: Piazza dei Martiri 58, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 406 011 Website: www.associazionescarlatti.it 

• Centro di Musica Antica Pieta de Turchini

The Cappella della Pietà de’ Turchini, a musical group keen on preserving and performing local music from the baroque era, do so beautifully in the all important Santa Caterina a Siena, a stunning baroque church. Performances in this unbeatable setting take place between October and May with a focus on opera and orchestral shows. The preference here is for southern and Neapolitan music, so it’s a real treat for those visiting the city. Address: Via Santa Caterina da Siena 38, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 402 395 Website: www.turchini.it 

Theatres in Naples

• Teatro Bellini

The most beautiful of Naples’ many theatres is undoubtedly Teatro Bellini, which is located in the city centre. It opened in 1864 and has been damaged both by fires and earthquakes over the years, but it is still going strong. The programme consists mostly of theatrical productions such as the Divine Comedy and musical theatre productions. Address: Via Conte di Ruvo 14, Naples. Telephone: +39 081 549 9688 Website: www.teatrobellini.it

Naples Food And Drink

Food In Naples

• Neapolitan pizza

The Neapolitan pizza is arguably the most symbolic culinary creation of Italy, originating in the city of Naples during the 17^th century. The basic marinara pizza is topped with a tomato-based sauce with oregano and garlic, while the more famous margarita sees the addition of mozzarella and basil leaves. If cooked properly, the base should be thin and crusty with a puffed-up rim covered in charred spots, known locally as ‘leopard spots’.

• Pastiera

The pastiera is a classic Neapolitan tart with a buttery crust filled with pastry cream, ricotta, and wheat berries. It’s also made extra flavourful with ingredients like orange peel, sugar, spices and cinnamon. Neapolitans enjoy pastiera as a traditional Easter treat, though you’ll find it all over Naples year-round.

• Caprese salad

The simple but delicious Caprese salad is a colourful dish of sun-kissed tomatoes topped with creamy mozzarella and basil leaves. Most restaurants in Naples add a dash of balsamic vinegar to this fresh snack, though vinegar is not essential according to the original recipe.

• Spaghetti alle vongole

A basic spaghetti alle vongole in bianco consists of just clams and pasta, though modern versions tend to add ingredients such as garlic and olive oil. While purists may disagree, many foodies love it with tomatoes and chilis.

• Pasta e fagioli

Pasta e fagioli is one of the most popular pasta dishes to have originated in Naples. This pasta and bean stew is a hearty vegetarian-friendly delight, particularly when enriched with celery, carrots, tomatoes and onions. Meat eaters can add pork rinds to this flavourful dish. We also recommend trying it with mussels.

• Sfogliatella

Sfogliatella is the signature pastry of Naples, filled with sweetened ricotta and citrus-scented custard. A popular treat throughout Campania, it comes in 2 delicious variants: ricca (layered puff pastry) and frolla (smooth shortcrust). We highly recommend variations that contain cinnamon and Amarena cherry.

• Neapolitan ragù

Ragù refers to a meaty red sauce that’s made from tomatoes grown on volcanic soil in the Campania region. When paired with pasta like rigatoni and ziti with a side of bread for dipping, it becomes ragù Napoletana. This staple dish of Naples is traditionally enjoyed as a Sunday dinner, though you can find it in many local restaurants any day of the week.

• Pesce crudo

Pesce crudo is a luxury food item that includes the use of raw fish. In Naples, restaurants elevate the flavours of local fish with the addition of salt, olive oil and citrus juice. For a lofty dining experience, we recommend pairing your pesce crudo with a carafe or two of Neapolitan wine.

• Spaghetti alla puttanesca

The spaghetti alla puttanesca is a classic Neapolitan dish made with spaghetti or vermicelli pasta with tomato sauce and olive oil, anchovies, capers, and spices. Legend has it that spaghetti all puttanesca has promiscuous origins in the brothels of Naples. Regardless of its true backstory, this pasta dish has been a staple of the Naples food scene since the mid-20^th century.

• Polpette

Polpette is a dish of Neapolitan meatballs that are cooked and smothered in savoury tomato sauce. It’s best enjoyed as a protein-rich snack on a hot summer’s day in southern Italy. Counterintuitively, the meatballs are not served with pasta in Naples. They’re more often eaten with bread in the Italian scarpetta (dipping in sauce) or as a filling in a cuzzetiello (sandwich).

Drink In Naples

• Espresso

Naples is known for its rich and delicious espresso.

• Limoncello

This sweet, lemon-flavored liqueur is a popular after-dinner drink in Naples.

• Caffe Napoletano

The coffee proposed by the Neapolitan coffee roasters is characterized by a strong and decisive taste.

• Lacryma Christi wine

Vesuvio Lacryma Christi DOC is the wine produced with the native grapes of Mt. Vesuvius, which were already being cultivated prior to ancient Roman times.

• Campari soda

Campari Soda. One of the simplest Italian cocktails but extremely popular nonetheless, Campari Soda is made by mixing Campari liqueur with sparkling soda water.