Prague

Prague Travel Guide

• About Prague

Few cities in Europe can rival the old-world beauty and charm of Prague. Yet there is more to this colourful Czech capital then meets the eye, with a layered appeal that goes beyond its cobbled streets and lovely, meandering river. The bridges, spires and hilltop castles of the city combine to heart-melting effect, particularly if you’re lucky enough to stumble into an unexpected garden within its hidden courtyards. Prague’s flourishing art and dining scene thrive, and its live entertainment is almost as renowned as its graceful and varied architecture. A smorgasbord of classical sites and exuberant monuments, it goes without saying that the city is no longer a secret. There was a time when Prague’s impeccably preserved Old City seemed to emerge onto travellers’ maps out of nowhere; its medieval lanes and squares untouched by extensive wartime bombing. These days it’s become a key stop-off on the continental tour, and despite the summer throng, it remains a very special place. If you’re canny enough to visit over winter, when its snow-crusted roofs and icicle-laden churches add to the atmosphere, you’ll find far fewer visitors. The city’s past makes for a labyrinthine tale of both high living and hard fortune, and its dramatic history informs much of its character. It’s lived through royal upheavals and renaissance movements and spent time under Nazi occupation and Soviet control. For heritage buffs, there’s a huge amount to delve into. Quintessential sights include the statue-studded Charles Bridge and the immense Prague Castle. Wander historic alleyways in search of secluded chapels, concealed courtyards and traditional Czech pubs selling world-class beers. The appeal of this UNESCO-listed historic centre never ends; with the bonus of a burgeoning array of luxury hotels, contemporary dining, shopping and entertainment. There are superb galleries, sobering museums and speaker-shaking nightclubs. Food, drink and nights out are all taken seriously here, so those in search of meaningful nightlife will find far more to enjoy than the stag-do clichés. The Czech capital is a city you can fall in love with. It’s somewhere to feast on delicious and traditional cuisine and sink into a blend of architecture that ranges from Gothic to cubism. It’s a place to enjoy bold, humorous works of art before taking a walk in a riverside park. Prague is somewhere to enjoy at length.

• Prague History

Prague’s history goes back much further than its mediaeval skyline, beginning in the distant days of the Celtic Boii tribe who founded the city around 500BC. Unlike the Celts in the rest of Europe, it wasn’t the Romans who displaced the tribe in AD9 but the German Marcomanni. The Marcomanni gave birth to the ruling Přemyslid dynasty, which remained pre-eminent in Prague until the 14th century. Among the Přemyslid rulers was Wenceslas (he of Christmas carol fame) who was killed by his brother Boleslav and now lies buried beneath St. Vitus’s Cathedral. Despite political convulsions, the era saw Prague grow in importance as a trading centre. But for all the Přemyslid’s success, Prague’s real golden age commenced when Charles IV of Bohemia was elected Holy Roman Emperor in the mid-14th century. Flush with cash, Charles decided to overhaul the city and initiated an ambitious building programme, with St Vitus Cathedral and the Charles Bridge among the completed projects. His feckless descendants, however, frittered Charles’ legacy away and when the last direct heir died childless, a Calvinist king called Frederick V of Pfalz was elected. His religion brought him into conflict with the powerful Hapsburgs, and Catholic armies rode out and defeated him in 1620, leaving Emperor Ferdinand II in charge. With political power now concentrated in Vienna, Prague began to decline. After 400 relatively uneventful years of Hapsburg rule, the 20th century was traumatic for Prague: first, it was occupied by the Nazis and then yoked to the oppressive Soviet Union. The Russians, leaving Prague’s inhabitants cowed and despairing, ruthlessly crushed any dissent, most notably during the 1968 Prague Spring. Although daunted, the Czech spirit remained undimmed, and when the Berlin Wall fell in 1989, the people took the opportunity to break away from Communism in what is now known as the Velvet Revolution. The Velvet Divorce followed as the Slovak portion of the old Czechoslovakia went its own way, leaving Prague the capital of the brand new Czech Republic.

• Did you know?

Prague was the first Eastern Bloc city to gain a Michelin-starred restaurant – the Allegro at the Four Seasons Hotel which is now closed. It was in Prague in 2006 that Pluto was downgraded from a planet to a dwarf planet. The grave of hard-line Communist president Antonín Novotný doesn’t have his name on it – the only sign of his presence is a carved signature.

• Weather in Prague

Prague is a rewarding place to visit at any time of year. Spring (March to May) in Prague is pleasant as temperatures climb from 4°C (39°F) in March to 15°C (59°F) in May. May is also a month of celebrations – the prominent Prague Spring International Music Festival and the Czech Beer Festival draw large crowds. Summer (June to August) in Prague is idyllic. The city bustles with tourists in July and August. Summer can be quite wet, so pack an umbrella with you. Autumn (September to November) is also a great time to visit Prague as the city experiences a low amount of rainfall. Average temperatures drop from 14°C (57°F) in September to 3°C (37°) in November. Winter (December to February) is long and cold in Prague, but there are fewer tourists, and the city’s snow-dusted bridges and castles are at their most atmospheric. For a picture-perfect snow scene, visit Prague in December and January when you’re most likely to see a dusting of the white stuff.

Things to see in Prague

Attractions

• Malá Strana (Lesser Town)

On the west bank of the Vltava lays arguably the most romantic and atmospheric district of Prague, skirting the hill of Hradčany below the castles. A craftsman’s quarter during the medieval period, this district, full of palaces, embassies and fantastically ornate churches, is perfect for night-time jaunts through its lantern-lit streets. It has also historically been the preferred quarter for Prague’s poets, artists and musicians, and even today you’ll hear the waft of instruments as you explore steep, cobbled alleys lined with smoky cafés, bars and hidden jazz cellars. Address: Malá Strana, Prague. Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Karlúv Most (Charles Bridge)

The construction of Prague’s most famous and photographed location began in 1357, as part of Charles IV’s monumental building programme. The bridge replaced the earlier Judita Bridge, a remnant of which is the plainer of the two towers on the Malá Strana gate. The bridge itself is rather drab, and it is the later statues (Jesuit additions during the CounterReformation), which flank the crossing, that have made it so visually stunning. Fully pedestrianised, this bridge is a tourist focal point, and a sunset stroll here over the rolling Vltava is one of Prague’s quintessential experiences. Address: Staré Město, Karlúv most, Prague. Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Website: www.prague.eu Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Pražský Hrad (Prague Castle)

Prague Castle perched on the ridge of the Hradčany, dominates Prague’s skyline. It’s almost the size of a small town with three courtyards, fortifications and gardens. Given the wealth of architecture, state apartments, churches, galleries and grounds, it is impossible to see everything in a single day. Individual attractions within the compound include the Cathedral of St Vitus (the largest and most important church in Prague), the Old Royal Palace (former residence of Bohemian kings), Strahov Monastery, the Royal Garden and Golden Lane. Address: Hradčany, Prague. Telephone: +420 224 373 368 Opening times: History buildings: Daily 10:00-18:00. Website: www.hrad.cz/en/prague-castle Admission Fees: Yes (grounds free). Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Staroměstské Náměstí (Old Town Square)

The 12th-century Old Town Square is a significant and splendid focal point for tourists in Prague. In summer, tables spill out from the restaurants, while in December the square hosts the city’s largest Christmas Market. All of the palaces, churches and houses around the square are of major historical interest, such as the gothic Staroměstská Radnice (Old Town Hall) and the Kinský Palace (the seat of the National Gallery). The turret of Tower Hill boasts the world-famous Astronomical Clock, which tolls hourly over the multi-coloured architectural facades. Just off the square, to the east, is the superb gothic Týnem Chrám (Týn Church), where the tomb of the astronomer Tycho Brahe is found. Address: Staré Mĕsto , Staroměstské Náměstí, Prague. Telephone: +420 221 714 444 Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Website: www.prague.eu/staromestske-namesti Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Židovské Museum (Jewish Museum)

Until the end of the 19th century, the area north of the Old Town Square constituted the Jewish Ghetto. The Jewish Museum actually comprises six different historical sites around the neighbourhood, accessible on a single ticket. It allows admission to the Klausen Synagogue, the Maisel Synagogue, the Pinkas Synagogue, the utterly beautiful Spanish Synagogue (temporarily closed until the end of 2020), the Ceremonial Hall and the Old Jewish Cemetery. Taken together, they provide a stirring insight into this aspect of Prague’s history. Address: Maiselova 15, Josefov, Prague. Telephone: +420 222 749 211 Opening times: Sun-Fri 09:00-16:30. Website: www.jewishmuseum.cz Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Obecní Dům (Municipal House)

The pinnacle of art nouveau architecture in Prague, Obecní Dùm has been fully restored to the glory of its original form. Antonin Balsánek and Osvald Polívka were its main designers, although a large number of major Czech artists made contributions during its construction. The most spectacular of the public areas is the Lord Mayor’s Room, which features murals by Alphonse Mucha. The restaurant, café and the Amerikanský bar were also the work of Polívka. The centrepiece of the building is the Smetana Hall, home of the Prague Symphony Orchestra and one of the major venues for concerts during the Prague Spring Festival. Guided tours are essential for visitors looking to get a proper overview. Address: Staré Město , Námĕstí Republiky 5, Prague. Telephone: +420 222 002 101 Opening times: Guided tours take place at different times each day. Check the website for listings. Website: www.obecnidum.cz/en Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Muzeum Komunismu (Museum of Communism)

Prague’s ancient history lines the streets, with Gothic spires, baroque houses and medieval streets galore. Yet its most current chapters are no less fascinating or turbulent. The more recent Museum of Communism marks and explains events that occurred here under the totalitarian regime that lasted from the February coup in 1948 to its collapse in November 1989. The theme of the museum is “Communism – the Dream, the Reality, and the Nightmare”, and visitors will be treated to a fully immersive experience that even includes an Interrogation Room. The museum is guaranteed to provide a fresh and thought-provoking perspective on Prague. Address: Na přikopě, V Celnici 1031/4, Prague. Telephone: +420 224 212 966 Opening times: Daily 09:00-20:00. Website: www.muzeumkomunismu.cz/en Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Národní Muzeum (National Museum)

Národní Muzeum (National Museum) stands at the top of Wenceslas Square. Founded in 1818, it houses the country’s oldest and largest collection of antiquities. The principal building of the museum reopened in 2018 and houses items ranging from natural history to art and music. It stands as a striking celebration of the history of former Czechoslovakia. Various other sub-components of the museum are open to visitors. These include a museum of music, a museum of natural history and a museum of Asian, African and American cultures, located in different parts of the city. Address: Nové Město (New Town), Václavské Náměstí 68, Prague. Telephone: +420 224 497 111 Opening times: Daily 10:00-18:00. Website: www.nm.cz/en Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Václavské Náměstí (Wenceslas Square)

Despite its name, Wenceslas Square is really a long boulevard. In 1989, it became the focal point for the remarkable demonstrations that led to the Velvet Revolution. Today, the square is a bustling thoroughfare presenting the best and worst of post-Communist Prague – from fashionable stores to a rather seedy nightlife. Nothing remains of the square’s earliest buildings, although examples of architectural styles from the last 150 years line its frontage. The lower portion is pedestrianised and contains many of Prague’s largest stores. There are numerous splendid art deco arcades with winding passages (developed in the 1920s). Address: Nové Město (New Town), Wenceslas Square, Prague. Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Muchovo Muzeum (Mucha Museum)

This intimate museum is devoted exclusively to the work of the renowned art nouveau artist Alphonse Mucha. Czech Republic’s answer to Toulouse Lautrec, Mucha is most famous for the posters he designed for theatre productions, starring the great fin-de-siècle actress Sarah Bernhardt. It’s a relatively small museum, but the collection includes phenomenal paintings, posters, sketches, statues and photographs by the artist, and also features Mucha’s lesser-known works celebrating pan-Slavism, as well as a recreation of his Paris studio. Guided tours are available. Address: Nové Město (New Town), Kaunický palác, Panská 7, Prague. Telephone: +420 224 216 415 Opening times: Daily 10:00-16:00. Website: www.mucha.cz/en Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

Tourist Offices

• Pražská Informační Služba (PIS – Prague Information Service)

Address: Arbesovo nám. 70/4, Prague. Telephone: +420 221 714 714 Opening times: Daily 09:00-16:00. Website: www.prague.eu/en The Prague Information Service can provide details on events, sightseeing, accommodation and transport. They can also book sport and concert tickets, sightseeing tours and accommodation. Come here for a free city map as well.

Tourist passes

• The Prague Card ( Website:  www.praguecoolpass.com ).

Gives holders free access to 60 attractions, including Prague Castle, the National Museum and the Jewish Museum, plus significant discounts to others. It also includes free sightseeing bus tours and river cruises. The Prague Card is available for two, three or four days. Please note that since 2019, public transport is no longer included in the Prague Card and tickets have to be purchased separately.

Things to do in Prague

• Catch a break with some surfing on River Elbe

Landlocked as it is, the Czech Republic may not be the destination de rigueur for surfers but that doesn’t mean you can’t catch a wave in the capital. Surf Wave’s Telephone: +420 777 952 222 Website: www.surfwave.cz  Artificial break on the River Elbe, 30 minutes drive from Prague, is a great way to wipe out an afternoon.

• Pour over the very best Czech Republic vineyards

Even the most experienced of wine connoisseurs have yet to uncork the best of the Czech Republic. Here, quality precedes quantity, and with very little being exported, guests should quench their intrigue by visiting the vineyards. Czech Wine Tours Telephone: +420 735 610 698 Website: www.czechwinetour.com  offer tours to boutique wineries that include some sightseeing and lunch.

• Power through the snow on a fat bike

Whether it’s road cycling, mountain biking or just pedalling through parks, Prague is the perfect city to explore on two wheels. Biko Adventures Telephone: +420 733 750 990 Website: www.bikoadventures.com  offer rentals and a range of tours to suit all abilities. They even have fat bikes, whose extra-large wheels make it possible to cycle over snow.

• Stand up and go sightseeing

Paddleboarding may be a bit of a balancing act, but once you are up, it is one of the most stimulating ways to see the city. Plťka boards Telephone: +420 739 080 492 Website: www.pltka.cz  offer lessons and equipment for hire; from there you can take in such sights as Charles Bridge and the penguins at Sovovy mlýny.

• Walk on water with some zorbing

Whether you choose to view it from Charles Bridge or take a river cruise, it’s easy to get close to Prague’s charming Vltava River. But easy doesn’t mean fun. Instead, allow: Water Zorbing Prague Telephone: +420 732 768 488 Website: www.praguezorbing.com  to seal you in an inflatable ball so you can walk on water.

Prague tours and excursions

Prague tours

• Other tours

Dopravní podnik Prahy Offers tours around the city centre on the Historic Tram 41 at weekends from April to November on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays from noon to 5 pm. Travellers can board at any stop on the circular route. Telephone: +420 296 191 817 Website:  www.dpp.cz/en Prague History Trip Offers unique tours of Prague in beautifully restored vintage cars from the 1920-1930s; while the Fiacres, horse-drawn taxis found along the west side of the Old Town Square, offer tours of the centre of the Old Town. Telephone: +420 737 306 599 Website: www.historytrip.cz

• Bicycle tours

For those who prefer to take in their attractions at something a little brisker than strolling pace, tours of Prague by bicycle are available and designed in packages to suit all ages and fitness levels. Group tours with knowledgeable guides are available daily, but if you prefer to strike out alone, bikes can be rented for any length of time, from two hours to a full day, and come with a safety helmet, lock and a Free city bike map Telephone: +420 776 180 284 Website: www.citybike-prague.com

• Ghost tours

As you’d expect, a fairy-tale-like city that was once dubbed the ‘magical capital’ of Old Europe has its fair share of mysterious and supernatural tales to tell. Discover a few as you’re guided at twilight through the city’s many narrow, winding lanes. For those seeking even more sinister thrills, there’s even a chance to visit the ancient labyrinth of 12th-century tunnels and dungeons lying hidden below the town. Telephone: +420 222 315 258 Website: www.mcgeesghosttours.com

• Bus tours

Prague Sightseeing Tours depart from Námìstí Republiky and terminate in the city centre – free pick up from most 4-star hotels can also be arranged. The ‘Grand City Tour’   which takes in all the major sights in Prague and includes a walking tour, takes three and a half hours. All tours are in English and other major European languages on request. Bus tours of Prague and other tourist locations are also available through Bohemia Travel Service Telephone: +420 222 314 661 , +420 224 826 262 Website: www.citytours.cz

• Boat tours

Prague Boats offer several boat tours on the Vltava River including frequent one-hour cruises that travel past the Prague Castle district. There are also two types of night cruise: one standard and one luxury, both have onboard dining and music entertainment. All boat tours depart from the dock at Čech Bridge Telephone: +420 724 202 505 Website: www.prague-boats.cz

• Walking tours   

Several companies, including Pavel’s Walking tour Offer excellent walking tours of Prague, some with themes such as ghosts, Kafka and legends. Leaflets are available at all tourist information service locations. Most tours start on the corner of Old Town Square and Pařízská Street and last about two hours. Telephone: +420 603 157 001 Website: www.walks.cz

Prague excursions

• Visit the baroque Troja (Trojský Zámek)

Troja was built by the Sternberg family in the late 17th century. Located in the north of the city, much of the rich baroque interior decoration celebrates the victories of the Habsburg dynasty. Exquisite formal gardens lead down to the river. Get here by bus 112 from metro Nádraží Holešovice, or via a pleasant half-hour walk along the banks of the Vltava. The château is now owned by the city of Prague and sometimes houses a collection of Czech art. Opening hours are Tuesday Thursday 10:00-18:00, Friday 13:00-18:00, Saturday-Sunday 10:00-18:00. Telephone: +420 283 851 614 Website: www.en.ghmp.cz

• Discover legends at Vyšehrad

This mighty fortress perched high above the Vlata is one of the most historically important sites in Prague. Recognised from afar by the gothic twin spires of the Church of St Peter and St Paul, this was the seat of the first kings of Bohemia in the 11th century. A place brimming with legend and rumours of hidden treasure, the gallery here also houses the original statues from the Charles Bridge. Telephone: +420 241 410 348 Website: www.praha-vysehrad.cz

• Take a trip to Kutná Hora, the City of Silver

Now a UNESCO World Heritage site located 84km (62 miles) east of Prague, Kutná Hora came to prominence in the late 13th century as a centre for silver mining, and with a boomtown economy it soon became second only to Prague in importance. Today the principal point of interest is the extraordinary gothic Cathedral of St Barbara, while the Hrádek in Barborská Czech Silver Museum offers tours into the mines. Telephone: +420 327 512 378 Website: www.kutnahora.cz

• Spend a day in Cesky Krumlov

This idyllic Bohemian town stakes a fair claim to being the most attractive in the Czech Republic. Curling around the Vltava, the compact Old Town is as a UNESCO heritage site and every bit as appealing as any part of Prague with plenty of cosy cafés and bars to relax in. Regular trains reach here from Prague’s main station. There’s also a bus service from the Czech capital. Telephone: +420 380 704 621 Website: www.ckrumlov.info

Shopping in Prague

Prague’s firmly established tourist popularity, coupled with a developed consumer economy, means that boutiques, speciality food and drinks stores and western luxury brand outlets are common sights around the city. You’ll also find souvenir shops by the hundred, particularly in and around the Old Town, with a good number of quality specialist vendors among the knick-knack stores.

• Key areas

You’ll find a myriad of shops in the winding lanes surrounding Old Town Square selling ornate crystal and glassware, a Czech speciality and part of the Bohemian tradition. Moser, which has a store at Černá růže, Na Přikopĕ 853/12 is consistently talked about as one of the best outlets. If labels are your thing, Parizska Street is generally seen as the most elegant and exclusive shopping stretch in town. Other good buys here include high-quality garnets (the national gemstone) as those mined here are among the world’s finest. There are also numerous antiquarian bookshops, and plenty of interesting independent art galleries dotted throughout the city.

• Markets

Prague’s spectacular annual Christmas Market, which occupies the Old Town Square for the whole of December, is internationally renowned (there’s also one at Easter). During the rest of the year, the best market for handicrafts is the Havelské tržiště (literally “Havel’s Market”) held daily on Havelská Street, Prague 1. It also sells fresh produce.

• Shopping centres

Prague’s main shopping hub is centred on the top end of Wenceslas Square, extending along to Na Přikopĕ. Here you’ll find several shopping gallerias in a half-mile radius; notably the Myslbek Shopping Gallery A modern multi-level covered arcade, which plays host to popular names such as Calvin Klein, Gant and TM Lewin. Telephone: +420 224 239 545 Website: www.myslbek.com/en

• Opening hours

Prague’s centrally-located shops rely on tourist business, and most are open Monday to Saturday 08:00-19:00. Many shops open later than this, and at their discretion on Sundays.

• Souvenirs

A major retailer of mass-produced keepsakes, Prague’s gift shops also sell some appealing handmade crafts. If you’re looking for something particular, such as the omnipresent wooden Czech puppets, it’s worth trying a few shops to compare prices and quality. Czech garnets – also known as ‘bohemian garnets’ are sold widely as souvenirs; be wary of counterfeits. Bohemian glass and porcelain items remain the souvenirs for which the city is best known.

• Tax information

Only non-EU members can claim a tax refund (up to 21%).

Restaurants in Prague

As with so much in this progressively cosmopolitan city, restaurants in Prague continue to increase in quality and diversity. The hearty, meat-and-dumpling based fare, which constitutes much of traditional Czech cuisine, is now only one facet of what’s available here. On a variety of budgets and across a culinary spectrum ranging from sauerkraut to sushi, there’s something for everyone. The Prague restaurants below have been hand-picked by our guide author and are grouped into three pricing categories: Expensive (over Kč1,000) Moderate (Kč400 to Kč1,000) Cheap (under Kč400) These Prague restaurant prices are for an average three-course meal for one person and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent. They include VAT but not a service charge or tip. All restaurant prices in Prague usually include 21% VAT. If a service charge (usually 10-12.5%) has been added to the bill, it is customary to round the bill up to the nearest Kč10. However, where a service charge has not been included, diners should leave 10% of the bill.

Expensive

• Alcron

Cuisine: Seafood The finest restaurant in Prague for fresh seafood, the Michelin-starred Alcron is an intimate and atmospheric semi-circular room in the Alcron Hotel. With a back wall consisting of a restored floor-to-ceiling, art deco mural, and plush velvet seating, the setting is both intimate and splendid. The seasonal menu is effortlessly conjured up using the freshest ingredients and, unsurprisingly, dishes feel truly bespoke as this venue caters to just 24 covers. Being so small and so popular, reservations are recommended. Address: Nové Město, Alcron Hotel, Štepánská 623/40, Prague. Telephone: +420 222 820 000 Website: www.alcron.cz

• La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise

Cuisine: Fine dining An exquisite Michelin-starred restaurant with the prices to match, La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise serves up a creative multi-course tasting menu that puts new twists on Czech classics. Options are seasonal and sourced from a varied selection of farmer, foragers and hunters. Each course is paired with a particular drink, and the whole thing is a “reinterpretation” of a local late 19th-century cookery school. There’s no á la carte option. Address: Staré Město, Haštalská 18, Prague. Telephone: +420 222 311 234 Website: www.ladegustation.cz

• Terasa U Zlaté Studně

Cuisine: Fine dining A fine dining restaurant that grants a special view over the rooftops of the city, the Terasa U Zlaté Studně sits at the top of a 16th-century building (now the Golden Well Hotel). The internationally influenced menu includes everything from Canadian lobster to smoked beef tongue and their signature dish, Argentine steak with foie gras and truffles. Head chef Pavel Sapik, however, is Czech through and through. Address: Malá Strana, U Zlaté Studně 166/4, Prague. Telephone: +420 257 533 322 Website: www.terasauzlatestudne.cz

Moderate

• Budvarka

Cuisine: Czech Owned by Budvar, the Czech Republic’s premier brewers (and a name you’ll see on at least one tap in every bar in the city), Budvarka is basically an upscale gastro-pub catering in the Czech tradition. Perfect for those who like to know where they are by what they eat, visitors can gorge on authentic, rib-sticking dishes of potato pancakes, grilled meats and pickled cheese, all ideal for soaking up the ever-flowing litres of lager, including some particularly rare and lethal brews. Address: Dejvice, Wuchterlova 336/22, Prague. Telephone: +420 222 960 820 Website: www.budvarkadejvice.cz

• Café Savoy

Cuisine: European If you’re looking for high-quality food and immaculate service in beautifully restored, period surroundings at mid-range prices, your search in Prague ends here at Café Savoy. This refurbished space with a reputation for killer deserts and its own in-house bakery was once the favourite of the most affluent strata of the city’s Jewish community. Today it is a contender for serving one of Prague’s best breakfasts. Address: Malá Strana (Lesser Town), Vítězná 5, Prague. Telephone: +420 731 136 144 Website: www.cafesavoy.ambi.cz

• Noi

Cuisine: Thai A quality, mid-priced Thai restaurant in Prague, Noi is situated in a well-trodden quarter of the Malá Strana district. Popular locally and with a hip vibe and décor, Noi proves its Asian credentials by getting the quintessential dishes (such as a perfectly citrus-infused Pad Thai) totally spot on. There’s an outside patio, a reasonably extensive list of wines and teas, and a “Wok and Walk” takeaway option. Address: Malá Strana (Lesser Town), Újezd 409/19, Prague. Telephone: +420 608 322 035 Website: www.noirestaurant.cz

Cheap

• Café-bar Platýz

Cuisine: Italian Even though this little Italian café is tucked away down a courtyard passage, it doesn’t seem to prevent it from being packed. The café offers a variety of light Italian cuisine, from risotto and pastas to meat dishes in various sauces. The wine list is quite impressive, and the ambience always lively and convivial. Perfect for a cheap restaurant in Prague. Address: Edge of Staré Město (Old Town), Národní 416/37, Prague. Telephone: +420 224 211 161 Website: www.cafeplatyz.cz/en

• The Tavern

Cuisine: American There’s a lot to love about The Tavern. It specialises in beer, cocktails and the kind of food that fills the stomach without emptying the wallet, most notably in the form of burgers. The house-smoked BBQ pulled pork version is well worth getting to know, but it serves a number of veggie options too (spinach bean bomb burger, anyone?), as well as various salads and sides. Signature cocktails include The Tavern Wench, made with vanilla vodka. Address: Vinohrady, Chopinova 1521/26, Prague. Telephone: +420 725 319 226 Website: www.thetavern.cz/en

• U Kroka

Cuisine: Czech If you want to try traditional Czech cooking done well, this simple restaurant, founded in 1895, is a great option. Its Svíčková (braised beef with dumplings) is excellent. Reserve a table in advance to avoid disappointment. Address: Vratislavova 12/28, Prague. Telephone: +420 775 905 022 Website: www.ukroka.cz

Prague Nightlife

First things first – Prague offers a great night out. Its bar and club scene rightly enjoys renown, but these days the reputation is founded on far more than stag friendly strip dens. If you’re after high culture, great beer, quality DJs or anything in between, there’s plenty to keep you busy. The choice of discos and dance clubs is far greater than it was a decade ago, although when it comes to nighttime entertainment, partyers are spoilt for choice and its best to plan big nights in advance. Be aware too that just as the city’s drinking venues vary widely, so too do its prices – there are some seriously swish bars in town, but you’ll pay for the privilege. Old Towns boasts some lovely spots, with rooftop bars offering freshly shaken cocktails to Gothic style cellars flogging clandestine mixtures. Lap-dancing clubs can still be found here in abundance, although many bars, restaurants and clubs (especially around the Old Town) have banned or actively discouraged stag parties, so Prague isn’t quite the destination it used to be for budget debauchery. Of course, the traditional recipe for a great night in Prague involves beer and music – two ingredients the Czechs excel both at making and enjoying. For many, rubbing shoulders with locals while enjoying world-class lagers in a welcoming bar or traditional beer hall provides the perfect authentic evening. Jazz enthusiasts can then move on and revel in one of Prague’s unique and vibrant clubs.

Bars in Prague

• Hemingway Bar

This bar focuses on Ernest Hemingway’s drinks of choice: absinthe, rum and champagne. You can find over 200 varieties of rum on offer and the most extensive collection of absinthe out of any bar in the Czech Republic. This is the place for those who love a great cocktail. Address: Staré Město, Karolíny Světlé 26, Prague. Telephone: +420 773 974 764 Website: www.hemingwaybar.cz/bar-prague

• Pivovarsky Klub

If there’s one place in town that can claim to give a comprehensive overview of the country’s love affair with beer, it’s here. Despite its name, this isn’t so much a club as a mecca for lovers of a quality tipple, offering more than 200 bottled beers and six on tap at any one time. As well as typical Czech varieties, you’ll find brews from Belgium, Germany and further afield. There’s great food to soak it up too. Address: Karlín, Křižíkova 17, Prague. Telephone: +420 222 315 777 Website: www.pivovarskyklub.com

• u Zlatého tygra (Golden Tiger)

A smoky and authentic old tavern, this traditional beer hall serves up a great variety of traditional pilsner, local pork dishes and coffee to boot. Even here in the tourist-filled Old Town, it remains hugely popular with locals (particularly at the end of each working day) saying much about its magic. Former president Václav Havel famously brought Bill Clinton here. Address: Staré Město, Husova 228/17, Prague. Telephone: +420 222 221 111 Website: www.uzlatehotygra.cz/en

Clubs in Prague

• Duplex Club

Located in a prime position, this club overlooks the beautiful and historic Wenceslas Square. During the day, the rooftop terrace is ideal for a coffee break, but by night becomes ones of Prague’s hottest clubs, with a slick lounge bar that attracts the city’s top DJs and some of its most elegant clientele. It is no wonder Mick Jagger celebrated his 60th birthday here. Address: Nové Město, Václavské námestí 21, Prague. Telephone: +420 732 221 111 Website: www.duplex.cz

• Fashion Club

With an emphasis on slick service, classy cocktails and good DJs, Fashion Club’s bid to attract Prague’s beautiful people has been a success since the venue opened. At the top of a former communist department store, the club itself is a smart, on-trend nightspot, aimed mainly at the young and moneyed. If for nothing else, its panoramic views are worth a visit for and its on-site restaurant is spectacular. Address: Námĕstí Republiky 8, Prague. Telephone: +420 774 969 661 Website: www.f-club.cz/en

• M1 Lounge Bar & Club

Owned by an expat New Yorker, this club is a strong player in the Prague nightlife scene. It’s got a luxury vibe thanks to an extended dance floor, a cocktail bar and some serious VIP space. The emphasis here is still about the music, with the club’s team of DJs spinning a well-received selection of hip-hop and house, R&B and indie rock. Address: Staré Město, Masná 1, Prague. Telephone: +420 777 762 164 Website: www.m1lounge.com

Live music in Prague

• MeetFactory

An art gallery and theatre during the day, this former warehouse hosts live music programmes at night. Expect regional artists and up-and-coming bands performing alternative, rock and folk, among other genres. Address: Ke Sklárně 3213/15, Prague. Telephone: +420 251 551 796 Website: www.meetfactory.cz

• Palác Akropolis

Consisting of a concert hall, theatre and cinema, Palác Akropolis is an established cultural complex in Prague. It puts on nearly 1,000 events annually, mainly focusing on art, music and theatre. A surprisingly intimate setting, this venue has played host to an array of indie, rock and metal acts from all over the world. As well as promoting homegrown talents, you may well catch the likes of Marianne Faithful, Megadeth or Sigur Rós, all of whom have gigged here in the past. Be warned though, it’s a popular joint and sells out quickly. So book early to avoid disappointment. Address: Žižkov, Kubelíkova 1548/27, Prague. Telephone: +420 296 330 911 Website: www.palacakropolis.com

• Reduta Jazz Club

First founded back in the 1950s, this venue has a strong claim to being Prague’s oldest and best-known jazz club. As such, it has hosted some great musicians over the decades – not to mention ex-President of the United States, Bill Clinton, who famously played his saxophone here. There are live music acts on every night. Address:  Národní třída 20, Prague. Telephone: +420 737 773 343 Website: www.redutajazzclub.cz

• Rudolfinum

A tourist attraction in its own right, this stunning neo-Renaissance building in the city centre has, since 1946, been the seat of the world-class Czech Philharmonic Orchestra.The perfect venue to experience Czech Republic’s cultural history; the monument comes to life during Prague’s Spring Music Festival. Boasting internationally renowned composers Antonin Dvorak and Bedrich Smetana among its countrymen, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a greater example of Czech’s love affair with classical music. Address: Josefov, Alšovo nábřeží 12, Prague. Telephone: +420 227 059 227 Website: www.rudolfinum.cz

Culture in Prague

• Prague National Theatre

A fantastic example of neo-Renaissance architecture, the Prague National Theatre stands proudly on the bank of the Vltava.Regarded by Prague’s citizens as one of its most important institutions, it is a historic keystone in the country’s cultural development. Here, amongst the sumptuous late-19th-century décor, the Prague Opera and Ballet perform regularly within a calendar of Czech drama and advent concerts. Address: Nové Město (New Town), Národní 2, Prague. Telephone: +420 224 901 448 Website: www.narodni-divadlo.cz/en

Prague Food and Drink

Food In Prague

• Vepřo-knedlo-zelo

This omnipresent Czech classic consists of roast pork with dumplings and sauerkraut.

• Goulash

A thick beef stew with a rich onion base, usually served with bread dumplings.

• Svíčková na smetaně

This strangely-satisfying sweet-savoury mash-up consists of pot-roasted beef tenderloin and vegetables with a sweet cream sauce, topped with cranberries.

• Smažený sýr

Edam-style cheese covered in breadcrumbs, deep-fried, then served with a side of French fries and tangy tartar sauce.

• Česneková polévka

A water-based garlic soup with melted cheese and croutons.

• Bramborák

Pancake of grated potato with egg, breadcrumbs and garlic.

• Tatarský biftek

A Czech take on steak tartare, this dish is made with seasoned raw beef and egg yolk.

• Budweiser Budvar

A world-famous Czech beer, the fight for naming rights with the US brand is still brewing, but this is the victor where taste is concerned.

• Vánoční kapr

Slices of carp covered in breadcrumbs and deep-fried – a Christmas staple.

• Ovocné knedlíky

A sweet dumpling filled with fresh strawberries, plum, apricot or fruit preserves, typically topped with melting butter and a dusting of sugar.

• Pilsner Urquell

This popular beer brand spawned a beer style named after it (pilsner), and is still served in most Czech drinking establishments.

Drink In Prague

• Wine

Moravian wine available in white (such as Mopr, Pálava and Hibernal) red (Cabernet Moravia and Neronet) as well as rose and sparkling.

• Becherovka

A herbal bitters spirit with a cinnamon-like taste from Karlovy Vary. Slivovice: A potent plum brandy, though other fruit varieties are also available.

• Fernet

A bitter and aromatic, liquorice-like spirit usually served as a digestif.

Prague — ‘The golden city of one hundred spires’  — is captivatingly beautiful, and beautifully preserved with architecture to rival Europe’s other great cities. And, since the dismantling of the Iron Curtain, it has become one of Europe’s top tourist destinations, with an estimated four million international visitors a year. Don’t worry, a lot of them come at the same time, so you can avoid the real crushes, but it does mean that famous sights like the Charles Bridge and the Old Town Square are usually busy, and the best places to stay in central Prague are often booked well in advance. Prague is a great city for walking around, although almost all the streets and pavements are cobbled, so comfortable shoes are essential. The majority of our selection of the best places to stay in Prague are easily accessible on foot from all of the major attractions. Public transport is excellent and cheap, and you can use trams or buses to get to parts of the city not served by the Metro. In 1992 Prague was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so, fingers crossed, its glorious architecture, which survived significant bomb damage in the Second World War, will wait, if you can’t find the right room available. Because, while most visitors flock to Prague in summer, there’s really no bad time of year to visit Prague.