Riga

Riga Travel Guide

• About Riga

The protagonist in a rags-to-riches story, Latvia’s capital has embraced the vitality of the European Union, and the ensuing influx of money has transformed Riga into a wealthy, cosmopolitan metropolis with a big city buzz. Much of what’s new is devoted to commerce, with glittering plate glass malls and towering department stores taking the place of Soviet blocks that once dominated the skyline. The UNESCO-listed Old Town, almost unchanged since the medieval period, remains intact, as do many of the city’s extraordinary art nouveau buildings. In the past decade, Riga accumulated tags such as ‘the new Prague’ or the ‘Paris of Eastern Europe’, attracting cheap airline deals. The attention brought hordes of tourists searching for beautiful architecture, chequered history and cheap beer. A profusion of sleazy bars and strip clubs then cropped up, making parts of the city feel decidedly seedy. But a hefty hike in prices is slowly discouraging lager louts in fancy dress from visiting. Still, there is much to recommend in Riga. Its harbour is a thing of beauty, while its museums and many art galleries have become increasingly excellent. Within striking distance of the city are the magnificent Venta Waterfall and the magical sandstone caves of Riežupe, as well as a smattering of quaint towns, including pretty Sabile and Kandava. Riga might not be the new Prague, but that’s because it boasts a unique charm that is entirely its own.

• Riga History

Be in no doubt, Latvia’s capital has been through the mill. Riga has been sacked, occupied, reoccupied and then sacked again, by everyone from the Teutonic Knights to the Polish. But it all started so well. Its location next to the Daugava River made Riga an important trading hub from the moment the Vikings first laid their helmets down in the city. Riga continued to flourish until the 13th century when the Bishop of Livonia, Albert, landed with his Teutonic Army and annexed the city. Save for the odd skirmish, Riga remained largely calm until the Livonian War in 1558. From here on Riga would have to endure constant tugs of war between neighbouring powers, who wrestled for control over the city. The Livonian War dragged on for 25 years, during which Riga was annexed by the victorious Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. They proceeded to battle with the Swedish for the next 50 years, who eventually took control of Riga in 1625. Back then Sweden wasn’t the pacifist nation it is today and another conflict ensued with the Russo-Swedish War. Once again, Riga was dragged into the mud. In spite of the endless run of conflicts, Riga continued to prosper. But in 1710, the city was attacked again with Tsar Peter the Great taking the city for Russia – a state of affairs that lasted until 1915 when the Germans attacked. The Treaty of Brest-Litovsk in 1918 effectively gave the Baltic States to Germany, but the ensuing armistice meant the Germans had to relinquish control, finally paving the way for Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia to claim independence. Latvia claimed sovereignty on 18 November 1918 and declared Riga its capital, swiftly distancing itself from Russia in the process. But independence proved short lived and by 1940, the Russians and then the Germans were back. When the Nazis were defeated, the Russians returned. Hidden behind the Iron Curtain, Riga and the rest of Latvia would struggle under Communist rule until 1991 – official Latvian independence.

• Did you know?

The Daugava River was known as ‘the Amber Way’ by the Vikings. Arvids Blumentāls, the man on whom Crocodile Dundee was based, was born in Riga. In 2002, Riga broke the record for the largest ever serving of potato salad made, serving up 3.277 tonnes of the stuff at Riga Technical University.

• Weather in Riga

Like the rest of Latvia, Riga has a temperate climate. Even though the Baltic Sea is just over 12km (7 miles) away, Riga’s weather is not as harsh as some might imagine. Spring (March to May) sees temperatures gradually increase from 3ºC (37ºF) in March to 16ºC (61ºF) in May. As the season progresses, days are often blessed with balmy daytime temperatures and long hours of daylight. This is the best time to visit Riga. Summer (June to August) is rainy as the city receives 80mm (3.1 inches) to 90mm inches (3.5 inches) of rain each month on the average, although when the sun shines, the city’s numerous parks fill up, tables spill out of cafes and revellers laze by the city canal, in a scene that is more Mediterranean than Eastern European. In August, the average high is 20°C (68°F) while the average low is 13°C (55°F). Autumn (September to November) starts off rainy but getting dryer by October. In November, the average high is 4°C (39°F) while the average low is 1°C (34°F). Pack warm clothes is the best choice. Winter (December to February) can be long, dark and bitter, with temperatures often hover around 0°C (32°F). Don’t let that discourage you from visiting, the Christmas markets in Riga is amazing and the WinterFest is another worthy diversion.

Things to see in Riga

Attractions

• Latvian War Museum (Latvijas Kara Muzejs)

The Latvian War Museum is simultaneously one of the most interesting museums in the city and the most controversial. Within the redbrick of the 14th-century Powder Tower, there are displays illuminating the various wars that have ravaged the country. There are good sections not only on the War of Liberation (1918-20), when the Latvians fought off the Soviets and the Germans, but also on the Latvian volunteers who served with the German Waffen SS during WWII. There has been much historical debate on their role in atrocities, and the surviving veterans who triumphantly parade through Riga every year are often a source of embarrassment to the government. Address: Smilšu iela 20, Centra rajons, Rīga. Telephone: +371 67 228 147 Opening times: Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00. Website: www.karamuzejs.lv Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Central Market (Centrāltirgus)

These five hulking 1930s zeppelin hangars are home to Riga’s Central Market and is the place to rub shoulders with Riga’s locals who come to snap up cheap fruit and vegetables. There is also a throng of stalls outside the main hangars. This is a great place for photography. Address: Nēgu 7 (next to the central station), Riga. Telephone: +371 67 229 985 Opening times: Daily 07:30-18:00. Website: www.rct.lv Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Museum of the Occupation of Latvia (Latvijas Okupācijas Muzejs)

The Occupation Museum is an essential stop that many tourists tragically miss. Housed in a remarkably ugly Communist-era building, the museum takes visitors on a journey through Latvia’s turbulent recent history – from the Soviet and Nazi occupations during WWII, right up to the tumultuous events that led to Latvian independence in 1991. Outside, the statue of the Latvian riflemen remains the subject of much local controversy. Address: Latviešu strēlnieku laukums 1, Centra rajons, Rīga. Telephone: +371 67 229 255 Opening times: Daily 10:00-18:00. Website: www.okupacijasmuzejs.lv Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Riga’s historic town centre

Although fire and war destroyed many of the first buildings, Riga’s historic central area boasts fine medieval, Gothic and baroque architecture. But Riga is particularly renowned for its art nouveau structures, which many believe form the finest collection of this architectural style anywhere in Europe. The style (Jugendstil – the German-style art nouveau) is unmistakable, with ornate stucco swirls adorning doorways, human faces embellishing facades and outlandish towers growing from the tops of buildings. The best way for visitors to appreciate this architectural treasure-trove is to wander through the downtown area, staring upwards. One of the best examples of Jugendstil is on and around Elizabetes iela, where many of the buildings are laden with all the tell-tale flourishes of this lavish architectural style. Address: Centra rajons, Elizabetes iela, Riga. Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• House of the Blackheads (Melngalvju Nams)

This stunningly renovated gothic building on the revamped Rātslaukams dates back to 1334 when it was the meeting venue of local unmarried merchants: the Blackheads. It fell into decline during Soviet times, but after years of restoration it now gleams by day and shines at night when floodlit. The building’s mighty gable rises dramatically 28m (92ft) above the square. The interior is suitably impressive with a rebuilt hall where the Blackheads once met. Address: Rātslaukums 7, Riga. Telephone: +371 66 957 225 Opening times: Daily 10:00-17:00. Website: www.melngalvjunams.lv Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• St Peter’s Church (Pētera Baznīca)

The oldest church in Riga is dedicated to the city’s patron saint. Originally built in 1209, it was reconstructed a few times, with the most recent one in 1941 after a fire. The 123-metre (403-ft) tower has an elevator taking visitors up to an observation gallery offering sweeping views of the city. Address: Reformācijas laukums 1, Riga. Telephone: +371 29 519 517 Opening times: Daily 10:00-18:00. Website: www.svpetera.lv Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: No UNESCO: Yes

• Riga Cathedral (Rigas Doms)

An intoxicating collage of gothic, art nouveau and Romanesque styles, this holy place is one of Riga’s symbols. In the interior museum, there are displays portraying Riga between the World Wars, as well as maps and postcards of Old Riga. One of the highlights is the world-famous organ, crafted in 1884 with almost 7,000 pipes. Address: Centra rajons, Doma laukums 1, Riga. Telephone: +371 28 909 686 Opening times: Daily from 10:00-17:00. Website: www.doms.lv Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: No UNESCO: Yes

• Freedom Monument (Brīvības Piemineklis)

The voluminous Freedom Monument, fondly known as ‘Milda’, occupies a sacred place in the hearts and minds of every Latvian. In 1935, private donations paid for and erected this potent symbol of the nation, which somehow survived four decades of Soviet rule. During the Communist era, locals often joked that the monument was really a travel agent, sincelaying flowers at the site guaranteed a one-way ticket to Siberia. Today, the monument is back to its best after a major renovation and still retains its poignancy, doubling as a favourite meeting point for the city’s youth. Address: Central District, Riga. Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Website: www.latvia.travel Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Riga churches – St. Jacob’s Catholic Cathedral of Riga

Just outside the Old Town walls, the Roman Catholic cathedral of Riga has been reincarnated many times. St Jacob’s Cathedral (Jēkaba Katedrāle) was once a Lutheran parish church, a Jesuit church and even a Swedish garrison church. But now, revelling in layers of history, it is an atmospheric place of Catholic worship. The Church of Jesus (Jēzus Baznīca), Riga’s oldest wooden church, has fought an epic battle with fire for centuries. Its survival alone is reason enough to visit. Grebenstchikov Church is another wooden structure, a gold-domed affair dating back to the early 19th century. Alexander Nevsky Church (Aleksandra Nevska Baznīca) is a Russian Orthodox structure dating back to the 1820s. Named after the 13th-century Russian prince celebrated by Riga’s Russian population as a folk hero, the church is bright yellow and hard to miss. Address: Jēkaba iela 9 (St Jacob’s Church), Riga. Telephone: +371 67 326 419 Opening times: Daily 07:00-18:00. Website: www.jekabakatedrale.lv Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Latvian Ethnographic Museum (Latvijas Etnogrāfiskais Brīvdabas Muzejs)

Perhaps Riga’s most underrated attraction, the Latvian Ethnographic Museum is situated just outside the capital and offers a glimpse into rural life during the 17th and 18th centuries. Spread over 90 hectares (222 acres) of beautiful Baltic countryside, this open-air museum boasts a stunning collection of impeccably preserved wooden farmsteads, churches and windmills that you can wander around. A traditional tavern sells local cuisine and sometimes traditional craftsmen and women sell their wares around this venue too. Keep your eyes peeled for red squirrels, which you can see leaping between silver birches. Address: Brīvidabas iela 21, Riga. Telephone: +371 67 994 106 Opening times: Daily 10:00-17:00. Website: www.brivdabasmuzejs.lv Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Latvian National Museum of Art (Latvijas Nacionālais Mākslas Muzejs)

The Latvian National Museum of Art is housed in an impressive baroque structure, which was the first building in the Baltics specifically created to be a museum. It is listed as an architectural landmark of national significance, and the top floor is adorned with six decorative paintings by the great Latvian artist Vilhelms Purvītis and the Estonian classical artist Gerhard von Rosen. The permanent exhibitions of the museum trace the development of professional art in the Baltic region from the mid-1700s to the present day. Its Russian art collection is reputed to be the richest in the Baltic countries. Alongside the permanent collections, the museum hosts temporary exhibitions, as well as regular cultural events. Address: Janis Rozentāls Square 1, Riga. Telephone: +371 67 324 461 Opening times: Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00. Website: www.lnmm.lv Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Mentzendorff’s House (Mencendorfa Nams)

Mentzendorff’s House is an impeccably restored, late-17th-century merchant’s house named after the last residing family. Ornately decorated, this charming residence-turned-museum still boasts original period furniture and various historical artefacts. The house often looks closed and the door at the entrance can be a bit sticky, so be sure to give it a good shove before giving up. Address: Grēcinieku 18, Riga. Telephone: +371 67 212 951 Opening times: Wed-Sun 10:00-17:00. Website: www.mencendorfanams.com Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Bastejkalns Park

Two sides of modern Riga are on display in Bastejkalns Park. On warm days, the park fills with gossiping workers, 20- somethings glued to their mobile phones and couples taking lazy strolls along the city canal that runs through the park. In the darker background, however, stand the memorials to the Latvians who were shot dead nearby when the Soviets tried to crush the independence movement on 20 January 1991. The victims included two cameramen and a student. Address: Bastejkalns Park, Riga. Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Website: www.rigasmezi.lv Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

Tourist Offices

• LIVE Riga (Riga Tourist Office)

Address: Centra rajons, Rātslaukums 6, Riga. Telephone: +371 67 037 900 Opening times: Daily 09:00-18:00. Website: www.liveriga.com

Tourist passes

• The Riga Card

Telephone: 8585   in Latvia only Website: www.rigacard.lv gives visitors free use of buses, trolleybuses and trams; free train trips to Vecaki and Jurmala; free or discounted museum admission; and discounts in shops, cafes, restaurants and on car hire. The card can be purchased in 24-, 48- and 72-hour variations, at the Tourism Information Centre, at the airport, at selected hotels or anywhere displaying the RC sign.

Things to do in Riga

• Build up your arms with some cross-country skiing

Latvian snow doesn’t usually fall until December. But once it does, all the locals take to Victory Park to enjoy some cross-country skiing. A tougher sport compared to its downhill counterpart, cross-country skiing is arguably more rewarding for its closeness to nature. Seek out the trails at Sigulda, just east of Riga.

• Enjoy a night at the opera

Neoclassical in style, the Latvian National Opera building  Telephone: +371 6707 3777 Website: www.opera.lv is not only a celebrated cultural institution but also a statement to be taken seriously. The operatic company and the celebrated national ballet, both of which call the venue home, have met that challenge; do not miss the chance to see either perform.

• Keep your grip during a tree top adventure

Visitors looking to stretch their limbs should hang out at Mežakaķis Adventure Park Telephone: +371 6797 6886 Website: www.kakiskalns.lv Located in north Riga’s Mežaparks, this treetop obstacle course features zip-wires, swings and rope bridges set to challenge everyone from children to adult athletes. All six courses start at ground level and take two hours to complete.

• Paddle the city’s canals at night

A beautiful city by day, Riga is also enchanting by night – especially when seen from a canal. Tours in Riga Telephone: +371 2664 9035 Website: www.toursinriga.lv  give visitors the chance to glide beneath bridges, through parks and past landmarks from a kayak. An expert guide who retells Riga’s rich history runs the tours at night.

• Speed across the snow on a husky-pulled sled

Visitors looking to tame wild Latvia should head to Vidzeme, just over an hour drive from Riga. Locals in this remote part of Latvia maintain traditions such as husky sledding. Discover Latvia Telephone: +371 2924 6129 Website: www.discover-latvia.lv will teach you how to ‘mush’ before you sled a 5km route. Mulled wine will greet you upon your return.

Riga tours and excursions

Riga tours

• Boat tours

Several operators run river cruises, taking in local architecture, passing small islands and sometimes venturing out to the Gulf of Riga. Head to the Akmens Bridge and you should be able to catch a boat nearby.

• Walking tours

A number of companies offer walking tours of Riga, which can be booked at the main tourist office in Old Town. However, a self-guided walking tour is probably the best bet. A good place to start a walk is at the Occupation Museum on Kalku iela, before heading into the Old Town. The majority of the sights in Old Riga are located on or near Skanu iela (the second right turn after the Occupation Museum), including St John’s Church and St Peter’s Church. Almost all of the main sights are located within a compact area in Riga’s Old Town. Website: www.liveriga.com

• Bus tours

Amber Way operates the Riga City Tour. Pick-up by bus is from outside the opera house, on the edge of Old Town. This tour incorporates the 13th-century churches and Old Town’s UNESCO-protected art nouveau masterpieces. Other companies offering bus tours include Riga City Sightseeing Telephone: +371 6727 1915 , +371 2776 2776 Website: www.sightseeing.lv

Riga excursions

• Jūrmala

Once a favourite holiday destination of Communist Party members, this string of small seaside towns and resorts, complete with hotels and spa retreats, stretches 30km (19 miles) west along the coast from Riga. The attractions are sweeping beaches, sand dunes, pine trees and old wooden houses. The only drawback is the incessant forest ticks. Jūrmala is served by regular trains on the Kemeri-Tukumus train line from Riga’s central station. All trains stop at Majori. Telephone: +371 6714 7900 Website: www.visitjurmala.lv

• Riga Motor Museum (Riga Motormuzejs)

This truly bizarre museum located 8km (5 miles) east of Riga’s Old Town, looks just like a car showroom at first glance. Closer scrutiny reveals a collection of over 100 vehicles, which includes the former wheels of such renowned car buffs as Stalin, Khrushchev, Brezhnev and East German dictator Erich Honecker. The wax figures are a nice touch, creating the surreal sight of the late Brezhnev sitting proudly in his Rolls Royce or Stalin in his specially modified armoured car. The museum can be reached by bus 15 or 21, or trolleybus 14 or 18. Telephone: +371 6702 5888 Opening times: Daily 10:00-18:00. Website: www.motormuzejs.lv

• Salaspils

About 18km (11 miles) southeast of Riga lies the site of Latvia’s Nazi tragedy. Between 1941 and 1944, several thousand innocents (including many Jewish people from Riga) were murdered at the concentration camp at Salaspils. Today, the camp is preserved as a reminder of those dark days and also houses a museum. The poignant inscription at the entrance reads ‘Behind this gate the earth groans’. Salaspils is easily accessible by electric commuter train and by car. Opening times: Daily 24 hours Website: www.salaspils.lv Admission Fees: Free

Shopping in Riga

There was a time when the people of Riga would stand in queues waiting to buy food, daydreaming about those Western products that were so unobtainable from the other side of the Iron Curtain. However, those communist days are long gone and consumers are now making up for lost time in the profusion of shops and American-style malls scattered around the city. Nonetheless, don’t expect to pick up any bargains because Riga, for all its choice, is far from a cheap place to shop. Prices for global brands tend to be more expensive than they are in other western European cities. Markets are great for deals and a slice of Riga life, not to mention Soviet-era souvenirs.

• Key areas

The heart of Riga’s shopping lies in and around the Old Town, with many of the larger stores along major roads in the suburbs. Big name shops include Hugo Boss, Elizatebes 63, and Benetton, Janvāra 8. Antiques are also popular among tourists, but they require a licence from the State Inspection Board for the Protection of Heritage, Mazā Pils 19, before any valuables can be exported. The best place to look for antiques is at specialist shops like Antiqua, Valnu 25 and Volmar, Kramu 4.

• Markets

The main market in town is the Central Market, Nēgu 7, which is open daily 0700-1800 with slight variations in the opening hours of different sections. Housed in abandoned WWI zeppelin hangars, it is a world away from the glossy shopping malls on the other side of the railway line and provides visitors with a great opportunity to haggle with Riga’s traders. You can buy anything from fruit and vegetables to clothes and Soviet souvenirs. This is a great place to take some photos, although you should keep an eye on your camera and beware of pickpockets.

• Shopping centres

Audēju is the main shopping street in Riga’s Old Town, with a number of designer shops. It is also home to Galerija Centrs, Audēju 16, the city’s oldest shopping mall.

• Opening hours

Standard shopping hours of 09:00-17:00 are the norm, with reduced opening hours on weekends. Shops are no longer closed for lunch, as they were in the Soviet times, and most of the supermarkets are open until 22:00.

• Souvenirs

Amber is abundant in the Baltics. You’ll find plenty of souvenir shops and market stalls in Riga selling this stone. The best place to look for the petrified tree resin is along Valnu iela, where a plethora of amber sellers ply their trade. Exclusive to Riga, black balsam is a cure-all elixir first concocted in the 18th century to treat a sick princess. Since then, this secret potion has been used to heal all sort of ailments (although it’s not exactly endorsed by doctors), and a bottle makes for a great souvenir. It looks like crude oil and tastes like a cross between cough medicine and Jägermeister, but don’t let that put you off! For Soviet memorabilia head to the Central Market where communist coins, badges and beer mugs are plentiful.

• Tax information

Sales tax is currently 21%.

Restaurants in Riga

Latvia may not be renowned for its culinary achievements, but restaurants serve seasonal produce, meat, as well as fish, thanks to Latvia’s location on the east coast of the Baltic Sea. Dairy products such as Biezpiens (cottage cheese), skābais krējums (sour cream) and rūgušpiens (soured milk) are readily available. Rupjmaize, a dark rye bread, is considered a national staple. Lunch is the main meal of the day. The Riga restaurants below have been hand-picked by our guide author and are grouped into three pricing categories: Expensive (over €100) Moderate (€35 to €100) Cheap (up to €35) These prices are for a three-course meal for one and include drinks, tax and service.

Expensive

• Le Dome

Cuisine: Seafood Perhaps the city’s best seafood restaurant, Le Dome offers trout, eel and lobster straight from the pond (literally, as it is in the restaurant). This freshness is backed up by creative cooking and knowledgeable service, making this a great venue for a culinary splurge. Off the main room are a trio of more private spaces, ideal for those entertaining or looking to tie up business deals. Not cheap, but well worth it. Address: Old Riga, Miesnieku 4, Riga. Telephone: +371 2544 1551 Website: www.ledome.lv

• Captain Sushi

Cuisine: Japanese Sushi is all the rage in Riga, and this restaurant might have something to do with that. Either order off the menu or grab anything and everything that tempts you from the conveyor belt of Japanese cuisine. If you get weary of the strong, heavy local brews, then the light and crisp Japanese beers for sale here make for a pleasant change. Address: Citadeles iela 2, Centra rajons, Rīga. Telephone: +371 2215 8888 Website: www.captainsushi.lv

• Vincents

Cuisine: International With one of Latvia’s most famous chefs, Martins Ritins, at the helm, this is still one of the best places to enjoy creative fine dining in Riga. Local business people and political movers and shakers have been joined over the years by visiting celebrities such as Elton John and Prince Charles. Service at Vincents is as satisfying as the food, though some recent reports suggest tourists are not always treated as well as locals. Address: Elizabetes 19, Riga. Telephone: +371 29 422 446 Website: www.restorans.lv

Moderate

• Melnā Bite

Cuisine: Latvian The Melnā Bite restaurant is located on the first floor of the Wellton Centrum Hotel & SPA and offers modern Latvian and European cuisine while respecting tradition – from a local farm to a delicious meal in the restaurant. Food, drinks, and a wide selection of cocktails are available. During the summer season, the terrace is open, located on one of the liveliest pedestrian streets in Old Riga Address: Audēju iela 13, Centra rajons, Rīga. Telephone: +371 6713 0675 Website: www.wellton.com

• Domini Canes

Cuisine: Latvian Restaurant «Domini Canes» is a great opportunity to open the door to a journey into the world of food, it is an offer that can be indulged in daily business lunches, coffee breaks, conversations over a glass of wine and leisurely moments of relaxation in the evening. The good reputation of the restaurant has spread far beyond the borders of Latvia and it has become one of the destinations for gourmets. «Domini Canes» is one of the restaurants where the amount of the bill is adequate for the service received, not to mention the professional skill of the team of cooks and the ability to discover new combinations of flavors. Address: Skārņu iela 18/20, Centra rajons, Rīga. Telephone: +371 2231 4122 Website: www.dominicanes.lv

• Zviedru vārti 

Cuisine: Latvian Restaurant Zviedru vārti has been our family’s dream for years, and that is why we have put all our love into making it what it is now. We ourselves have made each corner of the restaurant, and each of the smallest details, and we are so very lucky and proud to have clients who appreciate the family atmosphere we have made here. As the name of the restaurant suggests, we are found in the very heart of Old Riga, next to the Swedish Gate (Zviedru vārti). The 16th-century building in Aldaru 11 that now houses our restaurant also guards the stories of history. As for the history of our family, Ilga is the soul of the restaurant and in spirit is a true citizen of the Kurzeme region of Latvia. Address: Torņa iela 4-1a, Centra rajons, Rīga. Telephone: +371 2941 4503 Website: www.zviedruvarti.lv

Cheap

• Rozengrāls

Cuisine: Baltic This is a popular themed restaurant in old town Riga that carries off a medieval ambience better than most. Dine on old Baltic favourites served by costumed staff in an experience that is much more enjoyable than it sounds. Cheesy sometimes, but always enjoyable and great for first-time visitors. Address: Centra rajons, Rozena 1, Riga. Telephone: +371 25 769 877 Website: www.rozengrals.lv

• Garage

Cuisine: Bar/ Fast food In fact, Restaurant Garage is a great that it deserves its own fan club. If you’re a herring lover, this place should be on your radar. And interesting. Somehow, all the mushrooms must to have a party in one bowl,It is like the mushrooms were hosting a secret meeting and forgot to invite their friends. Address: Aldaru iela 10, Centra rajons, Rīga. Telephone: +371 6722 4696 Website: www.garazabars.lv

• Chat Café

Cuisine: Ukrainai Support for Ukraine, Together with other brands of our group, we participate and will continue to participate in support actions for defenders of Ukraine. Thanks to everyone who got involved! The total amount of our assistance since February 2022 is several hundred thousand euros. Read more about what has been done and what needs to be done here. Address: janvāra iela 8, Latgales priekšpilsēta, Rīga. Telephone: +371 2572 9739 Website: www.chat.restaurant

Riga Nightlife

In recent years, Riga took the dubious honour of being one of the stag capitals of Europe. Lured by cheap drinks, an implausible amount of strip clubs and some distinctly seedy bars, the city was awash with fancy-dressed lads looking for one last weekend of drunken debauchery. Some fairly severe price hikes have helped to combat this reputation, although they’ve also spoilt everyone else’s fun; expect your eyes to water at some of the bar bills. It’s not all bad news though. If you know where to go, Riga can show you a good time at a reasonable price. The city is packed with bars – everything from lounge-style hangouts with DJs, comfy couches and funky visuals, right through to spit and sawdust live music venues. One thing to note is that some bars are unofficially the sole preserve of Riga’s large Russian community, and your presence will, at best, be tolerated. Beware – some expats and even foreign embassies have reported an increase in foreigners being followed and robbed, or ripped off, particularly in central bars known to be popular with the expat community. Despite years spent suppressed under Soviet rule, Latvian culture is alive and well. Since 1991, there has been a renaissance of interest in, and expression of, Latvian cultural identity. This has been mirrored with new developments, such as the reopening of Riga’s Opera House. For most of the 20th century, Latvia was renowned as a centre of ballet excellence and the 1970s saw Riga revered for its avant-garde experimentalist theatre and cinema. Dainas are traditional Latvian folk songs that will occasionally be performed in Riga. The mournful ballad-type melodies deal with universal themes of love, marriage and death. You often have to buy tickets for nightlife events through the venues themselves, though the tourist information offices and better hotels are sometimes able to organise tickets. Most cultural events also have tickets available at the door. Riga In Your Pocket and City Paper both have information in English. These are available from newsagents, tourist offices and many hotels.

Bars in Riga

• B-Bārs

With the moto ‘A good bar sells sensations not drinks’, the B-Bar is the place to go for an extensive range of spirits and the self-proclaimed ‘best cocktails is Riga’. The prices are a little on the high side, but it’s worth it to be surrounded by the early 20th century decor and live music. Food is also served up alongside drinks. Address: Doma laukums 2, Riga. Telephone: +371 6722 8842 Website: www.bbars.lv

• Black Magic

Tasting like a cross between cough syrup and Jägermeister, black balsam is a cure-all elixir exclusive to Riga. Created to treat a poorly princess in the 18th century, it is still used to vanquish common ailments, and Black Magic is a bar dedicated to this wonder potion. Patrons can quaff balsam-inspired tipples and cakes in the dimly lit watering hole, which is decorated like an 18th-century pharmacy. Medieval music and waitresses in traditional garb add to the antiquated ambiance, but the prices don’t. Address: Kalku 10, Riga. Telephone: +371 6722 2877 Website: www.blackmagic.lv

• Gastro Pub Duvel’s

Gastro Pub Duvels has a wide menu with various meat and fish dishes, seafood, dishes cooked on real fire and coals, burgers and snacks that will not leave anyone indifferent. Here you can enjoy excellent cuisine and the widest selection of beer in Riga. Address: Meistaru iela 10/12, Centra rajons, Rīga. Telephone: +371 2233 3755 Website: www.gastropubduvels.lv

Clubs in Riga

• Depo

A crossroads for Riga’s alternative scene, this gregarious grunge haunt feels like a disused warehouse turned squat. Vinyl-spinning DJs, dirt cheap beers and a vivacious atmosphere lure in an eclectic clientele of metallers, techno aficionados and everyone in between. The party doesn’t get started until midnight, but once the shindig is in full swing it feels like it may never stop. Come back the following day for some reasonably priced hangover food. Address: Centra rajons, Riga. Telephone: +371 6722 0114 Website: www.klubsdepo.lv

• La Rocca

This banging nightclub claims to be the best in the Baltics. After an evening on La Rocca’s dance floor, punters might be tempted to reach the same conclusion. This sprawling, hedonistic club can cram in over 1,500 revellers, who flock to this Riga institution for raucous theme nights and some spectacular stage shows. Leave your inhibitions at the door and join the party. Address: Brivibas 96, Riga. Telephone: +371 6750 6030 Website: www.larocca.lv

Live music in Riga

• Ala Pagrabs

Hip, subterranean hangout with Latvian pub fare, lots of beer & concerts in an ancient wine cellar. We do know this industrial style bar is a great spot to catch some live music. Regarded as Riga’s original and best live music venue, Ala Pagrabs regularly hosts bands and club nights, attracting the trendy end of the alternative crowd. Address: Peldu iela 19, Centra rajons, Rīga. Telephone: +371 2779 6914 Website: www.folkklubs.lv

• Riga Rock Cafe

There is nothing remotely café-like about this underground rock joint. However, its raw, industrial décor and dim lighting are all part of the charm. Local rock and metal bands ply their trade on the small stage, while a head-banging crowd consume irresistibly cheap drinks at heroic speed. A great spot to imbibe Riga’s alternative scene. Address: Centra rajons, Mārstalu 2/4, Riga. Telephone: +371 2574 9433

Classical music in Riga

• Great Guild Hall (Lielā Gilde)

This is the home of the Latvian National Symphony Orchestra, which shares the Guild Hall stage throughout the year with a broad range of national and international acts ranging from jazz bands to classical pianists. Address: Amatu 6, Riga. Telephone: +371 6722 4850 Website: www.lnso.lv

• Riga Cathedral (Rigas Doms)

The acoustics at Riga Cathedral, along with its famous organ, make this venue an obvious choice for big recitals. For centuries, it has been one of Latvia’s major live music venues, a tradition that continues to this day. All sorts of concerts are held here throughout the year. Address: Centra rajons, Doma laukums 1, Riga. Telephone: +371 2890 9686 Website: www.doms.lv

Dance in Riga

• Latvian National Opera

The quality of the Riga Ballet is a legacy of the Soviet Union, when Riga’s ballet school was third in importance, after the Kirov and Bolshoi. The company has produced many major stars, including Mihail Baryshnikov, now a famous modern ballet star living in the USA, as well as Maris Liepa, who went on to star for the Bolshoi Ballet, and his son, Andris Liepa, who found his own slice of fame with the American Ballet Theatre in 1989/90. The company performs at various venues around the city. Address: Aspazijas bulvāris 3, Centra rajons, Rīga. Telephone: +371 6707 3777 Website: www.opera.lv

Theatres in Riga

• Dailes Theatre

Theatre in Riga dates back as far as the 13th century. During the 1970s, Riga was regarded as a centre of avant-garde exploration and some of this spirit still remains today. The Dailes Theatre, constructed in the modernist style, is one of the main theatres. Others include the National Theatre (Nacionālais Teātris), New Riga Theatre (Jaunais Rigas Teātris) and the Russian Drama Theatre (Krievu Dramas Teātris). Address: Brivibas 75 , Riga. Telephone: +371 6729 4444 Website: www.dailesteatris.lv

Riga Food And Drink

Food In Riga

• Rasols (potato salad)

Similar to a Russian potato salad, rasols is packed with eggs and pickled vegetables, enveloped in a creamy sauce. Endlessly riff-able depending on your preference, rasols is more a method than a recipe—but the constants are potatoes, mayonnaise, sour cream, and pickled vegetables.

• Pupinu salati (bean salad)

Beans are the seeds from flowering plants in the Fabaceae family and are classified as legumes. Several beans grow in pods or capsules that develop from flowers. Other legumes include peas, peanuts, and lentils.

• Auksta Zupa (cold beet soup)

Auksta Zupa, also known as Cold Beet Soup or Cold Borscht, is a traditional Latvian dish that is particularly popular during the summer months.

• Meat (pork or chicken) shashlik

Shashlik is traditionally made using lamb or goat meat, but nowadays variations include pork, chicken, and beef. It’s made by marinating cubes of meat in a yogurt or vinegar-based sauce that penetrates the meat due to its acidity, infusing the flavor and tenderizing the meat.

• Smokedmeat or fish

Smoked fish, in particular, is rich in nutrients like omega-3 fatty acids, whilst many smoked meats have a high iron content. The smoking process often avoids many of the pitfalls which other types of meat-cooking experience with oils, fats and sauces. And this can make it a very low-fat cooking process.

• Asinsdesa (black sausages)

Black pudding is a distinct regional type of blood sausage originating in the United Kingdom and Ireland. It is made from pork or occasionally beef blood, with pork fat or beef suet, and a cereal, usually oatmeal, oat groats, or barley groats.

• Rye bread

Rye bread is typically made with a combination of rye flour and rye grains (Secale cereale). It comes in several forms, depending on the combination used, including: Light rye bread. This variety is made from only white rye flour, which comes from ground rye grain endosperm — the starchy core of the rye grain.

• Karbonāde (breaded pork chops)

Karbonāde Battered chicken or pork schnitzel. An absolute staple on most menus at roadside diners.

• Kartupeļu pankūkas (potato pancakes)

More like hash browns than the style of pancake made using leftover mashed potatoes, the primary ingredient here is uncooked shredded potato that’s combined with onion, egg, and flour. The potato mixture is then formed into patties and fried until each round is crisp and golden brown.

Drink In Riga