Sofia

Sofia Travel Guide

• About Sofia

Sofia is a city with a sparkling future; it’s the energetically resilient Bulgarian capital that still revels in its own idiosyncrasies as it forges towards a more cultured and urbane existence. Dramatically ringed by the Balkan Mountains to the north and the Vitosha Mountains to the south, Sofia stands on an open plain 550m (1,804ft) above sea level in western Bulgaria. It is this duality between urban sprawl and natural wonder that makes it a fascinating place to visit, with more to arrest the attention than many other Eastern European capitals. Development is rife and roads are mercifully being improved. It boasts boutique hotels galore and metro lines and stations enough to make Western visitors look on with jealousy. Communist influence still pervades; the country’s short occupation from 1945 to 1989 is still visible in its neo-Stalinist architecture. Despite this, most of Sofia’s major tourist attractions pre-date this era. Buildings like the Aleksandar Nevski Cathedral, the Central Sofia Synagogue and the Banya Bashi Mosque are stark reminders of the country’s multicultural past, whilst the charming UNESCO-listed Boyana Church in the Vitosha Mountains is an absolute must-visit. Locals strike the balance between Russian insouciance and Mediterranean flare and continue to be proud up-keepers of the country’s hospitable heritage. The Bulgarian language and Cyrillic alphabet still prosper, resisting tourism’s penchant for English internationalism, which is not widely spoken outside of restaurants, shops and hotels. Visitors quickly realise that although the city sprawls with a population of over a million, most of the action happens within a 20-minute walk. So whether you’re shopping on Vitosha Boulevard or sipping rakia (fruit brandy) in a bar, Sofia’s best surprises are all accessible by foot, unless you’re venturing into the Vitosha Mountains.

• Sofia History

Originally known as Serdica, Sofia was founded 3,000 years ago by the Thracians, but the history of the city dates back around 7000 years, making it one of the oldest cities in Europe. The Thracians and a succession of different peoples lived in the city and its surroundings in recent human history, although few are as famous as Philip of Macedonia and his son Alexander the Great who briefly occupied the city around 400BC. By 29BC, Sofia was in Roman hands under the Emperor Trajan. He, along with his successor Diocletian, set about expanding the city. Loved by the emperors (Constantine the Great called it ‘my Rome’), it later became a hub of the Eastern Roman and then Byzantine Empires, before being razed by the Huns in 447. Rebuilt by Emperor Justinian, it remained a key part of Byzantium until 809 when it was conquered by the Bulgarians under Khan Krum. Returned to Byzantium in 1089, it pinged back and forth between Byzantine and Bulgarian Empires until 1189 when it was conquered permanently by Bulgaria’s Tsar Ivan Asen I. Another conquest, this time by the Ottomans, came in 1382, and the Turks were in Sofia to stay. Under the Ottomans, Sofia flourished and rose to become one of the Empire’s leading cities – a position it held until well into the 18th century. With the Turks finally ousted in 1878 during the Russo-Turkish War, Sofia became the capital of the newly independent Kingdom of Bulgaria. WWI brought the city close to disaster, after it joined the war on the Axis side, while 20 years later, again fighting with the Axis Powers, it found itself heavily bombed by the RAF. The end of WWII brought Soviet occupation to the city as Bulgaria became part of the Eastern Bloc. Rapid industrialisation followed, with new factories and high-rise apartment blocks springing up all over the city. Independence returned after the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, though things looked precarious in the 1990s as hyperinflation took hold. Today, politically calm and thriving economically, Sofia is back to its beautiful best.

• Did you know?

The oldest building in Sofia is the Church of St. George, which started life as a Roman public bath in the 4th century. Sofia wasn’t always called Sofia. It began life as Serdica, before becoming Sredets under the Slavs and Triaditsa under the Byzantines. The famous Sveti Kliment Ohridski University was founded in 1888.

• Weather in Sofia

Sofia has a humid continental climate with wet summers and cold winters. The most pleasant months to visit Sofia are May, June and September, warm enough to enjoy the parks and outdoor cafés but without the crowds. Spring (March to May) is warm but rainy, with temperatures rising from 6°C (43°F) in March to 15°C (59°F) in May. Time your visit with festivities such as Orthodox Easter, Liberation Day (3 March), and St George’s Day (6 May). Nestled in the Sofia Valley at an altitude of 552m (1,812ft) and surrounded by mountains, the city usually enjoys pleasant summer months (June to August), except when heat waves strike, which can send temperatures to over 30°C (86°F). August can also be a month of high rainfall. Autumn (September to November) is largely dry, before heading into chilly winter (December to February) with temperatures hover around freezing point and snow is common.

Things to see in Sofia

Attractions

• Boyana Church

Lying 8km (5 miles) southwest of Sofia, this is one of Bulgaria’s most cherished treasures and an absolute must-visit. The tiny medieval church was closed to the public for 38 years while it underwent restoration work, finally reopening in 2000. It is best known for its exquisite 13th-century frescoes, depicting scenes from the Bible and the lives of the saints. These are renowned for their realism and considered among the best examples of the Bulgaria’s medieval art. Boyana is one of ten Bulgarian cultural monuments included on the UNESCO list of World Heritage sites (seven of which are cultural sites, three natural). In fact, it’s so hallowed that admission is restricted to 10 minutes in the company of a guide. Accessed by minibus 21 from Boulevard Patriarh Evtimly. Address: Boyana, Ulitsa Boyansko Ezero, Sofia. Telephone: +359 295 90 939 Opening times: Daily 09:30-18:00. Website: www.boyanachurch.info Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Hram-pametnik Aleksandar Nevski (St Alexandar Nevski Memorial Church)

Probably Sofia’s most photographed monument, Alexandar Nevski is a magnificent neo-Byzantine cathedral-sized church, topped by copper and golden domes and one of the largest Eastern Orthodox churches in the world. Built between 1882 and 1912, the church takes its name from Alexandar Nevski, credited with saving Russia from Swedish troops in 1240, and the patron saint of the family of the tsar at that time, Alexander II (also known as Tsar Osvoboditel, the ‘Tsar Liberator’) who led the army that drove out the Turks. The inside is even more impressive; a darkened interior with vast domes covered with delicate murals. The central altar is dedicated to St Alexandar Nevski, the southern altar to St Boris (who brought Christianity to Bulgaria) and the northern altar to Saints Cyril and Methodius (who created the Cyrillic alphabet). The Icon Museum, located in the crypt, has over 300 icons and mural frescoes tracing the development of Bulgarian icon-painting from the late ninth century up to the end of the 19th century. Address: Ploshtad Aleksandar Nevski, Sofia. Telephone: +359 298 81 704 Opening times: Daily 07:00-18:00. Website: www.cathedral.bg Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• The Museum Of Socialist Art

Opened in 2011, this new addition to Sofia’s cultural scene boasts a fascinating collection of Socialist sculpture, paintings and other art. The main spectacle is the outdoor sculpture park, where visitors are greeted by the vast statue of Lenin that once stood in the centre of the city. The red star taken from the top of the Socialist Party headquarters is also here as well as over 70 other relics that are inexorably linked to Bulgaria’s past. Uplifting and melancholy in turn, the most frustrating part of the museum is that it lacks a sign. Look for the statues in the garden instead. Address: Ulitsa Lachezar Stanchev 7, Sofia. Telephone: +359 879 834 043 Opening times: Tues-Sun 10:00–18:00. Website: www.nationalgallery.bg Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: No UNESCO: No

• National Art Gallery

Located inside the former Tsar’s palace, Sofia’s National Art Gallery houses Bulgaria’s largest art collection, with some 60,000 works. Its creaky wooden floors, original marble fireplaces and high ceilings ensure the building is a sanctuary from the Sofia heat, which can feel quite sticky in the summer. When Sofia was conquered by the Turks in 1382, this building became akonak (headquarters) of the local Ottoman administrators. At one time these were used to interrogate Bulgarian rebels. These days it charts the development of Bulgarian art from 1878 to the mid-20th century, beginning with the Revivalist period and portraiture with painters like Zograf, Dospevski and Pavlovic. Moving into the early 20th century, examples of the popular 1930s movement includes scenes by Nikola Tanev, a Gaugin-esque Stoyan Sotinov and wonderful paintings of old Plovdiv by Tzanko Lavrenov. There are also regularly changing exhibitions from international artists. Address: 1 Knyaz Alexander I Boulevard, Sofia. Telephone: +359 298 000 93 Opening times: Tues–Sun 10:00-18:00. Website: www.nationalgallery.bg Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• The Natural History Museum

If small, wriggly things are not your bag, you probably won’t enjoy the National History Museum. After being greeted by two long-dead ostriches, the rest of the first floor is a combination of winged beasts, creepy crawlies and snakes. The line between stuffed animals and animal statues then becomes increasingly blurred, until a quite ridiculous scene between a tiger and a bear with two cubs having a stand-off in front of a row of Christmas trees. Similar scenes then continue throughout – don’t miss the python sinking its teeth into a baby deer’s neck. Address: 1 Tsar Osvobodoitel Boulevard. Telephone: +359 879 226 573 Opening times: Daily 10:00-18:00. Website: www.nmnhs.com Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Ethnographic Museum

After entering Hall 1 of the Ethnographic Museum you’ll be greeted with step-by-step instructions on how to make kirpich (bricks). It’s around this point you’ll probably consider the entrance fee money badly spent, but don’t give up. Ethnography is the study of different cultures and how they behave and evolve, and in this sense the museum mirrors its aims completely. After starting with the building blocks of Bulgarian rural life, things progress into an exhibition about the town of Yugavo in the Rhodope Mountains. It includes some beautiful black and white pictures from the village including men in fezzes and straight-backed woman, all with darkened skin from a lifetime in the fields. In the next rooms you will see a different kind of building block: looms and knitting needles the size of pneumatic drills. There are also children’s toys and dolls that would not out of place in a horror film today. Certainly one of the city’s less trumpeted attractions, it’s without doubt one of its most charming. Address: 1 Ploshtad Knyaz Aleksandar I, Sofia. Telephone: +359 879 409 318 Opening times: Tues-Sun 10:00–18:00. Website: www.iefem.bas.bg Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Kodi Seyfullah Efendi Camii (Banya Bashi Mosque)

During the years of Ottoman occupation there were 70 mosques in Sofia, but today there is only one still functioning. Banya Bashi Mosque was built in 1576 by Mimar Sinan, who also built the Sultan Selim Mosque in Edirne and Istanbul’s famous Blue Mosque. The mosque’s finest feature is its domed ceiling, restored to its original design after the fall of Communism. Loudspeakers call the city’s Muslim minority to prayer five times a day: on Friday there can be as many as 400 worshippers in attendance. The mosque is not officially open as a tourist attraction but visitors are welcome outside prayer times, including women, just be sure to dress respectfully. The inside is decorated with fine blue tiles and calligraphy, citing texts from the Koran, as the portrayal of human figures is banned in Islamic art. Known as Banya Bashi, meaning ‘many baths’, outside the mosque there are the small remains of the original hammam (Turkish baths), unearthed in 2003-2004. Address: 2 Knyaginya, Maria Luiza Boulevard, Sofia. Telephone: +359 298 160 01 Opening times: Daily 06:00-22:00 (excluding prayer time). Website: www.grandmufti.bg Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Tsentralna Sofiiska Sinagoga (Central Sofia Synagogue)

Situated behind the Hali, the Central Sofia Synagogue is the second largest Sephardic synagogue in Europe. Designed by the Austrian architect Friedrich Grunanger, the synagogue was built to resemble an earlier synagogue in Vienna, which was destroyed by the Nazis. The century-old building is a square block of Spanish-Moorish design, with a large central dome lit by a showpiece 2,250kg (4,960lb) chandelier. The outer walls are ornamented with floral and geometric motifs. The synagogue was originally intended to accommodate 1,300 worshippers, but nowadays services are only attended by 50 or 60 people, and services on regular Sabbaths are usually held in a small room off the main gallery. Visitors must ring the bell on the gates for entry. Address: 18 Exarch Joseph Street, Sofia. Telephone: +359 2 983 1273 Opening times: Mon-Fri 09:00-17:00, closed Bulgarian and Jewish Sabbath and holidays. Website: www.sofiasynagogue.com Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• The Church Of St Nicholas The Miracle-Maker

If you need an antidote to garish, golden Orthodox churches, visit the three room crypt underneath the Church of St Nicholas (also known as the Russian Church). The walls are decorated with typically Orthodox imagery throughout and unsurprisingly St Nicholas is depicted as the star of the show. Visitors can write out prayers and drop them into the box at the end of the third room. Believers kneel and kiss the grey coffin of Bishop Seraphim, revered by many in the country, while offering marks of the cross for St Nicholas or loved ones. A genuinely powerful setting, the only thing you’ll be asked to pay for is a candle, should you wish to buy one. Address: Tsar Kalovan 8, Sofia. Telephone: +359 298 62 715 Opening times: Mon-Sun 08:00-18:30. Website: www.podvorie-sofia.bg Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: No UNESCO: No

• Rotonda Sveti Georgi (Rotunda of St George)

Standing in the courtyard of the Sheraton Balkan Hotel, the tiny sunken redbrick Rotunda of St George is the oldest preserved building in Sofia, built in the fourth century as a Roman temple. Careful restoration work has revealed three layers of exquisite medieval frescoes, which had been hidden by plaster during the 500 years of Ottoman rule. The impressive cupola bears a 14th-century portrait of Christ the Pantocrator, surrounded by four angels and symbols of the Evangelists. Beneath, 12th-century fresco work depicts 22 prophets holding scrolls, with texts alternately in Bulgarian and Greek. To the east lie excavated foundations of an octagonal-shaped Roman public building and paved street. Address: 2 Kniaz Alexander Dondukov Boulevard, Sofia. Telephone: +359 298 09 216 Opening times: Daily 08:00-19:30. Website: www.svgeorgi-rotonda.com Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

Tourist Offices

• Bulgarian Municipality Agency for Tourism

Address: 44 Oborishte Street, Sofia. Telephone: +359 294 34 728 Opening times: Mon–Fri 09:00–24:00. Website: www.visitsofia.bg The tourism office in Sofia is located in the underpass of the Sofia University St. Kliment Ohridski Metro station. Staff are incredibly helpful, speak English and can offer advice and assistance for all visitors to the city.

Things to do in Sofia

• Get thrashed at chess in Gradska Gradina

The bustling Gradska Gradina is the best place in the city to people watch. For a unique experience, get a drink from Spetama Caffe and take on the local chess wizard who resides next to the benches. What he lacks in teeth, he makes up for in imperious chess ability.

• Haggle for historical memorabilia at the Antique Market

Just outside the Aleksander Nevski Cathedral, two rows of stalls facing each other sell memorabilia diverse enough to delight war enthusiasts and fashionistas alike. Military garb is to the fore, and while some may question the authenticity it gives hagglers a great reason to bat down the already low prices.

• Shop with the locals at the Zhenski Pazar (Woman’s Market)

For years Zhenski Pazar was Sofia’s busiest market. It still sells a fantastic range of fruit and vegetables, cheese, cured meats, delicious homemade halva (a local sweet desert) and other Turkish-inspired goodies. Construction work is modernising the market, so squeeze in a visit before it’s dragged into the 21st century.

• Take in the churches, waterfalls and peaks of Vitosha Mountain

The sprawling Vitosha Mountain outside Sofia, where endless trails and walks await, is only 30 minutes away by car. Sofia Green Tour   Telephone: +359 885 523 630 Website: www.sofiagreentour.com  organise trips to the hills that take in the Boyana Church, Boyana Waterfall and the imposing Kamen Del peak. Their 15km (9 miles) route takes around seven hours.

• Watch a Levski Sofia football match

Bulgaria’s best-known football club: Levski Sofia Website: www.levski.bg  may be short of success recently but they remain the team to watch. The Georgi Asparuhov stadium is ten minutes away from the Aleksander Nevski Cathedral, so join supporters for drinks in the city centre before taking a slow wander to the ground.

Sofia tours and excursions

Sofia tours

• Free tours

Free Sofia Tour is a non-profit organisation offering free, English-language sightseeing tours of the Bulgarian capital by volunteers. The tours start at the corner of the Palace of Justice and finish at National Assembly Square. The two-hour tours run Monday-Sunday at 10:00, 11:00, and 18:00 in April-October, and at 11:00 and 18:00 in November-March. Telephone: +359 988 920 461 Website: www.freesofiatour.com

• Bus tours

The Sofia Sightseeing double-decker bus tour is a hop-on, hop-off circular trip where tickets are valid for 24 hours. Commentary is provided in many languages, and the official starting point is at 1200 from St Alexander Nevski Memorial Church. The main downside is that there is only one bus every hour. For reservations Telephone:  +359 878 864 160 , +359 878 575 200 Website: www.citysightseeing.bg

Sofia excursions

• Mount Vitosha

Packed at weekends with Sofia-dwellers, the highest ski resort in Bulgaria at Vitosha, 1,800m (5,905ft) above sea level, is perfect for skiing in winter and trekking in summer. The region is also famous for its rock formations, especially the moreni, or stone rivers, at Zlatnite Mostove (the Golden Bridges). Although not possessing the infrastructure of the main ski resorts in the country, with few well-maintained hotels and restaurants, nonetheless this makes a popular Sofia excursion – stick to weekdays if you want to avoid the crowds. The ski runs are of various lengths and difficulties, with chair and drag lifts and a gondola lift. Vitosha is easy to get to by public transport and is only 10km (6 miles) from Sofia. Website: www.bulgariaski.com

• Rilski Manastir (Rila Monastery)

Located 120km (75 miles) south of Sofia, the Rila Monastery is one of the most significant cultural monuments in Bulgaria, set dramatically within the beautiful alpine mountains of Rila National Park. The first monastery was founded by followers of the Bulgarian hermit St John of Rila in the 10th century. Monastic life continued at Rila throughout five centuries of Ottoman domination, but extensive fire damage means most of the buildings date from the 19th century. The central church’s outer walls are richly decorated with colourful scenes from the Bible, with well-detailed accounts of the torments of sinners in hell. Visitors can stay overnight in a sparse ‘cell’ before setting off to explore Rila National Park, where clearly marked mountain paths take walkers through dense pine forests. A bus to Dupnitza village leaves every day at 0800, from the central bus station in Sofia. Connecting buses to Rila village depart at 10:00 and 11:00, departing from Rila village for the monastery at 12:40. Telephone: +359 705 422 08 Website: www.rilamonastery.pmg-blg.com

Shopping in Sofia

Shopping in Sofia has improved immeasurably in the last decade and aspiring Carrie Bradshaws need not feel too bereft once they set foot on Bulgarian soil. Traditional trinkets like rose oil vials and baklitsa (wood carved wine bottles) are in abundance, while Vitosha Boulevard offers everything from Zara to Swarozski. Relatively speaking, prices are a little lower than in other European cities, though those used to the bespoke ranges of London and New York will struggle to find something similar in Sofia.

• Key areas

The main shopping areas in Sofia centre are on Vitosha Boulevard, Ulitsa Graf Ignatiev and Ulitsa Pirotska. Outlet shops are also big news, with many small shops selling designer labels for less. Most are found around Vitosha Boulevard, which is worth a visit for the view alone, where mountains are framed by verdant green trees and streetlights in an arresting urban vista.

• Markets

Sofia has several markets worth visiting. The Neo-Renaissance Tsentralni Hali (Central Food Hall) on Maria Luiza Boulevard is a spotlessly clean and well-organised bazaar, open daily and set over three floors. It specialises in bringing traditional fare to the fore. Situated on Stefan Stambolov Boulevard, Zhenski Pazar (Women’s Market) is open daily and sells all a woman (or man) could possibly desire. Here, you’ll find everything from food and clothes to homeware and antiques. There is a large book market at Ploshtad Slavejkov, near the National Theatre, which mainly flogs Bulgarian language texts. However, visitors should find second hand novels in English too. There is an antiques market outside the Aleksander Nevski Cathedral, which deals in military- and Communistthemed goods, along with wares you won’t find elsewhere in Sofia.

• Shopping centres

Over the last decade, several new shopping malls have helped transform the capital’s shopping culture. Mall of Sofia on Stamboliyski Boulevard is the largest, complete with bookshops, a food court and international brands like Nike and Swatch. CCS, on Arsenalski Boulevard, has six levels of bars, restaurants and a cinema, plus French fashions and Turkish homeware. Following a costly facelift, TsUM, on the Largo, now operates as a Western-style shopping mall, with cafes and shops across three floors.

• Opening hours

Most shops in Sofia are open either 09:00-18:30 or 10:00-19:00, Monday to Saturday, though malls often don’t close until 22:00. In central areas like Vitosha Boulevard, expect to find shops open on a Sunday.

• Souvenirs

Souvenirs such as reproduction icons, Russian dolls, jewellery, ceramics, wooden items, embroidered tablecloths and lace are for sale at stalls at Ploshtad Alekandar Nevski. Tourist shops also sell football shirts, naughty key rings and city-branded tat you can find anywhere. Luxury goods available include Bulgarian wines, notably the full-bodied red Melnik, and rakiya (fruit brandy), which tastes like less viscous ouzo, though there’s a lot of variety.

• Tax information

VAT in Bulgaria is 20% and visitors who live outside the EU are able to obtain a VAT refund from the airport, next to passport control.

Restaurants in Sofia

Although its dining scene is still rooted in traditional Bulgarian fare, most culinary trends are represented in Sofia. A typical meal will kick off with some rakia (fruit brandy), which is often served free by the restaurant, and then a Shopska salad. The Shopska is made of cucumber, tomato, onion and white cheese, and is such an institution you can expect to get it for breakfast, lunch or dinner (often whether you like it not). Mains are then generally a mix of grilled meats or rich stews such as the delicious chicken kavarma, and huge portions are mandatory. One thing to bear in mind is a lot of places will just serve food as it is made. Don’t be surprised to be getting your main while others are still enjoying their starter; in many places it’s just the way things are, so go with the flow, take a drink and be prepared to share. The Sofia restaurants below have been hand-picked by our guide author and are grouped into three pricing categories: Expensive (over 100 Lev) Moderate (40 Lev to 100 Lev) Cheap (up to 40 Lev) These Sofia restaurant prices are for a three-course meal with a half-bottle of house wine or the cheapest equivalent. They do not include tax or tip. A 10% tip for good service is expected.

Expensive

• Azahar

Cuisine: Spanish Your best place for lunch, dinner and business meetings. A unique dining experience in the heart of Sofia. Azahar is one of only two tapas restaurants in Sofia where you can expect to find top quality food that is as good as anything you’d find in Andalusia. The menu takes in Spanish staples such as paella and antipasti plates stacked high with salty piggy goods, along with a frequently rotating list of specials. As per its influence, the wine list leans towards Spanish plonk like Rioja. Address: Lozenets, ul. “Krum Popov” 84, Sofia. Telephone: +359 888 020 020 Website:www.azahar.bg

• Unica 

Cuisine: Italian Open your eyes! A beginning lies ahead of you. A NEW door opens. With a view. A new perspective. Inwards. The human eye is UNIQUE. They say it’s a window to the soul. We will open a window to food, to beauty, and you can breathe freely. Although we are in the center of Sofia. We will not start with loud words and promises that we are UNIQUE. We’ll just give you a wink that we’re here. And we’ll let you get to know us. New. Different. Yours. Come and see us! We are UNICA. We could be your love. At first sight! Address: Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd 8A, Sofia. Telephone: +359 876 888 080 Website: www.unica.bg

• Piatto Collezione

Cuisine: Italian In the name of the perfect italian culinary experience, at piatto collezione we do not rely only on the taste or the interior, our concept is to offer you a complete experience of authentic food and emotions. we work with selected flours and natural ingredients produced in italy, Address: Sofia Center, ul. “Verila” 5, Sofia. Telephone: +359 883 762 222 Website: www.piatto.bg

Moderate

“Stariya Chinar” has been a favorite restaurant chain of several generations for more than 20 years. With a long history and established traditions, hospitality has always been at the heart of our restaurants over the years! We convey it through the cozy atmosphere, personal service and, last but not least, our diverse specialties. Address: Knyaz Alexander Dondukov Blvd 71, Sofia. Telephone: +359 887 455 050 Website: www.stariachinar.com

• Hadjidraganov’s Houses Restaurant

Cuisine: Bulgarian If you want to be led by the hand into the belly of all that Bulgarian cuisine has to offer, then Hadjidraganov’s is a must-visit. As with many traditional restaurants, the menu is never ending. Thankfully the standard is consistent throughout and the service is nigh on perfect. Try anything the staff recommend. The décor is made up of faux oakbarrelled walls, brightly patterned chairs, carved benches and lights dangling in ice buckets. If the weather is good, get a seat out the back. Don’t worry about making reservations, the place is vast. Address: Ulitsa Kozloduy 75, Sofia. Telephone: +359 899 917 837 Website: www.kashtite.com

• Pod Lipite

Cuisine: Bulgarian Going back to 1926, Pod Lipite (Under the Linden Trees) is one of the oldest restaurants in Sofia and remains popular with visitors and locals alike. With ingredients sourced almost exclusively from the restaurant’s own farm, there is a touch of the homemade about it all. The Gergeovski roast lamb is a must, as are the pan-fried wild mushrooms with fresh herbs. Address: Ulitsa Elin Pelin 1, Sofia. Telephone: +359 886 801 227 Website: www.podlipitebg.com

Cheap

• Halbite

Cuisine: Bulgarian Halbite (meaning ‘The Beer Mug’ in Bulgarian) is a lovely earthy bar with Bulgarian food at very reasonable prices. With a little leafy garden, plus wooden tables in a series of small rooms inside, this friendly place has dishes like baked peppers with dill, or chicken casserole with mushrooms and peppers, and the usual long list of great starters. As its name suggests, there are also good local beers on tap. Address: Ulitsa Neofit Rilski 72, Sofia. Telephone: +359 878 737 786 Website: www.halbite.com

• Motto Club

Cuisine: Bulgarian, Asian International A student favourite because of its central location, reasonable prices, and laid-back atmosphere, Motto Club has tasty rotating lunch menus that span Bulgarian, Mexican, Italian, and Asian. Also open in the evenings, Motto is a great value for your money and has a spacious garden in which to while away the hours. Address: Ulitsa Aksakov 18, Sofia. Telephone: +359 890 566 666 Website: www.motto-bg.com

• Supa Star

Cuisine: Soups, Salads For a country as fond of their soups as Bulgaria, it’s a surprise it took the capital so long to have a successful soupfocused restaurant. Opened in 2009, Supa Star always has at least half a dozen stews and broths on the menu, which they balance out with salads and sandwiches. Something of a culinary trailblazer in Sofia, and the subject of much imitation, but Supa Star is still the top dog. Address: Ulitsa Tsar Shishman 8, Sofia. Telephone: +359 882 908 678

Sofia Nightlife

Sofia loves to party and thanks to virtually non-existent licensing laws, the city is full of venues that are open all times of the day and night. The biggest concentration of bars and cafés in Sofia lies to either side of Vitosha Boulevard, and the increasingly hip Ulitsa Rakovski. House, techno and trance are popular with the many clubs found in Studentski Grad, but for a genuine slice of current Balkan music head to a Chalga bar. Chalga consists of a Euro-house beat spliced with Balkan and Gypsy rhythms, and generally a female R&B vocal. For good up-to-date Sofia information on nightlife as well as cultural events, pick up a copy of The Insider’s Guide from the Bulgarian Municipality Agency for Tourism at 44 Oborishte Street.  Otherwise check out Visit Sofia                  ( Website: www.visitsofia.bg ). The Programata     ( Website: www.programata.bg ) Tickets to cultural events are available from the National Palace of Culture (NDK) or from the individual venues’ box offices.

Bars in Sofia

• By the Way

This stylish, centrally located lounge bar is a favourite for fashion forward city residents. Good for a coffee or brunch, it really gets going in the evening when cocktails flow and urbanites flock to the bar after work. Set on two levels, a large window in front of the bar ensures there’s plenty of light, and there’s outside seating too. Address: Ulitsa G.S. Rakovski 166, Sofia. Telephone: +359 298 03 836 Website: www.bytheway.bg

• Hambara

Underground and un-signposted, some claim that half the fun of Hambara is finding it in the first place. Thankfully this genuine one-off is well worth the effort. A haven for musicians, artists and bohemian types, this two level crypt is lit only by candles. You’ll often find someone tinkling on the piano in the corner, or picking at a violin, but always expect a smoky atmosphere as customers contentedly chug on cigarettes here and the ventilation system is on its last lungs. Address: Ulitsa 6 Septemvri 22, Sofia. Telephone: +359 24 13 746

• Raketa Rakija Bar

Required visiting if you want to sample Sofia’s best raki (fruit brandy), the retro Raketa Rakija Bar has over 50 varieties of the stuff on its shelves. Fortunately, for those that don’t enjoy it (a distinct possibility), Raketa also serves up a mean cocktail. The modern European and Balkan food on offer is of a high standard too and it’s got a great spot by the park in Yanko Sakazov. Certainly one of the most reliably hip venues in Sofia, it’s decked out in old Soviet artwork and regularly plays host to temporary art exhibitions. Address: 17 Yanko Sakazov Boulevard, Sofia. Telephone: +359 244 46 111 Website: www.raketarakiabar.bg

Clubs in Sofia

• Carrusel Club

Carrusel Club is famous for its opening times (it never shuts) and its three levels playing dance, pop and other local favourites. One of the more flamboyant venues in the city, it’s renowned for being a hangout for the more colourful proponents of community, as well as being the most kindly. In the summer there’s a roof terrace for ray-catching. Address: ulitsa, Georgi S. Rakovski 108,  Sofia. Telephone: +359 877 078 080 Website: www.carruselclub.com

• Gramophone Live&Event Club

The recently reconstructed Retro Club Gramophone has top DJs who love dropping ‘evergreen’ dance classics. The décor is dark and retro, with big angel wings on the walls and dramatic lighting. At the weekend, things go on until dawn, where you’ll find plenty of well-oiled revellers throwing fingers into the air. Big warned though, despite doors opening at 2200, things don’t realty get pumping until way past witching hour. Address: Sofia Center, Budapeshta Street 6, Sofia. Telephone: +359 898 829 676 Website: www.gramophoneclub.com

• Yalta

The archly minimalist Yalta could (and probably would) lay claim to the title of best club in Eastern Europe. It’s certainly the most respected in Bulgaria, and retains a high international profile. Regularly featuring highly in DJ Mag’s world’s top 100 clubs list, it represents all strands of electronic music, with a lean towards trance and house. This is reflected in the names of DJs that have played there over the years: Paul Oakenfold, Roger Sanchez, Sander Kleinenberg and Danny Tenaglia have all mounted the stage, as well as endless local stars. With three rooms and a suitably thumping sound system, Yalta is definitely your club if dance music is your thing. Address: Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard, Sofia. Telephone: +359 897 870 230

Live music in Sofia

• Club Maze

An underground club that regularly features the key movers and shakers in the Bulgarian independent music scene, Club Maze has old world charm, with décor that features old television sets and barrels and drinks that come in glass jars. Club Maze is more chilled than some of the other live music venues in Sofia. Address: Ulitsa Hristo Belchev 1, Sofia. Telephone: +359 899 102 177

• Sofia Live Club

Situated in the underpass by the fountains at the National Palace of Culture (NDK) is Sofia Live Club. This 270-seat venue, opened in 2009, has become the place to go for music lovers not taken with the large scale arena vibes of the NDK. Blues is extremely popular in the region, with Bulgarian and international acts represented. It also has room for tribute acts, live jazz musicians and DJs later on. Address: National Palace Of Culture, Sofia. Telephone: +359 886 660 720 Website: www.sofialiveclub.com

• Swingin’ Hall

If you want a genuine taste of Sofia’s underground music scene, calling in at Swingin’ Hall should be high on your list. Dingy and demure, with passionate red walls, low dungeon-like ceilings and exposed brickwork, this bar pulls together a line-up of local and international acts across jazz, rock and pop. It’s popular with the purists as all the music comes live and the Sunday night jam sessions are the stuff of local legend. Address: 8 Dragan Tzankov Boulevard, Sofia. Telephone: +359 896 840 161 Website: www.swinginghall.bg

Sofia Food And Drink

Best Sofia Food

• Mekitsa – Bulgarian Donuts For Breakfast

Mekitsa (Bulgarian: мекица, romanized: mekitsa, lit. ‘softness’; plural mekitsi) is a traditional Bulgarian dish made of kneaded dough made with yogurt that is deep fried. They are made with flour, eggs, yogurt, a leavening agent, water, salt, and oil.

•  Banitsa – Sweet or Savory Bulgarian Pastry

Banitsa is prepared by layering a mixture of whisked eggs, plain yogurt, and pieces of white brined cheese between filo pastry and then baking it in an oven. Traditionally in Bulgaria, lucky charms are put into the pastry on certain occasions, particularly on New Year’s Eve.

•  Bulgarian Cold Cut Meats

Souk consists of ground meat (usually beef), with various spices including cumin, sumac, garlic, salt, and red pepper, fed into a sausage casing.

•  Lutenitsa, Lyutenitsa – Bulgarian Spread

Roasted peeled pepper, tomato puree, Roasted peeled eggplant, Sunflower oil, Sugar, Salt, Onion, Starch, Cumin, Black Pepper. Making lyutenitsa is a tradition that goes beyond the simple providing of a spread for the morning toast.

•  Shopska Salad, Shopska Salata – Bulgarian Iconic Salad

The dish is made from tomatoes, cucumbers, onion/scallions, raw or roasted peppers, and sirene, a white brined cheese similar to feta. The vegetables are usually diced and salted, followed by a light dressing of sunflower oil (or olive oil, which is less authentic), which is occasionally complemented by vinegar.

•  Tarator Soup – Cold Yogurt Soup

Making Tarator is as simple as it gets. Chop up the cucumbers, walnuts, and dill, mince the garlic, then add plain yogurt, water, and salt, and mix everything together in a bowl or a juice jug. To make it easier to get the lumps out of the yogurt, it’s best to add a small amount of water at a time.

•  Meshana Skara

Meshana skara or mixed grill is a traditional Bulgarian meal consisting of a platter full of meat and sides. The platter should contain one kyufte, one pork steak, one kebapche, and one pork skewer. The meat is usually accompanied by french fries, lyutenitsa, and bean salad with onions.

•  Sarmi

Sarmi are round or oblong balls made of vine or cabbage leaves with filling made of minced meat and rice. This is a dish which is also popular in other countries; in Bulgaria there are a lot of versions for its preparation.

•  Shopska Salata

The dish is made from tomatoes, cucumbers, onion/scallions, raw or roasted peppers, and sirene, a white brined cheese similar to feta. The vegetables are usually diced and salted, followed by a light dressing of sunflower oil (or olive oil, which is less authentic), which is occasionally complemented by vinegar.

•  Shkembe

Bulgaria’s most famous chef, the television star Ivan Zvezdev, called shkembe chorba the country’s favorite soup. It has similarities with dishes from other countries, also cooked with calf stomach. In Serbia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, its analog is shkembi; in Hungary, pacal leves and in Romania ciorbă de burtă.

• Kiselo Mlyako

Kiselo mlyako’s uniqueness lies in the peculiarities in the climate of the region and the very specific way in which it is prepared – using a combination of the two strains: Lactobacillus Bulgaricus and Streptococcus Thermophilus. This yogurt, made from sheep, cow, and buffalo milk, is an essential part of Bulgarian people’s staple diet. It is fermented with Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophilus, both of which are considered thermophilic (cultured in the temperature range between 37 and 45℃).

•  Sofia’s Moussaka

Greek Layered Bake with Beef, Vegetables and Béchamel. This classic Greek dish of layered thinly sliced potato, aubergine and lamb is topped with a creamy béchamel sauce.

Drink In Sofia

The city is known for its 49 mineral and thermal springs. Artificial and dam lakes were built in the twentieth century. Today we feature the city of Sofia. Founded in the seventh century BC, Sofia is the third oldest capital of Europe (after Athens and Rome).

• Rakia

If you are invited to a Bulgarian home, you are almost 100 percent sure to be offered a generous glass of rakia. This strong alcohol is distilled from fruit, such as grapes, plums, pears, apricots and others. It’s infused with Bulgarian national pride, since many people still produce their own homemade rakia. It is served as an apéritif, usually with a big plate of Shopska salad or cured meat and local cheeses. On frosty winter days, it is served hot with honey (and sometimes black pepper). Its hot variety is believed to be a cure for colds as well.

• Pelin

Pelin is a bitter wine-derived drink. During the process of fermentation, the herb artemisia absinthium (in Bulgarian, pelin, hence the name of the drink) is added to the wine. Pelin can be made from both white and red wine. It is relatively hard to find on restaurant menus except at traditional restaurants, but if you have Bulgarian friends, you can ask them to find a bottle of homemade pelin for you.

• Menta

Menta is a mint-based strong alcohol that is one of the symbols of summer in Bulgaria. You will see many people on the beach sipping refreshing bright green cocktails made of menta and sparkling water or menta and Sprite. The boldest combination you can try is menta and milk. Menta means vacation, beach and relaxation in the collective mind of the locals, so it’s impossible to see it consumed during any other season. The alcohol itself is made of mint leaves (or mint extract), sugar and pure alcohol.

• Mastika

Another summer alcoholic legend, mastika, will remind you of the Greek ouzo. It is served ice cold and is clear until you add water or ice to it, which will turn it cloudy and fill it with little crystals. The strong anise flavor is not everyone’s favorite, but it’s worth at least trying if you want to indulge in a typical Bulgarian beach experience.

• Craft beer

Bulgaria is still a terra incognita for beer lovers with just a few craft beer breweries in the country that are mostly unheard of abroad. It doesn’t mean they can’t surprise you with flavor combinations and bold experiments though. The richest craft beer scene is in Sofia, where you can find the biggest number of beer shops, beer gardens and specialized beer tastings.

• Homemade liqueurs

For years Bulgarians have produced homemade fruit liqueurs, using rakia as a base, with the sour cherry liqueur (vishnovka) being the all-time star. These sweet alcoholic drinks are made of fruit, sugar and strong alcohol, and are mainly preferred by women.