Split

Split Travel Guide

• About Split

Overlooking the Adriatic Sea and backed by the rugged Dinaric Mountains, the splendid Dalmatian city of Split is a living, breathing museum. Built upon a 1,700-year-old palace, Ancient Roman architecture forms a backdrop to modern-day life here, with fashionable boutiques and quaint cafés interspersed with the ruins of the imperial fortress. The former holiday home of the Roman Emperor Diocletian remains popular with modern day tourists too – thanks in no small part to his architectural efforts almost 2000 years ago. At the heart of the old city lies the ancient and roughly square fortifications of Diocletian’s Palace, along with several museum housing the artefacts discovered inside. But there’s more to Split than Roman ruins and in the Riva, the city has its very own glitzy harbour promenade. Home to festivals, celebrations and political rallies by day, it becomes increasingly glamorous as darkness falls and is a good spot for a sundowner ahead of dinner at one of the city’s many excellent seafood supper joints. Not that the party ends there. Nightlife is a big deal for locals and tourists alike, and clubs remain packed until the early hours no matter what day of the week. Most do their recovering the next day on the beach – usually at Bacvice where you can watch locals playing picigin, a Dalmatian sport similar to volleyball where a small rubber ball is bounced between players in the sea’s shallows. When you want to escape the city, climb to the summit of Marjan Hill, which soars 180m (590ft) above the Adriatic, with lovely views out to the islands. Split is the gateway to most of these central Dalmatian Islands, including Brač, Hvar and Šolta, as well as the more distant Vis, Korčula and Lastovo. It is also becoming a major cruise ship destination, although if you avoid the old town by day, you would never know it.

• Split History

Inhabited for at least 1,700 years, Split’s earliest inhabitants were Neolithic tribesmen, although architectural development began with the Greeks who established a colony on the site of the city. But it wasn’t until the Roman Emperor Diocletian took a shine to the area that the city began to really take shape. Diocletian, who ruled between AD284-305, decided it was the perfect spot to retire to and built a vast palace, which was inhabited by as many as 10,000 people. Later in the 7th century, as Diocletian’s Palace began to become overcrowded, Split began to grow up around it. Although founded by an emperor and surrounded by the Ottomans, the town remained an independent entity with little outside influence until the 15th century. Between the 15th and end of the 18th century, Dalmatia (and Split) fell under the control of the Venetians. Under their auspices, the city developed into a major port and a hub for trade routes leading into Ottoman-controlled lands. After the fall of the Venetians in 1797, Split fell briefly under Napoleonic rule before being handed to the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. It remained under the Hapsburgs until WWI brought about the dissolution of Austria-Hungary and a change of ruler for Split. Dalmatia, along with Split, became a part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, which in 1929 changed its name to the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. Split became a key administrative and cultural centre under the new regime, a state of affairs that continued after WWII. This time, however, the new rulers were the Communists and although the city enjoyed an economic boom courtesy of shipbuilding, personal choice and freedom of speech became virtually non-existent. In 1991, following the Yugoslavian War, Croatia declared its independence and Split became part of the independent Republic of Croatia. In the years since, Split’s magnificent historical buildings have helped the city get back on its feet and have turned it into a thriving tourist destination. Now the third largest cruise port in the Mediterranean, its future looks assured.

• Did you know?

Diocletian’s Palace took more than 10 years to build with much of the work done by slaves. The Cathedral of Saint Domnius is the world’s oldest Catholic cathedral that remains in use in its original structure. The granite sphinxes in Diocletian’s Palace were originally from Egypt. They used to belong to Pharaoh Thutmose III.

• Weather in Split

Split enjoys a balmy Mediterranean climate, though it can get cold (thanks to the seasonal bura wind) and fairly wet in winter. Summers can be almost unbearably hot with many locals doing little or heading off to the islands in July and August, while crowds of tourists flood the city. Temperatures in July are around 30°C (86°F). Prices also tend to reach their peak in July and August. Subsequently, May, June and September are the best months to visit Split with cooler temperatures of around 25°C (77°F) and fewer crowds.

Things to see in Split

Attractions

• Croatian Maritime Museum

Located inside 17th century Gripe Fortress, the museum contains a range of different artefacts from various periods, including the oldest torpedoes in the world, a collection of anchors from ancient shipwrecks, nautical equipment and model ships from ancient galleys to modern cruise liners. It also tells the story of Adriatic fishing traditions. Address: Glagoljaša 18, Split. Telephone: +385 21 347 346 Opening times: Daily 09:00-19:00. Website: www.hpms.hr Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: No UNESCO: No

• Bačvice

This modest sand beach and concrete bathing area overlooking the shallow waters of Bačvice Bay is busy almost all year round. A number of busy waterside cafés and bars offer outdoor seating with a sea view. Popular with bathers by day, the beach also comes into its own at night when the bars and clubs kick off. Address: Bregovita ulica 11, Split. Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Dioklecijanova Palača (Diocletian’s Palace)

Designed as a retirement home for Emperor Diocletian in AD295, this vast complex is based on a rectangular plan measuring 215m (705ft) by 180m (590ft) and has four outer walls. The main public space is still intact, though much of the palace is now a labyrinth of stone buildings and paved alleys added from the 14th century onwards. Address: Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda, Split. Telephone: +385 21 348 600 Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Website: www.diocletianspalace.org Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Narodni trg (People’s Square)

Linked to Diocletian’s Palace by the Zeljezna Vrata (Iron Gate), this pedestrian-only space has been Split’s main square since the 14th century. Locals refer to this elegant space, which is paved with white marble and fringed by open-air cafés, as Pjaca (from the Italian, piazza). The centrepiece is the 15th-century town hall with three Venetian-gothic arches. Address: Narodni trg, Zadar. Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments

Established in 1893, making it one of the oldest museums in the country, this museum contains 150,000 artefacts, stone imprints, glass and ceramics originating from various historical periods. There are also examples of jewellery, weaponry and objects of everyday use, as well as a large number of stone monuments from early Croatian churches. Address: Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, Split. Telephone: +385 21 323 901 Opening times: Mon-Fri 09:00-20:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. Website: www.mhas-split.hr Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: No UNESCO: No

• Katedrala Sv Duje (Cathedral of St Dominius)

On Peristil, the core of the cathedral is a 3rd-century octagonal mausoleum, built for Diocletian. It became a church in the 7th century, when refugees from nearby Salona dedicated it to their former bishop. Climb the majestic 60m-high (197ft) bell tower for a bird’s eye view of the palace. Address: Ul. Kraj Svetog Duje 3, Split. Telephone: +385 21 345 602 Opening times: Mon-Sat 08:30-20:00. Website: www.smn.hr Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: No UNESCO: Yes

• Etnografski Muzej (Ethnographic Museum)

The Old Town branch of Split’s Ethnographic Museum offers a chance to explore one of the historic houses at the heart of Diocletian’s Palace. The medieval rooms have been painstakingly reconstructed and the galleries showcase a range of artefacts from bygone eras. Address: Severova ulica 1, Split. Telephone: +385 21 344 164 Opening times: Mon-Sat 09:00-15:00. Website: www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: No UNESCO: No

• Froggyland

Possibly Split’s most bizarre attraction, but a hit with visiting tourists nonetheless, Froggyland is an eccentric collection of 507 stuffed frogs, all arranged in different day-to-day situations. Kids in particular will adore the frog-focused recreations of a blacksmiths, carpentry shop, school, circus and tailors. Address: Kralja Tomislava 5, Split. Telephone: +385 99 444 7772 Opening times: Daily 10:00-22:00. Website: www.froggyland.net Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: No UNESCO: No

• Marjan

This 3.5km-long (2 miles) peninsula, rising west of the Old Town, is planted with pines and Mediterranean shrubs, and crisscrossed by a network of footpaths. The best sea views can be enjoyed from the southern slopes, following the path from Vidilica Café (above Varoš) to Bene recreation ground (on the tip of the peninsula). Address: Marjan, Split. Opening times: Daily 24 hours. Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Galerija Meštrović (Meštrović Gallery)

Designed in the 1930s by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s greatest 20th-century sculptor, this villa and its garden display a vast collection of his works in wood, marble, stone and bronze. The entrance ticket is also valid for Kaštelet (at no 39), where some of his bas-relief woodcarvings are on show in the chapel. Address: Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46, Split. Telephone: +385 21 340 800 Opening times: Tue-Sun 09:00-19:00. Website: www.mestrovic.hr Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

 Tourist Offices

• Split Tourist Information Centre

Address: Peristil bb, Split. Telephone: +385 21 348 600 Opening times: Mon-Sat 08:00-21:00, Sun 08:00-20:00. Website: www.visitsplit.com Maps, itineraries and general information on accommodation, transport and tours in the city are all available from the Split Tourist Information Centre.

Tourist passes

• The Splitcard

Website: www.visitsplit.com   offers discounts in various museums, restaurants and hotels, and with some car hire companies and travel agents. It is available from tourist offices and hotels and is valid for three days.

Things to do in Split

• Dive the best spots on the Dalmatian coast

The Dalmatian coast makes for some very special diving. The best spots are outside of Split, and operators like: Venus Telephone: +385 21 895 167 Website: www.venus-diving.com  can show you where. Vis is the highlight, with its famed Blue Grotto providing a thrilling experience. The island is also surrounded by a necklace of shipwrecks, making for challenging scuba diving.

• Enjoy a day’s stroll atop the Mosor mountain

Sometimes a summer stroll around Split can feel like hard work, but for outdoor types who want to hike the scenic surrounds a little sweat is worth the views. Mosor Mountain is a great day ramble, and is less than a 40-minute drive away. Split Adventure Telephone: +385 91 501 2913 Website: www.splitadventure.com  offer this and other great walks.

• Paddle to the Krka Waterfalls

The sea kayaking in and around the nearby islands is first rate. Visitors can paddle the warm waters to explore coves, bays and to pull up on deserted beaches. If you want to explore the inland waterways. Split Sea Kayaking Telephone +385 98 858 141 Website: www.splitseakayaking.com  run tours to Krka Waterfalls in the namesake national park.

• Sail around 1,000 islands

Croatia is emerging as one of Europe’s yachting hotspots and boasts over 1,000 islands for boats to explore. Split is a major sailing base and yachts can be hired out ‘bareback’ for those with full skipper qualifications. No less of a pleasure is a chartered boat. Sail Croatia   ( Website: www.sail-croatia.com )  offers both.

• Spend a day at the beach

Adriatic waters are renowned for their cleanliness, making swimming in Croatia a real pleasure. Split boasts a number of decent beaches, the most popular of which is Bačvice, just a 10-minute stroll from Diocletian’s Palace. Zlatni Rat on the island of Brač is also a choice spot and one of Split’s most famous beaches.

Split tours and excursions

Split tours

• Walking tours

The Tourist Guide Service, run by the Udruga Vodica (Guide Association), and Split Tours both offer walking tours of Split’s historic centre in a wide choice of languages and for groups or individuals. These take in the history of Diocletian’s Palace and its most interesting parts, as well as key Venetian and Austro-Hungarian parts of the old core too. Telephone: +385 21 360 058 , +385 21 352 533 Website: www.guides.hr

• Segway tours

Segway CityTour Split organises regular tours on their stand-up powered segways, innovative ‘personal transporters’. They range from the two-hour Split Grande Tour, through to a short basic segway trip that lets visitors see if this style of getting around suits them. Telephone: +385 91 333 1451 Website: www.segwaytoursplit.com

Split excursions

• Hvar

Hvar is undoubtedly one of the most striking of all the Croatian island towns, just a short ferry ride away from Split. Now a favourite of the international yachting community and trendy types from Zagreb, this chic oasis of cool bars and top-notch seafood restaurants enjoys a remarkable setting. Telephone: +385 21 741 059 Website: www.tzhvar.hr

• Salona

Just a few kilometres out of Split, towards the city’s airport, lays the romantic remnants of the old Roman city of Salona. Emperor Diocletian himself was born in the city and today visitors can walk around the site and its sweep of ruins that were once home to 60,000 inhabitants. Telephone: +385 25 48 790 Website: www.solin.hr

Shopping in Split

The prevalence of imported goods means that Split is not renowned as a shopping destination – that said, the centre is home to a lively market, souvenir stalls and little chic shops.

• Key areas

Diocletian’s Palace and the area around it are Split’s shopping heart. Podrum (the underground chambers between the Riva and Peristil), which is lined with stalls selling paintings and craftwork, is a good bet for souvenirs. Enoteka Terra, Prilaz brace Kaliterna 6, is ideal for quality Croatian wines and spirits. Aromatica, Dobrić 12, stocks herb-scented soaps, body creams and massage oils. Several small, exclusive boutiques and shoe shops are located within the palaces walls, while the big European high street fashion names are represented along Marmontova.

• Markets

To bag a bargain or simply appreciate the colour of local life in Split, head to Pazar, the charming open-air market, or Peskarija, the covered fish market, both just on the fringes of Diocletian’s Palace. Both markets open Monday to Saturday 08:00-14:00 and Sunday 08:00-11:00.

• Shopping centres

There are two shopping centres: City Center One, Vukovarska 207 and Joker, Put Brodarice 6, split over four levels and located about 15-20 minutes’ walking distance from the city centre.

• Opening hours

 Shops in Split are generally open Monday to Friday 09:00-13:00 and 17:00-20:00, Saturday 09:00-13:00, and sometimes on Sundays.

• Souvenirs

Croatian wines, spirits, food, arts and crafts are among the most popular souvenirs.

• Tax information

To enjoy tax-free shopping in Split, look out for shops displaying the ‘Tax Free’ shopping label. Make sure to fill in the paperwork in the shop and then make your claim on departure from Croatia. The minimum value of a valid purchase is 501HRK. See  ( Website: www.globalrefund.com )  for more details.

Restaurants in Split

Split has restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets these days. Highlights include the fresh local seafood and hearty Dalmatian specialities such as pršut (salted, dry-cured ham), pašticada (a marinated meat dish in fragrant sauce) and crnirižot (black seafood risotto). The Split restaurants below have been classed into three pricing categories: Expensive (over 300HRK) Moderate (150HRK to 300HRK) Cheap (up to 150HRK) These Split restaurant prices are for a three-course meal for one, with half a bottle of house wine including tax. Service is not included on bills with 10% service the norm.

Expensive

• Konobo Marjan

Cuisine: Seafood Lauded by locals, this pint-sized joint in the Varoš quarter is known for its grilled fish and impressive selection of Croatian wines. The price tag is a little high by Split standards, but it’s worth splashing out for. Be sure to book in advance to secure one of its red-and-white-checked tables. Address: Senjska 1, Split. Telephone: +385 98 934 6848 Website: www.konobamarjan.hr

• Nostromo Restaurant

Cuisine: Seafood The seafood could not be fresher at Nostromo, the finest seafood restaurant in Split, as it comes straight from the fish market just outside. Choose from a variety of white and blue fish or splash out on an Adriatic seafood platter to share. It comes heaving with grilled fish, squid, mussels and langoustines. Address: Kraj Sveti Marije 10, Split. Telephone: +385 91 405 6666 Website: www.restoran-nostromo.hr

• Restaurant Babilon

Cuisine: Mediterranean One of the oldest restaurants in Split, this established spot serves up perfectly cooked versions of traditional Croatian dishes. The fare is simple, focusing on meat, soups and seafood, but the quality is excellent. Babilon also does a mean pizza. Address: Ulica Georgea Washingtona 13, Split. Telephone: +385 21 344 777 Website: www.restaurant-babilon.com.hr

Moderate

• Enoteka Terra

Cuisine: Eastern European This cellar wine bar, located in Bačvice, is something of a local secret. Enjoy wonderful Croatian vino by the glass as you nibble on Croatian-style tapas at this top Split restaurant. The varied menu features the likes of spicy Slavonian sausage, pršut (air-dried ham), as well as dishes infused with pungent Istrian truffles. Address: Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, Split. Telephone: +385 21 314 802 Website: www.vinoteka.hr

• Restoran Jugo

Cuisine: Dalmatian Sailing types feast on the terrace of this glass-fronted, 1970s building that overlooks the yachts moored in the ACI marina. The stunning view back across the bay to the Riva and the Old Town more than rewards the walk to the restaurant and the Dalmatian dishes don’t disappoint either. Address: Uvala baluni bb, Split. Telephone: +385 21 398 900

• Soul Kitchen

Cuisine: Fusion Cooking everything from simple pizza and pasta dishes to perfectly cooked steak with truffles from Croatia’s Istrian region, Soul Kitchen caters to all tastes. Throw in the contemporary décor and relaxed ambience and it is easy to understand its popularity with a young crowd. Address: prilaz braće Kaliterna 8, Split. Telephone: +385 99 5555 950 Website: www.soulkitchen.restaurant

Cheap

• Kod Jože

Cuisine: Traditional Croatian This rustic konoba (traditional Croatian bistro) serves excellent fish and meat dishes. There is something on the menu to suit every budget from cheap and delicious seafood risotto to more pricey local langoustines (scampi). It gets massively busy in summer, though, so make sure to get in early. Address: Sredmanuška 4, Split. Telephone: +385 21 347 397 Website: www.smokvina.hr

• Pizzeria Galija

Cuisine: Italian Customers tuck into delicious brick-oven baked pizzas at heavy wooden tables in this informal, bustling pizzeria, close to the fish market. The central location and wonderfully creative selection of toppings help to make this one of the best pizza restaurants in Split. Address: Tončićeva 12, Split. Telephone: +385 21 347 932 Website: www.pizzeriagalija.com

• Šperun

Cuisine: Traditional Croatian This small, cosy restaurant in Split offers refined local cuisine, with an emphasis on seafood. Its interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paintings, and the daily special is often a good bet. Come early if you want to nab one of the outdoor tables and stay away from the fresh gilled fish if you’re on a tight budget. Address: Šperun 3, Split. Telephone: +385 21 346 999

Split Nightlife

Nightlife in Split is at its best in summer, with a range of outdoor cultural events and coastal bars and clubs staying open until the small hours. Within the palace, bars tend to close at around 0100, whilst the Riva cafés and bars tend to close even earlier. The free Visit Split guide has events listings and is available from the tourist office. For information about cultural events, pick up a monthly leaflet from the tourist office on the Peristil.

Bars in Split

• Jadran Beach Bar

Jadran Beach Bar With a long array of cool cocktails, plus its own swimming pool, this is one of the most popular clubs in Split. A young and appreciative local crowd lap up the house and techno that is served up by local DJs, some bigger names from Zagreb and even further afield. Address: Sustipanski put 23, Split. Telephone: +385 91 556 7819 Website: www.jadranbeachbar.com

• Central the Club

Welcome to the Central clubbing place of Croatia, A variety of world-class music performed by renowned Djs, attractive dancers and friendly staff, generate a perfect nightlife experience in a fascinating Club interior at the very heart of Split. Address: Trg Gaje Bulata 4, Split. Telephone: +385 913 323 234 Website: www.centralclub.hr

• Vidilica Café

Perfect for a sundowner, it’s worth the hike up above the sweaty Mediterranean swagger of Split’s city centre to enjoy the cool breezes of Marjan Hill at Vidilica Café. Sit on the terrace with a cold beer or Croatian coffee and watch the ferries buzz in and out of the port as the crowds file along the Riva. Address: Nazorov prilaz 1, Split. Telephone: +385 99 788 8482

Clubs in Split

• BOILER Club & Dining

Boiler is an open-air bar set above Split’s harbour that has wooden deck flooring and a dipping pool for steamy summer nights. Sipping a cocktail at Boiler’s circular bar, while you watch the ferries cruising by is an iconic summer experience. When the sun goes down, drinkers hit the decks and dance to the strains of old pop. Address: Marmontova ul. 9, Split. Telephone: +385 911 680 168 Website: www.byboiler.com

• The Daltonist

This club puts on one of the best indie nights in the city. In between hosting top DJs from around Eastern Europe, The Daltonist runs alternative events such as spoken-word evenings and pub quizzes. Address: Hrvojeva 10, Split. Website: www.thedaltonist.com

• Vanilla Club

For many years, an indispensable place to go out and have a good time in Split is definitely Vanilla. A favorite meeting place in Split from the very beginning, today as a club with tradition it is synonymous with top entertainment. The original visions of the club were based on good fun and service, but today people perceive Vanilla as a party zone and a place where there are no limits to a good time. Address: VIII, Osmih mediteranskih igara 21, Split. Telephone: +385 99 831 3050 Website: www.club-vanilla.hr

Live music in Split

• Fabrique Pub

From humble beginnings, until today, we have been sharing our passion and dream with you for more than 30 years. Places that combine the diversity and spirit of the whole world with delicious menus and loads of fun for all generations. Address: Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, Split. Telephone: +385 99 320 9330 Website: www.fgroup.hr

• O’hara’s Irish Pub

Rock and pop bands from around Croatia and elsewhere in the Balkans descend on this fun venue in Split, down by the water just east of Bačvice. Even when there is no band on this is still a great place to party with live DJs and is an especially good option for live music in the summer. Address: Ilićev pro. 1, Split. Telephone: +385 91 6040 866 Website: www.smokvina.hr

• Spaladium Arena

This large event, sport and concert space can hold 12,000 people. On the musical roster are rock and pop bands from all over Croatia, as well as big name international acts. Classical performances also feature regularly. Address: Zrinsko-Frankopanska 211, Split. Telephone: +385 21 560 111

Split Food And Drink

Food In Split

However, some stand out by staying true to their heritage, using locally sourced ingredients, and serving traditional dishes in a fine dining or casual setting. The traditional food in Split is predominantly Mediterranean, with an abundance of seafood, vegetables, and some meat, everything drizzled in olive oil.

• slow-cooked Pasticada

Pašticada is a beef roast cooked in a sauce consisting of red wine, prosek (a Croatian dessert wine similar to port) and prunes. You can serve it with mashed potatoes, but traditionally it is served on gnocchi.

• Black Risotto

Squids/Calamari, Cuttlefish and Prawns but what gives the black colour is the squid ink to the risotto

• Kroštule

Brač’s kroštule are made with a touch of acid (kvasina), while Istrian kroštule have a bit of white wine in the dough. Kroštule from the island of Hvar are made with brandy and traditional Dalmatian ones are made with limoncello-flavored dough. A lot of variations and a lot of different names, but in the end – all of them present a sweet and crunchy dessert perfect for snacking throughout the day!

• homemade gelato

Like ice cream, gelato uses milk, cream, and sugar, but it differs in proportions. Gelato uses less cream and more milk than ice cream and typically contains no egg yolks or eggs at all. Gelato is served slightly warmer than American ice cream and is also churned at a slower rate, introducing less air into the product.

Drink In Split

we recommend making an effort to find domestic, dalmatian drinks. There are some great craft beer breweries in Split and liqueurs made on Dalmatian rural homestead

• Beer

you can find all famous brands like Heineken, Bavaria, Becks, Budweiser, Carling, Corona, Desperados, Carlsberg, Erdinger, Hoegaarden, Holsten, Franzberg, and many others.

• Rakija

Fire Water (Rakija)It’s served in small glasses from 0,3 to 0,5 (300 ml to 500 ml). It’s also served like an aperitif (before the meal) or digestive (after a meal). Good restaurants will sometimes offer a glass of this hard stuff at the end of a meal.

• Dalmatia wine

The Dalmatia wine region is located in the far south of the country of Croatia. For more than two and a half thousand years wine has been produced on Hvar Island in the Dalmatia wine region.