Vienna

Vienna Travel Guide

• About Vienna

Vienna is a city that will surprise you. It’s a place where the romantic strains of Mozart mingle with hip-hop beats, where stylish, cutting-edge bars sit opposite coffee houses frequented by grand dames and their miniature dogs; and where traditional delicacies from Naschmarkt stalls are sampled alongside modern and experimental cuisine. The city today is a beguiling mix of old and new, perhaps best illustrated by the innovative Museums Quartier cultural district. Here the courtyard of the old Spanish riding stables, featuring Vienna’s largest baroque facade, have been transformed into a dizzying example of contemporary museum architecture. Exquisite furnishings, stunning avant-garde works and pre-historic relics are just some of the cultural gems in residence. For most, Vienna is classical music, imperial history and monumental architecture; for others, it is forever linked with The Third Man and its haunting Harry Lime Theme. This is a city of art and thought. It’s where Klimt crafted The Kiss and where The Secession movement marked a new age of painting. Ideas were forged here in a white-hot crucible of modernity; culture was transformed in an age of reason and thought. But the city is not just about these ‘classic experiences’. Visitors to Vienna today will notice that something powerful is occurring in the Austrian capital: it’s alive. New buildings are everywhere: Zaha Hadid’s Wiener Wirtschaftsuniversitat library is a stunning new sight on the skyline, as is the DC Tower (Austria’s tallest building) which has the luxury Melia Hotel halfway up it. Vienna is cool right now and – whisper it – it’s even challenging Berlin. Visit Vienna Design Week or Waves Festival, both in September, and you will no longer think Vienna is fuddy-duddy. Hip bands, fashion designers and architects are flooding the city. Edgy bars where artists and students hang out are energising. This is a city that has a rich past, but it’s one that’s going places too.

• Vienna History

By the 20th century, Vienna was the largest German-speaking city in the world and the capital of the mighty AustroHungarian Empire. But its roots lie in another empire, that of the Romans, to whom Vienna was known as the battle-scarred frontier town, Vindobona. When the Romans finally withdrew, the town became an important centre of Celtic Christianity but, by 976, Leopold I of Babenberg became count of the surrounding district that eventually grew into the Duchy of Austria. The real making of Vienna was another 200 years away when the city finally found its feet under Duke Henry II Jasomirgott who moved the Babenberg capital to Vienna in 1145. From here, the city continued to grow and expand, and by 1483, had become the de facto capital of the Holy Roman Empire under the Habsburgs. The city was occupied by Hungary between 1485 and 1490, and it also became a front line city once more, this time in the ongoing wars between the Habsburgs and the Ottoman Empire, with Turkish armies twice halted just short of the city gates. By 1804 and the Napoleonic Wars, Vienna was secure and had become capital of the Habsburg’s Austrian Empire. In 1867, with the signing of the Austro-Hungarian Compromise, it became the leading city of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and had the building boom to go with it. But Vienna’s dominance came to an end when Archduke Franz Ferdinand was murdered in Sarajevo in 1914. Austria went to war and was defeated. The Habsburg’s were no more. Demoralised, Vienna became a hotbed of socialist politics and violent outbreaks. All this ended with Anschluss (union) with Germany in 1938; but once again, the ensuing war left Austria and Vienna badly damaged. The Soviets took the city from the Nazis in 1945 and once they withdrew in 1955. Vienna once more became the capital of Austria and slowly began to rebuild. Palaces and concert halls were restored, while, in the 1970s, Vienna became home to several large international organisations. Today, the city is a peaceful place with little sign of the violent conflicts that once convulsed it.

• Did you know?

The snow globe was invented by Erwin Perzy I in Vienna in 1900. He was attempting to make a light bulb at the time. Vienna is famous for its composers with Strauss, Mozart and Wagner among those to live in the city. PEZ candy was invented in Vienna in 1927. Their lighter-shaped dispensers were introduced in 1949 as the inventor, Edward Haas III, wanted people to eat candy as an alternative to smoking.

• Weather in Vienna

Vienna’s climate is generally moderate, although the city can experience heavy snowfalls and low temperatures from December to March, as well as occasionally high temperatures in July and August. Spring (March to May) is the best time to visit Vienna as temperatures are reasonable and classical music events like the Vienna Spring Festival are in full swing. It also a great time to take advantage of the many walks and hikes through the Vienna Woods or local conservation areas. Summer (June to August) is comfortable with an average daily temperature of 20°C (68°F), although heavy thundershowers are likely. Though busy with tourists, many locals will decamp to summer residences to escape the heat. Autumn (September to November) has fresh and mild days. It also receives less rainfall than in summer. Less touristy and once again busy with locals, it’s often the best time of year to visit Vienna’s many top tourist attractions. Winter (December to February) is relatively dry and cold, though it’s also the best time to savour the elegance of Vienna amidst soft falling snow. It is also when Vienna’s amazing Christmas markets come to life. Vienna’s Christmas market on Rathausplatz is one of the best, with 150 sales booths coming to life under twinkling lights.

Things to see in Vienna

Attractions

• Belvedere Palace

The Oberes Belvedere (Upper Belvedere Palace), built from 1721-23 for Prince Eugene of Savoy, offers terrific views across the gardens to the Unteres Belvedere (Lower Belvedere) and the city beyond. Artwork from the Middle Ages and the baroque era are featured in the Unteres Belvedere. The Oberes Belvedere houses art from the 19th-century classical, Romantic and Biedermeier periods on the second floor and post-1918 art on the ground floor. Highlights include paintings by Gustav Klimt (including the iconic The Kiss), Egon Schiele, Oskar Kokoschka and other fin-de-siècle artists. Address: Central, Prinz Eugenstrasse 27, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 795 570 Opening times: Daily 09:00-18:00. Website: www.belvedere.at Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Hofburg

The Imperial Palace until 1918, the Hofburg today houses the office of the Austrian president, an international conference centre, several museums, the chapel where the Vienna Boys’ Choir sing and the hall in which the Lipizzan stallions perform. Visitors can tour the Kaiserappartements (Imperial Apartments), including Franz Joseph’s and Sisi’s (Empress Elisabeth’s) private rooms, the great audience hall, dining rooms and staterooms. Schatzkammer (Treasury), at Schweizerhof, contains stunning exhibits that exemplify the power and wealth of one of Europe’s most important empires. The Sisi Museum showcases many personal objects and some of the most famous portraits of the beautiful empress. Also within the central core, the Prunksaal (State Hall) of the Nationalbibliothek (Austrian National Library) is a jewel of baroque architecture and one of the most beautiful historical libraries in the world. Address: Kaisertor, Michaelerkuppel, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 533 7570 Opening times: Daily 08:00-18:00. Website: www.hofburg-wien.at Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Schloß Schönbrunn (Schönbrunn Palace)

Schönbrunn Palace is Vienna’s answer to Versailles and was used as the summer residence of the Habsburgs from the 18th century until 1918. Of the 1,441 rooms in the palace and its adjacent buildings, 45 state rooms are open to the public. The golden-yellow palace is set within equally magnificent gardens, landscaped in the baroque style, with some fabulous views. The palace and gardens are included in the UNESCO World Heritage Site list. The Gloriette is a triumphal arch that stands on the hilltop behind the palace and affords a stunning view over the grounds and the city beyond. The Palmenhaus (Palm House) is an excellent example of late 19th-century architecture, with cast-iron columns delicately holding up the glass walls and roof. The world’s oldest zoo (from 1752) can be found in the park too. Address: Central, Schönbrunn Palace, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 811 130 Opening times: Daily 08:30-17:30. Website: www.schoenbrunn.at Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: Yes

• Stephansdom (St Stephen’s Cathedral)

The imposing St Stephen’s Cathedral marks Graben’s eastern end and is known for its brightly coloured roof tiles. Inside, though, it’s a genuine masterpiece of baroque design with wonderful altars and vast ceilings. Construction began on the cathedral in the 12th century and was completed in 1433. Major restoration and rebuilding work was necessary after the cathedral caught fire at the end of WWII. The Square outside the Cathedral is a popular meeting place too, and it often throngs with people. Address: Central, Stephansplatz 3, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 515 523 530 Opening times: Mon-Sat 06:00-22:00. Sun and public holidays 07:00-22:00. Website: www.stephanskirche.at Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Prater

The Prater is a giant wooded park in Vienna’s 2nd district, most famous for its fairground and for being the location of one of Vienna’s most emblematic sights: the century-old Riesenrad (Ferris wheel). Made famous in the 1949 film The Third Man, the Ferris wheel was completed in 1897, at a time when other such rides stood in cities like London, Paris and Blackpool. This wheel, however, is one of the only ones to survive. Address: Prater, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 729 2000 Opening times: Daily 11:00-23:00. Website: www.praterwien.com Admission Fees: No Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien (Museum of Fine Arts)

This magnificent building was constructed to house all the Imperial Habsburg collections in one place, although these grew to occupy the Hofburg and Schönbrunn Palace too. The grand staircase provides passage to the galleries, which include the Greek and Roman Antiquities, Egyptian-Oriental and Coin collections. The Kunstkammer (art chamber) houses sculpture and decorative arts. The Gemäldegalerie (picture gallery) has works by Old Masters, including Dürer, Raphael, Rembrandt, Rubens and Titian as well as the most comprehensive collection of Brueghels in the world. The twin building directly opposite holds the old fashioned, but superb Museum of Natural History. Address: Central, Maria-Theresien-Platz, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 525 240 Opening times: Daily 10:00-18:00. Website: www.khm.at Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• MuseumsQuartier

On the site of the former imperial stables, this large cultural complex (akin to London’s Southbank Centre) is one of the biggest of its kind in the world. Don’t miss the excellent Leopold Museum, a must for anyone interested in Austrian art, and MUMOK, the Museum of Modern Art. The Museums Quartier (MQ) is a very pleasant place to hang out for a few hours, especially on a summer evening, when the place is packed with students and people of all ages relaxing outside on its large bench-like constructions or eating and drinking in one of the many alfresco cafés. Address: Central, Museumplatz 1/5, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 523 5881 Opening times: Varies. Website: www.mqw.at Admission Fees: Varies Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Spanische Hofreitschule (Spanish Riding School)

For over 400 years, the horses of the Spanish Riding School have performed their elegant manoeuvres at the Imperial Stables. The easiest way for visitors to see the horses in action is at their morning training sessions, which take place from 1000-1200 Tuesday to Friday. Tickets to the training sessions, which involve classical dressage exercise to music, are only available at the Visitor Centre on the day. During the main season, these can also be found at the Box Office at Josefsplatz. Tickets for the actual performances are in high demand and need to be booked well in advance. The season generally runs from March to June and from September to December. Gala performances vary from month to month, usually Saturday or Sunday mornings and occasionally Friday evenings. Final dress rehearsals before the season starts are cheaper, and tickets are available on a first-come-first-served basis. Address: Central, Michaelerplatz 1, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 533 9031 Opening times: Daily 09:00-16:00. Website: www.srs.at Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• KunstHausWien (Vienna Art House)

KunstHausWien also known as Museum Hundertwasser is the unmistakable architectural expression of Friedensreich Hundertwasser’s unique vision. Appearing like a Klimt painting seen through a kaleidoscope, the building contains an exhibition of Hundertwasser’s artwork as well as a bright café with chic clientele and a relaxing garden. Art is a central motif of Viennese life, and this is the place to come if you want to understand why art and Vienna are so inexplicably linked. The nearby Hundertwasserhaus is an apartment project, which can only be viewed from the street. Address: Central, Untere Weißgerberstraße 13, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 712 04 91 Opening times: Daily 10:00-18:00. Website: www.kunsthauswien.com Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

• Albertina

The largest Habsburg residential palace, Albertina dominates the southern tip of the Imperial Palace on one of the last remaining fortress walls in Austria. It boasts the leading and most valuable graphical collections in the world, with works such as Dürer’s Hare and Klimt’s studies of women. On permanent display in the Albertina’s new exhibition collection are the most exciting art movements of the last 130 years: French impressionism, German expressionism and Russian avantgarde make up some of the most impressive bodies of work. Picasso and Monet also make an appearance, with Monet’s Water Lily Pond enchanting all who visit. Degas’s Dancers and Renoir’s Girl are also on view, alongside paintings by Macke, Cézanne, Chagall, Rothko, Rainer and Katz. Address: Central, Albertinaplatz 1, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 534 830 Opening times: Daily 10:00-18:00. Website: www.albertina.at Admission Fees: Yes Disabled Access: Yes UNESCO: No

Tourist Offices

• Wien Tourismus

Address: Central, Albertinaplatz , Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 24555 Opening times: Daily 09:00-18:00. Website: www.wien.info Vienna’s main tourist office should be the first stop for visitors. They can help with a hotel booking, maps, sightseeing information and advice on where to eat.

Tourist passes

The Vienna City Card offers discounts at more than 210 attractions, theatres, shops, cafés and restaurants, as well as unlimited travel on the U-Bahn, bus and tram networks (including night buses) for 24, 48 or 72 hours. One child up to the age of 15 travels free with each Vienna City Card holder. Passes are available from tourist information office on Albertinaplatz, hotels and Wiener Linien sales and information counters. You may also turn your Vienna City Card into the Vienna City Card TRANSFER or Vienna City Card TOUR. Vienna City Card TRANSFER: Vienna City Card with the additional bonus of having transfer on all modes of transport to and from Vienna Airport. Vienna City Card with an option for a 24-hour hop-on-hop-off with Big Bus Tours Vienna and a guided city walk. For more information:  Go to  ( Website:  www.viennacitycard.at )

Things to do in Vienna

• Discover the hidden crypt of the Vergilius Chapel

Why there’s a church room below Vienna’s streets remains a mystery, but the incredibly well preserved, subterranean chapel of St. Virgil shouldn’t be missed. Dating from around 1250, the chapel was only discovered when contractors were digging for the Metro in 1973. With gothic interiors and an interesting exhibition documenting the history of Medieval Vienna, many will find themselves lost in the city’s fascinating past. Visit the: Museum  (  Website: www.wienmuseum.at  ) for tours.

• Marvel at the beautiful Secession Gallery

The Secession Gallery Telephone: +43 1587 5307 Website: www.secession.at  near Karlsplatz is surely one of the world’s most beautiful art space. Designed by Joseph Maria Olbrich in 1897/98, it is a fine example of Art Nouveau architecture, boasting white walls and golden adornment that remain stylish to this day. Highlights include Klimt’s Beethoven Frieze and changing exhibitions throughout the year.

• Spot fish living in a WWII bunker at Haus Des Meeres

There’s something fishy about the Vienna Haus Des Meeres  Telephone: +43 1 587 1417 Website: www.haus-des-meeres.at And it’s not the thousands of different species of marine life on show. In a public park, this aquarium was a former World War II flak tower used to try and shoot down RAF bombers.

• Visit another country without leaving the city at the UN Complex

The United Nations complex Telephone: +43 1 26060 Website: www.unvienna.org  in Vienna exercises extraterritoriality, which means it’s international territory. Several UN agencies allow fascinating hour-long tours of their offices and give visitors the chance to see exhibitions about the UN’s work, enjoy artworks at the Vienna Visitor Centre, see a real moonrock and experience 1970s architecture.

• Visit the strange Church of the Most Holy Trinity

In rolling woodland outside Vienna lies the Church of the: Most Holy Trinity ( Website: www.georgenberg.at )  A  place of worship that looks like a giant stack of Jenga blocks. Opened in 1976, the so-called Wotruba Church is a brutalist masterpiece designed by the artist Fritz Wotrub.

Vienna tours and excursions

Vienna tours

• Walking tours

Vienna Walks   Telephone: +43 1 774 8901 Website: www.viennawalks.com offers tours, ranging from ‘The Third man- in the Footsteps of a Film Classic’, which scouts out the locations of the famous film, to tours of the homes of Mozart, Beethoven and Schubert. Other tours focus on a historical period, Jewish life in Vienna, or the underground city of crypts and wine cellars. Vienna With Love Telephone: +43 699 8173 2635 Website: www.verliebtinwien.at  also offers walks in English, including Art Nouveau architecture, Medieval quarters and hidden courtyards, or the Imperial Palace. Tours are between 90 minutes and two hours, and there is a minimum of three walkers per group, although individual tours can be pre-arranged.

• Bus tours

Vienna Sightseeing Tours Telephone: +43 1 712 46 83 Website: www.viennasightseeing.at offers a three- hour ‘Historical City Tour’, which includes a visit to Schönbrunn Palace. The Hop On Hop Off bus tours cover all of Vienna’s most popular sights, including the State Opera, St. Stephen’s Cathedral and Hofburg Palace. They come with audio guides in 16 languages.

• Boat tours

The DDSG Blue Danube Schiffahrt GmbH offers several cruises on the River Danube. Most are available only from midApril to mid-ctober, but The Danube Round Trip is available year-round. There are two routes, the ‘green Vienna’ route, departing from Schedenplatz and the ‘modern Vienna’ route departing from Reichsbrücke. There is also an evening sightseeing round trip from: Schwedenplatz Telephone: +431 58880 Website: www.ddsg-blue-danube.at  it runs from June-early October. Each tour lasts 70 to 100 minutes.

• Other tours

Pedal Power Telephone: +43 1 729 7234 Website: www.pedalpower.at provides three to four-hour bicycle tours departing from in front of the Vienna Opera, twice daily from May to September. Sights include KunstHausWien, St Stephen’s Cathedral and the Risengrad (Ferris Wheel). The Vienna Ring Tram Telephone: +43 1 712 46 83 Website: www.viennasightseeing.at  is a sightseeing tour on a classic yellow tram. The round trip takes 25 minutes. A romantic, albeit expensive way for visitors to see the city, is by a traditional Fiaker (horse-drawn carriage). These are available for hire at Stephansplatz, Petersplatz, Albertinaplatz and Burgtheater/ Volksgarten. The prices and lengths of the ride must be negotiated in advance.

Vienna excursions

• Melk

Founded in 831 and situated on the north bank of the River Danube, approximately halfway between Vienna and Linz, lies Melk, an attractive town with a stunning baroque abbey. As well as being one of the oldest settlements in Austria, it also offers a stunning variety of architectural styles, ranging from gothic facades to the Art Nouveau. Benedictine Melk Abbey sits atop an escarpment, commanding a large stretch of the river valley. It is a physical testament to the power and authority of both the Babenbergs, who built it over 1,000 years ago, and the Benedictine monks, who have occupied it since 1089. It contains a museum, a restaurant and a park and garden pavilion. Even those who do not have time to visit the abbey cannot fail to miss it as they approach Vienna by rail or road from the west.

• Wachau Valley

Between Krems an der Donau and Melk, the River Danube winds through one of the most beautiful areas of Austria. A variety of outdoor activities are available on this stretch, including watersports, hiking, cycling, boat cruises and wine-tasting tours. The Danube Bike Path follows the river on both banks. There are bike hire points in most villages along the valley, including Spitz, where bicycles can be rented direct from the train station. Trains to Melk, Pöcham and Ybbs depart from Westbahnhof, while trains to Krems and Spitz depart from Franz Josef Bahnhof. Telephone: +43 271 3300 6060 Website: www.wachau.at

• Krems an der Donau

Along the River Danube, to the west of Vienna, lies Krems, a pretty, 1,000-year-old town surrounded by vineyards. Don’t miss the ancient buildings on Landstraße, including the 16th-century town hall. Above Landstrasse, narrow streets and small squares show the structure of the original town. Both the Piaristenkirche and the Museum Krems celebrate the work of medieval artist Johann Martin Schmidt. The 15th-century Steiner Tor gateway marks the end of Stein. At the other end of Landstraße, is the town’s Kunst Halle Krems, a major arts venue. Trains leave Vienna Franz Josef Bahnhof for Krems every hour (journey time – 1 hour 15 minutes). Telephone: +43 2732 82676 Website: www.krems.info

Shopping in Vienna

Wealthy Vienna drips in shops, from city centre multiples to bespoke designer boutiques. The Austrian capital is mainly free of modern malls – instead wide and beautiful pedestrianised streets are home to rows of stores that are a pleasure to browse in.

• Key areas

 The most interesting shopping locale in Vienna is the inner city, with its narrow streets and elegant facades. The large pedestrian zones along Kärntner Straße and Graben meet at the strikingly modern Haas Haus, which is full of exclusive shops whose mirrored facade seems to mock St Stephen’s Cathedral, standing opposite. The traditional shopping street of the Viennese is Mariahilfer Straße, between the Sixth and Seventh Districts. This street is home to major international stores selling clothing, music and other familiar commodities. Schliefmühlegasse, adjacent to the Naschmarkt, is fast becoming one of the city’s trendiest and most individual shopping streets, including shops devoted to Austrian champagne and recycled art, plus several interesting little bars and cafés.

• Markets

 Among the many markets in the city, the most popular is Naschmarkt. Home to over 120 stalls, this colourful attraction holds an array of fruit and vegetable stands, shops and eateries, located between the Linke and Rechte Wienzeile Streets, near Karlsplatz. The market is open Monday to Saturday. The Flohmarkt (Flea Market), at the far end of the Naschmarkt, comes alive on Saturday mornings, with some incredible bargains in second-hand clothes and goods, as well as more unusual items. During the festive season, the most popular Christmas and Advent market is the Christkindlmarkt, which is held in front of the Rathaus overlooking the Ringstrasse.

• Shopping centres

The Ringstrassen-Galerien Address: Kärtner Ring 5-7. Telephone: +43 1 512 5181  offers the convenience of a shopping centre, a short walk from the Staatsoper. One of Vienna’s main shopping streets, Mariahilfer Straße, in the Seventh District, is home to another department store. Gerngross      ( Website: www.gerngross.at  ) The Wien Mitte Mall  Address: Landstraßer Hauptstraße 1B, Wien. Telephone: +43 1 890 7251 Website: www.wienmitte-themall.at  is the largest and most modern shopping centre in Vienna.

•  Opening hours

Shops are generally open Monday to Friday 09:00-18:30 and Saturday 09:00-17:00/18;00. Some shopping centres are open until 20:00/21:00 on weekdays.

• Souvenirs

Forget cheesy souvenirs, Vienna is the place to come and really pick up pieces of quality craft and design. The MAK Design Shop, at Stubenring 5, is one of the best places to find high-quality examples of artisan design, from glasses and furniture to posters and sculpture. As the home of the Wiener Werkstätte (a group of visual artists who produced fine prints, wallpapers and cutlery 100 years ago), the shop also sells similar handcrafted design and hipster one-offs. Find fine examples of handcrafted Augarten Viennese porcelain at the Porcelain Museum store, at Obere Augartenstraße 1, where you can also take a behind the scenes factory tour. Other souvenirs include Viennese wine, snow globes (which were invented in Vienna) and Mozartkugel – a sweet treat of nougat, pistachio and marzipan.

• Tax information

VAT can be reclaimed by visitors from outside the EU, on goods with a value exceeding €75. To make a claim, the taxcheque must be filled in at the time of purchase. The rebate can be up to 15% of the purchase price. 

Restaurants in Vienna

To eat in Vienna is to understand the great Imperial city. This was a place where people came from all corners of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which is why today you choose from an array of Hungarian goulash, Turkish kebabs and Croatian fish dishes. Traditional Austrian food is coming back after a long period out of fashion. Top restaurants are once again proud to dish up schnitzel – that deep-fried slice of veal with a lemon on top. Bars serving tapas and small plates are popular in modern eateries, but it is, of course, the ubiquitous café that will always dish up the finest cakes with a coffee. There are lots of French and Italian restaurants offering refined dining, while Imbiss stands everywhere offer you sausage and a bottle of Gosser lager as a snack. The Vienna restaurants below have been hand-picked by our guide author and are grouped into three pricing categories: Expensive (over €60) Moderate (€20 to €60) Cheap (under €20) These prices are for an average three-course meal for one person and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent. They include VAT but not service charge or tip. More expensive restaurants automatically add a service charge of around 10% to the bill, otherwise, a tip is usually required – usually 5 to 10%.

Expensive

• Guesthouse Brasserie

Cuisine: Modern Austrian Currently the talk of Vienna’s dinner tables, Guesthouse Brasserie has bagged Markus Leitner as chef and was fitted out by Terence Conran, who is also responsible for the attached hotel. But what kind of hotel and brasserie it is? Modern and minimal with retro touches. Classy, high-end food may come out of the kitchen, but this eatery is still welcoming and warm, not least thanks to the bread baking ovens firing up all day to warm fresh pretzels. Address: Central, Führichgasse 10, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 512 1320 Website: www.theguesthouse.at

• Salonplafond at the MAK

Cuisine: Modern Austrian Attached to the Museum of Modern Art (MAK) is Salonplafond. Formerly the Österreicher im MAK, Salonplafond is a modern take on the traditional Viennese tavern. It features a hidden patio garden with an outdoor bar and serves fresh seasonal and regional food. Address: Central, Stubenring 5, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 226 0046 Website: www.salonplafond.wien

• Skopik & Lohn

Cuisine: Modern Austrian, American Tasteful and refined, Skopik & Lohn caters to the rich and the stylish traveller who wants the very best from their Vienna experience. The cooking is elegant and playful, with a few traditional Austrian favourites thrown into their 1920s NYCesque cuisine (think schnitzel with fresh salads and foams). Décor is dramatic and modern, with chaotic black paint splashed up the ceiling. The wine list is extensive, and deserts are varied and exotic. Address: Central, Leopoldsgasse 17, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 219 8977 Website: www.skopikundlohn.at

Moderate

• Bodega Marqués

Cuisine: Spanish With simple Spanish ambience and a sweet pavement seating area, this restaurant serves up some seriously good vibes and even better tapas. The menu features many excellent small dishes, such as fried fish fritters with aioli, fried garlic and chilli shrimp and spicy Spanish sausage in a red wine sauce. Reservations recommended. Address: Central, Parisergasse 1, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 533 9170 Website: www.bodegamarques.at

• THELL-Motto

Cuisine: Austrian, Asian, Mediterranean Situated down by the Donau Canal, you’ll find customers from every walk of life in Motto, from TV stars to office workers. Top-quality staff, modern cellar surroundings and live DJs make up a relaxed but convivial atmosphere, but it’s the Austrian, Asian and Mediterranean menu that keeps this place full. Brunch here is also lovely, offering everything from sweet options (waffles, French toast and granola) to baked sweet potatoes and a particularly unusual dish of egg and pineapple on toast. Evening dining reservations recommended. Address: Central, Schönbrunner Straße 30, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 587 0672 Website: www.motto.at

• Ubl

Cuisine: Austrian Of the many Beisl (traditional beer taverns) that dot Vienna, Ubl ranks among the finest. Though retaining the dark-wood wall and floor panellings reminiscent of such establishments, it also has a refined, dining atmosphere with a good list of quality Austrian wines. Order from a small but well-thought-out menu filled with Viennese classics; though it’s hard to go wrong with the Tafelspitz (boiled beef in a broth, served with horseradish) or Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal). It has a lovely garden for summer. Address: Central, Preßgasse 26, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 587 6437

Cheap

• Wrenkh

Cuisine: Vegetarian Veggies may struggle in a city full of schnitzel and pork, but this doesn’t have to dampen your spirits. Wrenkh, Vienna’s top vegetarian restaurant and (designer) bar, serves excellent seasonal food to a young and trendy crowd. Expect dishes such as asparagus cream soup, Greek rice-shaped pasta, mushroom ‘Schnitzel’ and Chia-pudding. They also serve a few excellent fish and meat options. If you enjoy the food enough, Wrenkh even does evening cookery classes teaching the art of their unusual cuisine. Address: Central, Bauernmarkt 10, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 533 1526 Website: www.wrenkh-wien.at

• Zawodsky

Cuisine: Traditional Austrian Within the green and vineyard-cloaked district of Grinzing, in the northern stretches of Vienna, is Zawodsky – a lovely traditional Heuriger (wine tavern). It boasts a charming and pretty garden, full of apple trees and picnic tables. Summer is the best time to visit, as the foliage will offer ample shade from the sunny sky. A cosy evening, however, in autumn or spring, is also lovely, with indoor tables offering a welcome perch from the chill. The tart wine served is best mixed with soda water (a common practice at a Heuriger), while the hearty buffet, which offers fresh spreads, breads, salads and roast meats, requires more than one visit. There’s occasional live music. Address: Grinzing, Reinischgasse 3, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 3207 9782 Website: www.zawodsky.at

• Hausbar

Cuisine: Traditional Fine-dining meets extraordinary cocktail creations at Hausbar, situated next to famous Karlsplatz. From Thursday to Saturday, this spot serves up a seven-course menu with a mix of contemporary international cuisine and traditional Austrian influences (vegetarian on request). There’s a particularly lovely atmosphere in summer when the garden in the inner courtyard is open. Reservations are required. Address: Karlsplatz 5, Vienna. Telephone: +43 6508 44 8240 Website: www.hausbar-wien.at

Vienna Nightlife

The most popular cluster of bars is in the old Jewish Quarter (First District), in an area around St. Rupert’s Church known as the Bermuda Dreieck (Bermuda Triangle).Other districts with fewer tourists include the Spittelberg area, around Amerlinghaus (Seventh District) and in the Fourth District, adjacent to the Naschmarkt. An up and coming party scene can be found on The Gürtel, an outer-city ring road, straddled by subway arches. Under this subway are some of the best bars and clubs in the city, offering a dizzying array of live music, DJs and dancing. Many of the best places in Vienna will not be obvious to tourists, as they are strictly marketed at locals and are not necessarily in the centre of town. Quite a few clubs operate picky door policies, where the beautiful or the correctly dressed waltz past the queue. Alternatives to the club and bar scene abound – hip and trendy Viennese still enjoy traditional favourites, such as Heurigen (wine taverns) and the city’s many balls. For information on what kind of sound and crowd to expect on any given night of the week, pick up

• Falter listings paper    ( Website: www.falter.at )
• Szene                     ( Website: www.szenewien.com )

Tickets to cultural events are available from all major concert venues and theatres. Bookings can also be made at:

• Bundestheaterkassen

Address: Ooerngasse 2, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 5144 47880 Website: www.bundestheater.at For cultural listings, check out monthly events posted on  ( Website: www.events.wien.info ).

Bars in Vienna

• Amerlingbeisl

The Spittelberg area (Seventh District) is dotted with bars, including the perennially popular Amerlingbeisl, with its leafy garden. This relaxed pub is a must-go in Vienna, especially around Christmas, when Spittelberg comes alive with its famous Christmas market. The cobbled courtyard is a charming little place for a nightcap in one of Vienna’s nicest streets. Address: Spittelberg, Stiftgasse 8, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 526 1660 Website: ww.amerlingbeisl.at

• Café Central

Coffee houses (Kaffeehäuser) are an essential part of Viennese life. For the price of a coffee, many Viennese have sat for hours with the papers, some work, a book, or just watching the world go by – it’s a tradition that continues today. Café Central, located in the beautiful historic Palais Ferstel in the First District, is an old favourite of Sigmund Freud and Peter Altenberg, featuring gothic-style ceilings and smart waiting staff. Address: Central, Herrengasse 14, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 5333 763 Website: www.cafecentral.wien

• Café Stein

Coffee houses are big in Vienna and attract a young, trendy crowd. Café Stein is the king of the new style, with minimalist décor, Internet facilities, veggie fare and all-day breakfasts. It’s got a lovely position overlooking Sigmund Freud Park – grab a seat by the window and wonder at how the father of psychology used to sit in Viennese coffee houses pondering the human mind. Not a bad place to do it, is it? Address: Central, Währingerstraße 6-8, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 319 7241 Website: www.cafestein.at

• Miranda Bar

A symphony in pastel pink, marble and decorative pineapples, this place is a ’grammer’s dream come true. But Miranda has style and substance – step this way for a night of expertly mixed drinks. These are seriously classy, creative cocktails, but they won’t break the bank. We love the Italian aperitivo-inspired Signora Dolce (gin, suze, amaretto, strega and orange bitters) and the Petit Déjeuner À Montpellier (thyme-infused gin, mirtillo, walnut bitters, lime juice and ginger syrup). Address: Esterházygasse 12, Wien. Telephone: +43 1 952 8794 Website: www.mirandabar.com

Clubs in Vienna

• Club U

Some newcomer DJs are playing techno and you really enjoy dancing to it. The atmosphere is open, queer and full of good vibes. The dance floor is big enough. Because of so many nice people around you feel comfortable. Address: Karlsplatz, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 505 9904 Website: www.club-u.at

• Flucc

If you don’t believe that Vienna is rapidly becoming the new Berlin, heading to Fluc will go some way to changing your mind. This ultra-hip, ultra-scuzzy bar is a tale of two venues: a ground floor café-bar in a former pavilion on the Prater Roundabout, plus an incredibly cool live music venue in the actual former pedestrian underpass beneath the roundabout’s four traffic lanes. Located on Praterstern, the concrete walls keep the party going long into the night. Address: Prater, Praterstern 5, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 218 2824 Website: www.flucc.at

• Pratersauna

In just a few short years, Pratersauna has evolved into Vienna’s most significant club – and it’s not hard to see why. A former sauna, this stylish and vibey venue is reached by an invigorating nocturnal walk through the woods of the Prater Park. The swimming pool remains, and revellers can jump in if they want; it’s even famed for its pool parties in the summer. The main room is like an art gallery – minimal, chic and white-walled. The world’s hippest DJs stop off here, and it’s one of the main venues for the city’s annual Waves Festival in October. Address: Prater, Waldsteingartenstraße 135, Vienna. Telephone: +43 664 250 2022 Website: www.pratersauna.tv

Live music in Vienna

• Flex

They say Flex has one of the best sound systems of any music venue in Europe, and who are we to argue? It certainly delivers a breath-taking sound when you see live bands here – and indeed a huge range of acts have hit its stage since it opened in 1990. Its location is also perfect for a cute stroll along the Donau Canal, where you can spot boats floating upstream as you make your way to and from the venue. Address: Central, Augartenbrücke 1, Vienna. Contact: thomas@flex.at Website: www.flex.at

• Jazzland

Harking back from 1972, Jazzland is Vienna’s oldest jazz cellar. The place is tiny and cosy, with unpretentious décor and friendly staff, but the best part is the music. Bands play traditional Jazz, blues, boogie, swing, folk and sometimes modern Jazz. The most delightful thing about Jazzland is probably the venue itself – a barrel-vaulted brick cellar that oozes atmosphere. The food and drinks are also renowned here, with traditional Viennese cuisine on offer. Address: Central, Franz-Josefs-Kai 29, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 533 2575 Website: www.jazzland.at

• Porgy & Bess

Porgy & Bess is Vienna’s best jazz club. A converted porn cinema, it is located near the Stubentor U-Bahn stop. Its ambitious program of first-class concerts from Austrian and international musicians is second to none, and many will be surprised at its multifaceted and unusual musical interactions. The venue was opened in 1993, but it pays tribute to a rich jazz heritage that has mellowed and flourished in Vienna for decades. Regulars love its smoky aesthetic, which fits the club perfectly. Address: Central, Riemengasse 11, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 503 7009 Website: www.porgy.at

Classical music in Vienna

• Musikverein

The Musikverein is Vienna’s centre for classical music. The Vienna Boys’ Choir is a Viennese institution, having been formed as the Boys’ Choir of the Royal Court in 1498. Together with members of the chorus and orchestra of the Vienna State Opera, they form the Hofmusikkapelle, which performs at Mass in the Chapel of the Imperial Palace throughout the year. The Vienna Boys’ Choir also performs in the Brahms-Saal (Brahms Hall), the venue for chamber music in the Musikverein, and at the Volksoper (People’s Opera), a smaller venue that stages opera, operettas, ballets and musicals. The renowned Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra and the Vienna Symphonic Orchestra also perform here. Address: Central, Musikvereinsplatz 1, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 505 8190 Website: www.musikverein-wien.at

• Wiener Konzerthaus

Wiener Konzerthaus is where the Vienna Symphonic Orchestra mainly performs. The Konzerthaus is also home to the Wiener Singakademie choir and hosts touring international orchestras. This is a fine old concert house – possibly the greatest of the Imperial-era halls in all of Vienna and should not be missed on a trip to the city. The chance to hear a concert here just makes it even better as the music seems to bring the stones themselves back to life. Address: Central, Lothringerstraße 20, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 242 002 Website: www.konzerthaus.at

Theatres in Vienna

• Studio Brut

Brut is a cool theatre and events space in the wonderful Karlsplatz, with its ornate old art nouveau S-Bahn station. Brut hosts plays, experimental theatre, talks and events, and even live music concerts. If you are not seeing a show, stop by its hip little bar and have a drink in cultured company. The space itself is modern, minimal, and a joy to look at. Address: Central, Karlsplatz 25, Vienna. Telephone: +43 1 587 8774 Website: www.brut-wien.at

• Burgtheater

Theatre has a long and proud tradition in Vienna, where the patronage of the Imperial Court was an important factor in its development. There are multiple theatres in the city, but the Burgtheater (Palace Theatre) stands at the forefront and is an intense source of pride to the Viennese. This impressive edifice is the second oldest European theatre and the largest in the German-speaking world. Moved to the Ringstrasse in the 19th century, Burgtheater stages classical and contemporary works of the very highest standards of production. You will also find impressive examples of Klimt’s early work painted above the theatre’s grand staircase. Other important theatres in Vienna include the Volkstheater, the Theater in der Josefstadt and the Schauspielhaus. Address: Central, Universitätsring 2, Vienna. Telephone: +43 151 4444 545 Website: www.burgtheater.at

Vienna food And Drink

Food In Vienna

• The Wiener Schnitzel

The Wiener Schnitzel – a breaded and fried veal escalope,  very thin, breaded and pan fried cutlet made from veal, is one of the best known specialities of Viennese cuisine, and is one of the national dishes of Austria.

• Sachertorte (Sacher Cake)

The cake consists of a dense chocolate cake with a thin layer of apricot jam in between two halves, coated in dark chocolate icing on the top and sides. It is traditionally served with unsweetened whipped cream. In 1832, Prince Metternich asked his court kitchen to create a special. The Sachertorte was invented by Franz Sacher for Klemens von Metternich (Austrian foreign minister) in Vienna, Austria, on 9th July 1832. The original Sachertorte is copyrighted, and to date no distribution licence exists.

• Tafelspitz (boiled beef)

The meat for Tafelspitz is well-aged pieces of beef, a cut of beef from the bottom sirloin primal cut. This cut is typically known in the United States as the tri-tip. Austrian butchers gave almost every muscle of beef a separate name.

• Apfelstrudel (Apple Strudel)

This Apple Strudel recipe (Apfelstrudel in German) is easier than it seems and so much fun to make. And the resulting strudel is a delicious, festive dessert just like the ones you would get in Austria or Germany filled with sweet, spiced apples and raisins in a flaky crust that everyone will love!

• Kaiserschmarren

Kaiserschmarren is a light, caramelized pancake made from a sweet batter using flour, eggs, sugar, salt, and milk, fried in butter.

Drink In Vienna

When not drinking coffee or tap water (or wine), your average Viennese is perhaps consuming large quantities of beer. Only the Czechs drink more than the Austrians. The local city brewery is Ottakringer, whose industrial premises also host many events (including its own summer beer festival). It is broadly legal to drink in public places. Bear in mind, though, that there are significant exceptions. For example, it’s forbidden in stations and on public transport. In my experience, despite the legality, drinking in public outside of bars, pubs, restaurants, picnic sites etc. is frowned upon in Vienna.

• Almdudler

Almdudler is considered Austria’s national drink. Eastern Austria serves as the nation’s wine country producing notable wines like Riesling and Veltliner. Austria offers a variety of beers with breweries located around the country. Popular brands include Stiegl, Ottakringer and Egger Bier.

• Skiwasser or schiwasser 

Skiwasser or schiwasser is an alcohol-free soft drink, in the simplest and original version based on raspberry syrup, lemon juice and water. It has its origin in the winter sports resorts of Austrian Tyrol, as part of the beverage offer on ski huts or lodges. Typically, it has red-pink color.

• Beer

The whole world seems to assume that Austria is a land of wines. That the Austrians actually drink far more beer than wine can be confirmed not only by statistics, but a tour of the many beer establishments and beer gardens. Among those in the know, Vienna is famous as the origin of the Viennese lager beer.